http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5085 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:28 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:28 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Hey Matt. I've used a combination of POR-15 and new sheet metal to rebuild large holes in my car's floor and the rear wheel-wells. Right now I'm playing catchup on more superficial spots. What I do is remove as much weak and loose metal as possible. Then I clean the heck out of all surfaces that will receive the paint using a cleaner that POR-15 sells and recommends. Then I either use their clear sealant paint to cover the rusted areas or I brush on their POR-Patch, which is a thicker version of the paint, on smaller areas. If it's a hole that I'm rebuilding, I'll either place some epoxy putty over the hole (while the POR-15 is not fully cured but tacky so the putty holds in place), or screw or rivet fresh steel in place. And about that fresh steel...it needs to be treated with something called Metal Ready which etches fresh, smooth steel and places a coating of zinc phosphate on it. Much like primer, it gives the POR paint something to grab onto. Once that cures after a week or so, I seal any seams or edges with POR Patch. Then I prime and paint if it's on the outside of the car, or top-coat it with their undercoating. Overall, I've been pleased with the stuff. It works well if you follow the directions. And without it, my car would have been scrapped years ago. I hope this helps; let me know if you have any questions! -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 296,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387559&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:40 GMT Yes. My large clock used to always stop when the temps dipped below 50F. The fix is to replace the capacitor(s) in the clock. I did this many years ago and it has been working perfectly since. I believe I used this post to do my repairs: http://www.brickboard.com/ARCHIVES/1998AUG/20008992.shtml -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 296,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387494&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:01 GMT That's where my pipes fail as well. But last year I decided to "repair" it by mounting a bracket across the gap and riveting it to the muffler and the broken connecting pipe, then wrapping it with aluminum flashing to reduce noise. It's still holding. I already bought a new exhaust set from the cat back but I'm going to squeeze as much life out of my current plumbing as possible. <a href="http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff19/volvo1971/BVC/?action=view&current=exhausttemppatch.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff19/volvo1971/BVC/exhausttemppatch.jpg" border="0" alt="temp patch"></a> -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 296,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386908&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:00 GMT I also carry a full-size spare and it fits in the trunk, although the spare tire cover that comes with the 240 doesn't completely cover the tire. -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386905&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:53 GMT My 84 has the B23 engine and it was assembled in February 1984. I thought they switched to the B230 for the 1986 models. -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386897&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:12 GMT I was wondering what that little hole thingy on my door hinges were for. Thanks much! I'll have to grease them before it gets really cold. Art, you really should publish your vast knowledge somewhere. Your images are priceless. -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386120&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 23:24 GMT My 240 doors are chronically stiff and poppy when they are closed. I've sprayed the hinges with lube but it's a very temporary solution. Can you use a grease gun for a longer-term solution? I have one but never used it before. -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385938&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 04:14 GMT Well done! The car looks fantastic! I'm 5,000 miles away from 300k. I hope to get there next spring (2010). -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382808&rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 20:45 GMT http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/33504608/ns/business-autos/ Associated Press STOCKHOLM - A group led by China's Geely Group is the preferred bidder for Ford Motor Co.'s Volvo Cars unit, the U.S. automaker said Wednesday. Ford said the selection signals that it is conducting "more detailed and focused negotiations" with Zhejiang Geely Group Holding Co. Ltd. about