http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=66 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 09:24 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 09:24 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Spook, Thanks for the Vadis info. Confirms what I discovered. I tried the old style hubs on the new style spindle. Pretty much nothing fits right. =p Most of the Early cars have been changed to a separate hub/rotor system. Volvo stopped selling the combo unit many years ago. I converted mine to separate hub/rotor when I changed to the jumbo rotors. Went to the PnP yesterday and got a set of new style hubs that seem to be in decent shape. Go figure - after 20 years of working on 700/900 cars there are still things I'm learning. thanks, simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384876&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 13:18 GMT John, Thanks for the thoughts! I tried the old style hubs on the new style spindle. Pretty much nothing fits right. =p Matches to what you say. Went to the PnP yesterday and got a set of new style hubs that seem to be in decent shape. Go figure - after 20 years of working on 700/900 cars there are still things I'm learning. -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384875&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 13:13 GMT I'm trying to understand the differences between the front hubs of 85-88 740s and 89-later 740/940s. The early spindles have a narrow end, a wide end, and a ~2" long taper in-between. The Later spindles have a narrow end and a wide end with a shoulder in-between. The hubs seem to be different. (different nut and shape of the hub around the nut) Does anybody know if these hubs are interchangeable? (ignore the tone wheel) Which spindle design is superior? Would have thought the taper was stronger, but maybe one is cast and one forged? Last question - anybody tried replacing the bearings in the later style hubs? I did it without any problems in the early style hubs. (found the PN on the race and ordered Timken replacements) Thanks for any thoughts! -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384614&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 02:29 GMT There may have been some debris in the system, though for various reasons, I've run about 2 gallons of brake fluid through the system in the last 3 months. Reverse flush didn't show anything but that doesn't mean I didn't have a chunk in there. AFter replacing the MC, adjusting the pin that presses the MC, and replacing the hardline between the MC and the distribution block, things seem to be working OK. I went through a couple of heat cycles on the brakes and don't seem to have any long term effects. The rear rotors are getting changed soon with my 8.8 rear end swap. I have a spare pair of front rotors that I can swap if needed. Thanks for the thoughts! -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358133&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 16:14 GMT The brake light on the 700 series is set off by a pressure imbalance. You can get the light without loosing any fluid. My calipers didn't have any problems. I pulled most of them apart and there was no issue. All had smooth bores with no corrosion. Slider pins were fine in the front. The MC was a rebuilt unit... the 3rd. The 4th one seems to be doing better now, along with an adjustment of the pin that pushes it. Seems to be working well. thanks, simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358131&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 16:09 GMT Well, I had 3 problems contributing to my brake woes. 1) My 3rd rebuilt MC was crap. The 4th one seems to be doing better 2) Because of all of the MC changes, my plunger pin was too far into the MC causing pressure, which is why my brakes locked 3) My hardline to the distribution block was not sealing very well, creating a small leak. Hopefully everything will work better now! -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358129&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 16:06 GMT Well, the good news is that you fixed the problem! =) Crazy how it only takes one bolt or nut to really make life impossible! -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358036&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 00:09 GMT Robert, I've always been frustrated trying to pull the transmission out from underneath the car. The bellhousing bolts are always a pain to get any torque on right next to the firewall. And, trying to wheel the transmission out from under the car while you are on your back and the car is on jackstands is a real 2 man job. The automatic transmissions are really heavy! As I have an engine hoist, I've always found my time much less frustrating by