http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=6235 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 15:20 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 15:20 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Actually, the threads and the flare seemed to survive perfectly but the nut part of the fitting will not spin free on the pipe part of the crimped-on assembly. When I try to rotate the nut it won't budge... it is stuck. If I turn any harder I will be twisting the pipe that the nut is supposed to slide on. It has transformed into a one-piece flare fitting. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385068&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 04:43 GMT It's a '89 240, I have a '90 245 with the same AC Compressor. I soaked it with PBlaster and tapped on it endlessly and it doesn't budge. If I use any more force it is going to gouge and distort the fitting. It is just a typical looking flare fitting but the nut is totally stuck; it looks like soft metal that is going to get ruined if I keep messing with it. I got the hose disconnected from the compressor but I had to twist it into knots until the flare cleared the threads. I'll have to turn the entire hose to thread it back on & I probably screwed up the metal interior of the hose by forcing it into extremely ungentle curves. I was curious if anyone else has hit this unexpected snag. Even off the car, the flare fitting doesn't want to give. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384855&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 05:17 GMT Anybody run into a problem where the flare fitting assembly is frozen into a single part? The nut turns and the whole AC hose turns with it? The hose twists into a tightly knotted pretzel? The AC hose with the 90-degree metal pipe flared fitting spun easily. The other hose with the straight metal pipe + flared fitting (the one that reaches across the valve cover)will not let go of the nut. I tried penetrating oil and tapping and pliers on the crimped part of the fitting but it won't give. Now that it is off the compressor I'll try heating it, too. In retrospect, I suppose that I could have avoided twisting the hose if I'd disconnected it from the accumulator end under the dash. But I stll can't get the nut to turn and that seems weird to me. It isn't supposed to be like this is it? Any suggestions other than replacing the hose? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384525&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:20 GMT The picture highlighting the 4 electrical screws (circled in RED) for the speedometer is very helpful. Thank you. Would you be willing to post a similar picture for the for the FUEL GAUGE electrical screws mentioned in this thread? I've got problems with both on our 1991 740. Glad I saw this post. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376742&rss=1 Fri, 2 Oct 2009 17:53 GMT How do you know when you need a new catalytic converter? Which "idiot light" comes on when you need to replace the catalytic converter? What causes that dash light to come on? Is there anyway to test the catalytic converter myself? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372064&rss=1 Sun, 13 Sep 2009 18:03 GMT Fuel filter was the first thing I changed. And air cleaner, and dist.cap and rotor, wires, and plugs. I haven't listened for the transfer pump lately. I have a cheapo compression tester but haven't used it. I should check them. I have wondered about the catalytic converter & have looked to see if the header or anything else was glowing red --- any tips on checking the catalytic converter? Taking all the belts off and the timing cover to get at the seals made me think about what else I should be thinking about. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368617&rss=1 Fri, 28 Aug 2009 02:17 GMT My wife's 1991 745 has one of those rear-mounted camshaft driven distributors; my 240 parts cars do not. The engine has 300,000+ miles and has been weak and missing going uphill for awhile. The front camshaft oil seal has a leak I had not noticed and the upper waterpump seal has now failed as a result of this neglect. Since I am looking at repairing the waterpump leak, and oil leak, and probably ought to replace the timing belt: I'm thinking about pulling a similar head from the junkyard and swapping them to improve the power loss I presume is mostly due to excessive wear. Money & time are big problems for us and I am needing to keep it cheap & brief. I'm kind of personally overwhelmed right now questioning my judgement & looking for advice because I am worried about missing something obvious that I should have thought of in advance and thus creating more problems for myself & my family. Any tips about the camshaft or whatever? Would a good used engine from a 240 (with the other common style distributor) also mean changing the ECU and??? I do have a relatively intact 1990 245 (it was the best running Volvo we owned but it got "rolled" and unsafe to drive due to body damage) thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368546&rss=1 Thu, 27 Aug 2009 20:05 GMT If it didn't have a little Trbo gauge, I'd be certain that it was identical to mine. I'd think that the harness for the Turbo would have a few more live wires but that it would be otherwise the same & since there's no Turbo on this Volvo that it will hopefully do no harm. But I don't know.. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361182&rss=1 Tue, 21 Jul 2009 17:41 GMT I've seen photos comparing various spray patterns... but what's that mean? "more refined" "for the older engine"? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361180&rss=1 Tue, 21 Jul 2009 17:34 GMT Anyone familiar with the Denso fuel injectors sold as exact replacements for OEM Bosch injectors? Advertised as having a "more refined spray for those older engines?" http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361131&rss=1 Tue, 21 Jul 2009 08:45 GMT Our 740 wagon is a non-turbo. I bought an instrument cluster from a 740Turbo wagon because it looks identical to the troublesome one that I want to replace... except for an added Turbo gauge & rubber tube. Even the odometer reset works. Looks perfect. QUESTION: Are the turbo and non-turbo model harnesses & connectors otherwise similar and therefore compatible? Can I use this Turbo cluster in place of mine? Plug & play? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361130&rss=1 Tue, 21 Jul 2009 08:02 GMT Check for ground pulses: I'll need a "noid light" --- It is intermittent, and it usually restarts... it just stalls and sometimes it won't start right away. So, to reiterate, if I unplug one of the injectors, plug in the test light, and, it doesn't start AND doesn't light then the ground pulses aren't arriving. If the noid light flashes and it doesn't start it is something else. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360897&rss=1 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 06:07 GMT Replaced FPR. When I cranked-it myself and it didn't start I took off the ashtray and put my fingers on the FPR. It clicked and I believe that I heard the fuel pump going. I'm not sure about a 2nd click at the FPR but I felt a definite second click from the front row of relays. No start. Is the second FPR click more subtle? Cranked it again. FPR clicks (not sure about a second click at the FPR but definite second click on front relays). No start. Cranked it again & it starts. No differance felt on clicks from first two trys. Shut it off. Tried it again. Starts. No differance felt on clicks when it starts and when it doesn't start. Replaced RSR. Didn't fix it. Stalled again after driving down the street. Started right up again. Could it be the ignition switch? Fuse tray? FPR blue plastic socket? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360896&rss=1 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 05:57 GMT Please clarify for me; I'm not understanding your summary -- Are you saying that Rex Regina's almost never have ECU problems? Or, are you saying that Rex Regina's commonly have ECU problems? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360891&rss=1 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 05:36 GMT The reason I asked is because I suspect that they are indentical: size, shape, robust connectors, rating: 12v/40amp. I was expecting someone to explain that the one that came out of the junked 850 is more heavy-duty or corrosion resistant, or, reliable, or... something. I went to the junkyard looking for a rex/regina coil/powerstage, and, an RSR on a rex/regina 740 to hopefully solve my rex/regina intermittent stalling and no-start problem. Found a dozen junked 240/740 Volvos but not a single rex/regina in the bunch. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360889&rss=1 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 05:24 GMT QUESTION: What's the difference between the commonplace 1323592-1 black box relay used variously under the hood in 240/740's, and, this newer gray box 3 545 803 that I pulled from a 850? Ever since I noticed the date-stamps on Volvo relays I tend to browse the junkyard thinking "the newer used component might be better?" http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360564&rss=1 Sat, 18 Jul 2009 06:53 GMT Sorry about my unclear and misleading description "intermittent hard start" --- the symptom pattern is confusing. It has always started after some interval; it is an easy start if it restarts in 2-seconds and seems more like a "no start" when it fires-up after 3 or 4 repeated attempts but has been a definite no-start for two weeks. When it runs okay for a week or months after I've seemingly "fixed-it"--- then stalls and won't start again for a couple of hours I have other more colorful vocabulary that is perhaps even more useless. I digress. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357878&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 21:43 GMT Sorry about my unclear and misleading description "intermittent hard start" --- the symptom pattern is confusing. It has always started after some interval; it is an easy start if it restarts in 2-seconds and seems more like a "no start" when it fires-up after 3 or 4 repeated attempts but has been a definite no-start for two weeks. When it runs okay for a week or months after I've seemingly "fixed-it"--- then stalls and won't start again for a couple of hours I have other more colorful vocabulary that is perhaps even more useless. I digress. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357877&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 21:43 GMT OBD says 2-2-3 "signal missing to/from idle valve" This is really an intermittent stall followed by an intermittent hard start. It might be several days later it starts right up or it might re-start immediately. (I've replaced the FPR and the Speed Sensor). This has been going on for months now. (I decided to start a new thread because it is so old). The OBD code is fairly recent. Months ago it had no code. The first thing I did was clean the throttle body and IAC (IAC bench-tested okay). Last week OBD was 2-2-3 and whatever the code is for the knock sensor...(this time it is only an OBD code for IAC). I replaced the Speed Sensor and it ran like a champ for a week. You can feel the FPR "click" on. It has a full tank of gas and I can hear the transfer pump with a rubber hose "stethoscope" in my ear. QUESTION: could a faulty IAC cause this 745 to intermittently stall at 30 MPH or less? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357075&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 21:28 GMT OBD says 2-2-3 "signal missing to/from idle valve" This is really an intermittent stall followed by an intermittent hard start. It might be several days later it starts right up. QUESTION: could a faulty IAC cause this 745 to intermittently stall at 30 MPH or less? I think I should start a new thread. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357071&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 21:17 GMT Well... it wasn't the RPM Sensor. After a week of me thinking that I'd fixed the problem: it stalled 4 times today but re-started almost immediately; when it wouldn't re-start after stall #5 my daughter called me. Via the telephone, I had her put her fingers on the Fuel Pump Relay and she felt it "click" on --- I presume that means the FPR and its connections are working. Please correct me if I am wrong. I'm running out of ideas. And she has a full tank of gas --- I presume that could likely rule out a transfer pump problem. This 1992 745 has a "different" Radio Interference Suppression Relay; it's larger than the familiar twins on our other Volvos: it is Black, on a rail by itself. Is there an easy test? I don't have a known good one. I'll check for codes again. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356882&rss=1 Sat, 27 Jun 2009 05:59 GMT Dear Sirs: Thanks for the advice. Evidently, it WAS the RPM Sensor. Replacing the RPM Sensor was one of those "I'm at my wits end," and, "it'll do no harm" repairs --- your suggestion to do so, and your careful choice of wording about it being "likely" to throw a code prompted me to remove and replace it --- oddly, there WERE codes for the IAC and knock sensor (and those codes have NOT reappeared!) but there was no OBD code stored to indicate the RPM Sensor. You fellows have once again proven to be more reliable than OBD http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355751&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jun 2009 01:19 GMT Thank you for the link to the Greenbooks; a veritable bonanza of info! Great! I got a couple of OBD codes this time: Faulty circuit to/from and/or faulty IAC and knock sensor. I think that I have a few spare knock sensors but the '92 745 has a different IAC than our other Volvos. I cleaned and bench tested the IAC when this all started (and it seemed okay) but I didn't test the circuit. Think I'll visit the junkyard and grab an IAC and some harness and maybe a rex coil. thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355436&rss=1 Sat, 20 Jun 2009 09:54 GMT Thank you for the advice and the wiring diagram! Just exactly what I'm needing. Intermittent problems are tough. Her car wouldn't start again and then 3-minutes later it started right up. Sometimes it stalls when she is slowing or waiting at a stop. It isn't safe and I am determined to figure it out for her. Thank you thank you thank you. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354277&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 22:12 GMT I'm troubleshooting my daughter's wagon via telephone again, (she's #4 of 5 daughters driving old volvos I keep running). Previously, I've asked for help with this intermittent no-start problem and it has again returned. It was unclear that anything I did sent the problem away temporarily. In the past, it would start if she persisted in trying again and again, sometimes days later. In the past it had no OBD codes, and I've bypassed the fuel relay and also tried a known good one. I have a few questions that I thought I'd ask --- other old volvos have a separate (under dash, black box) ignition computer; does the 1992 740 wagon have one? I will check for spark at the plugs and check for codes and replace the RPM sensor whether or not there are OBD codes but I will have to What is the smart way to otherwise test the rex-regina coil? (This is the only Regina volvo I've owned). The engine cranks but doesn't start, what is the smart way to test the ignition switch? I've got a graduation ceremony to go to. I'll think of other questions later http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353868&rss=1 Fri, 12 Jun 2009 21:24 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/