http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5572 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 08:42 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 08:42 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. No so fast. The problem seems to be solved, but not through my diagnosis of a bad pump. Instead I got a reminder to thoroughly rule out easier fixes. When I was checking the pump, I reseated the power and ground connectors to the pump several times, but still got no action from the pump. Since i could measure 12v accross the connectors I figured the pump was bad. Once it was out I started testing the pump. It seemed intermittant so I was ready to order a pump and go to bed but decided to try a bit more. With better jumpers to the battery and decent alligator clips on the pump terminals, the pump ran fine - and with lots of starting and stopping I couldn't find any dead spots on the winding like I've had with electric fans. I stuck it back in (twice because I forgot the check valve the first time) and it run fine since. That was a week ago. I can't quite figure how a bad electrical connection would have a fairly predictable cyclic action (bad during cold start, going away at some point during warm up), particularly in an area that doesn't get much heat. But for now it seems fixed. thanks joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358265&rss=1 Sun, 5 Jul 2009 17:53 GMT I just did fpr test looking for flow through the fuel return line. I get no return at all, not even damp in the line. I also did two faq tests for fuel pump operation: jumpering fuse 1 to near and far contacts of fuse 11 (pre-pump operates, but main does not), and also jumpering teminal 30 to 87/2 on the fuel injection relay socket (pre-pump runs, main does not). I confirmed 12v across the main pump harness at the pump during the second test above, and also started the car with the main pump harness disconnected. The car ran with the same symptoms I've been getting. As soon as my work location is in shade I'll remove the main pump and try to bench test, but it is my most likely culprit so far. Joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357094&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 23:58 GMT Thanks, I found the fpr flow test on the faq. I'll give that a try. I haven't noticed signs of running rich, and yesterday the rough running came and went intermittently on a 45 minute highway drive - so maybe the problem is not tied to the warm-up period like I thought it was. The cat is a two year old dynaflo, but it should be easy enough to open the port and rule that out. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC motor 2 or 3 months ago when I had similar symptoms. I'll clean the TB again as soon as I get time though - it's nice to rule things out. joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356484&rss=1 Thu, 25 Jun 2009 04:31 GMT I'm having trouble diagnosing a rough-running / no power condition on my '94 940T. Here are the symptoms: At cold start (actually luke-warm start, 60 degree F ambient) it will start after 10-15 sec cranking but will not idle without throttle manipulation. I can hold it at a steady high idle for several seconds before the rpms drop rapidly to 0. I can overcome the stumble with more throttle manipulation, but the same stumble starts several seconds later. After a couple minutes of this, the idle stability improves somewhat (seems to be a noticeable step in stability, not a gradual improvement) to where I can hold a consistent high idle, but it will still stall with no throttle. Even as the idle stability improves, I still have no power. Under load it will not accept any more than a touch of throttle without bucking and stumbling. The threshold for this may be the point at which the TPS signals opening throttle - that's how little throttle it will accept. If I keep it running in this condition and driving slowly around the block, it will eventually "snap out" of this state and run normally. The takes between 5 minutes and 25 minutes. I have been through this cycle about 5 times now and it seems to be taking progressively longer to get to the strong running point. After reaching the running point, there are no problems at warm start. The condition returns after the car sits for 5 or 6 hours. What I've tried: No OBD codes set. I replaced spark plugs and rotor. Plugs were light gray and dry at electrode with no deposits. I've checked the ground straps and all vacuum hoses. Several months ago I had similar symptoms that were apparently solved with a new fuel filter. All sensors were replaced a little over 2 years ago when I bought the car with a blown head gasket. I guess I could try another fuel filter, but the relationship to the warm-up period with an abrupt change to normal running makes me wonder. Would a bad coolant temp sensor give this behavior? How about fuel pressure regulator? (I don't have tools on hand to check pressure but could work on that if it is likely.) Any other thoughts? -thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356103&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 19:09 GMT today's update: Unfortunately, when I started the car this afternoon, the rattle noise was not noticeable, and the screech disappeared suddenly about 5 seconds after start up. That made diagnosis difficult, but these are the results of my investigations: 1. spark plugs have mild carbon deposits (thin, no build-up) and light gray insulator - consistent through all 4, 2. turbo shaft has little or no play and spins freely, 3. the timing mark on the crank pulley was spot on and stable - this was observed when there was no screeching, but what is the chance that it could have been moving then stop back in the original place? 