http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5193 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:07 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:07 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I would recommend that you make sure the tranny fluid looks good (reddish - not brown/burnt) as 850 auto trannys don't have a filter and need to be flushed. Brown fluid could indicate major transmission work in the cars near future. Also note that the timing belt should be replaced every 75K. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling:-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387556&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:18 GMT Just replaced the struts, mounts, and spring seat rubber on my 99 S70. Like you I didn't want to pay the Bilstein HD ($165 each) price. Ended up going to FCP Groton and picked up the Bilstein touring struts($120 each) for slightly more than the Sachs OEM struts($105 each). With 25K on these struts now I have no complaints - they feel pretty firm and provide a confortable highway ride. Seem like a good strut overall. Good luck, Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling:-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1385336&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 13:10 GMT For $60 you can buy an OBD II scanner on ebay and read/reset your own codes. Really easy to use and codes available on line. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling:-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1382018&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 16:41 GMT I agree that the white smoke is probably coolant. Could be a head gasket let go, with no head or engine damage, but that's a roll of the dice. You might get lucky and have a "cheaper" repair, but if you buy this one don't go in expecting to replace the engine and feel better if you get in fixed cheaper. If I were looking at this one I would offer the owner about half what he is asking. Good luck, Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling:-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1381992&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 15:10 GMT Does the ABS light come on when you turn on the ignition switch? If not the bulb may be burned out - dash bulb failure is rather common. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling:-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1380502&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:26 GMT I agree. Klaus you seem to always have the right answer. I am really surprised though that you are not a professional tech. Your posts are always well researched and easy to follow, and I enjoy reading your responses. Keep'em running and keep on posting. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) 64 112S 66 1800S 81 245DL 85 245DL 96 850GLT 99 S70AWD http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1377817&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 12:21 GMT I can also recommend Victor Rocha as he has done an ABS module for me. Directions to remove and install were easy to follow and car operates normally without ABS unit, except speedo does not work. Unit looked and worked great when re-installed. Great service and quick turnaround. Good Luck, Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1377319&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 14:10 GMT Don't rule out a coolant leak. I had a head gasket go out once upon a time, and it acted very simular to your situation. Smoke was white in color, and would only happen at start up, and then after idle a while. Head gasket had a very small gap that allowed small amounts of coolant into a cylinder. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1376722&rss=1 Fri, 2 Oct 2009 17:01 GMT Hello all. Having a new issue with the 99 S70 AWD Turbo. On three separate occasions now, after start up the interior lights will not turn off and the doors will not remained locked. On all three occasions I have resolved the issue by turning off the car, locking the car with the remote, then unlocked the car with the remote and operating the car as normal. Question is whether this could be a symptom of a faulty ignition switch. I know mine is starting to act up, but I have not seen these issues with a faulty ignition switch in the past. Thank you in advance. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1376173&rss=1 Wed, 30 Sep 2009 12:07 GMT Here are some techniques from CarSpace to try when your CD gets stuck in your car CD player. Precautions: These tricks are focused mainly on single disc CD players but they may work on your multi-disk changer. Usual disclaimers - attempting repairs can ruin your player. If your car is under warranty, take it to the dealer. If you have any qualms about trying any of these techniques, let a dealer or audio shop tackle the project instead. Tips and Tricks: ◊ Figure out what fuse controls the CD player and, with no key in the ignition, pull the fuse out for a minute (or more - I've seen TSBs that say leave the fuse out for 10 minutes), then replace it (theory being that the fuse acts as a reset button). If you cannot find the fuse, you can disconnect the negative battery cable, but you'll lose your radio presets and other settings. Make sure you have any codes for your radio that may be required since disconnecting the battery cables can cause the radio to quit working too. This fuse trick seems to have the greatest chance of success overall. Check your owner's manual - you may have more than one fuse that controls the CD and/or the radio and you may need to