http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5105 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 09:26 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 09:26 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Its not a grinding issue. I read through the archives some and I just went out and looked at the detent plate. I don't think it can be the problem based on what it looks like. I have never personally had a manual transmission apart, but based on what my father has said ( he has had them apart before ) and schematics I have found, I think a synchro probably blew up. Thanks for your help. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1182018&rss=1 Thu, 10 May 2007 01:18 GMT I think I eliminated this by trying to shift into 1st/2nd with the reverse lockout collar pulled up. It did not change anything. Is there interference that the plate can cause even with the collar pulled up? Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1182001&rss=1 Thu, 10 May 2007 00:30 GMT I know that this is not the classifieds forum, but I haven't gotten much interest over there and I can't bring myself to drive the car to the junkyard. I have a 1985 244 4spd + OD, B230f that I have had for about 5 years and 90,000 miles. She's been great, but something went wrong in the tranny and 1st and 2nd are hard to shift about 60% of the time. I decided to move on, because I am short on time and I am moving and starting a new job. I know the car isn't worth that much money, especially with a damaged transmission. I just do not want to be forced to have her junked. The body is overall still in damn good shape. This is a link to the classified page: http://www.brickboard.com/CLASSADS/index.htm?id=11696 Please feel free to email me or call me 513-227-9896 with questions. I have done all maintenance except A/C work myself, and can tell you anything I know about the car. I really don't want to have to junk her, and I can only store her at this location until the end of July at the latest. Thanks, and sorry again for posting this outside the classified board. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1181966&rss=1 Wed, 9 May 2007 21:53 GMT I have pretty much the same symptoms and am curious to find out what has gone bad. I suspect it might be a bushing for an A arm. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=992350&rss=1 Wed, 10 Aug 2005 02:51 GMT I can speak from experience. If you switch the bulb holders left to right, the condition you are encountering is exactly what happens. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=990963&rss=1 Fri, 5 Aug 2005 23:27 GMT My clutch started squeaking and when I took the cable off at the pedal to grease that connection, I noticed the Clevis looking part of the cable was wore badly. The hole for the pin is worn very oblong and I would like to go ahead and replace it. I called the Volvo Dealership (Beechmont Volvo if you are from Cincinnati) and they get $114.31 for one. FCP has one for $20 (scantech) and IPD has one for $32. Heard bad things about eh scantech but cannont find what brand IPD carries. Does anyone know? Also, I read in the archives that Gemo is the OEM supplier for Volvo. Where can I find one of those? Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=987141&rss=1 Mon, 25 Jul 2005 22:17 GMT Well after thinking about it a minute, I figured out it would help to reconnect the throttle position switch. Problem solved. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=976606&rss=1 Mon, 27 Jun 2005 00:18 GMT First of all, the car has a NA B230f with the original wiring harness. At least some of the rotten wires have been repaired, but ones inside the harness I do not know the condition of. Today I changed the intake manifold gasket and the throttle body gasket trying to get rid of a rough idle caused by what I think is a vacuum leak somewhere. Now that I have this finished, the car idles fast. The adjustment screw on the underside of the throttle body used to, when screwed all the way in, almost kill the car. Now, with the adjustment screw bottomed out, it wants to hover at about 900 rpm. Sometimes while driving I will stop (neutral or clutch in) and its sitting at about 750 rpm but usually its at 900. The A/C switch is turning off, that isn't causing it. I cleaned the idle motor about 4 months ago (didn't disassemble, but cleaned the valve part). I fear something inside the harness has shorted together causing. Anyone have any other things I should look at or a similar problem before? thanks much. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=976572&rss=1 Sun, 26 Jun 2005 22:09 GMT I am considering pulling my injectors and having them cleaned but am not having much luck finding someone in Cincinnati, OH (where I live) to clean them. So, has anyone that lives in or around Cincinnati had their injectors cleaned and if so where? Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=974261&rss=1 Mon, 20 Jun 2005 21:50 GMT The light comes on in the dash when the sender shorts to ground. So unless the wire to the sender is shorting out somewhere to ground, then the light stays off. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=972902&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jun 2005 22:09 GMT The wire for the oil pressure sending unit comes out of a harness that also contains the exciter wire for the alternator. This maybe what you are seeing. If the wire that is loose is indeed connected to a terminal on the alternator, it does not belong on the oil pressure sender. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=972848&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jun 2005 20:05 GMT Quick Followup: Advance Auto Parts has a Walker 15746 direct replacement Cat for 81.48 plus shipping. I have heard of the Walker name before, but do they have crap products? Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=971546&rss=1 Mon, 13 Jun 2005 17:46 GMT First, here are the test results and limits. Hydrocarbons 79.1 ppm /189.0 ppm PASS Carbon Momoxide .44%/1.21% PASS Nitrous Oxides 1468.9 ppm / 1374 ppm FAIL 1985 244 DL B230f I read through the archives and it appears that any of the following could cause this problem: 1) Excess oxygen entering the cat - exhaust leak ahead of the cat 2) Bad Catalytic Converter 3) O2 sensor maybe, but not as likely as above. I checked it recently using a multimeter with the method described in the FAQ's and it was fine. The exhaust isn't new by any means, but I don't think there are any leaks ahead of the cat. The cat was replaced about 2.5 years ago with a cheapie from autozone. I suspect this is the problem. In addition, I beleive there is a vacuum leak somewhere. However, not a large leak because I have checked vacuum at idle with a gauge and it is in the acceptable range but idle is somewhat rough. Simply looking for a little advice, but right now leaning towards dropping 125+ bucks on a new cat. Thanks in advance. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=971537&rss=1 Mon, 13 Jun 2005 17:33 GMT This job is easy. There is one bolt on each side with a weird washer that holds the springs on. The top part of the spring fits over a rubber mount and the lower has the above mentioned bolt. Two schools of thought on installation. 1) Jack up rear end and support. Support axle with jack, remove lower shock mounting bolts and said spring mounting bolt, lower axle, spring falls out. 2) Jack up rear, support axle, jack up axle and remove spring mount bolt. Lower axle all the way until shock bottoms out. Use Spring compressors to compress spring until it can be removed. 1) is probably safer, but 2) requires the removal of only two bolts. I did it the second way and it only took about an hour. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=969041&rss=1 Mon, 6 Jun 2005 22:22 GMT No that particular hose is to suck up warm air off the exhaust manifold in cold temperatures and when the engine is cold. It simply helps the engine come up to operating temperature faster, and its only advantage is for emissions reduction. In fact, there is a valve in the airbox that fails and then allows only preheated air into the engine, which burns up your Air Mass Meter. Its not that important and not causing your problems. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=968256&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jun 2005 18:54 GMT I don't know what they are called...basically its a long bolt with two hooks on it and you crank it down with a wrench. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=956412&rss=1 Fri, 6 May 2005 18:40 GMT There are two schools of though on this. 1) Jack up rear of car and support the car with blocks of jackstands and the axle with jacks. Then remove the lower bolt of the rear shock and the 1 bolt on the bottom of the spring (A larger fender washer looking thing with a bolt through it). The spring will then fall right out. 2) I didn't remove the shock mount or support the axle for the matter. I used a set of spring compressors to get the springs in and out. It required some maneuvering but in the end I only had to remove and replace 1 bolt per spring (not counting lugnuts). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=956315&rss=1 Fri, 6 May 2005 14:43 GMT I have had the brake light switch fail twice in about two years. Reach up there and take it out and test it with a multimeter. You could probably do it inplace, but it's easier to just take it out in my opinion. Most Autozone's carry the switch and it was about $10. If thats not it, start hunting for a broken wire. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=955631&rss=1 Wed, 4 May 2005 23:27 GMT I understand that most uhaul trailers etc have the 2 filament bulb system, one for tail lights and one for combo turn signal and brake lights. 240's obviously don't use this system. Thus, I checked JC Whitney for a solution and found this. It sounds like exactly what I need, but figured I would see if anyone here has experience with this unit. Please check it out. <a href= "http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000168701/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000168701/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000168701"> Anyone tried these out before? Or perhaps found one at a parts retailer. Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=950230&rss=1 Thu, 21 Apr 2005 23:58 GMT I will say that there are probably more little things like this that fail on a Volvo. The things you list are all not that uncommon on these cars. However, the difference between a Nissan and a 240 is that the Volvo, if you fix all these little things, will still be going 15 years from now, whereas, the nissan probably will not. If you can spend time with them on a regular basis and keep the little things kept up, they won't strand you. Don't get me wrong, getting stranded is no fun, I understand. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=926180&rss=1 Mon, 28 Feb 2005 01:49 GMT I think you are talking about the undercoating. Its a tar like substance from what I can tell. You can also buy it still to repair holes in it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=924855&rss=1 Thu, 24 Feb 2005 20:57 GMT I got into the Volvo to go to the store today, turned the key, and all I heard was the starter spinning, and failing to engage and turn the engine over. After about 10 tries, a little grinding finally was heard. Let off the key, hit it again its fine. After a 5 minute drive to the store and 5 minute drive back, I parked (so someone can pull me out if need be) and tried to start her. Tried about 5 times, everytime engaging on first try and starting the engine. I had the starter out about 8 months ago and lubricated everything in the solenoid and starter (the drive mechanism) because it was sticking and being spun by the engine for 5-10 seconds after starting. After this lube job, engagement and disengagement was flawless. My father and I reasoned that the lever or the pivot must have broken. (the lever and pivot that go between the solenoid and the pinion for engagement with the flywheel). HOWEVER, I read in the archives about an overrunning clutch? This apparently fails and causes similar problems? Any suggestions, I am about 3 hours from home at school and plan on driving home next weekend. Should I just plan on buying a reman starter? Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=917076&rss=1 Sun, 6 Feb 2005 23:57 GMT I bought my timing belt from them when I changed it. In fact, thats all I changed when I was in there, and all is good about 10,000 miles later. I have purchased many parts from them and usually, they are just fine. I have read people have gotten some shoddy stuff, but the people that work there are very helpful and cooperative, and customer oriented, or at least have been with me. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=914985&rss=1 Wed, 2 Feb 2005 15:03 GMT Ok, its not really that bad One heater hose goes under the intake manifold and the clamp can be accessed between #3 and #4 intake runners. The other runs to a metal tube that goes from the water pump and which terminates behind the motor. You'll need a flat screwdriver of decent length to get at the clamp, or a nut driver. Pulling this hose of that metal tube could be a challenge, and I would suggest cutting a slit lenghtwise along it and "peeling" it off. Cut of the hose where they attach at the firewall too. It makes it much easier. Autozone usually stocks both hoses. However, one hose on my '85 was a zig zag and the auto zone one just had one bend. It will still work fine. Also, don't be afraid to cut a little of the hoses, as they might be cut to fit and thus too long. Do not try to use non formed hose, it doesn't work well, the bends are too sharp. Thats about it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=910022&rss=1 Sun, 23 Jan 2005 01:05 GMT There is a simple way to test the sensor on the 700/900 FAQ's. All you need is a digital multimeter. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=906211&rss=1 Sat, 15 Jan 2005 03:03 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/