http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=54 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:07 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:07 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I have a red 122s, but for the most part I'm now keeping it garaged outside of the city where I have space to work on it as well as a small wood/metal shop. Cheaper than tickets and dealing with drunken cretins who seem to have discovered the lower east side. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387530&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:06 GMT I see that you live in Philadelphia. I don't know if you park on the street, but here in Manhattan, I've come around to having an antenna that I can unscrew and leave in the car. ("these kids today") It works well, black corkscrew type about 1' tall, unobtrusive. Not period. I don't care. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387212&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:52 GMT I found these items on the VP site. Doesn't say who the manufacturer is. http://www.websitefolder.net/VPAUTOPARTS/art-2.asp?id=344 (MC) http://www.websitefolder.net/VPAUTOPARTS/art-2.asp?id=2773 (adapter ring + rod) http://www.websitefolder.net/VPAUTOPARTS/art-2.asp?id=2052 (seals-MC to reservoir) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386444&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:33 GMT Does anyone here know if the 1968 black plastic handles and escutcheons for the door are interchangeable with the pre '68 chromed metal handles? I came across a set and I want to try swapping them out for the originals on my '67. thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386394&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 05:39 GMT "Yes, the '67-on 1800 arms and the Panhard rod will bolt up." Most of my experience is with '67 arms, the ones with the pricey metalastic type bushings. I've never seen the '68 arms with what are sometimes referred to as the "butterfly" less expensive bushings. The arms appear to be the same. Are they? Can you use either bushing or are the arms bushing specific? Oh, and fabulous work on the Apple Farmers ride. I was checking their progress daily. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386323&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:06 GMT Do you have to use a longer actuating rod (by the thickness of the the adapter ring) and where do you get this? Looks like the ring is 1/2" thick - is there a stock available rod 1/2" longer than the one being replaced? Sorry to digress, but for those of us with this problem, finding all of the parts to either replace an existing dual MC or wanting to convert to same from single, having (sources for) all the parts beforehand is the only way (AMHIK). Maybe, as you've already gone through the process of sourcing the parts, I could ask you to help the rest of us put together a list of the new, stock, available parts which would comprise such a "kit", if it isn't too much trouble. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386279&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 20:24 GMT I know these are listed as being for Ate. http://frugalmechanic.com/auto-part/41202-ate-w0133-1643030-brake-reservoir-grommet Would they be different from other similar vintage and application dual MC reservoir seals? Do you have both MC samples to check? I ask as I came across this same problem when trying to rebuild a vertical mount dual MC to retrofit in a 67 122 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386269&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 19:22 GMT $26.79 from RockAuto seems like a deal if you have an adapter especially considering that the one with vertical mounting holes (part number 672825), actually available from CVI is $148.00US + shipping. http://www.cvi-automotive.se/webshop/?article=672825 I don't know if this was Wagner, Girling, FAG, Até but one would think that if Wagner, there's got to be a US source for a lot less. Maybe Eric knows. Although he seems to favor going through Volvo for most parts, he did affirm that there is a workaround (adapter ring) for using this non-Volvo sourced MC. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386251&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 16:14 GMT I was looking awhile back Check this series of posts: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1302215/120-130/later_mc_adapter_ring.html I just checked the Rock Auto link in the post by Joaquin at the very bottom, and it seems that they no longer carry it, from what I can tell. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386076&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 19:24 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385810&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 17:14 GMT Same thing happened here. I'll try calling you. too late tonight. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385723&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 02:57 GMT Pete Do you happen to know the part number for the 122 version of the cowl? I can't find it on the VP site. The earlier, non automatic cowl (pre'69) - the one without the cutout for the column mounted ignition switch. I have a virtually new '69 or later one which I can't use and am looking for a new earlier one - willing to trade. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385539&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:25 GMT Lift the blade back all the way from the windshield and see how much play there is at the pivot point. It may be that the arms themselves are worn and need to be replaced. That little bit of play magnifies out to quite a bit of movement at the end of the blade. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385483&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 05:39 GMT Dave I'm in Manhattan. Send me your email off list (mine's in my profile) and I'll contact you. thanks Danny http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385420&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 21:09 GMT This is for a much newer car. I can't use it myself, but if you find any more PV/122 parts you can't use, let me know. http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPageHistory=category&numSearchStartRecord=0&strParents=70,251,474,865&P_ID=4213&CAT_ID=865&V_ID=10650 Danny http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385384&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 17:22 GMT 1345 SEK = $196 $196 - VAT 25% = $148, mas o menos + shipping form SC a lot more than 'arn', but..... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385381&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 17:15 GMT VP Autoparts Inc. Tel: +1 843 760 0170 3225 Fortune Drive, STE B Fax: +1 843 760 0172 North Charleston, SC 29418-8476 VPInfo@Bellsouth.net USA http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385284&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 03:21 GMT cam marked on aft end, probably a "C" http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384759&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 20:59 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384367&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 23:34 GMT Hey Chris I feel your pain. Part of the problem is that the tiny pin you have to push in is so "#%&*!%#" close to the dash. With patience and brain to finger co-ordination you'll get it. I have sometimes resorted to using a tool - a dental tool has worked - you want something with a short right angle turn, right at the end. The task then is to locate the pin with your finger, and in blind 3D space remember where it is once you try and locate it with the right angle tool. You could also could use one of those small right angle screwdrivers instead of dental tool. Perseverance furthers. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383700&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 23:13 GMT http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLVO-P1800-1800-122-121-544-144-B18-Carb-Linkages_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19b780a941QQitemZ110452844865QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f100 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383567&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 04:15 GMT You don't say which year (early with the 2 small grommets hanging on pins, or the later with the large rubber doughnut encapsulating the center bearing). If the later, I'd think that'd be sufficient. You're keeping the smaller (than what would have been originally mated to the larger diameter drive shaft on an M46). If you wanted to go to the trouble of getting a later, larger diameter drive shaft and modify it so that you can use the larger flanges on the front, but maintain the smaller flange on the back to mate up with the differential, the support for that might be heavier - I don't know. It might be that a drive shaft out of a later 1800 might have a support that is a bolt-in to a 122 tunnel. Others may know. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383483&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 22:22 GMT Here's the link that I was looking for: this was done by 122_ Canadian. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1209596/120-130/new_inner_fenders.html I guess they're actually called "inner wings" It looks like he didn't have to remove the bumper or front center section (grills) I'm not real clear yet where to make the cut - right in the middle of the radius. There's a lip on the replacement part that I figure fits under what's left after cutting off the old inner wing/box section. Mine are both badly rusted out. Passenger fender barely hanging on at the rear. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383457&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 19:08 GMT Finally sourced a couple of new inner fenders for my 122. I also have 2 much better condition already red, used fenders and a better red nose. I have searched the archives and am unable to find what I recall was a fairly detailed account of someone doing this a few years back. Anyone out there remember this? Where did it go? What should I search for? I am looking to read up on this as much as possible before I start disassembly. Mostly concerned about first measuring various dimensions - once apart I lose that information. I have the use of a friend's wire machine. Any help, advice, tips, warnings, appreciated. a few questions: The new inner fenders need to be blasted and painted - what kind of paint is recommended. I'd like to paint the insides as well - pour it in and then drain? Where can I find seam sealer? thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383209&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 15:21 GMT http://www.tradera.com/Komplett-baddstodsats-till-Volvo-PV-auktion_100743684 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381481&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 17:28 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/