http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=47921 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:26 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:26 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Both sensors were purchased thru IPD and were/are BOSCH. Doesn't this company make O2 sensors for every car on the planet? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1381118&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 23:33 GMT Klaus, Just this week, I actually cleared the code and it ran like shit. Seemed to be gasping for air at times, especially when you are slowing down and come to a stop. The code came back within two days. The front OS sensor was replaced at 100,000 miles in 2004 and the rear is just a year old when the car had about 160,000. I won't clear the code again (until the problem is found) because it runs better. I guess the ECU is doing it's job! Thanks, Dan http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1381100&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 22:26 GMT Here is my problem.... In MAY '09 my '95 850T set codes of 2-3-2 and 4-4-3. I knew that the first code was from vaccum leaks and old rubber elbows. The second code is for low cat converter effciency. I remember getting this code when the front O2 sensor was dying. That was back in '04 when the car had 100,000 miles. I live in California and needed a smog check and had a plan to replace the rear O2 sensor since it was the original. Replaced the elbows and the sensor and it passed smog...no problem. Neither code returned and the performance was smoother and more responsive. Made a trip to the desert and stayed for 4 months where I did a major tune-up, tranny flush and replaced the heater core. She ran like new and I made several trips through-out New Mexico in 100+ degree heat. It never missed a beat. On my return to Northern California in SEPT. '09, I made a stop in Los Angeles and the check engine light came on. I wasn't worried that I would be left stranded as the car was running just fine and I felt no difference in performance. After arriving in NOCAL, I checked the codes and the 4-4-3 returned. HAS ANYONE EVER HAD TO REPLACE A CAT CONVERTER ON AN 850? Is that really the problem for a car that has 165,000 miles? If it is the problem can the cat converter be cut out and a new one welded in place or should I have to replace the WHOLE exhaust system? I've seen the muffler and pipes and it's still very solid with no holes or rust of any kind. Has anyone had this kind of issue(s) and is something else to blame for the cat converter code. Thanks, Dan '95 850T Wagon 165,000 miles ALL Stock http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1381038&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 17:50 GMT DM, What do you know about the previous owner and any maintenance that was completed on the tranny? Do you know if the neutral safety switch has been replaced? The factory part is defective. My tranny would go into "limp" mode especially in the cool mornings because of this switch. Low or dirty fluid can cause the tranny to shift improperly, too. Have you checked the color and level? What mileage does your car have? If you just want to modify the 850, I remember my mechanic told me that a manual transmission is possible, but you have to check the serial numbers on the engine. He said that the manual 850 engine is designed differently to accomodate the different size of tranny. Gear or triptronic wasn't used in the 850 line, so unless you have a ton of money for a modification, I would stick with the possibility of the manual. Better yet, figure out if the switch or a fluid flush could be the culprit. It makes a world of difference. http://www.brickboard.com/PERFORMANCE/?id=1357606&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 16:25 GMT Thanks mbliss. Yes, it's a '95. After I cleared the 4-4-3, I went for a long drive and can feel the difference in the elbow repair. The check engine light has not returned. I know that these cars are self tuning and I will give the car a chance to adjust itself. Going on a long road trip, so this will be the true test if my repairs were successful. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357471&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 21:30 GMT Replaced all but one elbow a few months ago, but could tell the most difficult would have to wait until I had the proper amount of time to devote to the project. Looked at the elbow yesterday and it was broken in two. I guess this would account for the 'check engine' light coming on and a rough idle. Let me backtrack abit....originally, a code of 2-3-2 was given. The car just turned 160,000 and all rubber was original so after reading some posts, I decided to replace them all with the exception of the intake manifold. Cleared the codes. Finally replaced the final elbow (I have scraped knuckles to prove it), and read the codes. 2-3-2 is gone, but now there is 4-4-3 (low efficiency cat. converter). I realize that cats. only have a certain amount of life, but could a broken elbow have caused this reading? Especially since 2-3-2 is gone? Thanks. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357440&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 18:50 GMT I just replaced mine. Broke right before hitting 160,000. I wasn't that scared to mess around with the dash, as I've replaced the AC evaporator and this was a piece-of-cake compared to ripping the whole thing out! http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/odometer_fix.php - Here's the pics I followed. I had a friend hold the dash up while I slowly guided the cluster out. Don't force anything and make sure that all the cables (two on top and one directly in back) are disconnected first. Mine has a vacuum line for the cruise control that had to be disconnected. Make sure you have a rag in place as you guide it out. You don't want to scratch the front of the cluster. I had to purchase the gear from Marin County Volvo. It's about 1/2 the size of a dime and cost "only" $35!!! I found the 3v bulbs (yes, change them now) at a local parts store and only paid $12 for 4. Marin Volvo wanted $6 each. The two bulbs that light the digital display were also $6, but these were only available at the Volvo dealer. I had to use a photographers lupe to look at each bulbs filament. They are very small to see with the naked eye. A magnifying glass should work. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1355829&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jun 2009 15:43 GMT Jorscky, I own a '95 850T Wagon. Purchased used in 2000 with 50,000 miles. Most of the problems and fixes listed here by other 850 owners, have happened to me. Have NEVER had serious mechanical issues, but plenty of the other stuff. I now live north of San Francisco (Yo, Kentfield!) and have only needed a mechanic (rear O2 sensor) once since 2004. I learned to fix many things on this car but I'm a bit of a DIY'er who likes to takes things apart. Bought a motorcycle and don't use the car as much. The current mileage is 160,000. I want to focus on the MOST important items on your list and my experiences: -Oil residue around turbo unit - I have the same greasy pipes but most of the mess is on the rubber and plastic hoses/parts. The turbo itself is fairy clean so I think that yours is probably ok. All my Volvo's (3) have been turbo and I've NEVER had a repair. As long as the oil was changed at required intervals, the turbo should still be strong. -Inner axle boot "flinging grease" - This is a BIG deal! Flinging grease is a torn boot(s) and needs replacing ASAP. Your CV joints will dry out and dirt will enter. You will have to replace the drive/Axle shafts if allowed to remain in current condition. -Right front ball joint-I HAVE NEVER HAD TO REPLACE ANY FRONT END COMPONENTS ON MY 850! Every new set of tires still wears the same. Did a four-wheel alignment a few years back. Still straight as an arrow. Probably not that pressing, but don't forget that it needs repairing. -slight noise from front struts - if your mechanic knows that the sound is coming from a strut, then it's probably a upper spring seat. I had one failure on my 850 at about 125,000 miles. Remember to replace the spring seats in pairs. If you let it go, the noise will just get worse and worse. I replaced both struts on my car with the seats, but it wasn't necessary. If the anti-sway bar links are original, they might need replacing. When worn, they give a thud/clunk sound that was noticeable especially when I would come to a sudden stop. -Timing belt/water pump - The belt intervals MUST be followed. No exceptions. At my 140,000 mile change, I had to replace the tensioner, but my water pump was still solid. AC evaporator - had to replace mine and did all the labor myself over a Christmas vacation. Took me 3 days, but I had the luxury to take as long as needed. Had my mechanic charge the system and it's been holding fine ever since. Volvo updated the air intake with a hepa filter. You should check to see if this filter is in place. Maybe it was added when the update was first released and your AC evaporator didn't suffer much/any environmental erosion. So many issues with the 850 AC system. DO YOUR RESEARCH because it's not a cheap repair. Radiator - had to replace in 2005 at 145,000. Ordered a Nisin from IPD and did the work myself. I also replaced every coolant hose, except the two that go through the firewall to the heater core. They are still holding fine. Left front wheel bearing - replaced at 120,000. Mechanic repaired. Dash lights and odometer - just yesterday, I completed repairs on the dash bulbs and the odometer gear. FYI....gear is the size of a pin head and 'only' cost $35 dollars at Marin Volvo! Door stop - Had to replace the drivers side. This spring allows the door to stop at different angles as to not crush your leg or swing out into traffic. Did the repair myself. Cost at Marin Volvo $53. Window guide/drivers - this felt lined groove/track holds the window solid when fully lowered. Did the work myself. Cost $73. Heater core: Will need replacing before next winter. Do the seats work in all positions? Both my seats need work on the recline function. Known problems with cables and gears. All said, it's not the worst car I've ever owned. Not the cheapest but far from the most expensive. I can still fix things on the car, so I guess this is the reason I still own it. If the price is good, sounds like a you could get a very nice 850. dpsc Kentfield, CA http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1355511&rss=1 Sat, 20 Jun 2009 20:02 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/