http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=48039 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 02:10 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 02:10 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I'm actually having the exact same problems that you were discussing. I've replaced most of the same stuff that you started with, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, etc. I've had the same problem with the codes, and the CEL coming on right after I reset it. I did have a 113 earlier, before curing a few vacuum leaks and a split oil separator box. It hasn't come back on yet, but I didn't know that it wouldn't reappear until the ECU is reset with the fuse 6 trick. I guess I'll try that next. Initially, it would stall right after startup, but has since adapted to run pretty well now, except that I can't get the CEL to stay off. After it's initial readjustment from the last reset, it was about 150 miles until it came on. - John http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367032&rss=1 Wed, 19 Aug 2009 22:32 GMT Thrid, That sounds like the ballpark price for a basic refill with R-134a refrigerant. The key phrase there is "If the compressor still works". If that's the original compressor it may be nearing the end of it's effective life span. My compressor was dead when I bought my 1989 245 in 2003, but the system still held a vaccum. I had an AC shop evac the system, and I put a new compressor and receiver/drier (the canister with the sight glass) on it myself, and had the A/C shop refill it with R-134a, which has worked mostly well since. R-134a isn't as cold of a refrigerant as R-12, and it doesn't freeze me out in the car. I'm thinking the system is a bit undersized to begin with. I have a dial thermometer stuck into the dash vent, and it'll generally blow out about 25 degrees cooler than whatever the outside temperature is. If it's 80 degrees out and I'm moving down an open road, it works good. If it's 90 out and I'm in traffic, it's not really practicle. Of course, that's just my own results, yours may vary. Stickbuilder, I'd like to add pusher fans to the front of the radiator, but haven't yet. Where would I find them? Were yours designed for the 240, or did you have to custom adapt them from something else? Thanks, Johnathan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358272&rss=1 Sun, 5 Jul 2009 18:46 GMT Art, Thanks for your help. The problem that I'm having, which led me to looking through the book and the archives in the first place, is that the car will start and run fine, for about 5 seconds. After that, it will either stall, or surge badly trying to maintain a constant idle speed, after which it's likely to stall anyway, unless it is fed more gas. By feeding more gas it can stay running long enough to shift gears and get out of the parking lot. After about a minute or so, the problem goes away and it idles fine. But, if I shut the car off and restart it, with or without waiting for the engine to cool down, it'll go through the same sequence when restarted. It's been like this for at least 6 months now. When the problem started it also seemed to miss a few beats at higher RPMs and lack acceleration, though that hasn't been as noticeable lately. The new plugs, wires, rotor and cap may have cured that. But I've been through most of the rest of section 241 of the Bentley book and haven't found the real culprit yet. I have yet to test the temp sensor, as I just now got the intake manifold removed. I also missed the O2 sensor test. The ECU tests turned out good, except for the RPM signal which was only 5 volts instead of 12. The throttle body area looks relatively clean, and the two small orfices on the top side of it are not plugged up, I can see light through them. The throttle switch checks out good, as does the idle speed motor. Thanks, Johnathan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358025&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 23:38 GMT Wow...so if you guys can get mileage in the low 30's, even some with the automatic transmission, what's wrong with my 245 w/ auto trans that it's never cracked above 25 MPG in the 6 years that I've owned it? Since the switch to the ethanol gas a year or two ago, I'm averaging around 21-22. When I first bought the car, it was down in the high teens, it took a fair amount of cleaning and replacing things then just to get into the mid 20's. Thanks, Johnathan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357997&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 21:05 GMT First off, the FAQ page nor the Contact Us page is loading up from the drop-down menu, so I couldn't look there for the answer, but I'm guessing that posts more than a month old aren't able to be replied to? Secondly, I saw a great post by Art Benstein on 4-16-09 that contained diagrams and charts of the locations of all senders on the side of the engine for early 80's models. Does a similar chart/diagram exist for the later 80's models? Mine's an 89... Thirdly, I was exploring the list of discovered errors in the Bentley book. If "280-11 — Last item on page says temp sensor is between 1&2, should be 3&4. Also see Fig. 23 comment below." is in fact an error, then would the chart of resistance above it (280-11, Fig. 22) also be an error? It is not the same chart as found on page 241-12, Fig. 10, which is also supposed to be the resistance for the temperature sensor in the fuel injection section. Even when factoring in the temperature scale difference, the resistance for the 32 degF reading is different from one chart to the other, which supposedly reference the same sensor underneath port 3. Or is it possible that one half of the sensor uses a different resistance chart than the other half? Thanks, Johnathan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357994&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 20:49 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/