pulling out the engine and transmission together. Then I can work on the transmission easily once it is out of the car. The best analogy I can make is this: Pulling the transmission out from under a car is like driving through downtown during rush hour. You stop and start a lot and wonder if you are ever going to get there. Pulling the engine+transmission is like taking the long way around town on the freeway. It is 3x the distance but you are always driving and feel like you are making progress. You get to your destination ~ the same time so it becomes a personal choice. I have the tools/equipment to pull out an engine/tranny much easier than pulling out a tranny by itself. There are many more nuts and bolts by pulling out both. On the flip side, you would be amazed at all the leaks or other deteriorating things you will find when the engine is out. Other people may have much more luck or better tools (lift?) that help them pull an automatic transmission easier than I do. So I think it really is a personal choice. take care, simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357551&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 10:26 GMT This exact thing happened to my '94 945 (245k miles) about a year ago. Driving down the freeway I started hearing a "whine". It was engine speed sensitive and would come and go. Tried to diagnose it on the road with no luck. So, I just kept driving. (100 miles to get home) At about 15 miles to get home I heard a bang and the engine quit. Bracket must have been semi-broken and hanging there. Finally the vibrations got the better of it and the sensor dropped into the flywheel with a boom. I tried everything to reach the bracket, cut it out, reglue it, etc. After about 3 days of messing around with it I just pulled the engine and transmission. It was about 15 hours to get it all out, fixed, and back in. Though, I've done it a few times before on that car so I knew what I was getting into. On the plus side, when you have the engine/tranny out you can fix all of those annoying seals that you can't reach and have been dripping in your garage. =) -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357492&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 00:34 GMT Hello, I have an '85 745 with a front jumbo brake upgrade. Over the last month I've had a "weak" diagonal (LF, RR) and now the same diagonal was stuck this evening. About 3 months ago I had the rear calipers off while doing a rear axle swap. I accidentally pressed the brake pedal down without a rotor between the rear pads. Both calipers pressed tightly together. I pulled them back. Upon getting the rotors back on, my RR caliper would not compress and the brake light was on. (brakes worked fine before this) I removed the caliper and confirmed the piston and dust boot were functioning fine with no rust. I thought that the deep compression of the master cylinder screwed it up so I replaced it. Still no luck, so I rebuilt the distribution block/brake light switch. Things worked OK for a while. After about a month the LF/RR circuit started loosing brake power/pressure. It was intermittent at first (solid pedal, then soft at seemingly random times) but started getting worse. Then, I lost all power in that circuit and the brake light went on again. (rotors started to rust!) As my rebuild of the distribution block was suspect I purchased a new unit. Upon installation I still had no brake power in the LF/RR. I did notice that when I bled the brakes the LF/RR flow was very low compared to the RF/LR. I use a Motive pressure bleeder under 15psi max. So, I got a new master cylinder to rule out an internal leak. In addition I blew out/cleaned the hard lines traveling from the MC to the distribution block to confirm there was no blockage. Pressure bleeding was good with equal flow in all calipers. Solid pedal feel with no brake light. Two days later (today) the LF/RR calipers were both dragging enough to cause some shudder while driving. Hub temps on LF/RR were much hotter than RF/LR. So, new MC, new distribution block. Calipers are both good and slide pins (front) are functioning correctly. I have IPD SS brake lines on all 4 corners. They are ~7 years old with ~30k miles. Only other thing to add is that this is a V8, so there is an exhaust manifold right next to the MC and distribution block. Though, In 7 years of driving I've never seen an issue. Brake fluid is Valvoline Synthetic Dot 3/4. Any thoughts??? I'm going insane with this! thanks, simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357480&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 23:10 GMT Well, Discovered a couple of things. First, there are no dedicated rear proportioning valves in my car. I'm guessing the distribution block does this? Or perhaps