http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=5001 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 10:06 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 10:06 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Byron, that's the same place where mine is leaking.I'm going to try to seal it the same way you did.Wish me luck I'm going in!!!! I want to thank all of you for your help and pictures. I bookmarked this for reference. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384210&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 01:48 GMT Thanks Art,The picture is what I thought.You said the 2 housings were not sealed,how does it not leak from the A/C condensation? On the left side of the picture where you see the A/C drain hole and continue under the heater core about a 1/2" is where my leak is.I guess I will have to find a way to seal it on the outside since there is no way to get to that area. Thanks,Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384007&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 01:47 GMT Thanks for the info it's just not the view I need.I needed to see a view of where the heater core is.I pulled out the evap.but can't get in to the area I think I need to seal. I don't know how I'm going to seal that area but I tried to shoot some sealer in the little hole along where the 2 housings are put together.Hope that seals the water leak.Thanks Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383508&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 00:29 GMT Need to see how they are put together and how are they are sealed. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383294&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 22:49 GMT I have everything done on the R134 change over but before I replace the evaporater I think I found a leak. One I know about was on the passenger side where the evaperater housing cover is.But I found a seam in the middle of the housing where the heater core is.It's hard to see unless you look in the housing back toward the heater core from where I pulled out the evap.There is a cut out about 1/2 wide in the middle of the housing that separates the heater core and the evap. Does anyone know why that cut out is there? I was going to close up the cutout but then I thought when you have the A/C on and fan on high the fan would draw the condensation over to the heater core and then you would have sitting water that needed a way to drain.So is that the reason for the cutout? Anyone know more about this housing? Thanks, Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382872&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:54 GMT Sorry I just looked at the invoice 2 fittings pn 14006A $10.95ea. #6 A/C hose # 55416 3.89 .I hope this helps.Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382666&rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 02:14 GMT The name of the place is:Beaufort Tubes & Hoses 3108 Palomino Dr.Bluffton S.C 843-522-8899.Sorry there isn't any part # because he made the hose up.Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382660&rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 01:55 GMT Hi Mike,I can't believe there are 3 NAPA's in my area and none of them make A/C hoses. Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382407&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 01:46 GMT I found a place that said they can make the hose for me.I will go there Wednesday and he said he could do it while I wait.Thanks for all your replies. I'm in the middle of changing over to R134 and want to do this right the 1st.time.I also called Tasca and that hose was discontinued.I think we all are going to have to get them made up or get used ones when they have to be replaced.Thanks to whom was willing to send me his for just the shipping cost. Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382406&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 01:40 GMT I need to replace the A/C hose that is between the receiver/dryer and the condenser. It's only about a foot long.You can't see it unless you pull the grill out.I have called around the area I live in and none of the hydraulic shops make auto A/C hoses.Does anyone have a known good one they want to part with? I am going to check dealers but if they have one it will be very expensive.I know this should be in the "wanted sec".but I need it soon.Sorry http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382129&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 23:58 GMT I read a few posts about adjusting the expansion valve but don't understand 1.what part of the valve you blow into. 2.To tighten is it cw or ccw? 3.Is there a correct # of turns for the allen screw? Thanks for any help.Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381815&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 14:02 GMT Just on cost issue wouldn't it have been cheaper to buy a tow bar then rent a car dolly? It would also be nice to have one in an emergency.Or look honey what followed me home!!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381758&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 02:16 GMT Thanks for your reply. 1.Noticed uneven pad wear and checked pistons and pad drag.I changed calipers and rotors because of warped rotors and I though the pistons could be sticking because of high heat. 2.yes I pre bled the M.C. 3.I bled the heck out of the brakes several times using power bleeder. 4.Yes I broke in the new pads as you said. 4. Yes I cleaned the rotors with brake cleaning fluid before installing.I'm stumped on this one. Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379060&rss=1 Tue, 13 Oct 2009 00:40 GMT O.K. Here it goes,I have had this problem for about 2 months. I noticed that my braking when normal braking seamed O.K. but one day I needed to stop quick and the brakes didn't respond to heavy braking.I would think the brakes would have locked up but it seemed like the peddle was high and firm and slow to that type of braking.Thats when My 1st post I replaced the brake booster because of the Whooshing Sound that means vac. leak inside cabin.After replacing brake booster no vac. leak but still had the same braking problem.2nd post someone thought the master brake cylinder was leaking internally so I got a rebuilt M.C. still no change(bled the M.C. before installing)and bled the hole system with power bleeder.3rd post someone said I could have a brake line that was swelling and causing lack of pressure to brakes so I replaced all 4 of the brake lines and that was when I noticed the inside pads where not wearing as much as the outside pads where.Checked to see if the caliper pistons where sticking or frozen but they worn't so I cleaned the pins and any place where the pads touched and added some brake pad grease on those areas.The rear brake pads are the same as the front less wear on inside pads.I also cleaned the 2 rear pressure regulating valves(had some corrosion at fittings but not bad cleaned up)when I replaced rear brake lines.The brake peddle is good at a little more then half way and have a hard peddle.I hope this answered some of your questions I'm running out of ideas so if you have any let me know.Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379056&rss=1 Tue, 13 Oct 2009 00:17 GMT I got one about 6 yrs. ago from aapak.com rebuilt for $120. I don't think it will be the same price now but I stayed with the York because I didn't want to do the conversion.Works fine today just switched to R134.Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378845&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 01:34 GMT My problem that I can't solve is on both front rotors the inside pads don't seem to have the same pressure as the outside pads do. So far I have changed the master brake cylinder,brake booster(wooshing sound),all new brake lines,calipers,rotors,wheel bearings.Could it be some problem with the pressure differential valve? I don't get any light but the bulb could be out but maybe restricting because of corrosion?I am running out of ides.Anyone run into this problem??? Thanks in advance,Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378842&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 01:17 GMT Thanks Dave,Thats what I needed to know.Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378228&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 02:00 GMT Thanks for all the replies.But still no answer to: Do you put the same oil on the Orings that is put in the compressor? I also read that you should use Nylog RT 210-b on the O rings (ACKits.com).Does or has anyone used this? Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378022&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 02:16 GMT I have everything to do the conversion from R12 to R134 what I need to know is when replacing O rings do you use the same oil as in the new compressor to coat O rings? Also I saw a post that said add some oil to the dryer.Is that correct? In alot of posts that I have seen it doesn't say to do that.Can anyone help me with this? Thanks Charlie 85 240ti b21 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377826&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 13:08 GMT Thanks Chris, I new I saw it some place.I'm going to check it in the AM.Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376094&rss=1 Wed, 30 Sep 2009 01:23 GMT Hi,I searched RWD to see if someone had posted the adjustment on the brake booster adjustment but no luck.I need to know because this is 3 times I have changed the Brake Booster.1st one because hard peddle (got one from pic&pull)That solved the hard peddle but got Woshing sound when aplying brake. 3rd one bought a rebuilt working fine but a little soft on braking. I noticed that the push rod was a 1/4" shorter then the one I pulled out.I have bled the brakes several times,all new flex brake lines 3 months ago,all new pads 3 months ago and master cylinder.I know I saw a picture of the brake booster with how much the push rod should be adjusted but don't know where I saw it.If anyone knows please let me know. Thanks,Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375812&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 01:50 GMT Of course 1 bolt in the back came out easy butttttt the front bolt stripped so I had to get a Dremel Tool to cut it down the middle.The night before I sprayed it with BP Blaster to help get the rest of the bolt out once cut.Cut the bolt and broke off one side and don't you know it as soon as I started the other side of the bolt head it started to screw out.To make a long story short after cutting the Bypass I put a new oring on slapped it together and you know the rest.It works great and saved me some $$$$$. Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370408&rss=1 Sun, 6 Sep 2009 01:18 GMT My solenoid died today,so I check for power to the solenoid and had 12 volts.I started to remove the 2 bolts and 1 striped.So the only way to remove is to cut off the stripped bolt.Hopefully that won't be to hard and ether replace the solenoid or do the Bypass.So if I do the Bypass does that mean I lose 3rd gear? Thanks for any help.Charlie 85 240 ti auto trans http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369764&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 22:41 GMT Jorrell,I should have said knowing if it was just rebuilt or new because some of the owners leave the receipts in the glove box. Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368594&rss=1 Fri, 28 Aug 2009 00:26 GMT Thanks Jorrell,I was thinking about that last night.The only way I would get one again from the pic&pull is if it didn't get there for the same reason. Charlie http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368593&rss=1 Fri, 28 Aug 2009 00:19 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/