selling the Swedish automotive business. "Ford's objective in our discussions with Geely is to secure an agreement that is in the best interests of all the parties," Lewis Booth, Ford's executive vice president and chief financial officer, said in a statement. Story continues below &#226;&#134;&#147;advertisement | your ad here Dearborn, Michigan-based Ford said last year that it wants to sell Volvo so that it can focus its efforts on three core brands: Ford, Lincoln and Mercury. Ford acquired Volvo in 1999 for $6.45 billion from Volvo AB. "Any prospective sale would have to ensure that Volvo has the resources, including the capital investment, necessary to further strengthen the business and build its global franchise, while enabling Ford to continue to focus on and implement our core ONE Ford strategy," Booth said. Volvo Cars welcomed the announcement, spokeswoman Maria Bohlin said. "It's positive that it has been confirmed that there's a preferred bidder," Bohlin said. Geely, based in the eastern city of Hangzhou, said last month that it was considering a bid for Volvo Cars in alliance with an unnamed investment partner. Geely is one of China's leading domestic automakers, and was among several Chinese companies that have shown interest in Volvo and other European car companies. Chinese are eager to improve their competitiveness by acquiring foreign brands that might help them improve their technology and expand into overseas markets. Another Chinese company, construction machinery maker Sichuan Tengzhong Heavy Industrial Machinery Corp., is awaiting regulatory approval of its bid to acquire GM's Hummer unit. ----------------------------------------------------------- I'm not sure what's worse - Volvo being owned by Ford or a Chinese company. I'm not bigoted against the Chinese culture, but China the country doesn't exactly have a stellar reputation for quality manufacturing. What do you guys think? -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/OPINIONS/?id=1382515&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 14:03 GMT Did you check the main grounding cables that comes off of the battery as well as the one for the alternator? Working in the engine compartment can cause a loose wire to come undone, which has happened to me. When you first power up the car, does the alternator dash light come on? If not, either that warning lamp is burnt out or the little wire that runs from the back of the alternator to it is not connected. That is needed to at least charge the battery; it may cause other problems if it isn't connected. Last year, I had a major failure in my car's electrical system caused by a failed voltage regulator on the alternator, which ended up cooking my battery. That could be another culprit. I ended up replacing the battery and its cables, and the alternator and its grounding cable. The regulator may have gone south or needs new brushes. -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382064&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 18:27 GMT Thanks for the feedback. I was hoping that it would be a relatively easy swap / plug and play upgrade. Maybe it's best if I wait for a complete set of mirrors plus the wiring and switches. At least I know that OEM power mirrors for the pre-'85 240s were made. -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381487&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 18:33 GMT http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Volvo-240-Passenger-Side-Mirror_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4149ee9dcaQQitemZ280413248970QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I assume that these factory power mirrors for the 240 (GL? Turbo?). The seller says that they came from a 1984 240. How would I fit these onto my 240 with crank window winders? Has anyone else replaced their cranks with these? I assume that I'll need the armrests that have the mirror controls built into them along with the inner door panel built for that armrest's mounting. What about wiring; is the wiring to power these already laying somewhere in my car? -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381273&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 17:51 GMT My dad had a late 1970s Subaru pickup truck - the Brat. It was a cool little truck with round quad headlights on a black grille. It had the white plastic cover on the bed - the Brat Hat - and silver paint. My grandmother used to call it The Space Shuttle. It had on-demand 4-wheel drive and was rather dependable until someone T-boned it. The frame bent rather easily considering it wasn't a hard impact. It looked exactly like this one except that it was silver: http://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog.com/media/2009/01/reaganbrat_lo.jpg (The pictured Brat apparently belonged to Ronald Reagan and was