just the differential piston/pad sizes? I took apart the distribution block with the warning switch. Simple little thing with a couple of springs, four O rings and some sliding metal. The dealership couldn't get new O rings and I didn't want to drop $90 on a new one. So, after cleaning it up, installing the O rings in different positions, and bleeding the system, I got pressure back to my RR caliper! Still not sure what problem could have happened in the distribution block, but cleaning it fixed it. thanks, simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1342719&rss=1 Thu, 9 Apr 2009 00:16 GMT Bill, Thanks for the response. Yeah, I purchased a rebuilt master cylinder yesterday, did a bench bleed, and then installed it. Unfortunately, per my original post, it had no effect. The only two components in the system that I haven't taken apart or replaced are the junction block just below the master cylinder and the proportioning valves for the rear wheels. take care, simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1342493&rss=1 Wed, 8 Apr 2009 01:03 GMT Hello Everybody! Hope you can help me! Over the weekend I put a new rear axle in my '85 745 V8. (yes, I blew up another rear end) In the process I managed to break my brakes. There was nothing about the change which should have caused me a problem. I used the calipers and rotors from the old axle. I didn't open the system or anything. My problem started when I was attempting to break my driveshaft loose. I decided to start the car, put it in gear and have the engine torque the driveshaft off the pinion flange. (done it a few times before... this junction always causes me problems) Anyway, this time I forgot that I had removed the calipers and rotors from the axle. So, I started the car with my foot on the brake and the pedal went to the floor. I realized that I had just forced the rear pads together on both sets of calipers. Hoping for the best I pressed the pistons back to the needed position. Later that day I had the whole rear end back together. Drove the car but the right rear rotor wasn't flat (burr on the axle) so I got a pulsing brake. I pulled off the rotor and fixed the axle problem. When I had the caliper off I needed to move the pads a little farther apart so I got a screwdriver and stuck it between the pads and twisted. The pads moved more rapidly than I thought and were driven back to the face of the caliper. When I started the car the brake pedal went to the floor (slowly) and the brake light came on in the dash. I removed the distribution block switch and put it back. (light went out) Brakes were still soft. I noticed the right rear caliper was no longer moving. The pistons were not pressing the pads to the rotor. I decided to bleed the brakes, thinking I might have caused a problem. No effect. I did get fluid (2 years old) out of all the calipers with no problem. I then took off the right rear caliper and removed the pistons. They looked clean, though one seemed to be much harder to remove than the other. (these were rebuild calipers ~5 years ago & 30k miles) Bleed the whole system again. No luck. The pedal is soft and goes to the floor. Though, the brake light hasn't come on again. I might have messed up the switch when I put it back together. Soooo, I decided that all of this pedal to the floor business had messed up my master cylinder. (5 years, 30k miles old) Just replaced that. No change. I'm kinda out of ideas. The rubber lines are IPD SS lines, 5 years and 30k miles old. I've modified my system for a Jumbo upgrade. Right now I have two lines blocked from the MC. I'm running a right front/left rear and left front/right rear diagonal distribution. When I drive, I do get some brakes, but the car pulls very hard to the right. Makes me think that my whole right rear, left front diagonal isn't getting pressurized. When I pressure bleed I get flow (similar rates) through all of the calipers. Anybody have any thoughts? I haven't noticed, but does the car have an independent proportioning valve for each of the rear wheels? Could I have messed up the RR proportioning valve in such a way that I get fluid flow but no pressure to the RR caliper? Thanks for any thoughts! -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1342413&rss=1 Tue, 7 Apr 2009 19:46 GMT Does anybody have a clue where I can buy a Ring and Pinion set for my Volvo 1031 rear? The dealer wants $900 (last I checked) and SAM wants about the same when shipping/tax is included. I've checked with Randy's and Reider racing and neither are helpful. Randy's didn't want to talk about anything but a 240 rear end and Reider thought that a Dana 30 would fit fine. But, they also thought that a Dana 30 had an 8.75" ring gear!!! (just to be clear, the Dana 30 gear set WILL NOT fit a 1031 