http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=4940 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 06:25 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 06:25 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Without the lugs, they are not worth much. Reason is that they are a deep shank WITH a conical seat. They can be bought new - not sure where, but it was mentioned about $7-10 each lug. <img src="http://powerpuff.net/volvo/misc/bbs.jpg"> -- Kane ... old pic. I don't even have a black set anymore. -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1132658&rss=1 Sun, 12 Nov 2006 06:22 GMT +1 on everyone else comments. That's why I do my own alignments. Nothing special - just a tape measure and some patience, as one would prolly have to make adjustments a few times to get it right. Still, my opportunity cost for an hour of labor and short test drives is a lot less than what an alignment job would go for. FWIW, you can even check camber on your own too. All you need is a level surface to park on, a L square, tape measure or ruler that measures up to the edge, and a scientific calculator. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1132653&rss=1 Sun, 12 Nov 2006 06:11 GMT Yes. Here's a pic of 'em rattle canned with Rustoleum #7715. <img src="http://www.powerpuff.net/volvo/gallery/wheels/Virgo.jpg"> -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1129148&rss=1 Wed, 1 Nov 2006 02:05 GMT I've bought a stainless steel set off ebay before ... came out to about $45/shipped. Fitted OK enough - I had to repunch a couple holes and what not, and on a rusty body, you will have to be creative in the attachments. The car it went on spent 25 years in Alaska ... covered up enough of the cancer to say it was worth it to me. :) -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1129147&rss=1 Wed, 1 Nov 2006 02:03 GMT To expand a little (can't edit it anymore ...) <hr> Use common sense to remove any additional parts, or if your's looks a little different. Leather and cloth covers may be slightly different, and may have used additional hog rings. Likewise, power and manual seat frames are somewhat different in assembly too. The steps and the concept are similar, however. As an additional side note, one can remove the seat back cover without taking out the seat. If you are doing this to repair or replace the upholstery, removing them yourself would still save you money, even if someone else will be doing the sewing. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1128197&rss=1 Sun, 29 Oct 2006 03:02 GMT Long time no posting here, really. Over time, a lot of others have caught on the knowledge to keep it spreaded around, so. That and I got sick of answering the same stuff over and over and over and over again ... -- Kane ... working three jobs and going to school at the same time didn't help either. Had to make ends meet somehow, y'know. -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1127882&rss=1 Sat, 28 Oct 2006 00:08 GMT (If Steve want to add this to the entries already in the FAQ ...) <hr> Quick little graphical view on how to dismantle the front seats for a 7/9 series to replace the cover, foam, and/or lumber support. Both driver and passenger seats are very similar. <img src="http://www.powerpuff.net/volvo/seat/1.jpg"> <img src="http://www.powerpuff.net/volvo/seat/2.jpg"> <img src="http://www.powerpuff.net/volvo/seat/3.jpg"> <img src="http://www.powerpuff.net/volvo/seat/4.jpg"> <img src="http://www.powerpuff.net/volvo/seat/5.jpg"> <img src="http://www.powerpuff.net/volvo/seat/6.jpg"> <img src="http://www.powerpuff.net/volvo/seat/7.jpg"> Use common sense to remove any additional parts. It's wise to use a piece of sturdy fabric about a square foot (ie. commercial low-pile carpet) under the bottom seat cushion when reassembling to avoid the wires from cutting into the foam in the future. For simplicity sake, use zip ties in place of hog rings when recovering and reattaching the parts. -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1127848&rss=1 Fri, 27 Oct 2006 21:42 GMT I'd buy used OEM before I consider new aftermarket. <a href="http://passportrealty.net/kane/POS_Taillight.jpg">Click here</a> Note that it's completely melted around the brake light area, to the extent that the socket cannot go in anymore. It's warped over the backup and rear fogs lights too, which really doesn't get much use if you think about it. Outside still looks fine ... the insides are crap. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1085876&rss=1 Sun, 11 Jun 2006 09:16 GMT Speedo/odometer would be off, and you may need overload springs in the back, as it may rub on a deep bump, but otherwise, 215/65/15 is alright. FWIW, I run 215/60/16 on my 745. Even more extreme was a wagon I saw at the junkyard once ... 235/70/15. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1085872&rss=1 Sun, 11 Jun 2006 08:55 GMT You didn't note the year, so I can't say for certain. Anyways, presuming all is still original, '86 and earlier with the small 10.25" rotors will clear. '88 and later had 11.25" with ABS ... they will NOT clear. '87 ... I'm not sure. The latest 740 that can use the Virgo rims would be a 1990 non-turbo without ABS, though even later in the year, Volvo was putting the larger brakes already. Best bet is to pull off one of the front wheels and measure the diameter. The issue with the Virgo isn't so much the offset, but the spokes hit the caliper. It's a reverse mount rim. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1075282&rss=1 Mon, 8 May 2006 07:35 GMT 49 state cars were Rex/Regina. CA was LH 2.4. Yes, it can pass. The '90 745 I picked up for my friend is a R/R, and did pass CA smog just fine. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1074620&rss=1 Sat, 6 May 2006 06:09 GMT Definitely won't work. 740 seats are wider, and they would either have to sit over the tunnel a bit, or need a lot of modifying. 