http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5373 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:14 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:14 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I'm not sure what your noise sounds like but I had a Saab 900 that had a rattle in the engine, and I was sure it was the timing chain. I was just about to start looking for a 240 to replace it, when I realized it was only a loose power steering pump bracket. Have you checked to make sure all the brackets are tight since changing the belts? The intake preheater on the exaust manifold can rattle when it rusts loose. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387260&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 02:55 GMT I have run those on my Virgos because I had some left over from a Saab 900. They worked fine, and would actually be better than the stock size for snow tires because they are a bit narrower. On a wagon they are actually closer to the stock size than the 195s. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387173&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:36 GMT Yes the well is made for a full size spare. I always use a full size spare. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386321&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00 GMT You should be able to get a used one pretty easily. If you can't find one on a Volvo I am pretty sure VW, BMW and Mercedes all used the same crank before powered ones became the norm. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385828&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:41 GMT Don't disconnect brake lines to change rotors. There is more than enough flex in the brake lines to move the calipers out of the way. Just make sure you support them. I hang them with a piece of wire. Most people don't replace the bolts. But if you are doing it by the book you are supposed to replace the bolts. The last OEM Volvo rotors I got from FCP groton came with new bolts. If for any reason you do have to open a brake line, such as to replace a flex line, block the brake pedal down about an inch before you do it. I use a winter snowbrush jammed between the seat and the pedal. This will airlock the system so no fluid will leak out. Once you have it back together open the bleeder screw (or screws) and unjam the pedal. Watch the bleeders and close them when fluid starts leaking out. You should not have to do any further bleeding. This gravity bleeding has worked for me as far back as the flex lines on all wheels. A lot of people seem to have problems getting air out of 240 brake lines so I always avoid getting air in in the first place. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385512&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 13:42 GMT Unscrew the lock knob Pull the trim ring off the inside door handle Remove 3 torx scews on arm rest twist the rear of the arm rest up and slide out the power window switches and then unplug Keep turning up the rear of the armrest until the front end releases Remove the 3 plastic clips on the pocket by tuning with a dime Push up on the pocket to release the top, then remove the top 2 screws. The speaker will come off with the door panel, so no need to remove Carefully pop all of the clips on the bottom and sides of the door panel. I use a thin paint scraper inserted between the panel and the door. Try to pry as close to the clips as possible, because it is very easy to rip the clips out of the cardboard. The bottom of clips will likely rip out because the door panel is often water damaged here. But this is not a big deal since the pocket holds the bottom on too. Once the bottom and sides are unclipped push the door panel up to release. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385508&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 13:25 GMT With the engine warm I would check the IAC by blocking off the IAC hose (I have done it carefully with vise grips). With the engine warm and the hose blocked the the engine should go to base idle which is around 700 rpm. If it does then your IAC is not working. If it doesn't you have to figure out why your base idle is off. The IAC will not work if your throttle switch misaligned. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385337&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 13:40 GMT The nice thing about 2.4 is that it is adaptive. So if you AMM output changes it will adjust and learn, or if you get pinging the Ez-k can modify the advance curves. But it's not worth rewiring a car for. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385160&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 19:37 GMT The kit I got came with 2 bolts and 1 anchor. I have 240 sedan with anchors installed too. You just pull out the plastic caps and screw the anchors in. You could probably use one from your xc70 if the bolt is the same. If I remember right the sedan one has a spacer so it clears the cardboard/carpet shelf. Without that it would jam into the carpet when you tightened it down. So the 240 wagon anchors would not work very well in a sedan because they have no spacer. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384314&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 19:39 GMT I have a 2 and 4 year old and have two seats in my car. As far as I know the tether is not optional. When the car seats are faced forward they are designed to be tethered. I did get the volvo kit for my wagon. My only complaint is that they charged me about 25 bucks for it. For a company so associated with safety, the anchors should be at cost or free. Another thing I have learned. If you are using the center lapbelt for your carseat, you need to put a clip on it. If you don't the belt will slip. Of course you need to put a clip on the shoulder belts too. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384287&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 17:40 GMT Are you sure your car is an 89? 89s usually have the ezk ignition and the computer should be behind the glovebox on the firewall. Plus I am pretty sure there is no wire going from the computer to the distributor on Ezk. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384178&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 21:41 GMT The rear door is pretty easy because you can get at the hinges with the door closed. I would keep the rear door closed. Open your front door and unbolt the hinges on the door side. Swing the hinges out of the way and pull on the handle while supporting the door. You should be able to lift it out. Install the new door the same way. Put it in the opening and engage the latch. Bolt the hinges on and then check alignment. It should be pretty close. The front door is a pain because you need to have the door open to get at the hinges. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383655&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 17:53 GMT Thanks I have looked at the tdi. It is a great car, but I am more worried about emissions than the cost of fuel. If you look at the CO2 emissions of the TDI vs a Prius the Prius puts out 33% less, or over 1000 kg less co2 per 20000 miles. The problem with diesel is that it puts out more carbon dioxide per gallon than gasoline does, so mpg is misleading. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383628&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 16:01 GMT Thanks. Thats probably what happened. The motor came out of a written off 940, so its quite likely the original cover was damaged. I have not looked for the stamp on the engine but it is definitely a turbo. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383626&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 15:53 GMT Hey they weren't that bad. We had one for 13 years. It only went to the junkyard because it rusted out. We never had any significant engine or fuel injection problems. It was the last of the B20s so Volvo had most of the bugs worked out of it. I would be more carful of a 76 because it was the first year of the B21. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383475&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 21:31 GMT I don't think I have seen a m46 or m47 gearbox that did not have the cutout for the CPS. My 93 has an m46 from a 1984 turbo. On gearboxes that came from non CPS cars there is a thin casting over the bellhousing cutout which you can bust out with a hammer. Not likely that your 90 will have a hole for the clutch cable. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383472&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 21:12 GMT Sounds like you have air in one circuit. If you are changing calipers you can do this without getting air into the system. Before you disconnect any lines block your brake pedal down about an inch. I use my winter snowbrush jammed between the seat and the pedal. This blocks the hole to the resevoir and vacuum locks the system. Then when you take off the caliper fluid won't leak out of the lines. Put your new caliper on and open the bleeder screw. Unblock the brake pedal and watch the bleeder until brake fluid starts to leak out. Once that happens your caliper should be free of air and you can close the bleeder. This works for front and rear calipers on a 240. You can even change flex lines this way, and not have to bleed. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383220&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 16:33 GMT I didn't even know there was a ECVVC in NS. When do you meet? So turbo+ just changes the waste gate control. I have a Saab APC waste gate contol sitting in a box somewhere. If I ever find time I might try to get that installed. I am a little surprised Volvo would have bothered with higher flow injectors, an intercooler, and oil squirters, and then only set the boost at 7 psi. The stock fuel system on my car is having no problem feeding it at this boost level. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383177&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 11:15 GMT Yeah I made the right choice. I have driven 240s since I was a teenager. I think this is number 5. But I will probably buy a Prius, or something like it, too. I just can't ignore the fact that is uses half the fuel my 240 does. I'll keep the 240 for family stuff. I have not heard of battery problems with the Prius. I thought there was a long warranty on the batteries. Most people that have them love them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383126&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 00:59 GMT Where is your windshield washer resevor? I can't find a spot for mine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383113&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 00:03 GMT Hi Bret. Thanks for the info. Whats turbo+? I am only familiar with the 240 turbos. The ones without an intercooler were about 7 psi, and the intercooled ones peaked at about 11. Since the 940s were intercooled I figured they would boost to 11 as well. I'm not too far from you. I'm near Peggys Cove http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383104&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 23:18 GMT Second warped head, blown head gasket, leaking oil, spewing coolant out exaust, hard starting, high mileage (190000 miles). I know thats not a lot for a B230 but this one was messed up. After trying to get it working right for the last 3 years I decided enough was enough. It was either an engine swap or buy a Prius. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383101&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 23:09 GMT Just wondering if reversed heater hoses would cause the heat to stay on all the time? Otherwise I guess the heater valve just happened to fail while the engines were being swapped. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383070&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 21:20 GMT No there is no adapter harness with the FCP kit. They come with a pigtailed plug for the h4 bulb. I did it on the cheap. I cut the actual bulbs of the old 9004 bulbs and soldered the h4 pigtails onto the pins in the plug part of the 9004 bulb. Then the 9004 plug fit right into the car harness. I was planning to get the Daniel Stern harness but I ended up being happy with the stock output. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383067&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 21:18 GMT I don't know what fd is either. That's why I am asking about it. I am just going by what's on the timing belt cover. I am guessing it is out of one of the last 940 turbos. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382952&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 12:36 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/