rear) I'm specifically looking for a 3:31 gear set. any help is appreciated! -Simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1284165&rss=1 Wed, 18 Jun 2008 17:56 GMT *IF* I could reach the area without pulling the motor, I might be inclined to try some creative fixes. Right now I'm trying JB weld. The only reason I'm trying this over anything else is that I can goop it on the part and set it in place. With my arm squeezed through the back of the engine bay I can *just* reach the sensor with my finger tips, pushing it in place. Bottom line is that there is no way I could drill/screw/fit anything else down there as I simply don't have the access. The long-term fix is to pull the engine/tranny and replace the bracket. (I'll do my leaky rear main seal at the same time!) Just need a solid long-weekend to do it. -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1283877&rss=1 Tue, 17 Jun 2008 12:57 GMT Well, figured it out. My RPM sensor is dead. The bracket (pot metal?) holding it on is completely broken. Somehow the rpm sensor must have been dragging on the flywheel, causing the squeal. After 100 miles of bombing down the freeway, it "caught" and completely ripped off the bracket. The RPM sensor was just dangling by the back of the block. With no RPM, the injectors wouldn't fire. No idea what caused this. I've had then engine/tranny out once four years ago to fix a rear main seal. While the RPM sensor is surrounded by the tranny bellhousing I *might* have knocked it on the firewall. Still, I'm pretty surprised. On the downside, the bracket is surrounded by the bellhousing. Only way to install a "new" bracket is to pull the transmission. While I can do that, I can't do it right now. I'm thinking JB Weld for the bracket for a temp fix. If anybody has any other ideas, I'm open to them. -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1283702&rss=1 Mon, 16 Jun 2008 18:47 GMT Thought of two more things. First - water pump spun with no issues or sounds. Second - when I pulled the plugs for the compression test, they all seemed dry. They should have been wet as I was only testing one cylinder at a time. Gonna check fuel. Guess my noises could have been the fuel pump. With no in-tank pump a fuel pump failure could cause both the noise and the no-start. -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1283694&rss=1 Mon, 16 Jun 2008 17:23 GMT All, Car is my wife's 1994 945t. It is around 230k miles. Beyond a new turbo last year, the engine has had only normal maintenance. At the 90 mile mark of a 100 mile trip yesterday I heard a rattle start from the car. Sounded like a fan blade just tapping plastic/metal. There was no power loss, drivability issues, or anything out of the ordinary. Later that day I started the car to drive back the 100 miles. The most awful wail came from the engine compartment. Sounded like metal on metal, but I don't know if that's what it was. It changed tone with RPM, but not in a consistent way. The change in the RPM was what changed the tone... once it reached steady state RPM, the tone settled. Turning the AC on and off did nothing. Turning the steering did nothing. Thought that it might have been the alternator bearings. Belts were tensioned fine, timing belt seemed OK, and temperature seemed fine. Instead of towing it 100 miles, I chose to drive it. (I had a screwdriver and no other tools) Noise got worse driving home. It was intermittent at first. At about 30 miles it became constant. At 50 miles it became louder. At 70 miles there was a "bang" and the engine shut off. I pulled over to the side of the road. The engine would turn over without problem and there was no bad noise. (whatever was rubbing must have broken off) But, I couldn't get the engine to start. Temp was fine, oil was fine, as were the belts and timing belt. Nothing was leaking or out of the ordinary. Got a tow home (only 30 miles). I've been guessing and checking to see if I could find/fix the problem fast. But, no luck. The sound was definitely rotary in nature. I pulled the timing cover and the belt looks pristine (25k old). The tensioner shows no wear. (don't know when I changed it last though) The timing is spot on. The distributor and cap looked fine. (cleaned them up while I had them off, but it was just normal wear) The turbo spins freely with no issues. Compression is 124,128,135,136 on cylinders 1-4. I haven't done much internal engine diagnostics, but I would guess that most head issues would show up on a compression test? Cam turns when the crank turns. The PS pump spins with no grinding noises. So, here is where I'm at. The engine cranks over with no problem. But, it isn't starting. Still no nasty noises. I haven't checked for spark, fuel, or air specifically. Though, even if I did find something, I'm