240 seats aren't 100% bolt-in either ... you have to file the mounting hole a tad bit. The closest without having to fabricate anything, though. Otherwise, get some heavy steel bars and adapt some seats from other makes. -- Kane ... FWIW, my '85 has seats out of a Prelude. -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1070940&rss=1 Mon, 24 Apr 2006 07:13 GMT Tranny is a straight swapover, with the difference of the shift linkage and the cooling lines config. No lockup torque converter in the 240 trannies, however, unlike what the later 7/9 series n/a and 16v got. Engine is a bit trickier, but not too far off. You can leave the block 240 dizzy as-is, since '89 should be LH 2.4 already and there's no hall sensor. Mounting brackets need to be swapped, engine accessories swapped, and throttle linkages are slightly different. Such said, '87 is LH 2.2, so some swapping would be necessary. These later cams are typically slotted anyways, so a head mounted dizzy isn't out of the question. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1061760&rss=1 Sat, 25 Mar 2006 04:45 GMT Ditto on just doing it by the FAQ. The "filter" the tranny is just a mesh screen ... unless something has majorly disintegrated, it does nothing to filter out the small particles from the normal wear of the internal components. Replacement is near pointless. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1061677&rss=1 Sat, 25 Mar 2006 00:03 GMT Current ones at WM are JC batteries. Some older ones are Delphi (AC Delco, however). Last I know, the 6+ year old one in my dad's truck is still alright. WM did touch upon some Chinese batteries for about a month or so with very poor results. They subsequent ones went to Exide, then to JC. I wouldn't touch the new AC Delco batteries. The one out of my Buick is a tad over a year old and Made in China. At least with the charger I have, isn't taking a charge. -- Kane ... I'll buy Mexican instead. -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1061675&rss=1 Fri, 24 Mar 2006 23:59 GMT Correct. Johnson Control is Hecho en Mexico. :) So anywhere you see the batteries with a Made in Mexico sticker, it's a JC. This includes Sears' Diehard and Autozone's Duralast. Do note that despite being made by the same manufacturer, there are differences in construction and the formulations may differ. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1061263&rss=1 Thu, 23 Mar 2006 16:36 GMT Can't vouch that the new AC Delco batteries are what they used to be, since they've switched production to China. Have one for the Buick that's barely a year old, and it's not accepting a charge. Have an AC Delco that's 9 years old now and still chugging. So obviously, they're not made like they used to be. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1061261&rss=1 Thu, 23 Mar 2006 16:33 GMT Glass polishing kits. <a href="http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/glass.htm">Click here</a> -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1060406&rss=1 Mon, 20 Mar 2006 19:08 GMT Pre 1991, radiators from a 4-cylinder 7-series will work on your 2-series. Though some may be thicker, it will mount up fine. Tranny fluid would be MTL. Have just the left side of the car lifted so you can overfill the tranny. 5th gear is the weak one on these trannies. 75w-90 is fine for the rear. Synthetic blends are an excellent way to suck more money from your wallet, as most have very little synthetic oil in it. As I've heard (so don't rant if I'm wrong), only 5-10%. Stick with 10w-30. To get the greater spread of 10w-40, there are more modifiers (and less oil base stocks) used. If you want a blend, do it yourself. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1060404&rss=1 Mon, 20 Mar 2006 19:03 GMT Try another local auto parts store. I've never had any issues finding 'em. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1060396&rss=1 Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:35 GMT Have a shop weld a new bung on top of the existing pan. It'll be easier than having to lift the engine and drop the crossmember to change the oil pan. -- Kane ... the oil pump is in the way of simply sliding it out. -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1059789&rss=1 Sat, 18 Mar 2006 00:18 GMT No complaints from me when I put overloads + KYB GR-2 shocks/struts on my former '86 245. It was fine even when empty. OTOH, there are occasions in which I do use 'em as intended ... <img src="http://powerpuff.net/volvo/misc/1500lbs.jpg"> -- Kane ... total load, about 3/4 tons. 2 people, plus 25 boxes of marble floor tile. Free doesn't stick around, y'know. :) -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1059788&rss=1 Sat, 18 Mar 2006 00:14 GMT <i>- shop the ipd sways to death on ebay. save money.</i> On the flip side, I've seen auctions go for even higher than what iPd sells for brand new! Even if not, the price difference is often minor. When I bought my set for my 745, the shipped price difference wasn't even $30 between new from iPd and unknown used set that I was watching on eBay. <a href="http://www.ipdusa.com/productscat.aspx?CategoryID=1535&NodeID=4908&RootID=629">Link to iPd swaybars</a> -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1058922&rss=1 Wed, 15 Mar 2006 07:08 GMT I've used the Karyln ones before ... Made in Korea, IIRC. They worked fine. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1058289&rss=1 Mon, 13 Mar 2006 10:15 GMT Way different. They'll need fenders from an '83-87 760 or '85-89 740. -- Kane -- <br>While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.<br><hr>5 Volvos and a Roadmonster in <a href='http://www.scvcoa.org'>SoCal</a>, from '64 to '94. See profile for info. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1058287&rss=1 Mon, 13 Mar 2006 10:01 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/