http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5248 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:41 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:41 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I know a bad rubber seat, but how can you tell if the strut mount is bad? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1385811&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 17:14 GMT anyone try using monroe struts? they are about half the price of Bilstein. Are they half he quality? I see them on shockwarehouse.com and wouldn't mind saving the cash on this. I'm not looking for any special handling, just want my 98 S70 to be safe and stable. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1384657&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 13:46 GMT OK, just to confirm. Front struts and seats (not the mounts though) Rear shocks and mounts (not the seats though) Want to make sure I have my terminology and parts right... Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1384644&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 06:47 GMT So struts and spring seats? What about the mounts...are they a non-wear item? Are there spring seats for the rears too? I am guessing the spring seats are the rubber items? Also, if the struts aren't leaking...why replace them? I have done the pushing on each corner of the care and it returns to level without bouncing...doesn't that mean the shocks and struts are fine? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1384476&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 15:46 GMT I have a 98 S70 N.A. with 280K miles. My struts are either original or were before it hit 100k (when I bought it). The don't seem to be blown, maybe a very slight leak of fluid out of one of them. And I don't seem to have any issues with the spring seat clunking. I am about to replace the worn control arms and end links and since I will have to get an alignment, should I seriously consider replacing the struts and the spring seats? or will they likely last a while still? Also, what should I replace with the struts? the spring seats and the mounts? anything else? seems like a lot of different parts that are called different things depending on who is talking. thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1384305&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 19:01 GMT or, can I reuse the existin seal and will it work as long as I have cleaned up the metal and reglue? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1378857&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 02:16 GMT Ok, sounds like a plan. I can take it apart and clean it up and put it back on...any idea on where to get the rubber weather strip? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1378837&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 00:39 GMT Both lines are draining...I checked by pouring water down them. I know the seal between the body and sunroof is supposed to let some water through and drain. My issue is the seal between the glass and the seal. Water is getting past that and it has no place to go except inside the cabin. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1378718&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 12:40 GMT The sunroof in my 98 S70 is leaking. Water is coming in through the seal that is attached to the glass. I am assuming you can replace the weatherstrip that is attached to the glass? I can't see anything on FCP Groton or Eeuroparts. Anybody know where to get one, or how to resolve this? thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1378683&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 02:24 GMT Its not common with these engines in general. The exception is Turbos where the oil has not been changed properly. I generally use dino oil in my N.A. engine, but if I had a turbo I would most likely use a full synthetic for the heat protection. Turbo's can be brutal on oil. Try running some Mobil M1, it seems to clean exceptionally well. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357363&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 11:25 GMT Well, I meant the front of the car. That was a great link, thanks for posting. Everything is hooked up right with the oil separater. It looks like the angle hose that goes to the block is leaking oil. It is the short one. Not sure why since I have a hose clamp on it and it was new when I replaced it a couple months ago. I may have to take the manifold off again to fix it. Should there be oil passing through that short hose though? I thought it was exhaust gases. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1337381&rss=1 Fri, 13 Mar 2009 02:00 GMT I have a 98 S70 N.A. that recently had its RMS and breather/pvc all replaced about a month ago. I just noticed that there is a new leak underneath. It looks like it is wet on the front of the engine above the oilpan and goes downa and soaks the oilpan. When I replaced the breather, I used new tubes to attach it to the block. Could something there be leaking? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1337288&rss=1 Thu, 12 Mar 2009 17:46 GMT Thanks for the post. It's dead. I had done the drill a hole thing about a year or so ago. It died a slow painful death. I'm wondering what triggers the code? The pump turning on or a reading at the O2 sensor? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1335723&rss=1 Thu, 5 Mar 2009 17:40 GMT The airpump is gone on my 98 S70 N.A. I really don't want to shell out the $$ to replace given it serves very little purpose. I recall reading/hearing about a way to eliminate it and avoid the ECM throwing codes. I couldn't find anything when I did the brickboard search. I recall that if you use an O2 eliminator (a capacitor/resisters setup) you can do this. Would the 02 eliminator go in place of the pump? or the secondary O2 sensor. I think the secondary O2 sensor only measures emissions and does nothing to adjust mixture...but not sure. Anyone done this or had success? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1335482&rss=1 Wed, 4 Mar 2009 14:22 GMT Don't use atf. Your model calls for Pentosin CHF11S. It is a fully synthetic PS fluid and quite expensive. Like $20/liter. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1334239&rss=1 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 18:24 GMT It depends on which additive...do you know what it is? Most of them are snake oil, but there are very good products like Auto-RX. They are designed to slowly remove sludge and varnish from the engine. There are other additives that thicken the oil so that it won't burn easily when the rings are shot. Those are probably more damaging to your engine than anything else. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1332990&rss=1 Fri, 20 Feb 2009 03:25 GMT I do mine with conventional oil at 6K or a little over. I have 255K on my engine and it runs great. I recently did a test on my oil and sent it in to www.blackstone-labs.com at 6500 miles. They gave me the report letting me know that the oil was nearing the end of its life, but still good and that the condition of the engine was good. The only people perpetuating the 3k oil change myth are the oil companies and the parts/service people doing the changes. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1329329&rss=1 Mon, 2 Feb 2009 01:27 GMT I wound up changing my oil last night just because I wasn't sure what the shop used to top it off when they did the RMS, they didn't do an oil change. I noticed that crankcase gases were coming out of where the oil trap is on the intake bellows. Turns out it wasn't locked in well, so I had a major leak of gases there. Not sure if that could cause which gunk or not, but we'll see. At least the smell should be gone. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1328346&rss=1 Wed, 28 Jan 2009 13:28 GMT also forgot to mention that I drive over an hour each way to work every day, all highway driving, so it isn't a short trip issue. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1328159&rss=1 Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:42 GMT 255K on my 98 S70 Driver side axle RMS (just this month) Oil Separator front wheel bearings timing belt/water pump/tensioner (4 belts) brakes/rotors many times end links control arms cap/rotor wires plugs several times Upper motor mount all the filters tranny fluid at 30K religiously Still runs like new. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1328150&rss=1 Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:27 GMT I developed a bad oil leak in my rear main seal. I tried replacing the oil separater and associated hoses. I was pretty careful about cleaning everything out and making sure nothing was plugged up. The RMS was just as bad. I had the RMS replaced at an Volvo Indie and they seemed to do a good job. I checked my oil and noticed there was cream colored white stuff on the dipstick. I have never seen that before ever on this car. Plus I kind of smell a mix of either burnt oil or exhaust since the RMS was done. There are no leaks at all now. I am wondering if the cream colored crud is due to the very cold weather in the Northeast that we are experiencing and the fact that I left my car outside every night for a week because my garage was a mess. I've done that before also and never seen the crud. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1328141&rss=1 Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:12 GMT Just got done with replacing the oil separator and cleaning out the tubes or replacing them. at 250K, it wasn't as bad as I thought. Nothing was completely plugged up, though the lines were gunked and coked pretty bad. We'll see if that solves my oil leak problem, but I'm not hopeful as I already see a few drops under the car...though that could be from all the oil that leaked out already. I did start the car up and let it warm up. I didn't feel any pressure out the dipstick tube, but there wasn't a vacuum there either. Is that normal? BTW, thanks for the tips! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1323927&rss=1 Wed, 7 Jan 2009 21:17 GMT Well that makes sense. Is there something not functioning right? or is this normal? I have another 98 S70 and can fill it till it spills out and not have an issue. Is there a valve or something that prevents this from happening? thanks for your response BTW. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1323612&rss=1 Tue, 6 Jan 2009 04:09 GMT My 98 S70 N.A. starts and runs great normally. But every time I fillup with gas, when I start the car again, it starts and immediately dies. The only way to get it going again is if I try to start it while having the pedal floored. Then it won't hold the idle without stalling for a minute or two, then it is fine again. I get a check engine code saying that I have various cylinder misfires. I also keep getting the P0440 code for evap system leak, but i have been getting that for along time (long before the starting issue)and can't figure it out. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1323446&rss=1 Mon, 5 Jan 2009 18:23 GMT Yeah, good idea. It just started leaking oil and I checked to see if there is a vacuum while warm and running at the dipstick. I pulled it out and it was pushing air out the dipstick tube. Tells me the PCV and or tubes going to/from it are plugged. I removed the oil trap about 150K ago (it's and N.A.). I am going to pull it apart and replace the separator and tubes/elbows as soon as the parts come in. I am hoping that I didn't blow my rear main seal. I just hit 250K with it too! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1323087&rss=1 Sat, 3 Jan 2009 18:48 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/