http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=4945 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:18 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:18 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. This is very likely a leak at your Turbo oil return pipes to the engine block. At this mileage you are well overdue for that problem http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1340182&rss=1 Thu, 26 Mar 2009 14:15 GMT Klaus. Thanks for your reply! I have checked the fluid level and it is OK, the fluid is however contaminated and has a brownish tint to it. The shift arrow is not blinking but the DID indicates that transmission service is urgent. To my knowlege, no software updates has been done to the TCU. If you with the "M" button means the Winter mode button it was not depressed. Thanks Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1198229&rss=1 Wed, 11 Jul 2007 19:46 GMT Hey fellow Brickboarders. I have a 2001 V70 T5 with the geartronic transmission that is down and out for the moment. The transmission started acting up all of a sudden at a red light, the car would not move forward in D until RPM's were increased to about 2.500. the reverse is completely out. The codes read with the OBD II reader are P0733, Gear 3 ratio incorrect and what I think is an emmissions related code : P1618 Manufacturer control access. input / output. Has anyone else had any or both of those codes come up together with any transmssions related issues. I would very much appreciate any help you gould give me. Thanks Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1197608&rss=1 Mon, 9 Jul 2007 18:16 GMT This is replacing the ETM (According to the Swedish papers) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1136877&rss=1 Mon, 27 Nov 2006 00:28 GMT here is the link, and yes, it is in Swedish. Maybe someone has time to translate http://expressen.se/index.jsp?d=553&a=765801 http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1136458&rss=1 Sat, 25 Nov 2006 13:58 GMT The news is that the "Fix as fails" now has turned into a mandantory recall. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1136457&rss=1 Sat, 25 Nov 2006 13:47 GMT Fellow Brickboarders It is all over the Swedish newspapers. NHTSA is forcing Volvo to recall 360.000 cars in the US from the MY 99-02 due to the faliure of the dreaded ETM's. It is expected to cost the company SEK 1 Billion $ 133 million. It is nice to see that the voices of the people finally being heard. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1136274&rss=1 Fri, 24 Nov 2006 16:32 GMT Sorry. There is absolutely no way around this. The remotes selling cheap on e-bay does not come with the codes needed for the car to recognize them. They are worthless. To get the car to recognize the key a software download is needed. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1113871&rss=1 Mon, 11 Sep 2006 20:34 GMT The torx screw is only half the trick. You need to remove the door panel go gain access to a nut below the control module that holds it to the door panel itself. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1080252&rss=1 Wed, 24 May 2006 18:32 GMT That was indeed what it was. It was full of hair and dust. Thanks for your help, it saved me a bundle of $$. Regards Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1039231&rss=1 Wed, 11 Jan 2006 21:14 GMT Hi fellow brickboarders I have a problem with the heater in my 2001 V70 T5. After a while of driving the car, the a/c will, all by itself start cranking out ice cold air with the fan turning to max. The only way to get it back to heat mode is to turn the temperature knobs to max and then back to the pre set temperature. The car is equipped with the automatic A/C. I would appreciate any help you could give me. //Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1036243&rss=1 Mon, 2 Jan 2006 20:15 GMT Good news. It seems like EPA finally are looking in to the faulty throttle body modules on 99 to 01 Volvos. The below is from the Swedish paper Aftonbladet that claims Volvo might have to recall up to 300.000 cars in the US. I tried to have the article translated via some web service but with no luck. Maybe someone else could give it a try. Anyway here it is... /Thomas http://www.aftonbladet.se/vss/bil/story/0,2789,640839,00.html Motorfel kan kosta Volvo en miljard Drabbar V70, S80, S50 och C70 från 1998-2001 Göteborg. Motorfel kan komma att bli en dyr affär för Volvo. Nu ska gasspjällen bytas på 120 000 bilar i Sverige. Enligt Göteborgs-Posten kan slutnotan hamna på mer än en miljard kronor. Kraven på att Volvo ska agera kommer från USA. Kraven på att Volvo agerar kommer från USA. US Environmental Protection Agency är en av de myndigheter som har ansvar för luftmiljön i USA. Den vill att Volvo ska byta ut samtliga gasspjäll, som reglerar bränsleinsprutningen, från de aktuella åren. 300 000 bilar i USA – 120 000 i Sverige Enligt Los Angeles Times, som avslöjat Volvos problem, handlar det om 300000 bilar enbart i USA som i så fall måste åtgärdas. I Sverige är det oklart hur många bilar det kan handla om, ifall Volvo beslutar åtgärda alla bilar. Men enligt G-P såldes 120000 av de aktuella modellerna 1998-2001. Gasspjället är elektroniskt styrt och satt i V70, S80, S50 och C70. När Volvo bytte leverantör 2002 upphörde problemen. Volvo redovisar i ett dokument från juni 2004 att det har kostat 13,5 miljoner dollar att byta ut eller reparera 27200 fordon. Bilar har också köpts tillbaka, uppger G-P. ”Hemlig garanti” Volvoägare i Sacramento i USA har stämt företaget med påståendet att det funnits en ”hemlig garanti”. Den ska ha inneburit att de som klagat högljutt har fått sina bilar gratis reparerade, medan andra fått beskedet att de själva orsakat felen genom att tanka dålig bensin. Problemen för bilarna visar sig på olika sätt. Det handlar ibland om att motorerna inte klarar avgaskraven, ibland om att bilen är svårstartad eller att motorn går ryckigt. Volvo personvagnars presschef Christer Gustafsson säger till G-P att Volvo inte har haft några sådana här problem i Sverige, såvitt han vet. Vore felet generellt borde det dyka upp även på andra marknader än i USA. TT Publicerad: 2005-05-04 http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=955345&rss=1 Wed, 4 May 2005 13:30 GMT Your sensors are as follows: Sensor 1 bank 1 is pre cat, cylinders 1, 2 and 3 Sensor 1 bank 2 is pre cat, cylinders 4, 5 and 6 Sensor 2 bank 1 is after cat, cylinders 1, 2 and 3 Sensor 2 bank 2 is after cat, cylinders 4, 5 and 6 Hope this helps. Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=942644&rss=1 Mon, 4 Apr 2005 14:10 GMT Hi. Volvo just announced in the Swedish papers, that they will recall 460000 cars for this fault. This overheating ECU can actually cause a fire according to their investigations. Owners will be notified. Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=851029&rss=1 Sat, 11 Sep 2004 12:56 GMT I have to replace my heater core on my 2001 Volvo S80 2.9. I would greatly appreciate any hints on how to do this. The core seems to be easy enough to get to but how do I get the piping to the core out of the way? Thanks in advance. Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=830657&rss=1 Sat, 24 Jul 2004 00:17 GMT I have a 2000 S80T6 that sometimes shows the DSTC service required message. Cycling the key sometimes fixes the problem but it always comes back. The code read was steering gear sensor signal intermittent. Has anyone had any experience with this problem? Could it still be the ABS module that needs changed? All hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=827543&rss=1 Fri, 16 Jul 2004 16:06 GMT Your dealer is full of it!!!! You do not have to take the motor out but it is tricky and one could use an extra joint between the elbow and wrist. I have never heard of a cracked turbo unless there has been a major internal faliure. Make sure you check for any loose connections or blown O-rings on the pressure side as you remove parts. Start by taking the brace between the strut towers off. Remove the plastic pressure pipe from the top of the engine, there is a screw under the "Twin charged" emblem. remove the low pressure plastic pipe. Remove heat shield to expose the Turbo. Remove the clamps that secures the aluminum pipes to the Turbo. Remove the three nuts securing the exhaust 90 degree elbow from the turbo and tie the pipe to the other one. Drain the antifreeze completely into a container, preferrably with a lid (animals love that stuff and it WILL kill them). Loosen connections for coolant pipes from the turbo, dont loose the copper gaskets . Loosen the Oil pressure pipe. Loosen the oil return pipe from under the turbo, (This is where the extra joint would have come in handy). Remember to have a new gasket set for the oil return line. Finally loosen the four nuts for the turbo to the manifold. The turbo is now loose and can be removed. Make sure to put some oil on all the nuts that see heat before loosening them, this due to that the studs have a tendency to back out of the manifold and the Turbo and messing the threads up. The above descripition is to the best of my ability, not having the car in front of me and being about six months since i actually did the swap. One more thing, make sure to have some band aid handy, you ARE going to get some scratches and nicks out of this one, but Hey, its worth it by the money you save. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=788407&rss=1 Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:58 GMT I plugged the weep hole on my 850R back in 1997, I had put an additional 100k on the car when it was sold last year whithout even a hint of a problem. Every now and then, together with a oil change I removed the screw only to find a very small amount of oil accumulated (less than a tea spoon) I'd say plug the hole. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=786661&rss=1 Thu, 15 Apr 2004 19:46 GMT Of course you can change the turbos without dropping the engine. Did the dealer tell you that? It is a little cumbersome but the Left one is easier than the Right one. I have done it and would not however recommend it to a non experienced mechanic. What exactly is cracked on your Turbo? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=786655&rss=1 Thu, 15 Apr 2004 19:26 GMT Hi. There is one on E-Bay. Cut and paste the below link. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33710&item=2470477552 /Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=779274&rss=1 Wed, 31 Mar 2004 13:46 GMT A quick post to let you all know what caused the dead vehicle condition on my 2000 S80 T6. Took it to the dealer, VADIS could not communicate with the CEM Central Electronics Module), replaced module, re loaded software and everything now works fine. I sure miss the time when you could fault trace with an old volt meter and tune the car with a screwdriver. /Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=773066&rss=1 Fri, 19 Mar 2004 13:02 GMT Battery brand new, even tried to replace with another one. It is going to the dealer tomorrow, I will post the result. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=772150&rss=1 Wed, 17 Mar 2004 17:34 GMT Hi. My 91 940 shift lever will not come out of park unless the shift lock button is pushed. Brake lights work fine. Might there be a relay for this function? Any info would be appreciated. Thomass http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=771561&rss=1 Tue, 16 Mar 2004 15:53 GMT I know, but the dealer is two hours away and I was just fishing for info from someone that might have experienced the same thing or a Volvo tech that might be able to lead me in the right direction. Ultimately it might be a trailer trip to the dealer. Thanks Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=771118&rss=1 Mon, 15 Mar 2004 20:48 GMT Sorry, I get it. Measure the terminal that activates the relay. Thanks Thomas http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=771061&rss=1 Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:31 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/