http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5175 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:32 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:32 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. "You hear this noise just before the car comes to a complete stop." You also stated this only happens when you;ve been in stop-and-go traffic, which tells me it happens when the brakes are warmed up. I think what you describe is annoying but perfectly harmless. When your brakes are heated up from use, at low rotor speeds and only light to moderate brake pedal pressure, the friction linings are doing a "stick/slip" action on the rotors. The pads, which are not a tight fit on their locating guides, move back and forth in their clearances (not left to right, but relative to the direction of rotor rotation). This results in vibration which you perceive as the noise you describe. I had the exact same problem on my 850 - I'd get a "graunch" just before the car came to a complete stop. I tore into the brakes to find the problem but found nothing. Careful experimentation showed I could make the noise appear pretty much on demand except when the brakes were cold (first or second stop of the day) or hot from some hard use. Absent any pulsation or vibration from rotor runout or deposits ("warping" may be a myth, according to some brake experts), the noise is *just* annoying and is not indicative of problems with the brakes. If your rotors are fairly new (like under a couple thousand miles), you might try a set of premium/heavy duty pads up front. I think I used Axxis Metal Masters which minimized the problem, but more reliable was to do about 3 or 4 hard stops a week from 60 or 70 mph, to get the brakes hot. You may not want to put up with that kind of regimen. Basically, the source of the problem comes down to the coefficient of friction between the pads and the rotors. This will vary with the type of pad used, and of course with the temperature at the friction interface. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387464&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:11 GMT Art, I'm not clear on cause and effect here. Are you saying you shimmed the CPS radially outward to gain mechanical clearance? Or did you shim it to change the output? I'm guessing the scope measurements you took were to see the variation in CPS output with increased distance from the 'targets' on the flywheel, but I don't understand how a too-small standoff distance would result in starter destruction. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387389&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:14 GMT You can count on this to work especially with aluminum heads; the differential expansion due to temperature means the aluminum grows about 0.001" more than the steel plug diameter. That's usually enough to reduce the 'grip' on the plug. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387301&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 06:03 GMT I understand; I owned two 850s. However, my original statement that 185/65-15 was not an OEM tire size still stands. No production Volvos left the factory wearing that size tire as Original Equipment. And while there are some applications for that size, it simply is not a popular (i.e., "mainstream") size. My first set of snow tires for the 850 were indeed 185/65-15. A few years later, when it was time to replace them, that little hole-in-the-wall tire shop in CT (Town Fair Tire) could not find that size in a respectable snow tire and I ended up with 195/60-15. Didn't notice a difference at all in snow. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387300&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:50 GMT Look for a vacuum leak before you get into the complex things. Prime suspect is the big snorkel between AMM and the throttle body. Remove this completely to inspect the underside in particular for holes and leaks. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387298&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:35 GMT After servicing the plugs this summer, the #2 felt for all the world like it was going in cross-threaded. The plug threads looked a little disturbed (distorted), and even a brand new plug didn't feel right going in. In 25+ years of owning cars with aluminum heads (including Bricks) I never cross-threaded a plug, and I wasn't about to start. I bit the bullet and got the neat expandable plug-thread chaser tool from NAPA (about $90). It's fundamentally a tap for plug threads, but the tap is segmented lengthwise so its diameter can be reduced. You insert the "collapsed" tap into the plug hole, then slowly expand it to engage the threads in the head. Then you just run the tap out, and repeat until the thread is cleaned up, expanding the tap incrementally on each pass. I used a dial caliper to compare the plug thread OD with the tap OD so I didn't over-do it and start cutting deeper threads, but the tool limits that itself. Turns out the head and plug threads just had an abundance of crud on them which created a muddy, sticky feel as I screwed the plug in. With clean threads, it made all the difference and the plug went in with just finger pressure. It's a pricey tool, but it sure beats having to deal with a helicoil repair job. The modified plug is a decent alternative, but pay attention to the threads where you've made the lengthwise cuts - they'll probably need to be dressed with a file. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387197&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:56 GMT I did exactly that, and the same high-tech way a couple of years ago. The only after-effect was a pump noise near full lock left and right. It was probably a cavitation noise from some air bubbles, and it went away in a week or so of driving. Nothing to worry about. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387193&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:38 GMT Most everyone wants to go to a bigger section width and lower aspect ratios, in addition to 15 inch or bigger diameters. 185/65-15 is just not a mainstream size and neither an OEM size nor a +1 size for any Bricks. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387191&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:34 GMT Matt, thanks for posting your follow-up. So often, the BB gets plaintive cries for help, and lots of suggestions are offered, but then we never hear the outcome. Knowing *what* the actual solution was for a specific problem adds to our collective knowledge! -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386959&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:18 GMT I second that motion. After switching to Mobil 1, the ungaraged 240 and 850 both cranked noticeably faster on those bitter cold New England winter mornings. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386860&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:12 GMT The exhaust leak you describe is aft of the catalytic converter and O2 sensor, so it won't affect performance (unless you ascribe to the rice-rocketeer school of coffee-can sized "mufflers"). Post back with what you find on the other fronts. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386566&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:31 GMT Not a dumb question, you just weren't looking in the right places. Top of the page, upper right, from the Select Shortcut pull-down, click on All/Front Wheel Drive. When the new page comes up, click on the 850 tab. Or, use this link: http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/index.htm?model=850 -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386554&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:51 GMT Not sure what you mean by "rear hub." The fixed, nonrotating part that carries the rear axle bearing is pretty much integral with the whole rear axle assembly; pressed on then welded. You're in for a job and a half to swap that beast out, with the worst part probably being removing the old trailing arm bushings. Are you replacing the axle? If you're going to the trouble, then you really ought to replace the bearing and both inner and outer seals. I think pulling the axle is abusive to the seals, and you'll invite trouble by not replacing both of them. FWIW, 240s with ABS have a 3-channel system; ABS sensors on both front wheels but rear wheel speed is sensed by a tone ring inside the differential. Putting a non-ABS axle assembly into an ABS-equipped car creates speedo and ABS system incompatibilities (not impossible to work around, but nuisances). -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386511&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:00 GMT The Turbo 240s used a different strut cartridge longer than those on the NA cars. I don't know if the later strut tubes for NA cars were shorter, but one of the things that has come up from time to time is the presence or absence of a small rubber insert in the bottom of the strut tube. If your '92 has stock strut tubes, just get inserts listed for your model year. If you want stiffer, get the Bilstein HD or the Konis... I think you're inviting trouble involving scarcity of small, special parts if you retrofit shocks meant for the Turbo models. The differences are explained on FCP Groton's web site here: http://www.foreigncarpartsonline.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1984-Volvo---40--Turbo-Suspension&yearid=1984%40%401984&makeid=VO%40%40VOLVO%40%40X&modelid=240-T-001%40%40240+Turbo&catid=L%40%40Suspension&subcatid=L3005@@Strut+Insert&mode=PA -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386506&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:39 GMT Once upon a time there was an industrial grade of Vaseline with a coarser texture and a higher melting point than the stuff you smear on babies' chafed bums, but I haven't seen that in years. When I used the standard Vaseline on my cars it melted and ran pretty quickly, making wheel bearing grease a better alternative for me. These days I just buy the spray-on Permatex goop. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386501&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:22 GMT Sounds like the oil pressure switch, but is the wire with the female connector actually attached to the alternator, or does it disappear into a bundle of other wires? I suspect the latter. The O/P switch is screwed into the block at the location you describe. It works by allowing a path to ground (the engine block) when oil pressure is below a set level, I think around 7 psi. Above that pressure, the switch opens and there is no path to ground, so the dash light goes out. Thus with the ignition switch in the on (running) position, but engine off, the wire to the O/P switch should be at 12v and the dash light should be lit. Does your oil pressure light on the dash come on with all the others when you switch the ignition on? It's possible that a previous owner disconnected the wire at the switch connector because the switch went bad, and loaded up the connector with grease instead of taping it up. The low O/P warning is pretty important, so I would get that system squared away quickly. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386500&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:17 GMT Check your flame trap system for proper function! -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386405&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 07:00 GMT I went to check the pressure in the spare a few years ago and I couldn't get it out of the storage space without deflating it. Turns out the belts had failed and the tread was parted in several places, and the spare had *never* been used. I had just moved out to AZ and had six steel wheels in the shed back east, but shipping was slow and expensive. A used wheel and a new full-size tire set me back $125 - the same price as the "donut" spare would have cost at Discount Tire. I think a 22 year-old mini spare would be just about useless at this point, or at least highly suspect. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386404&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 06:58 GMT When you do change out the battery, brush off all that crud and soak the whole connector and adjacent cable in a baking soda solution bath, and rinse well. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386403&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 06:50 GMT That's also symptomatic of the timing belt being off one tooth. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386402&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 06:46 GMT Good tire. I ran a few sets of those on the '88 and '91 back in CT... decent handling and feedback, and good wear by my standards (40K+). -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386401&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 06:45 GMT I agree. Stick to the recommended viscosity range, but use a name-brand synthetic and don't go crazy with extending oil change intervals. I consider the AZ heat to be "extreme use" and change oil + filter on my non-turbo B230 every 5K miles. Valve gear looks clean and oil pressure is just fine at 230K. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386400&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 06:37 GMT Probably not. If the alternator shaft (rotor) bearings are bad, the resulting radial play will be a couple thousandths of an inch and you'll have bigger problems than belt wear. You'll also hear bad bearings in the alternator long before they start chewing up belts. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/PERFORMANCE/?id=1386399&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 06:31 GMT I suggest you move or repost this in the RWD -700 series forum. Not much traffic here in the "performance" section. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/PERFORMANCE/?id=1386268&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 19:14 GMT "Sunburst" wheels - do you mean Coronas? Look here: http://home.blarg.net/~volvo242gt/wheels.html 195/70-14 will fit just fine, and usually the load rating is the same as the OEM 185R-14. -- In God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386266&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 19:06 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/