http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5322 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:31 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:31 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Don't put additional sound deadener in until you are positive you've solved the problem. Otherwise you may end up with another soggy, moldy mess. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387594&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:57 GMT Best way to find it is pull the carpet and underlayment and look for stains. Even leave the carpets out for a while and drive the car in the rain. May find it easiest that way. I have had leaks on the vertical seam between the floorboard and the inner fender. Also at the forward-most outside corners of the footwell. Also where the jacking outrigger is welded to the floorpan. -- '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387316&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 12:53 GMT Cast iron combination manifold, the version with the secondary butterflies (which have been removed and the holes blanked off). -- '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387314&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 12:48 GMT I recently heard of a different kind of penetrant that works better than PB Blaster. Haven't had an opportunity to try it on rusty bolts yet though. 50% ATF + 50% acetone. Supposedly it passed some kind of "scientific test" on rusty bolts. Could just be some internet myth - who knows. I have no idea how the overrider fastens, so maybe you can't get to the rusty part to use this concoction anyway! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387225&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:03 GMT The leaks are on the intake side, not exhaust so I doubt there is a collapsed muffler. I agree that they "should" work fine dry, but for some reason I just can't get them to seal. The gasket will be good for a few hundred miles and will then begin to leak. So I wouldn't describe it as "blowing out". What is silver frost? Is that like anti-sieze? -- '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387207&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:39 GMT I don't ever use RTV on gasket surfaces on B20s, but I am dealing with a stubborn intake / exhaust gasket on my daily driver. I'm on the second gasket, and cannot get the intake to seal. Both surfaces are clean and the intake was trued up by a reputable machine shop. Have the correct washers, the intake / exhaust surfaces where the washers go are even. Nuts were all torqued evenly to 18 ft-lbs. Even tried up to 25 ft-lbs. I suspect the gasket material is a different composition than that used many years ago and just does not squish like days of old. At any rate, since I cannot get the gasket to seal I'm going to (begrudgingly) use RTV. I was going to use Permatex Black, but the Permatex Copper says it's more flexible - little confusing. I think the Copper may be the way to go. I know this has been covered many times, but since I never used RTV in the past, I usually didn't pay attention to others suggestions...shame on me! So now it's my turn. Any thoughts on the Black vs. Copper? (I think the Blue will not stand up to the temperatures of the exhaust manifold.) Thanks. -- '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387100&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:15 GMT ARGH! It's not a "hot" water heater! It's a water heater. Sorry, another of my many pet peeves. Whew, I feel better! http://www.brickboard.com/OPINIONS/?id=1386798&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:41 GMT You will likely have to grind out the slots in the cover to accept the oversized roll pin. -- '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386635&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 12:48 GMT This is how I rebuilt mine. It has worked well for years. Sorry, can't upload the image. Check the Technical section of the Picture Gallery for how I repaired mine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386575&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 02:09 GMT Very nice. How thick was it? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386413&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 11:34 GMT I think that very late (1969 & 1970 not imported to the US) 122s used the same master cylinder and booster as 140 series. Thus a horizontal alignment of the mount. There was a picture posted in the gallery years ago of it. Can't find it now though. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386242&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 15:46 GMT This probably won't help, but what appears to be the brand of the keys for my '68 122 are as follows; Ignition: NEIMAN Doors: UNION Both are the keys that came from the factory. Unfortunately, no stock number shows up on either key. Kind of neat that each key has the "cut" number stamped into them though. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386031&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:13 GMT Hardware store nuts will be fine. Not sure what the size is, but now I remember the same situation - it's not a big deal. Try to get nylon insert locknuts if available. If not, use conventional lock washers. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385923&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:35 GMT Nice going! Good point about the starter terminal, but I think you are referring to the left mount. -- '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385760&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:12 GMT "Is it worth it in terms of Fuel economy?" Based only on fuel economy, probably not. Don't expect to pick up much more than 10-15% or so on the highway. Around town, it won't make any difference. "Is it that much easier on the engine because of reduced RPM's?" Like the above, if anything, only on the highway. Easier on the engine, I guess somewhat, but redblocks can easily spin all day at 5000 rpm. Odds are pretty good you won't be doing that with OD or not. "So whats the general feeling among all you guys who have much more experiance than I do??" If you can pick up a working OD with driveshaft and crossmember for a couple hundred bucks, do it. You will not regret it. If you find one that needs work, don't be surprised to spend many hundreds of dollars in repairs if you cannot do the work yourself. If you can do the work, it will be just hundreds! The overall driving experience with OD is more rewarding on long hauls at highway speeds. Don't expect the car to be as quiet as a modern car though. It will be better and more relaxing on the driver and passengers than with the 4 speed. If you are rarely above 50 mph don't bother with the OD gearbox. -- '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385758&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:06 GMT Why can't you use butyl? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385440&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 00:31 GMT No "gotchas". It's very simple and straightforward. I'd say pull the exisitng one and try to match it with something - maybe a place like Radio Shack would have something close. Hell, even a junkyard speaker would likely work. Or you could just listen to those SUs sing (preferred!). -- '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385380&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 17:12 GMT Sorry to butt in, but what's the Volvo Challenge? I can remember that from years ago at Watkins Glen & Elkhart Lake. Is this the same type of event? Where? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385036&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 01:51 GMT If you're somewhat handy, try it yourself. Phil S. wrote a great article in vclassics of how to do a rebuild. It inspired me, and I have a few rebuilds under my belt now. It really was not as intimidating as you may think. Did both a D-type and a J-type. If you choose not to do it yourself, in addition to OD Guru, there is Quantum Mechanics in CT. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384972&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 22:03 GMT Good point about the radiator hoses. If I were doing it how you describe, and choose not to remove the hoses, I would unbolt the radiator and let it move with the engine. I would also be careful of the carb linkage when jacking it up 2 inches. I guess I wasn't really clear in my post. When I have changed the mounts I have removed the nut on the bottom of the mount (through the crossmember); jacked the engine slightly (to take the weight off); and then removed the bolts that fasten the bracket to the engine. I'd then pull the mount and bracket out as one piece and change the mount on the bench. I just found it easier to do it this way instead of working only with the mount. Opened things up in there to clean a bit too. IIRC, I placed a 2x4 on end between the crank pulley and oil pan and then jacked from there. Lifting on the front of the oil pan. I didn't have to lift it much though. Sorry if this makes things even more confusing! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384589&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 23:35 GMT I'd also use the 164 mounts for both the engine and gearbox on 122 and 140s. For me, they have held up better over the years than the standard mounts. And mine have been oil soaked on occasion as well. I found it easier to keep all the nuts loose until you have both sides replaced. Kind of gives you more play to giggle the engine around to line the mounts up. As an aside, I've also used the 164 mounts on my '86 745 Turbo. They seem to be holding up better than other aftermarket 740 mounts. Only been on there for about a year though on the 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384437&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 12:25 GMT Sounds like you have it right. You should be able to click on the envelope icon next to the poster's name. The reason that email info. within the ad is discouraged is to thwart spam. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384381&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 01:08 GMT Yes I've done this to a B20 that I aquired that had quite a bit of sludge buildup on the valvetrain. But not in the ratio that you quoted. I was a pint low on the crankcase oil and topped it up with a pint of ATF for the last 500 miles before the next oil change. Did it twice and it did work to clean things up pretty well. - HOWEVER - I would not use 1:1 as you suggest. I think that would be the death knell of the engine. Regardless, I would only do it on an engine that already had a questionable amount of sludge that needed cleaning. And when I did it I was already resolved to the fact that I may have to rebuild it afterwards anyway. But didn't have to in the end. -- '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384278&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 17:13 GMT Maybe this photo will help too. Look in the technical section of the photo gallery. I cannot get the photo to load into this post. Sorry, I tried! Oh yea, be careful with the one on eBay, I think that may be for a 140 series. Just double check though, I may be wrong. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383708&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 23:50 GMT Strange, I still can't get to your photo. Anyway, tonight I'll take a pic. of the linkage on my '68. May even have some odds and ends parts lying around. -- '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383598&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 12:43 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/