recently restored.) -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378820&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 22:55 GMT http://autos.aol.com/article/cars-high-mileage?ncid=AOLCOMMautogenlfpge0006 When it comes to making a vehicle last -- I mean really last -- Irv Gordon is a superhero. The retired science teacher paid $4,150 for his 1966 Volvo P1800 when it was new (at that time it was nearly as much as his annual salary as a science teacher), and over the years he&#226;&#128;&#153;s put 2.7 million miles on the car. Gordon said that he spends less than $1,000 on vehicle maintenance and repair each year--and that&#226;&#128;&#153;s averaged out to include the two engine rebuilds he&#226;&#128;&#153;s had done over the 40-plus years of ownership. Today a million miles, or even 500,000 miles, is still extremely unusual for a vehicle. But just as Baby Boomer aging and fitness experts are saying that 50 is the new 40, passing the 200,000-mile mark is no longer the rare occasion it once was. Consumer Reports, through its annual questionnaire, has found that thousands of people have gone over 200,000 miles in their original vehicles without catastrophic failures or major repairs. The common thread of those who kept their vehicles, happily, to high mileage, according to CU deputy online automotive editor Jeff Bartlett, is that they started with a good car and took care of it. Over ten years, the Subaru High Mileage Club has also gathered thousands of reports from Subaru owners who have driven their vehicles well into six digits. &#226;&#128;&#156;It helps to have a solidly built vehicle to begin with,&#226;&#128;&#157; said founder Rich Kahn, admitting that keeping up on maintenance and minor repairs is the most important aspect to driving a vehicle to high miles without undue expense. In Gordon&#226;&#128;&#153;s case, along with those of many other frugal high-mileage drivers, it likely also helped to start with a vehicle that had an enviable reputation for reliability and longevity. Generally the less trouble-prone a vehicle is, the higher the chance it will be kept by its original owner to high miles, confirmed Bartlett, who says that owners will put up with unexpected repairs on a late-model vehicle to some degree -- especially if they like it -- but at a certain point they&#226;&#128;&#153;ll give up if it&#226;&#128;&#153;s cost-prohibitive. &#226;&#128;&#156;As cars go beyond 100,000, it really becomes a concern what the cost of those repairs are,&#226;&#128;&#157; Bartlett said. On the other hand, if a vehicle is very cheap to maintain and repair, it might be a good choice to keep to high miles even if it&#226;&#128;&#153;s not a standout for reliability. For instance, Consumer Reports editors were surprised to find that there were so many Ford Ranger pickups being kept to high mileage, until they realized that despite a just-average reliability record, it has one of the lowest overall maintenance and repair costs of any vehicle. Dan Dillon, a technician for RepairPal.com, which provides repair information and price estimates, said that if you want to keep a vehicle to high miles you shouldn&#226;&#128;&#153;t choose a high-performance model, as maintenance intervals are not only tighter but major repairs are typically more frequent. Read the Owner&#226;&#128;&#153;s Manual! When people ask Irv Gordon--the guy with the 2.7-million-mile car--what they should do to follow his example, he has some surprisingly simple advice. &#226;&#128;&#156;I always tell people the first thing to do is read the owner&#226;&#128;&#153;s manual,&#226;&#128;&#157; he said. Gordon, other experts, and reports from high-mileage drivers all emphasize that you shouldn&#226;&#128;&#153;t cut any corners on routine maintenance. Diligent maintenance can make &#226;&#128;&#156;profound differences,&#226;&#128;&#157; according to Dillon, in how long your vehicle lasts and how it feels. In addition to the maintenance required by the manufacturer, he recommends regular flushing of critical fluids such as for the transmission, brakes, and power steering. Also, choose your mechanic carefully. Dillon emphasized that a lot of what makes a great mechanic isn&#226;&#128;&#153;t so much sheer technical prowess but an understanding of the nuances of combustion and what keeps a vehicle in peak operating shape. Maintaining a vehicle cosmetically is also more important than you might think. Gordon, who lives in Patchogue, New York, and doesn&#226;&#128;&#153;t garage his 40-year-old Volvo, has only repaired a few rusted areas underneath. Don&#226;&#128;&#153;t forget to wash your vehicle on a regular basis, wax it on occasion, and keep salt and debris away from the underbody and cowl. &#226;&#128;&#156;Generally you don&#226;&#128;&#153;t need to maintain it more often than the owner&#226;&#128;&#153;s