http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=7285 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:03 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:03 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Matt - got any pics? Are they street rod type 'block hugger' headers? Or do they exit at the rear similar to the stock 5.0L HO headers? If you have pics - email me direct at michael.yount@piedmontng.com. thanks - Michael -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1215110&rss=1 Sun, 9 Sep 2007 00:27 GMT Here's some shots of mine.....and I suppose you can click on the avatar (self imposed duh).... http://www.corral.net/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=716&cat=500&ppuser=30684 -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1079258&rss=1 Sun, 21 May 2006 15:06 GMT Can't ever seem to find what I've posted in the gallery -- no luck again searching. Email me at myount@senndelaney.com and I'll shoot you a few pics of mine. Not a 700, but it may provide you with ideas. -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1079245&rss=1 Sun, 21 May 2006 12:28 GMT Mine has had the stock clutch cable modded since it was new (82) - conversion to V8 power was done in 96 over 30k miles ago; King Cobra clutch installed 2000... -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1079121&rss=1 Sat, 20 May 2006 19:10 GMT Keep in mind -- without the traction to launch hard, the clutch isn't the weak link, the tires are... Nothing wrong with the clutch you're considering - the stang crowd uses them with good results. But you may not need that much clutch. -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1078635&rss=1 Fri, 19 May 2006 00:20 GMT Tony - the large 260 tach is a direct swap for the large 240 tach on the older model cars (80's) - not sure about the newer cars. You don't have to send it out to have it calibrated. Simply hook up a shop tach under the hood, and jumper the 260 tach so it's connected to the engine while out of the dash. At different rev points, you simply turn a small screw (potentiometer) on the back of the 260 tach to calibrate it to the V8. The 4 cyl. tachs have the same adjustable feature, but not enough range to deal with the V8. I bought my tach from someone on the boards who had a Bertone that they had swapped the V6 out for a turbo 4 -- they put a 4 cyl. tach in theirs, and sold me the 6 cylinder tach for a very reasonable fee. Looks completely factory, and with the car on the dyno -- when the DynoJet was showing 5300 rpm, I was showing 5400. Not too bad.... -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1077089&rss=1 Sun, 14 May 2006 00:03 GMT http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/volvo_engine_swaps.htm Several inline six swaps here - Volvo and Nissan powerplants into 200 and 900 bodies... -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1076890&rss=1 Sat, 13 May 2006 03:13 GMT Figured it out - removed window and rubber seal; discovered a small gap near the top of the fender and the B-pillar that was left when body shop replaced the rear quarter 5 years ago. Should have been sealed with body putty but wasn't. I did the deed with silicone and then tested it -- dry as bone no matter how hard I tried to get water in it. Yippee.... -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1075249&rss=1 Mon, 8 May 2006 03:31 GMT http://www.corral.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=30684 -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1075113&rss=1 Sun, 7 May 2006 20:35 GMT Thanks for the reply Don -- but read the post more carefully. Problem on mine isn't in the rocker panels -- it's in the bottom/inside of the rear fender under the window. If you had the rear inner panel off and were sitting in the back seat looking down inside the body panel underneath the rear window, that's where you'd see the water. Good news is I found the leak this afternoon. When they installed a rear fender (collision repair 5 years ago) they didn't seal the seam between the top/front of the fender and the bottom of the B-pillar. There was a small gap that was open -- and it was letting water run inside the rear fender. Anytime it sat in the rain, was driven in the rain or was washed - water was entering the fender. Hence the small rust spot as it finally found a way out. Good news it's repaired -- better news is I found and fixed the source of the problem. Best news will be if the body shop will refund some of the repair charge since it was there error installing the fender in the first place that caused the problem. We'll see... Thanks Don - Michael -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1075081&rss=1 Sun, 7 May 2006 18:50 GMT Same as others here - mine's got the Ford 5.0L motor in it -- HD's, IPD springs, poly everywhere, bars, and adjustable upper rear torque arms and Panhard. Works like a champ...no untoward noises, except there's a bit more rear end noise with the poly bushings in the upper torque arms. -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1074997&rss=1 Sun, 7 May 2006 14:15 GMT Any other 242 owners - I've got a problem with water entering the driver's side rear fender -- ultimately causing rust at the bottom where the fender attaches to above the rocker panel. Any ideas how/where the water might be getting in? Not a problem on the passenger side, and with a hose, we're not able to replicate the problem; but leave it out in a driving rain, and that cavity at the bottom behind the interior panel will almost fill up with water. One thing I notice is that this window doesn't 'latch' as tightly when the lever/cam is pulled shut. I'm wondering if there's a missing seal of some sort on the two 'ears' on the leading edge of the window that insert into the B pillar. -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1074995&rss=1 Sun, 7 May 2006 14:10 GMT