remove all the related fuses. (There's a "risky" variation of this tip described in the Multiple (6-disk, etc.) Systems section of the guide for attempting to fix a CD changer) ◊ Turn your ignition on to the accessory position. Hold the eject button down for 2 or 3 minutes. Depending on your make/model, the eject button may flash. When the button stops flashing (or when a few minutes has passed), release the button and immediately press it again (theory being that the two minutes of "work" followed by a quick break will fool the player into releasing the disc when you press the eject button again). ◊ Try using some tweezers, needle nose pliers or hemostats (every tool kit needs a hemostat or two!) to pull the CD out while pressing the eject button with power going to the player (theory being that the disc is so slick the player can't eject it without help). Some people report success just by pulling the disc out with the tweezers without power to the player and without pressing the eject button. ◊ If your player has a small hole in the front of it, like most personal computer CD players do, straighten a paperclip and push the clip straight into the hole to manually release the catch. Some players have a groove under the CD door instead of a hole. Look for a hole about the size of the paperclip and don't mistake an emergency release hole for an earphone jack. ◊ Some players, especially aftermarket ones, use a CD cartridge or magazine. Tapping on the cartridge while pressing the eject button sometimes ejects stuck discs. CarSpace member Alwaysfords2 has been able to remove stuck CD magazines by using a piece of shim stock or a hack saw blade and going alongside one of the long sides of the magazine to hit the release. You can rock the magazine a little bit in the slot to see the mechanism and it should be easy to release - sort of like using the little pin hole on a CD drive, the magazine pops up as soon as it is freed. ◊ Remove the faceplace from your player (be gentle; something like a butter knife often works without damaging the bezel or breaking tabs). Then look for a tiny, usually recessed little button that you can press. You may need that unbent paperclip to reach the button. ◊ Find a coaster in your junk drawer - by coaster, I mean an old CD that doesn't work. Or use a blank one if that's all you have. Insert the coaster about an inch into the slot (yes, on top of the stuck CD). Then turn the ignition on and hold the eject button and wiggle the CD around. Don't be hamfisted - you're just trying to give the player some traction to help it eject the stuck one. If this fails, then try slipping the edge of the coaster (or something even thinner) under the stuck CD and pry it up while pressing the eject button. Again, be gentle - you don't want to ruin the player when a pro may be able to remove the unit and free the disc for $20 or so. ◊ Find a Popsicle stick or something thin but rigid and tear off a few inches of Scotch Tape from that roll you keep in your junk drawer (next to all those ruined CDs you intend to make Christmas ornaments out of some day). Put the tape on the top of the stuck CD using the thin stick to help attach the tape firmly to the disk. Like the hint above, the idea is to lift the CD enough to enable the player to eject it. ◊ At least one CarSpace member had success releasing a stuck CD by, ahem, banging on top of the dashboard! ◊ Foreign objects stuck into the player, or CDs that miss the slot entirely yet wind up inside the unit usually require pulling the CD player to remove the disc. Good Luck Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1363152&rss=1 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:31 GMT Very strange. I have never owned a Volvo newer than my current 1999 S70, but both the 850 and S70 have always required a four digit code after power loss to make the radio power back up. If the radio is working, sounds like the CD is jammed. Will the CD player play at all? Don't understand why this happened at the same time as the battery swap.... Have you ever removed the radio from a Volvo? Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1363149&rss=1 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:13 GMT Don't want to over simplify this but after you changed the battery, did you put in the radio code (normally 4 digits) to reactivate the unit? Does the radio work at all, or is it just the CD player that is not working? Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling:-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1363095&rss=1 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 13:05 GMT Klaus, As usual thank you for the response. Based on the check ditig (7) this sudan does have the Nivomats. I get the same response when I go to the local Volvo dealer and tell them it is the AWD S70 out front - they always come back in and say they don't see a wagon anywhere. I don't know how many 99 AWD S70's were made but I am guessing it was not many. At this point I will change the struts (bilstein) and stut mounts. At 144K it is time. If I have ride or tire wear issues after the front end, then I will take a look at the rear. Also wanted to pass along that I removed the rear drive shaft last week and the issues turning hard left and right completely disappeared. That indicates a bad VC, which I am not sure I want to replace at this point. Erie has life time replacements for $300, so it might be in the cards later. Thank you again Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1362903&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 11:53 GMT Great job! Looks fantastic! Was this B23 mated to the orginal M40/41 transmission? What installation issues did you run into?