http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=6517 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:53 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:53 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. That's what I did and I can't imagine doing the job without this step. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386915&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:35 GMT I don't remember which brand I bought. In comparing them, the rubber on them seemed to be harder than the Volvo ones so they transmitted more vibration. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383889&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 18:04 GMT I once purchased some aftermarket mounts that had the same effect. I replaced them with Volvo mounts and the shaking went away. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383750&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 02:43 GMT My experience is the same as Mr.Wizzard, when you turn the knob to the right, really hot air comes out. When you turn it to the left, it is ambient temp. There must be another valve that is activated on the inside. But why have two valves? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380552&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 19:20 GMT When I turn the control I DO get heat, eventhough the valve under the hood has the vacuum line disconnected. That is why I am confused. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379921&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 18:57 GMT I am confused. While trying to track down a vacuum leak, I put a golf T in the vacuum line that goes to the water control valve under the hood. I then expected to lose control over the temperature of air to the cabin. However the temperature control knob is still regulating the temperature to the cabin. What does that knob control? So do I really need the valve under the hood? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379843&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 13:53 GMT I'm still trying to track down a vacuum leak that is affecting the dash vents. I found that the heater water valve is not holding a vacuum. Should it ? Is this the source of my vacuum leak? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378618&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:46 GMT I'm trying to track down a leak in the vacuum system that controls the dash vents. The golf T in the yellow line no longer works. There is a picture that shows the reservoir right next to the blower motor, but it ain't there on my car. Is it some where in the middle of the console? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378581&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 17:50 GMT So the 940T was shifting a little hard. I adjusted it as far as it would go -- better shifting but it still was shifting a little hard. I noticed that the stop ferule was going all the way and hitting the cable sheath. So I used a screw driver and hammer to loosed the ferule and move it back a 1/2 inch or so. This fixed the hard shift but now I wonder if this was a symptom of the transmission moving. I looked at the engine and transmissions mounts and they look OK. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375730&rss=1 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 19:54 GMT There are three seals within the distributer that can leak. Perhaps a previous owner or shop tried to fix a leak with silicone on the outside. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375727&rss=1 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 19:45 GMT So it turns out that I had bad info on the brown vs grey pressure switches. It is actually the grey that controls low speed on the fan. I jumpered the connections to the grey and all I got was a click from the fan relay. I took out the relay and found one of the contacts rattling around in the box -- broken off. So I am ordering a used one off of eBay. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369012&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 16:53 GMT The saga continues... On my 945T the cooling fan comes on low speed when the AC is on. However, on my 944T the cooling fan comes on at high speed only --- 4 seconds on and 10 seconds off. I jumped the connection at the brown switch on the compressor and the fan runs at low speed. So that part of the system must be working. So maybe it is the pressure switch. Then I swap brown pressure switches with my other car and it makes no difference. What else is controlling the fan? Maybe the pressure is somehow activating the high speed but when it comes back down shouldn't it activate the low speed switch at some point? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368879&rss=1 Sat, 29 Aug 2009 19:57 GMT I put in a rebuilt compressor, dryer and oriface. The AC works OK but not at cold as the original compressor. At idle or stop lights, it is especially lukewarm. At idle and 90 degrees outside, the radiator cooling fan starts when the low side pressure rises to 45. It stays on for 4 seconds and then the fan stops and the pressure starts to drop. When the pressure drops to 38, the pressure then starts to rise again. In about 10 seconds, the pressure is back up to 45 and the fan kicks on. This cycle then continues on and on. In comparison, when my other 940T is at idle, the fan comes on and stays on. The pressure stays at 33 without any change. And the air is nice and cold. Is this a compressor problem, freon problem, or fan problem, or sensor problem? (when I vacuumed and put r134 in the system, I put in 3 (12 oz.) cans, and the system calls for 30 oz so there should be plenty of r134) Thanks for any ideas. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368724&rss=1 Fri, 28 Aug 2009 19:28 GMT I tried the plastic gas tank repair stuff. Didn't work, so I bought a used one for $100. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368685&rss=1 Fri, 28 Aug 2009 14:36 GMT The only place that I can still find inserts is at O'Reillys. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368304&rss=1 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 19:53 GMT The air from the AC gets warm at at stoplights. So I am wondering about the operation of the fan that blows across the condensor. When at idle, and the AC on, and about 98 degrees outside, the fan cycles on and off. It runs for 3-4 seconds and then is off for 3-4 seconds, then back on for 3-4 seconds, etc. Does this sound right? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367578&rss=1 Sat, 22 Aug 2009 20:28 GMT My 94 940 was doing the exact same thing. I resoldered the connections on the relay and now it is fixed. Cost = $0 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367372&rss=1 Fri, 21 Aug 2009 14:57 GMT I replaced the tank on my 940 and the straps were a straight forward and easy part of the process. You can't lift the tank any. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367370&rss=1 Fri, 21 Aug 2009 14:51 GMT I have a 1994 940 Turbo also with this problem. Over the past 10 years, I replaced the tensioner several times. I did the back off and relieve the tension thing. I also had the mounting bolts come loose and/or snap several times. I would replace them with higher rated bolts from the bolt specialty shop. I also had frequent squealing from the belt when the compressor engaged at highway speed. The compressor was very hard, no impossible, to turn by hand. Finally about six months ago, it seized up and I replaced it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360754&rss=1 Sun, 19 Jul 2009 15:30 GMT I added more and the pressure kept going up. I talked to him again and he was frustrated when I told him there was no place to read the high side. They are sending me another compressor. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357260&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 19:58 GMT Ebay has them regularly and they go for $20-$30. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357259&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 19:55 GMT The guy at the compressor rebuild shop says I have too little R134 and to slowly add until the pressure comes down to the correct range. I'll try it this weekend. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356064&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 15:57 GMT I replace the compressor with a rebuilt and put in three cans of r134. Now it puts out cool air but not quite as cool as the old compressor did. The low side pressure reads 45-55, which I understand is high. Should I bleed out some 134a to get the pressure down and improve ac performance? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355819&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jun 2009 15:02 GMT I purchased a 1994 945 with the same fix by a previous owner. He by-passed the control unit and installed this extra switch. 940's have a common problem with a specific circuit connection on the back- side of the environmental control unit. The fix is a simple resolder once you get to it. The directions are found in the FAQ. The toggle switch is bad because it causes the compressor to run continuously which can cause an ice-up condition. . http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354697&rss=1 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 22:00 GMT I am replacing my pressostat this evening due to a small leak. I know that it has a shrader valve and won't open the system to replace it. So my plan is to see if the system still has some pressure and if so, to just add r-134 and not dump any remaining r-134 and re-vac the system. Do this seem like the way to proceed? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351973&rss=1 Wed, 3 Jun 2009 17:14 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/