Any other 242 owners - I've got a problem with water entering the driver's side rear fender -- ultimately causing rust at the bottom where the fender attaches to above the rocker panel. Any ideas how/where the water might be getting in? Not a problem on the passenger side, and with a hose, we're not able to replicate the problem; but leave it out in a driving rain, and that cavity at the bottom behind the interior panel will almost fill up with water. One thing I notice is that this window doesn't 'latch' as tightly when the lever/cam is pulled shut. I'm wondering if there's a missing seal of some sort on the two 'ears' on the leading edge of the window that insert into the B pillar. -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1074993&rss=1 Sun, 7 May 2006 14:08 GMT Ditto - if you want those cubes, stroke the 302-based motor up to the 347 combo; or spend the dollars for a Dart block, go with a 4.125" bore and a 3.5" crank (custom machining) and you can have a 374 cubic inch engine that looks just like a 260.... -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1074561&rss=1 Sat, 6 May 2006 00:40 GMT In that case, I'd look for a freshly totaled VW TDI engine and reconfigure it for north/south duty. It powers a 3200 lb. Jetta quite briskly and economically -- should work fine in the Vlavo, whether powered by diesel, bio-diesel, or fry-oil. Yes -- the stable of cars are all quite fun to drive -- my criteria. And they're all relatively economical. The ti routinely returns 39-41 mpg at a steady 70 mph. -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1072200&rss=1 Fri, 28 Apr 2006 02:34 GMT Well said 914....... Price is a function of the quality of the swap and the time it takes. You can have any 2 of the 3 -- if the quality is high and cost is low, it will take a long time to complete. If you do it quickly with high quality it's gonna cost you. And if you shoot for quickly and cheaply, quality is gonna suffer. There are cars out there with $3 grand in them, and cars with $15 grand in them. The only realistic estimates are those you pull together for your combination of parts. I've generally found that on big projects like this -- I do the best I can to estimate parts/time -- and then double the parts estimate, and triple the time estimate. EFI is liable to net you better mileage than a carb -- although if you really know what you're doing, carbed conversions can get decent mileage. With little stop and go traffic -- mine routinely gets 17-19 around town, and 24-26 on the highway - best 600 mile average (Interstate) is 26.8. The engine was built for low end and mid-range torque -- which works well for mileage. It's a mass air/efi 5.0L making about 290HP/340 lb-ft at the crank. However -- it's a V8. You get it in heavy stop and go, and it's gonna be lucky to get 15 mpg. I believe the SBF will be an easier fit -- but you ultimately have to pick the one you want. -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1072198&rss=1 Fri, 28 Apr 2006 02:26 GMT Ford's PowerStroke diesel (an International-built engine) backed by an Allison automatic weighs over 1200 lbs....I'm sure the GM V8's are similarly bulky. Beyond weight, physical size is gonna be a problem too. The 6 cylinder Cummins units in the Dodge's are probably a bit lighter -- but length/height is gonna be a problem, and they're still way too heavy -- all of them are WAY over your 650 lb. target. Not sure what you're trying to accomplish -- only thing I can figure is that it's for fuel mileage. Do some careful math (economic analysis) before setting off down this path -- the improvement you're liable to get I suspect isn't going to payback the cost to get it very quickly. And you'll be rewarded with worse performance. Wasn't the 700 offered with a diesel 6 cylinder, if not in the US then abroad? -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1070948&rss=1 Mon, 24 Apr 2006 10:51 GMT Didn't think it would happen (semi retirement for 5 years) but I've accepted a full time position and will be moving the Volvo to Charlotte. I broke down and bought a new car for the day to day commuting and business travel I'll need to do so I don't subject the Volvo to the commuter/parking lot war zone. Bought a 2006 WRX wagon -- boy am I having boosted fun! -- 82 242 5.0L; 97 318ti; 06 WRX wagon http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1070707&rss=1 Sun, 23 Apr 2006 18:32 GMT I could be wrong Greg, but I believe the rear end suspension on his 700 and your 200 are entirely different. You have parallel upper/lower control arms -- locating arms on the bottom; torque arms on the top. He has lower locating arms, and a single torque arm that mounts in the center of the rear axle near the bottom of it, and runs up a couple of feet to a mounting point offset a bit to the side of the driveshaft. I believe the bushings he's speaking of are for the lower control arms. If you want torque arm bushings for yours, you can buy two adjustable torque arms with poly bushings for about $125 from IPD. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1070298&rss=1 Sat, 22 Apr 2006 04:24 GMT I could be wrong Greg, but I believe the rear end suspension on his 700 and your 200 are entirely different. You have parallel upper/lower control arms -- locating arms on the bottom; torque arms on the top. He has lower locating arms, and a single torque arm that mounts in the center of the rear axle near the bottom of it, and runs up a few feet to a mounting point offset a bit to the side of the driveshaft. I believe the bushings he's speaking of are for his lower control arms which I think are different than yours. If you want torque arm bushings for yours, you can buy two adjustable torque arms with poly bushings for about $125 from IPD. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1070295&rss=1 Sat, 22 Apr 2006 04:21 GMT Coleburn's nailed it -- how is an intercooler gonna drop the air intake temp any lower than the temp of the air flowing across it? Why use the intercooler when you can simply pull AMBIENT TEMP air into the intake? Amazing what some people come up with... By the way - there is a good reason almost all cars come with intakes that pick up cold air (relative to hot underhood air) from behind the grill or from the fenderwell is because there is a power/efficiency gain to be had. About 1% increase/decrease in power for every 10F drop/rise in intake air temp. Just get the coldest air you can to the air filter -- with the least restriction for the air flow. And an intercooler qualifies as a pretty big restriction. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1068500&rss=1 Sun, 16 Apr 2006 02:30 GMT If you're going to convert to efi later and want the HO firing order (1-3-7-etc.) you'd be best off simply using a cam with that firing order to start with. That way when conversion time comes, it's simply a matter of a distributor change, and adding proper intake/injectors/ecu/etc. Go online to CarCraft magazine and search for their carbed/302/afr165 headed buildup. With a stock HO shortblock out of a fox body mustang, AFR165 aluminum heads, 1.7 roller rockers, stock HO cam and a dual-plane carbed intake they made slightly over 400 crank HP. Mild idle, great drivability, 9:1 compression. It's do-able. But I'd go efi in the first place -- much easier/cheaper than trying to switch it over later. I think for a V8 powered car you need fans capable of AT LEAST 2700-3000 cfm. And fitment is REALLY tight. I use a diesel rad (24X16) with a contemporary 3-row, 16 fin/inch copper core and a SPAL dual 11" fully shrouded fan. It fits the rad perfectly. The only way to control an electric is with this -- www.dccontrol.com. Don't even consider relays/temp switches. I used FRPP shorties - had the stainless units ceramic coated. What you'll have to modify/adjust you can't tell until you get the engine mocked up in the car. Every car/engine/motor mount set up is a bit different -- I had to dimple one tube for a bit of extra clearance around the steering shaft, and had to bend the pass. side header towards the block about 1/4" (heat and a hyd. press were involved) and cut the flange off and rotate it about 9 degrees to get clearance needed. You won't know til you try what yours will need. If it sits 1/4" closer on the driver's side you may have no interference on the pass. side, and a bigger problem with the steering shaft. And headers from different makers may interfere in different places. The beauty of a swap. Just try it - then fabricate. On the accessories - the efi serpentine setups out of Explorer/Mountaineers/Cougar/T'bird have the whole accessory package sitting closer to the engine by about 1.5". But it's not just the water pump -- it's the whole package. Furthermore - the components are located differently -- fox body has the p/s on the bottom and a/c on the top; it's the opposite on the shorter exp/t'bird set ups. So you'll have to make a choice -- and that will impact how you plump up the accessories. You can make the longer accessory set up work - but it's tight. Suspension - go to IPD. I have springs/Bilsteins/poly bushings everywhere/upper-lower strut bars/adj. Panhard and upper torque arms. You need the V6 front bar to clear. On the tranny - if you keep the stock Volvo rear end, and don't do body work to allow much bigger/stickier tires -- you won't need to upgrade when you boost it. You won't have enough traction to hurt the tranny - and even if you get the traction, the rear end will break before the tranny. If you're serious about hard launches/traction - you'll need to completely re-think the rear end/tire situation. A 245 section tire is about the biggest I've heard you can make fit -- and you have to be very creative to make those work. Good luck with it. If you'd like to see pics of mine - email me myount@senndelaney.com. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1068347&rss=1 Sat, 15 Apr 2006 11:38 GMT Email me at myount@senndelaney.com if you like to see a picture of how my brother's 940 turned out. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1067623&rss=1 Wed, 12 Apr 2006 23:04 GMT The description of the item seemed pretty clear what they're for (copied below for your convenience). Of course they sold long ago... "I finally realized that I'll never get around to doing that Volvo 240 V8 conversion, so I have no need for these bars. This is a combination of an ipd front 25 mm bar and a (Addco maybe?) 22 mm rear bar. Ipd also sells a set that is 25mm front 22mm rear, so even though the rear is not from ipd, it is the same size as the one ipd sells. This front bar is rare because it was designed for the Volvo 260 which used a V-6 motor. It just happens that this is the only ipd bar that will work with a Ford or Chevy V8 in a 240. Now this bar will also work in ANY 240, whether it has the B21, B23, B230 or V6 of course (Bertone). Aalso included are Poly front bushings. These bars are used, but in good shape as you can see. They are heavy, so I set the shipping/handling at $30. Thanks for looking-No Reserve!" I'd add -- anyone wanting to run duals all the way back will find that the IPD rear anti-sway bar has 'kick ups' on both sides allowing for running a pipe under the axle on BOTH sides of the axle housing. That Adco bar (if that's what the picture is) isn't configured that way. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1067483&rss=1 Wed, 12 Apr 2006 09:08 GMT I understand -- just trying to point out that traction under power in any of the lower gears (not just at start) with an open diff and a 205 tire of any compound is gonna be marginal. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/?id=1066815&rss=1 Mon, 10 Apr 2006 02:10 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/