4. compression was pretty good - 143/152/142/163 5. I tightened the alt and a/c belts, but they were not sloppy 6. timing belt and tensioner are intact and quiet (they were new 3k ago) I'd be surprised if a crank bearing is failing at 150k on a squirter block, but I'll keep that in the back of my head if it comes back. I put it all back together and went for a drive - strong boost, no pinging, and no noise except for a slight belt chirp when the a/c compressor kicked in. I tightened the belt again and the chirp is now gone. I'm not sure what else I can do to identify this problem that no longer has any symptoms. I don't like waiting for it to come on again, but I'm running out of ideas. anyone else have more? thanks joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1196696&rss=1 Thu, 5 Jul 2007 03:27 GMT Thanks. Is there any way to look into that without dropping the oil pan and/or pulling the tranny? Would that give me low oil pressure? - I don't think my light came on, but if low pressure is a symptom I'll get a gauge on it before going further (after ruling out some easier causes.) joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1196471&rss=1 Wed, 4 Jul 2007 10:32 GMT My 94 940T developed a couple of bad new noises yesterday. I'm digging into it tomorrow and would like to hear any thoughts on what to look for. The noises came on suddenly with the engine warm but not hot, at about 30 mph under light boost uphill. The B230FT has 150K on it. I put in a new head gasket and a rebuilt 13C from FCP groton about 3K ago (when I bought it). No problems till now. Once the sound started I returned home immediately - about 1 mile. I didn't notice any symptoms other than the noise, but I took it very easy. The sound is a mix of a metallic rattle and an occasional screech. The speed of the rattle is related to rpm but not linearly - so I am guessing turbo. The end result of this is likely to be pulling the turbo and sending it back under warranty, but is there anything I should look at in the process? thanks- joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1196451&rss=1 Wed, 4 Jul 2007 07:59 GMT I found the Starla components fairly cheap at partsquick.com. Two mufflers, axle and tail pipes for about $120 USD plus shipping. I'll report back if there is anything surprising once it is delivered. joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1172475&rss=1 Tue, 3 Apr 2007 07:29 GMT I put one of the whistles behind my 240 grille years ago - maybe it's still there. I doubt it ever caught the attention of a deer. The best tip I have heard for deer avoidance is that one deer in the headlights usually means two more in the bush about to jump, so don't assume you're clear too quickly. -- '83 245, '94 945T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1168899&rss=1 Tue, 20 Mar 2007 18:55 GMT Thanks Pauli. I ended up ordering a rebuilt unit. When I got mine apart I found that it had pretty dramatic radial play. Joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1168391&rss=1 Sun, 18 Mar 2007 22:05 GMT Yesterday I towed home a '94 945T with my '83 245. The most obvious flaw with this 940 is that it blows smoke out of the tailpipe - substantial puffs at idle, and a solid dense stream with any throttle application. The smoke is white and persistant, the tailpipe has a thick coat of wet oil sludge, and most of the joints throughout the exhaust system are wet and/or dripping with oil. Naturally, it was rather cheap. I am new to 900's and to turbos, so I am seeking comments on my inspection and repair plans. It has 145K miles and no maint. records. I got it from the original owner who had been neglecting it for several years. Compression test (cold): 160,150,155,168 I am hoping that my compression readings rule out major problems in the cylinders, so I am focusing on crankcase ventilation first, then turbo inspection. I did remove the CBV diaphragm after reading somewhere in the faq that a torn diaphragm can send oil back through the vac lines into the intake manifold. I found lots of oil there too, but no obvious rupture. Aside from the smoke, I have noticed an odd thing that has me wondering about the headgasket too: I have only run the engine briefly several times and not long enough to get it hot, but twice I have found moderate pressure in the coolant resevoir tank within a minute or two of shutting off the engine. Coolant and tank look pretting clean, but I am wondering if the pressure is a sign of a blown gasket. I will have the intake off to do the oil trap. I don't know if I'll have the exhaust manifold off yet, but it doesn't seem much deeper to go to pop the head off. I did a headgasket on my 83 240 - but I am mildly nervous about exhaust studs on the turbo. I am reading quite a bit in the faq, but any comments welcome. thanks a couple pics: http://tinyurl.com/2dbng7 joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1164641&rss=1 Tue, 6 Mar 2007 09:27 GMT I'm worried about having an un-reinforced console - it's not possible for me to climb from the front to the back without putting weight on the console top. But I'm also worried that having three belt latch options (four if they're quick) will be too confusing for the carpoolers. I like your idea of splicing together an adapter harness to connect new to old - I'll never take half of a connector again. Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1071290&rss=1 Tue, 25 Apr 2006 07:12 GMT The driver's seatbelt on my '83 245 was getting to be difficult to use (automatic lock mechanism got very touchy) so I pulled a pair of the later style front belts and anchors from an '88. I have the belts and anchors installed, but the center console in the '88 at the pick'n'pull was already gone. Is the newer center console a different piece or is there a coin tray that just drops into the slot vacated by the old style belt latches? Looking at what I have, it seems that removing the old belt latches would remove all support for the console - is there a bracket that fits in there once the latch assembly is out? How have others solved the wiring (old connector uses two slots of square four slot blade connector while new connector is a flat 3 bullet connector)? I can look in Bently for diagrams and splice together something that works, but maybe someone has a more elegant solution... Thanks, Joe '83 245 DL 220K mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1071046&rss=1 Mon, 24 Apr 2006 17:07 GMT Thanks for all of the comments. I was planning to come back with more info and/or questions after taking a look, but it was sold before I could get over to see it. I did talk to the shop that diagnosed the headgasket and heater core but they weren't much help. He said "we must have found coolant in the oil, or maybe leaking out the side, or..." I am surprised at the $1200 figure suggested here for head reconditioning. I paid about $300 to have my b23f head surfaced and checked. I don't remember what that included but I know there were no valves replaced and no grinding. Guess I'll have to keep looking for a good deal. joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1051030&rss=1 Sat, 18 Feb 2006 01:02 GMT I'm considering a '94 940 turbo wagon that reportedly "needs a headgasket and heater core". 175K miles, cloth interior (unfortunatley), $800. I have asked for more info on the specifics and how the diagnosis was made. I hope to go take a look if I get reasonable and believable answers. I did the headgasket on my '83 245 NA about 40K ago, and also replaced the heater blower. I'm not afraid of the work as much as I am afraid of the unknowns: head turning out to be warped beyond machining, scored pistons from a bad overheat/seize, unknown turbo problems, etc... I've had the '83 245 for 10 happy years, but feel the pull of more comfort/quiet and a few more safety features. I figure I'll end up with a 94 turbo wagon eventually. The question is whether or not this is the one. thanks Joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1050110&rss=1 Tue, 14 Feb 2006 20:59 GMT I have one of these: http://tinyurl.com/5jk6h (in black) on driver and passenger doors. I mounted with screws on the fairly flat area of the door panel above the armrest/handle into the sheet metal of the door. When folded closed, they don't interfere with use of the door handle or armrest. I fold them up when not in use. You just have to remember not to leave a full cup of coffee in the holder when you slam the door closed. Seems like IPD once had a similar looking item but I found them cheaper at west marine. joe anyone have a spare m47? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=924490&rss=1 Wed, 23 Feb 2005 23:37 GMT Thanks Goldy and rcs for the cautions. There are a couple of yards I go to that have a pretty good selection of 200's to choose from, and they are mostly california cars, so I am able to be picky. Now that I hear it, I seem to remember that the 6 cylinder is lighter than the four, but I don't want increased clearance anyway, or decreased for that matter, just the best springs for sporting but daily driving. I understand that using yard parts is always a risk, and that there is no one else to share the risk with, but that's a debate between my wallet and my peace-of-mind. joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=701201&rss=1 Fri, 24 Oct 2003 23:56 GMT I need to get a variety of front suspension parts, mostly from the pick 'n pull, and I want to make sure I get the pick of the litter. I need the strut tube/spindle for both sides - maybe with springs, and the control arm for one side. I need the strut tubes due to rust on one side and a poor helicoil job for a caliper bolt on the other. I want the right control arm too because that side hasn't been the same since being clipped in a hit and run sometime back. The springs will be pennies at the yard so I just figure I may as well get some that are 5-10 years newer. Mine is an 83 245dl with about 200k. I figure that for the less rust-prone strut tubes/mounts I want mid 80's or later. Was there ever any variation in control arms? For a spring donor, were there any 240s with a slightly stiffer spring than my 83 dl or should I just get the newest? I know about the diesel and 6cyl stiff springs, and the GT setup with smaller sway bars - did everything else have the same front springs? thanks Joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=700594&rss=1 Thu, 23 Oct 2003 05:30 GMT It's not the capability of the car as designed that you should be concerned about, it's the current condition of the car. If you satisfy yourself, or better yet a trusted mechanic, that the important systems are in good repair then you should have no trouble. I pulled a medium sized enclosed trailer from st. louis to san francisco with my 83 245 - a couple thousand miles, a couple mountain ranges, probably around 2500 lbs trailer + load and more lbs. loaded in the car too. Stay out of overdrive, take it slow - don't push it up (or down) long grades, and keep an eye on the vital signs. Might be a good idea to have some tools with you - I replaced a fuel filter in Utah. For your hitch, get the frame mounted draw-tite or equivalent and have them install it. I like the original volvo 2" receiver even better if you can find one and don't mind installing it yourself (mostly bolt-up, with a few tricks) Don't consider anything that doesn't attach directly and securely to the frame. On my trip, I used a crappy thing that attached to the bumper shocks with u-bolts and also boted into the bottom of the bumper. In retrospect, I should never have attempted the trip with the hitch I had at the time, even though the trouble I was asking for never materialized. joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=647669&rss=1 Fri, 20 Jun 2003 19:28 GMT My pleasure. There may be more out there, but that is the only description I've ever read about the valves that gives some idea of what they were and even a hint at what volvo was trying to do with the chrysler ignition...maybe. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=608047&rss=1 Tue, 25 Mar 2003 23:14 GMT Last night I removed and replaced my rear TABs using a tool made to the homebrew bushing removal tool specifications. It took quite a long time - getting light when finished and cleaned up (with a few other little projects thrown in) - maybe 8 or 9 hours including brief bouts of despair and other breaks. I'm writing to add my experiences to the general body of wisdom 1. Bentley doesn't mention it, but I had to mess around with the exhaust system a fair amount to acomplish the required lowering of the axel. I disconnected the middle mount and rear mounts and suspended the muffler (rear muffler for the stock non turbo) from bungy cords then lifted it back up and re-attached the rear mounts once the coils were out. 2. A bottle jack and block of wood was very useful to raise various compenents for alignment of bolt holes and such - much easier than dealing with a floor jack when all you need is a couple inches. 3. 22mm bolt head and nut for TAB through bolt 4. The old bushings came out very easily - suprisingly so. I had air tools ready but I just cranked it out with a common wrench. 5. Have several of the 1/2" nuts on hand, I screwed up the first one I used by cranking down on it at the end of the bolt's threaded section 6. The condition of my old bushings wasn't nearly as bad as the one pictured on the tool fabrication website - kind of disappointing really 7. Installing the new bushings was a bit slower: The pusher component of the tool is sized (O.D.) to not hang up as it passes through the axel-mounted ears. That's great when it is pushing on the smaller end of the old bushing during removal. But in installation mode, the pusher acts on the larger end of the tapered bushing. During installation the going got to be tougher and slower than I liked with hand tools so I switched to the impact wrench, which worked great until I had about 1/4" left to go at which point the pusher managed to work its way into the new bushing. The O.D. of the pusher was slightly less than needed to maintain contact with the metal. There may be some variation among bushing providers in the wall thickness of the metal sleeve. If I had to do it again I think I would make a second pusher for installation that was larger than the bushing O.D. at the larger end. 8. Once the bushing is most of the way in, light tapping with a hammer around the rim was mildly successful with negligable deformation, but ultimately I was able to get the pusher to seat with enoug metal to metal contact to drive the last little bit. 9. Don't get in a hurry and crank down on the tool without putting the spacers between the ears. 10. Don't make fun of those who fail to heed #9 and bend one of the ears over a bit, resulting in lots of hammering, prying, and despair before getting back on track. 11. The spacers that keep the ears apart may not fit perfectly - snug, but removable - without some minor filing or grinding. It's nice to have tools on hand to handle this. 12. Don't hammer the spacers in too securely without thinking about how you would get them out. There are ways to wedge one in that makes it a bit difficult to get at with hammer or prybar. After some filing I had no more problems with stuck spacers. 13. (more may come to mind as I catch up on my sleep Joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=608045&rss=1 Tue, 25 Mar 2003 23:04 GMT for those of us who can't resist bringing extra parts home from the boneyard.... http://www.otherpower.com/bartmil.html http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=607413&rss=1 Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:46 GMT try reading through http://www.sonic.net/~zipzippy/volvo/chrysler%20ignition.html While it's not a comprehensive description, it gives a little insight into what the vacuum dampers are tryiing to do. From reading it myself, I'm not exactly clear if they are advocating removing the valves and plugging the line, or just removing the valves and running the vac line straight to the ICU. On my 83 with chrysler ign. I removed the valves after trying variety of things to reduce the pinging I was getting briefly at heavy throttle. I don't have any hot running problems in this configuration - for what it's worth. Joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=607410&rss=1 Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:43 GMT There is a coupler fitting available for standard grease guns to fit that hole. I got one from Mcmaster Carr (mcmastercarr.com) and did my hinges a few months ago. Seems like IPD had one in their catalogue not long ago too. The mcmaster part # is 1091K9 &#091Grease Gun Coupler For Flush Grease Fittings, 1/8" NPT Female Inlet $4.26 EA &#093 If you already have a needle attachment you could try that first, I didn't have a needle, so I got the one intended for this use. Joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=592028&rss=1 Thu, 20 Feb 2003 17:44 GMT This may be a silly question as you just had the system open and presumably put in new coolant, but how's your anti-freeze ratio? Slush in the system might look like a frozen thermostat. Joe http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=577300&rss=1 Wed, 22 Jan 2003 01:14 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/