(Any metal cutting) Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362781&rss=1 Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:21 GMT I won't say it's a steal, but if the maintenance can be verified and service has been performed by a reputable mechanic then you might have a good deal on your hands. Remember that Volvo's like their maintenance and it is normally not "cheap", so verify the service history. Other posters may have additional things to look for, but I would certainly check the tranny fluid for color and smell. Since these cars have no filter in the transmission, flushing the fluid on a regular basis is a must. If the fluid is dark brown or smells burnt there could be expensive repairs ahead. These are excellent cars, and if maintained will provide many miles of enjoyable driving. Good luck Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1362771&rss=1 Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:29 GMT Don't know of a permanent fix, but on my 86 850GLT I would remove the affected arm and place the attachment end in a bench vise. With a pretty good push bend it back to the original position. Be careful to not over do it. Reason for removal was the first time I did not remove the drivers arm and the windshield cracked when I pushed on it.... Don't know how many times you can do this before the arm will finally break, but I did both of mine at least three times over a two year period. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1362564&rss=1 Tue, 28 Jul 2009 18:47 GMT Replacing the struts at 145,000 miles and just found out that my 99 S70 AWD has self leveling rear shocks (part # 862027). WOW - they are not cheap ($300 each) in comparison to normal shocks. The bilstein struts only cost $119 each. I have not had experience with these on Volvo's, so how does the self leveling system work? Not to sound dumb here, but aren't all shocks self leveling? What is the life expectancy of these over regular shocks? Has anyone got advice on a less expensive replacement? Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) (I think) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1362555&rss=1 Tue, 28 Jul 2009 17:07 GMT Thank you. I will check them out. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362524&rss=1 Tue, 28 Jul 2009 12:26 GMT Just relocated to Jacksonville Florida and was wondering if anyone knows a good Volvo mechanic in the Fruit Cove/St John's area? Thank you Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362110&rss=1 Sun, 26 Jul 2009 01:34 GMT My 1966 1800S was Light Green (color code 91) and when I did the repaint I used a 2001 VW beetle color called Isotope Green. Almost an exact match for the Volvo color and turned out great. Lot's of compliments. Check out http://volvo1800pictures.com/ as this is a great source of pictures from all years and color codes from 1800S production. Mine is in the bonus gallery under 1966 color code 91 owner "Oliver Brown" The blue dot on the upper right is a link to additional photos. Good luck. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361392&rss=1 Wed, 22 Jul 2009 14:46 GMT Just relocated to Jacksonville Florida and was wondering if anyone knows a good Volvo mechanic in the Fruit Cove/St John's area? Thank you Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1361390&rss=1 Wed, 22 Jul 2009 14:37 GMT Just took the wifes car in to the local Castrol Oil Change place and for $39.99 they were able to pull the fulid out of the AC system, pull a vaccum on the system, and refill the system with the proper fulids and an additive that glows under balck light. They said that although her system did not currently have a leak, it would make detecting one in the future much easier. Hope this helps. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357962&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 15:42 GMT Thanks for the response. Found out about Erie yesterday and will more than likely go that route. Seems like they have plenty in stock. Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357956&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 14:55 GMT Thank you. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357954&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 14:51 GMT The viscous coupling on my 99 S70 AWD is failing, (at least it makes lots of noise in tight turns) and I really don’t want to remove the rear driveline, or pay the dealer to remove and replace. I have done quite a bit of research on the internet and have a theory question for the guru’s out there. The viscous fluid is what makes the rotating plates inside the unit transfer torque because as the plates rotate at different speeds the fluid gets thicker. Since the fluid can not be easily replaced to make the unit function normally again, could the fluid be removed, flushed and replaced with a less viscous fluid like power steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid? That way the unit could stay in place, but the new fluid would never get thick enough to cause any friction and transfer torque while providing lubrication. This would render the AWD all but useless, but would allow the rear drive line to remain intact. Does this sound possible? Also is there a way to drain the viscous fluid out of the unit with out destroying it? Thank you in advance Oliver Over a million Volvo miles and still smiling :-) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357854&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 19:51 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/