http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5707 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 02:09 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 02:09 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. From actual experience I know that a 230FB runs, but just barely, if flywheel is put back one mounting hole offset wrong ie 1/8 of 360 degrees. Took a while to figure that out after replacing crankshaft and M47 seals... You're not alone and in the end, experience is the sum of all of ones mistakes. HTH, mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386512&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:00 GMT According to http://volvocars.spx.com tool 9995284 is good for your engine. I haven't tried the rope trick for myself on this engine, but can't see why it shouldn't work. HTH mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385749&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 08:30 GMT Interesting point Spoke. Did you by any chance use lubricant when you originally press fitted the plug that loosened? I've into my second replacement radiator and both times I've had to use a very thin smear of washing-up liquid on the plug to make it all the way in. This have worked for some 260000 km without any securing wire, but that for sure is no guarantee for the future. Check your radiator fitting after a while. In theory brass should corrode when in contact with stainless. mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384445&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 13:11 GMT To rule out the brakes you really need to measure the runout with an indicator. Could be bad rotors, some have reported they warp after uneven torquing, ie use torqe wrench when replacing wheels. Could also be rust/dirt where the rotors attach to the hubs. HTH mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384439&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 12:26 GMT You could try to splash some water on the belts. They can make surprisingly different sounds when aging and the water usually quiets them for some seconds. A long screwdriver used as a stethoscope is also usable for locating sounds under the hood. Hold the end against for instance the generator and press your ear against the handle and you'll pickup the mechanical sounds. Be careful though where your poking... Other interresting parts to listen to are the servo pump, timing belt tensioner (accessible if you remove the rubber plug on front of engine if I remember correctly), and in your case of course the turbo itself. HTH mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380432&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 07:45 GMT I'm located in Sweden, and I must admit I havent really verified the parts are available at the dealer. But if they are in the catalog... If you have no success with dinomartinos suggestion contact me offline and let's see if I can help you. HTH mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376428&rss=1 Thu, 1 Oct 2009 12:20 GMT Well, this is the current online catalog so I guess everything Volvo lists here should be available. Things might be different on non Swedish markets. mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375855&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 07:15 GMT Had the same problem on two starters. Both were cured with cleaning and new grease for the internal planet gears. mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375854&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 07:11 GMT http://vccs.volvocars.se/accessories/cat/pdf/X90.pdf A catalogue of the available accessories with part numbers. Enjoy! mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374763&rss=1 Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:22 GMT I second this approach for belt tension. It has kept my latest pump going for 400000kms. Mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373062&rss=1 Thu, 17 Sep 2009 06:53 GMT Undo the panel and snap the linkage apart. It's a ball-in-a-plastic-cup fitting that can be separated. Now the linkage should move easily, otherwise time to replace it. The linkage is a separate replaceable unit from the motor. Should be fairly obvious when you look at it. You can also thest the motor now by activating the wiper. I've replaced the linkage on both my 945's, both motors had survived the seizing. Take care not to scratch the outside of the door with the wiper when the linkage is separated. HTH mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372499&rss=1 Tue, 15 Sep 2009 07:17 GMT If you have an OEM radiator there is a drain cock on the lower right where you can drain it. There is also a drain cock on the lower rear part of the engine, right side. I think they both seal with conical surfaces so you don't need very much torque to these. Put the heater to max warm before draining. Thermostat housing is also a good place to put your hose and flush, since you already open this for replacing the thermostat? As for tightening the hose clamps you dont need very much torque since you have new hoses. A 7mm socket with a screwdriver type handle and flexible shaft is the best tool for the clamps. Check for leaks after driving a few miles. Your rear wiper most likely have a seized mechanism. Not to difficult to replace. This is a common failure on the wagons, at least on the salty Swedish roads. HTH mila (who just flushed two 945's) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372244&rss=1 Mon, 14 Sep 2009 11:47 GMT Yes, same switch used as for the brake. mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369912&rss=1 Thu, 3 Sep 2009 14:11 GMT Thanks for the clarification. Back to the sketch board. mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369856&rss=1 Thu, 3 Sep 2009 07:18 GMT Not really... I want the manifold and filling cap for the rear shocks to be accessible without emptying the cargo area. It's now placed in the left wheel well. If there was a panel with a tool bay and lid for the left side like the one for the right side it would fill my needs. Also a perfect place for a 12V socket. mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369620&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 09:16 GMT Hi, Could anybody with a RHD 945 tell me where the tool bay is located? Left or right side? If it's in the left side a panel with such a tool bay would be great for my project to mount a 12V outlet and the manifold for the adjustable shocks. TIA, mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369499&rss=1 Tue, 1 Sep 2009 20:57 GMT Did this a couple of years ago so the details are blury by now, but I didn't run into any specific problems as I remember it. I think its a good idea to take out as much gas as possible. You probably will have to support the tanks weight, at least some of it since the tank hangs on a shelf on the back end. I didnt need to open any brake lines for sure. HTH mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367345&rss=1 Fri, 21 Aug 2009 12:54 GMT Without any numbers to back it up, I don't think worn crankshaft bearings is a common problem on this engine. An oil pressure test could probably tell you more about this before deciding. I replaced the cylinder head gasket at about 240 kmiles, cleaned and lapped the valves, fine compound only and got an engine with a lot more omph and higher MPG. Luckily, the valves became perfectly within tolerance after lapping. Before, they were slightly out of tolerance. I would say that if the pressure test is OK, lapping is not necessary. But on the other hand, at 260 kmiles it's very unlikely it is not needed. HTH, mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365809&rss=1 Thu, 13 Aug 2009 13:16 GMT In the electric diagram this connector is dashed and seems to be present only for B200/230G, B230GT/FT or B234G 016 AMM is what is on my B230FD (-93) HTH mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358584&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 20:12 GMT Ouch, a little trigger happy... You're right, that torque was for the flywheel to crankshaft connection. The torque should be, according to Haynes 940 manual, 25 Nm or 18 ftlb. Interestingly enough, the 740 manual says "tighten properly"! You should be fine with 20. Sorry about that, mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358574&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 19:07 GMT The Haynes 740 manual says 70Nm and use new bolts for 4 cylinder engines. So does the Haynes 940 manual, 70Nm, new bolts. If my math is OK that should be about 50 ftlb. For the B28 engine the torque should be 45-50 Nm which translates to 33 to 37 ftlb. HTH, mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358565&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 17:53 GMT Sorry, I have no info about that. Maybe it's in the ECC manual that I don't have. I think there are schrader valves behind the switches , but if that's correct and you can connect your gauges there I cannot tell. But if it is possible it would be interesting for all those asking for a high side port on these cars here in the forum. mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358560&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 17:40 GMT I'll check if I find it in the manual. mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358492&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 07:06 GMT There is also a high pressure cut-out switch in series with the low pressure switch. Both coupled in series with the magnetic clutch. It's one of the three connectors in the condenser that could be possibly bad. On my car it's the rigthmost switch, travelling direction. HTH, mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358397&rss=1 Mon, 6 Jul 2009 17:57 GMT Good point Spook, But what I failed to say was that the fan was only spinning while ECC was engaged. It takes forever to turn the fan on by just idling the engine. mila http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357760&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 06:57 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/