http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=779 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:28 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:28 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. wow.. yup, I missed that... wow... seeing all them pickup conversions.. really makes me appreciate the original hump back design... Great music! Love it... -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387645&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 03:39 GMT Kind of hard to describe, but I'll try to explain how I'd go about it.. Two pieces of wood, one about a foot long, the other about 4 feet long. Open window, open door. Place the short piece of wood on the inside of the window opening at a ~45° agle, such that it crosses the window surround at the points where it is bent, on the top and on the back. Perhaps tape or wire it in place. Then, your long piece of wood is your lever, stick one end in the traingular opening inside the bent part of window opening.. then pry towards the corner of the window opening, against the short piece of wood in there. That way, you'll not be prying against any welds below.. only force will be on the section you want to bend back in place... I guess that's about how you're describing your solution anyhow... go for it. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387487&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:21 GMT looks cute to me... And cute is not what you want.. you want brute force.. I see that as being something that might work a few times, then get retired... No need for hydraulics in this operation in my opinion.. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387448&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:42 GMT if you pull your shifter boot off, you should see that the shift lever is held by 4 small bolts. There should be a reverse stop bar/plate that simply prevents the shifter from going that far over without the 'lift'.. that stop could be mis-adjusted, or bent, or just missing... but you'll be able to see when you get the shift boot off.. no need to remove the transmission as I recall. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387381&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:41 GMT if you're in the mood for crawling around.... Look for a hidden magnetic key box under the car.. never know. Maybe, like me, you'll find a dozen or so sledge hammers in there.. oh to find a dozen sledge hammers in the trunk of a parts car.. fun fun fun. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387378&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:37 GMT The Virgos are 6" wide.. ideal for a 195 cross section tire... and, personally, I'd like to go a tad taller.. especially for snow tires. That said, I'd think the 185/65 should be just fine, since you already have them -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387160&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:52 GMT Did you jack that wheel up from the body? If so, try doing so from the ball joint.. perhaps if the suspension is loaded, you'll better be able notice if it's bad... Sounds like maybe the shop is trying to get a little more money than just an alignments worth to me. If you can't find any play in that tie rod, take it to another shop and tell them what the other guys told you.. and if they find the same thing, have them show you. Adjust your wheel bearings before you do that. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387094&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 10:28 GMT yes... I do agree... or, rather, if it's drawing enough current to make the amp light glow, it should blow the fuse... but never know.. make sure it's got the right amperage fuse. In either event, first step is check voltage at battery.. if it all looks ok, turn on only the fan and see if voltage drops significantly -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386895&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:05 GMT start by checking battery voltage... should be ~12.5v with the car off, should be ~13.5-14v with engine running. Then turn on lights, heater, accessories.. voltage should not drop below 13v with stuff on. I doubt the radio is a problem, but it could be your heater fan is headed south and drawing more current than it's supposed to. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386889&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 13:47 GMT I expect it could be done, but I doubt it'll be bolt up... I know the adjuster mechanisms are different, to name on.. I doubt the tracks are in the same place. probably no easier than installing seats from just about any other car out there, and in my opinion, 140 seats really aren't ideal.. if in great shape, they are wonderful.. but most are pretty well worn out by now. If you got lucky and scored some good condition leather seats from a '71 142E... that'd be different.. those might be worth the effort. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386884&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 13:21 GMT I recently got 3 very good Blizzaks for US$50 from local craigslist, I spent another $90 for a new one that matched, plus mount/balance for the four. I was out the door for slightly over $200 for the 3 good used and one new... (which is to say, I paid 3x for that one new tire plus mount balance, as I did for the 3 used ones) Seems pricey to me... the size seems ok... find out what they are from.. what type of wheels the tires are on... Could be an ok deal.. but everything would have to be just right at that price... -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386816&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:30 GMT I think it's all about mainenance records when you get into that sort of mileage... a well maintained 300k mile car can be a better buy than 150k mile car that's never set tire in a repair shop... That said, in my opinion 200k +/- about 50k miles, is a pretty rough time.. it's a time when lots of little things start going.. heater fan (definitly check that, be sure there's no squeaks), fuel pumps, timing belt (should have had two by now, maybe ready for a third), clutch if it's a manual transmission... If it's well maintained, many of these things could have been done in the last 30k miles at 228k... if not, you could be in for $1000 or more in maintenance in pretty quick order. Which is not a bad thing...if it's straight and rust free. To cite some I've seen... I've seen a 550k mile car that looked new... granted, all highway. And our local Volvo mechanic had a really beat up loaner that was over 800k miles. ugly, but ran fine.. good enough to loan to customers. If there's an independent Volvo specialist, that would be the place to go for inspection.. Dealer might be ok, but it's quite possible none of the mechanics are old enough to have even seen a 240 in the shop, let alone be familiar with their specific quirks. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386666&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:09 GMT For that kind of money, a car with that sort of mileage had better be nearly perfect.. I'd definitely want to see all maintenance records, and have the car thoroughly checked out. Yes, these cars can do a half million miles, but they are not without issues. Most folks here know their cars well enough to repair or at least diagnose problems when they happen, or more importantly, diagnose and repair problems before they break completely. To be honest, if you have to pay a foreign car, or better.. Volvo specialist to do your work, you probably won't like a Volvo 240.. If you can do your own work.. they can be very inexpensive to maintain. At 5000 miles/year, this could be a fine car. Would I send young drivers who generally have zero mechanical sympathy out in a quarter million mile car? I guess it depends on the kids... but be ready for those "dad.. the Volvo won't start and I don't know what to do" calls late in the night... Get good snow tires all around, these are fine in snow. Keep in mind it's rear wheel drive. I prefer that, some folks don't. It is another thing that can get young drivers into trouble in adverse road conditions. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386648&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:55 GMT unobtanium sorry.. someone had to -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386610&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 05:16 GMT There was discussion on that subject here a while back: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1342106&show_all=1 Based on that, it appears you have a picture of the '73/'74 140/160 switch that would be in front of the wiper switch stalk... -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386608&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 05:12 GMT does it do this when the car is cold and/or warm? knowing that might help narrow it down... or at least rule out some things. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386606&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 05:04 GMT I'd agree on the no welding near wiring.. JB Weld is great.. if you think you can do that well, go for it. Another option is pop rivet or sheet metal screw a patch over the damaged portions.. Make sure to seal the patch from water... Or, a combination of both.. JB weld it, then JB weld a (galvanized or stainless steel) patch over the initial JB Weld repair, and before that JB Weld is fully cured, pop rivit or sheet metal screw it securely into place... In any event.. don't worry too much about it.. just make it so water can't get in there. I've got a rust hole under my drivers seat that's about 8" long, 3" wide, and wiring hangs out of it.. I've been meaning to do something about it for some time, but it hasn't posed a problem, so I keep forgetting.... Just this morning I was cutting through 8" of snow with that issue OK.. Out to fix that now... -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386529&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:57 GMT I had one that did that... figuring it was shot, I took it apart.. as I recall, there's an O-ring in there.. it's pretty delicate.. especially the 'getting it back together' part, and you'd need just the right O-ring... That said, I never did get mine back together, so I might have been completely wrong in my diagnosis of what the actual problem was.. but what the heck.. you can't use the one you got, so.. it's fun until you find a replacement... -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386337&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:38 GMT haha... well, maybe they invented the part as a roof hole plug, and and designed the B21 around it since the still had a few bins of them For instance, '60s Jaguar MK2 rear bumper mounts are the same part as early '50s XK120 motor mounts. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386265&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:43 GMT nice... looks quite well cared for... Appears the the drivers seat lumbar support is broken...? How's the wiring harness at the gray plug look? -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386226&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 14:51 GMT Geez.. y'alls are indeed picky... if you want a good winter 'salt car'.. I'd buy that thing in a heartbeat. I'm sure it'd be easy enough to fool the inspector on the trunk lid with a magnet, turn signals can't be too tough...Fair bit of work done, supposedly only 150k miles...? geez.. and it's a stick. Lotta car for $500. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386149&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 02:03 GMT Door and ignition keys were different... Someone will probably chime in with a key code... I hope your trunk and doors use the same keys.. that is to say, hope nobody has changed any locks. If you can get other 122 door keys, you might even find one that works. Old worn out locks, it's not uncommon that to have a 'wrong' key work... -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386016&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 15:09 GMT you've got a 300+ mile cruise range already.. isn't that enough? I'd say, from a safety standpoint, it's not a good idea. That said, how about just storing a gas can in there? Like Volvo offered in the old 140 days... -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385957&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 05:15 GMT I'm somewhat surprised your new mount didn't come with new nuts.. any locknuts should be replaced anyhow (not that I'm not guilty of re-using them), but if the threads are different, seems they should give you the appropriate nuts to go with the mount. Seems most mounts I've gotten in the past several years came with nuts. In any event, not a big deal... find hardware that fits. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385952&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 05:01 GMT I don't think I'd peel that rubber back to lube that bearing... unless I knew the bearing was dry/failing, and I needed to get a few more miles out of it. I don't like the idea of lubricant between the outside of the bearing, and the rubber surround. Maybe I'm just being paranoid though. In any event, that bearing isn't your problem.. if it goes away in neutral, it has to be something that stops spinning in neutral...the driveshaft does not. what about the clutch.. does it go away, in gear, when you push in the clutch pedal? In any event... it sounds minor... nothing you want to rebuild the transmission for at this point. Just turn the radio up. And.. check for a hole in the shifter boot.. that can make all the difference. -- -Matt I ♥ my ♂ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385925&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:45 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/