manual specifies,&#226;&#128;&#157; assessed Kahn from his own experience and from owner stories on his Web site. But he did emphasize the importance of being pre-emptive with some repair or maintenance items, like the timing belt. Be Proactive And Pre-Emptive Repairing preemptively -- replacing belts and hoses long before they&#226;&#128;&#153;re in danger of failing--and never ignoring new noises or vibrations, might be the best tip of all, and reflective of the difference in attitude of those who keep their vehicles for hundreds of thousands of miles. It&#226;&#128;&#153;s abundantly clear that the most successful high-mileage owners are those who understand the cost-effectiveness and importance of addressing the small problem before it becomes a larger one. &#226;&#128;&#156;You hear a new sound, you don&#226;&#128;&#153;t just turn up the radio and say it&#226;&#128;&#153;ll go away,&#226;&#128;&#157; said Gordon. &#226;&#128;&#156;Before you know it you have a lot of things going wrong.&#226;&#128;&#157; Being attentive to maintenance is one thing, but taking good care of your vehicle also means not abusing it from behind the wheel. Gordon said that he drives smoothly and carefully, but not extremely so. &#226;&#128;&#156;Some people go out of their way to see how fast they can kill the car,&#226;&#128;&#157; he said. &#226;&#128;&#156;I see how long I can get a car to last.&#226;&#128;&#157; The affect of this type of driving is undeniable. Gordon said that he typically gets about 100,000 miles between brake jobs and didn&#226;&#128;&#153;t replace his first clutch until 450,000 miles. Both are wearable repair items that say more about his driving style than the vehicle&#226;&#128;&#153;s reliability itself. Whether or not you like the car and can live with it over the long haul is really important. A reputation for quality and top marks for reliability certainly isn't a guarantee you&#226;&#128;&#153;ll love it years from now. If you&#226;&#128;&#153;re shopping for a new car you intend to keep for a decade or more, take it on a long test drive, don&#226;&#128;&#153;t skimp on the research, and don&#226;&#128;&#153;t take the decision lightly. One of the downsides of the high-miles approach is that in keeping a vehicle for ten or fifteen years, you&#226;&#128;&#153;ll be driving a vehicle with outdated safety features. Consider safety another one of your top purchase priorities. Drivers are much more likely to spring for those major repairs that become needed over 100,000 miles -- and more likely to have kept up with maintenance all along -- if they still feel positive about the car. How much you like a vehicle after so many years and miles &#226;&#128;&#156;speaks in your eagerness to take good care of it,&#226;&#128;&#157; said Bartlett. Passionate Penny-Pinching And that leads to a final, and especially important, point: After all these years, Gordon still really likes his little Volvo coupe. Typically, owners of high-mileage vehicles still like them -- or at the very least the competitive aspect of seeing how far they can get without problems. On the flip side, the frugal romance might fizzle or give way to the temptation of new sheetmetal. If you simply tire of the vehicle, you&#226;&#128;&#153;re probably best moving on rather than halfheartedly letting the vehicle decline and eventually break down. If you no longer love the vehicle, it needs repairs that well exceed its value, or rust or structural issues threaten safety, then you should consider parting with the vehicle. Even if you are feeling a case of the dumps about not driving a newer car or putting hundreds of dollars time and time again into repairs, getting a refresher on the tremendous financial advantage of taking care of a car and keeping it for the long haul might be enough to keep your spirits up. In 2007, Consumer Reports projected -- figuring in depreciation, maintenance, repairs, finance costs, fees, and insurance -- that drivers could save more than $20,000, typically, by keeping a new vehicle for 15 years and 225,000 miles versus getting a new one every five years. Yep, that&#226;&#128;&#153;s in some cases the cost of another new car itself. &#226;&#128;&#156;It may hurt to put $1,000 into a car over a year, but it&#226;&#128;&#153;s far cheaper than having car payments,&#226;&#128;&#157; said Bartlett. &#226;&#128;&#156;It pays to hold on to a car.