http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5257 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 06:09 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 06:09 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. "The last rear pads I ordered didn't." Uh, then I guess not. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382826&rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 22:15 GMT You will have to isolate whether the problem exists in spark delivery, fuel delivery, or compression. Not hearing a compression leak past the spark plugs you can pretty much rule that out. Since it started and ran fine you eliminated the concern about getting the wires mixed up on the cap and that means the firing order is correct. I think it's unlikely that both spark and fuel are missing from the equation at the very same your car doesn't start - it's gonna be one or the other and should only take a few minutes to figure out which. Go from there. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381201&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 09:54 GMT Can you define 'don't seem to have'? What are the symptoms you are experiencing with the braking system? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378863&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 02:45 GMT The drop in RPM and stalling when turning or stopping sounds like a throttle body. Three nuts, undo the kick down cable, and the accordian hose and use carb cleaner and a toothbrush (wifes works good and sometimes they won't even know), also clean the I.D. of the 2 brass fittings with carb cleaner and some picture hanging wire. You may not have to have a new gasket if you are gentle when removing the body. Don't spray cleaner onto or into the sensor. I would imagine you'll have a better idle and no longer have the stall. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377719&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 23:51 GMT AC, coincident with your signon initials - the AC has to work before the windows will defog. If you crack the windows slightly on your ride to work the air moving in the cabin will help not fog you up worse. Cold morning breath towards the windshield will fog that thing up. Keep some air circulating. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377716&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 23:45 GMT Replacing just the lens is easy. Make sure you completely clean the 'track' of all old sealant then apply clear RTV for the re-assembly part and you're good to go. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377090&rss=1 Sun, 4 Oct 2009 12:12 GMT They pop out easily with a little prying from a flat blade screwdriver. As I remember they have 2 legs on each side - (4 legs total). Just gently pry on either side and the legs release from their catch. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374050&rss=1 Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:59 GMT One hurdle removed. Happy driving. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372308&rss=1 Mon, 14 Sep 2009 18:05 GMT George, in one of your other posts you replied to me that you cannot break the upstream connection to the fuel rail. I don't know why you can't because it's just a joint held together with a nut that you can unscrew. Unless you can confirm spark, compression, and fuel you won't solve the problem. Generally, residual pressure in the fuel line will allow a dead pump car to start then die quickly and no restart for a few hours. You've got to have fuel being pumped into the rail for continous running of the engine. Start with the easy stuff - spark and fuel - then move forward to the more in depth. Uncrack the fuel line and see if the pump spurts when the engine is cranked. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372259&rss=1 Mon, 14 Sep 2009 13:01 GMT To see if you are getting fuel to the common rail disconnect the fuel line (hold it into a coffee can or such) and have someone else crank the engine. You'll quickly see if the main pump is working. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372158&rss=1 Mon, 14 Sep 2009 01:05 GMT You can still buy the switches - they are for the 260 models. I bought my '88 new and had power windows installed at the dealer and the front switches are in the dash and the rear switches are on a tower inbetween the 2 front seats (like over the ash tray for the back seat folks) I just replaced all 4 of mine a year or so ago - I don't know if I have one of the old ones around or not but can check. Call a Volvo Dealer and have them check the parts manual. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367456&rss=1 Fri, 21 Aug 2009 22:49 GMT Passing along info for what it's worth. I work for an engine manufacturer and we machine our own cylinder heads, although these are 6 cyl diesels. Combusion face flatness is spec'd at .002" in any 2" area (50 microns / 50mm) in other words if you could put an indicator thru a hockey puck and tram it around the combustion face we allow a .002 deviation anywhere on the surface - high or low. Overall flatness, different from local flatness, is spec'd at .010". A little harder to measure in the shop, but basically if you had a flat surface to lay the head (combustion face down) you could slide feeler gages between the head and the flat surface to determine overall flatness. If a .010" feeler gage didn't go the head meets spec. So, .004 to .006 on a head I owned with no known overheating problems that caused the head gasket problem would not send me to the machine shop. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364638&rss=1 Sat, 8 Aug 2009 10:31 GMT Not mine, don't know who it is, but one owner and rust free with 176K could be a good deal for someone. http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1284471394.html http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364636&rss=1 Sat, 8 Aug 2009 09:56 GMT Was there a defining moment when the '88 went from OK to sluggish? I'm remembering a timing belt change on my '88 that caused it to have marked unresponsiveness. I lived with it until the next belt change and presto, it was back to life again. Previous belt must have been off time a bit. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363837&rss=1 Tue, 4 Aug 2009 09:59 GMT So, how do you figure out when it's time to have someone else change your oil? Just do the same. Otherwise, start estimating your normal daily trips, or put yourself on a timed schedule like every 3 months or every 6 months - just make it a regularly scheduled event. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356490&rss=1 Thu, 25 Jun 2009 09:55 GMT Fluid probably low. But you can start and then put the car in Neutral while you fasten your seat belt. Gives the transmission fluid time to move thru the converter and eliminates the sluggishness you felt. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352955&rss=1 Mon, 8 Jun 2009 10:03 GMT I wouldn't believe a new engine is needed. If either of the valves in any cylinder are leaking, i.e., compression loss, you can't remove the valve cover and see anything usefull. Only if the valve train isn't working the valves open and closed, as in the case of a broken valve spring or bent valve, would you be able to see. You need to run the compression check and / or take the truck to another shop for a second opinion. The black smoke wouldn't be piston ring related as it's most likely unburnt fuel in the cylinder causing the black smoke. Rings or valve seals, either one, would smoke blue. So, the black smoke and the other issue may be related only remotely and that's if the truck has a high pressure constant injection system that would allow fuel to leak down past the intake valves into the cylinders then not get burnt when the cylinder lights due to bad valve(s). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1348468&rss=1 Tue, 12 May 2009 10:07 GMT Sweet - looks like an excellent find. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1348069&rss=1 Sat, 9 May 2009 11:29 GMT New lenses went on my '88 almost a year ago. The job took about an hour total and I let the sealant dry overnight before re-installation. Lenses cost about $53.00 (if I remember correctly) and the job was easy. I've always lived in southern US so there isn't the corrosion to deal with that others have - all in all I'd recommend new lenses if you can get the assembly out easily. The old plastic lenses come right off using a small putty knife as a pry tool. Then you remove all of the old sealant from the groove in the assembly so that the new lens bead snugs right down in the groove. Once you are sure of a good nesting remove the new test fitted lens and apply sealant inside the assembly groove and push the new lens into place. I used some small spring clamps to hold the new lenses tight while drying. Note: I was careful not to touch, clean, or otherwise upset the reflective inside of the light assembly as everyone advises this stuff is very fragile. Job came out just fine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1347116&rss=1 Sun, 3 May 2009 12:29 GMT I believe you have to disconnect the fuel line (up at the common rail is easiest) to really check the pump operation - I say that because if there is pressure already in the line the pump won't run because there is nowhere for the fuel to go, e.g., the line is full. I paid $149.31 total (free shipping) from Auto Parts Warehouse for a Bosch pump and Filter. By calling them I got a 10% discount(?). Their pump p/n is W0133-1603797 and filter p/n W0133-1634556. (Hey, tell 'em to copy order reference # 7406124 to see if they'll match the price) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344681&rss=1 Sun, 19 Apr 2009 12:21 GMT I believe you have to disconnect the fuel line (up at the common rail is easiest) to really check the pump operation - I say that because if there is pressure already in the line the pump won't run because there is nowhere for the fuel to go, e.g., the line is full. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344680&rss=1 Sun, 19 Apr 2009 12:20 GMT Disconnect the fuel line at the common rail and let the fuel feed line hang into a catch bucket and have someone crank the engine so you can see if you are getting fuel from the pump. The start and instant dying condition could just be residual pressure in the common rail feeding the injectors - just enough for a start and die. My main pump went recently and getting zero fuel when cranking was proof. I verified further by running a positive side jumper cable from the battery and a ground onto the dome light push button at the driver door and plugged terminals into the fuel pump posts - mine didn't run at all with straight voltage so I knew it was bad. (This method actually gets you down under the car right at the pump so you'll know right away because you are holding the terminals) Piece of advice - if you have to remove the main pump and you will be replacing the filter do so by removing the entire carrier from under the car and reassembly everything on a workbench. Torque the nut to the new fuel filter to 30nm (about 22 ft lbs) - mine leaked like crazy because I didn't torque it before installation - just gave it a good tug at first. Note: you probably don't have to replace the fuel filter, but if you want to, I'm just saying. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344625&rss=1 Sat, 18 Apr 2009 23:10 GMT Mine just went thru a shutdown back on March 2 and like you I posted and got some good advice. Here's what I did in order to eventually determine my pump was locked up. 1. Verify 25 amp fuse is good 2. Verify 8 amp fuse for main fuel pump is good. (probably ok but easy check) 3. Either resolder the fuel pump relay per instructions found in abundance here or borrow one to test your vehicle. 4. Open oil fill cap and have someone crank while you make sure the cam is turning to rule out broken timing belt. 5. Disconnect the fuel line to the common fuel rail and have someone crank the engine while you hold the fuel line in a bucket - you are testing whether you are actually getting fuel from the main fuel pump with this test. 6. Remove fuse 4 and 6 and put a jumper across the left side terminals and see if you get fuel out of the hose you disconnected above. 7. Lower fuel pump carrier and disconnect the yellow and the black terminals from the main fuel pump - Run a jumper cable from the positive side of the battery and a ground attached to the driver side dome light switch to supply direct voltage to the pump to determine if it's locked up. 8. Pull the entire carrier from the undercarriage of the car and replace fuel pump (and $10 filter if you want) 9. Torque the inlet bolt to the filter from the pump to 25 ft lbs to ensure no pressure leak when you get it back together (ask me how I know this). 10 Start it up and drive away happily. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1341743&rss=1 Sat, 4 Apr 2009 01:53 GMT Copper washer? The banjo fitting, the one connected to the short fuel hose between the pump and the filter, did not have a copper washer. The outlet side did though and it's ok as is (no leak). Frustrated and out of time due to another committment that evening I let the car down after seeing that I can most likely remove the 2 forward bolts and let the carrier hang, then go over the passenger side and hold the filter with an adjustable wrench, on the formed hex head of the filter, and another on the banjo nut and tighten down. BTW - since I work at an engine assembly plant I asked around about banjo nut torquing on our engines and found that we torque to 24nm. However, we don't have banjo nuts on similar connections as they always are direct into a cast iron cylinder head or into an aluminum bracket where a filter screws onto. (Imagine where our oil filter screws onto and have a banjo fitting on the side of that). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1340161&rss=1 Thu, 26 Mar 2009 10:06 GMT I just put on a new fuel pump and filter. The inlet side of the filter is now spraying fuel and I feel it's because I didn't tighten it enough. Two trips under the car, jacking it up and letting it down is enough. Next time under I want to be right. If you have a manual will you post the torque requirement for the banjo fitting? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1339950&rss=1 Wed, 25 Mar 2009 09:57 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/