guessing it would be a side effect. I have not pulled the AC or Alternator belt to check those devices. My next step will be to pull those belts and check for spark. Anybody have any other suggestions? Thanks for your help! -simon simon.dodd at alum.mit.edu http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1283680&rss=1 Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:11 GMT Thanks for everybody's ideas! I couldn't get any of the suggestions to work. So, I put on the ebrake and gently put the car into reverse. Driveshaft popped off the pinion flange with a groan and all was good. Thanks! -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1270379&rss=1 Wed, 9 Apr 2008 19:25 GMT Unfortunately, the car is already supported by jack stands at the rear jacking points. I had a differential cover leak that I was fixing concurrently, so I needed the axle hanging as low as it would go. I've also disconnected the center bearing support, so the driveshaft is unstressed and not putting any weird torque on the pinion flange to driveshaft joint. =( -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269986&rss=1 Mon, 7 Apr 2008 16:47 GMT Chris, ROCKING the car sounds like a good idea. The only "power" method I could think of was probably your "extreme" idea... putting on the ebrake and putting it into drive. Didn't like the idea of the driveshaft actually coming off the pinion flange and bouncing around. =) Rocking the car sounds much better. -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269984&rss=1 Mon, 7 Apr 2008 16:44 GMT I've been soaking with pb blaster for 24 hours now so hopefully the oxidation is giving up. I'll try the block of wood, though the only place to get a decent whack is on the other side of the Ujoint, putting stress on the Ujoint. -simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269982&rss=1 Mon, 7 Apr 2008 16:42 GMT Anybody had any issues with their driveshafts getting stuck to their pinion shafts? I'm trying to replace the rear tranny seal on my '85 745 w/ LT1/4L60E. I can't remove the driveshaft because I can't get the driveshaft to separate from the pinion shaft. I've removed all 4 nuts/bolts, but now I'm stuck. I haven't had this apart since building the car 4 years ago, though a shop did rebuild the rear end last time I blew up my gears. I've tried penetrating oil and a cold chisel. I'm worried that If I whack on it too much I'm going to damage my pinion bearing/seals. Any guesses??? thanks, simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269938&rss=1 Mon, 7 Apr 2008 12:33 GMT All, Thank you for your thoughts and Ideas. The car is now back on the road and more powerful/responsive than it ever was! On Monday and Tuesday I replaced: -Water pump -front seals -timing belt -accessory belts -thermostat -radiator hoses -intake & intercooler hoses -exhaust manifold gaskets -all exhaust manifold & turbo studs/nuts -turbo core -turbo oil lines The water pump was definitely bad, as were all of the intercooler/intake hoses. The turbo had a bent shaft, causing the compressor side to rub the housing and the exhaust side to rub the bearing seal. Most everything else was basic maintenance or because it was apart and easier to replace than take apart again in 10k miles when it was due. The car now drives better than it ever has for me. (purchased at 100k miles) Turbo spool-up is much quicker! Max boost is up from where it has been recently. And, the whole exhaust is a tad more quiet... probably from fixing a couple of small leaks. When I let off the gas after a hard pull I have a nice whistle as the turbo spools down. The change in the car is so obvious that my wife even commented on it! Thank you all for your help! -Simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1153592&rss=1 Thu, 25 Jan 2007 13:06 GMT Thanks for the ideas! I took everything apart last night. My water pump was definitely leaking out the weep hole, though this was recent. No indication of an extended time of leaking. All of the hoses were replaced within the last year or two, including the heater control valve, so the WP was a simple R&R. The radiator was replaced for preventative maintenance a few years ago. I pulled the turbo off and took it apart. The wastegate is seemingly free from cracks, which is good. Looks like the turbo shaft is bent. There is no obvious signs of impact, so I'm guessing that there was a significant heat cycle, probably due to the water pump leak. Though, the turbo was original, so it could have been nearly dead anyway. Compression test shows no signs of a head gasket failure, which is good! =) -Simon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1153120&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jan 2007 17:12 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/