&#226;&#128;&#157; And by taking care of that vehicle and keeping it alive for another few years -- perhaps allowing room in the budget for a vacation or other toys -- you might earn superhero status in your own household. -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376952&rss=1 Sat, 3 Oct 2009 18:57 GMT Thanks for the info. Looks like my car will pay a visit to the brick doctor, which is okay since I haven't patronized my indy Volvo mechanic in a while. -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376695&rss=1 Fri, 2 Oct 2009 15:36 GMT I may have my mechanic drop the oil pan for a look-see if this continues. Meanwhile, I'll change the oil and use pure-synthetic and see if that improves anything. Thanks! -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376521&rss=1 Thu, 1 Oct 2009 18:35 GMT I have been using dino oil for much of the car's life until the past few years when I've used synth-blend. Maybe I do have a buildup of gunk in the engine. But I'm leery about using an engine flush. I've read that it can shorten the life of an engine for various reasons but, like oil itself, it depends on who you ask. I may visit my Volvo mechanic and have him drop the oil pan to investigate. I could use a new seal anyway. Thanks. -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376520&rss=1 Thu, 1 Oct 2009 18:33 GMT The engine rattle only occurs while the oil pressure reads low; the noise goes away when the oil pressure goes normal. I wondered what the relationship was between the two occurrences. Thanks though for the tips! -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376483&rss=1 Thu, 1 Oct 2009 15:49 GMT This issue has transcended several oil changes, which is why I'm worried that it may be the oil pump. Could some of the oil passages be a bit clogged? I've thought of using pure synthetic oil to try and clean out those passages but am worried about leakage from the old seals. Or could I have a bad batch of Mann filters? I bought a case of 10 from someone, I think FCP Groton. I recall a thread or two of Mann filters not being manufactured in Germany and concerns of the product's quality. -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376469&rss=1 Thu, 1 Oct 2009 15:23 GMT When I start my 240, the oil pressure light stays on and the gauge reads no or less than 1 bar of pressure, and a rattle from the engine is heard. This last anywhere from one to three seconds, upon which the rattle stops and the pressure increases to normal. The pressure is strong otherwise, including at idle. I've heard that using an inferior oil filter causes this because of a poor or no flow-back valve, but I use Mann filters and I assume that they have this valve. I use 10w-30 oil as recommended by the owners manual. I try to use a synthetic blend. Is this anything to worry about? I know that one second of this is regarded as the norm, but waiting for three seconds for the pressure to go up seems like an eternity. Am I due for a new oil pump? Or should I just chill out? :) -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376453&rss=1 Thu, 1 Oct 2009 14:25 GMT Me thinks it's time to replace my O2 sensor. Mine is a one-wire sensor. Would it make any sense to install a three-wire sensor assuming that it will send more accurate readings sooner than an unheated one? How would the two-wires for the heater be installed? Would it confuse the ECU or are the sensors the same other than the heater? -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375685&rss=1 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 17:37 GMT It looks as if the fuel pressure regulator was the culprit. I installed a new one and now the car has lots of pep. I guess the ultimate test will be how well it runs in deep winter after first startup. Thanks for the advice! -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375666&rss=1 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 16:17 GMT Did your rebuild kit come with instructions? I'm a so-so shade tree mechanic and don't want to screw anything up! -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375540&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 23:45 GMT I'll try the WD-40 trick. I did spray the pulley's rear with a soybean-based lube but it didn't do anything. I do agree that the noise gives the car its personality, but it can be so loud that people turn their heads when I'm at a red light! Where did you get your rebuild kit from? -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375490&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 17:27 GMT My PSP has been making a wheezing-type noise every time there is a lot of moisture in the air, such as during or after a rain, or on humid days. It almost never makes this noise when it is dry. This has been happening for years and it drives me crazy since it is so loud. I think I've narrowed the noise's origin to the pulley, which looks straight. It is the original pump and is the older style with the fluid reservoir built-in to the top. Anything I can do about it other than replace the entire unit? -- Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 285,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375388&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 03:35 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/