http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=47561 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:18 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:18 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. It is pretty weird that there are so few survivors of the 140s. It was a pretty common car and there are plenty of older survivors in Victoria generally. I see 1800s and 240s everywhere. The car gets noticed too. All I had to do was lower mine 2.5" and put on Mazda wheels and it gets all kinds of attention. I get thumbs up and people wanting to race all the time. I'm pretty sure that if I removed the badging most people would not know what it is and would think it was some kind of Chevy. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358835&rss=1 Thu, 9 Jul 2009 00:32 GMT I gotta take it back, I saw another 140 headed out to Langford today. It's blue and has the early grill. I'm definitely not the only one around here now! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358652&rss=1 Wed, 8 Jul 2009 04:10 GMT Thanks for the offer Matt, but the bellhousing has obvious grinder marks on it and came with a stamped metal arm that fits the cable I bought. It will be fine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358489&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 04:29 GMT You guys are killing me. Parts are not available here and I have already paid good money for the parts I have - they were not local. There is one yard on the island that has Volvos and it is attached to a dealer. When I was looking at carbs, they really tried to push a set of ZSs on me not rebuilt or anything for more than Rhys would charge - they are the same about other parts and they like to talk about the demand they have to ship parts around the world. I bet I have paid more than double what you are willing to pay for the parts I have needed and then doubled it again for shipping. If there is another 140 rolling around Victoria, I haven't seen it and it likely only comes out on weekends or something. I have seen one 130 and one 160 - neither of which were daily drivers. Other than the body, mine was in very bad shape - I don't think they have survived here. On the subject of fabricating well ... i used to run a custom metalwork shop in East Vancouver. Stock in trade was stainless handrails. Still did a lot of brass but there is stiff competition from off the shelf foreign suppliers and people like the low maintenance of brushed stainless. I stuck a Cleveland in a 67 Econoline, had a Suburban on 48" military tires with a diesel and a 5 ton transmission, a Mazda B2000 on 37s - all of which was custom fabrication. I think the clutch cable bracket will be fine and will not need replacing unless I get very drunk before I weld it up - even then it will likely be serviceable but just have ugly beads ;) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358266&rss=1 Sun, 5 Jul 2009 17:58 GMT Good to know the flex plate bolts will be long enough for the flywheel. I do have a six bolt crank. Unfortunately for the volvo, I spent seven and a half hours on the beach today instead of changing the transmission ;). The only thing I can see as an impediment to making the swap is that it looks like whoever did the auto swap broke (or maybe just chiseled) off all four bolts for the crossmember. I will have to remove those before I bolt up the transmission. Thanks again! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358194&rss=1 Sun, 5 Jul 2009 00:50 GMT Well, despite all the alarm bells, I will be putting the tranny in. Fine, so it is an M41. I will make a bracket for the clutch cable; it's an arcane art form known as fabricating. Yes, I have already measured the bellhousing - it fits the tranny and it measures the same as the BW35 bolt pattern on the block. I measure before I buy. Incidentally, I didn't know the crank pulley bolt trick Rhys dropped on here so I bought both a six bolt and an eight bolt flywheel. Last but not least flywheel bolts - are the flex plate bolts long enough? The flywheel looks pretty thick. Because the car originally had a 4spd there is probably an even chance that they re-used the flywheel bolts for the flex plate anyway but I would rather spen a couple of bucks on extra bolts before rather than hooking a ride on the bus for them later. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358082&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 08:48 GMT I have already measured and it appears to be the right bellhousing - it is also threaded because my transmission is not (apparently they came both ways). I looked it over pretty carefully and it looks like the cable ear was removed because there are grinding marks on the edge near the starter. I was staring at all the parts today wondering what I was missing and all i could come up with was a bracket for the clutch cable and a pilot bearing (this is waiting for me at the parts counter). I went in a checked my manual and assumed that all bellhousings did not have the ear and was just going to fab a bracket that mounted onto the bellhousing bolts. I am still pretty sure that is all I'm going to do tomorrow unless I fall into another bellhousing - I will make some calls. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357736&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 03:28 GMT One of my manuals (can't find the other) shows a nice ear cast onto the bellhousing for the clutch cable but mine, of course, does not have any such thing. Anyone care to post some pictures of their clutch cable bracket to ease the fabrication process? Otherwise, tomorrow is looking like d-day for the manual transmission swap into the car. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357694&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 23:58 GMT Yep, remove and plug. George Downs has said that he was confident with sawed off bolts and goop but I drilled (only barely bigger than the existing hole, tapped and plugged mine) - the only problem with this is that you will likely be unable to do that to the back hole with it in the car, mind you the intake/exhaust gasket is only worth $10 here. You will likely notice instant improvement as long as the carb throttle shafts are not in the same shape. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357342&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 04:27 GMT Hiya, Before messing with the internals of the carbs I would make sure there are no other air leaks. My brake booster leaks so it is permanently disconnected - you can check yours by disconnecting and plugging it off too (you also do not 'need' power brakes; I can lock up all 4 tires without the booster and the boots are a lot wider than stock). As Rhys has mentioned you will want to check your intake manifold over very well to make sure you do not have leaks at the manifold to head or manifold to carbs. What manifold do you have? If you have the same as me (at least the one on the car right now) there are secondary butterflies in the middle of the cast iron intake. If you have these, they are likely leaking - mine were. Remove. tap and plug with 1/8 pipe plug (the inside of the throttle shaft already has a plug). Last but not least, we are at the carbs. Long before I would discuss needles, I would disconnect the throttle springs and wiggle the throttle shafts. Some people swear by using propane, butane, WD40, etc. but I have found that spraying extra fuel around is not always a good indicator of potential vacuum leaks. If the shaft has very much wiggle at all it is likely too much and you are getting 'spare' air around the throttle shafts; they are 41 year old carburetors after all. If this is the case you will need a throttle shaft rebuild - I recommend Rhys. This does not rule out spare air from the brake booster an/or PCV system. In all likelihood you have multiple sources of spare air. Such is often the case when you are the umpteenth owner of a 40+ year old car. So, in summary, plug off all possible sources of spare air like the PCV, brake booster, and manifold butterflies (if you have them), check throttle shaft play in carbs (WITHOUT throttle shaft spring preload) and only then will it be pretty likely that the problem is not extra air leaning the mixture. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357298&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 23:25 GMT There need not be excessive positive crankcase pressure. It just happens that there is vacuum at the manifold end. Possible reasons are that there is not excessive pressure and 1) faulty PCV 2) hoses old, hard (or soft) and leaky 3) flame trap plugged 4) wrong nipple feeding PCV (i.e. non-reduced fitting and hoses switched from brake booster and PCV). There could be crankcase pressure too - it is a 41 year old car but I would lean more toward the idea that something else is wrong and the vacuum will simply draw air if the rest of the ventilation system is not in good order. I think somebody else mentioned that Volvo's crankcase ventilation system changed over the years - you have to figure out what your year was supposed to be and then make sure it is routed correctly. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357142&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 05:39 GMT well, you've got two problems here 1) the mixture is wrong and 2) the crankcase ventilation system is malfunctioning. To my thinking the environmentally conscious solution to crankcase gas formation (i.e. PCV) is secondary as it is nice but not absolutely necessary to the safe functioning of the car. Your car will run perfectly fine if vented to atmosphere. But, when the mixture is badly out (as sounds to be the case) the functioning of the car is compromised. In this case, it sounds like the mixture is out at least partially because of the 'spare' air getting in through the PCV. So, plug it off at the manifold and the crankcase is vented to atmosphere AND the crankcase system is no longer a source of air leaning out your mixture. You can get back to the environmental niceties of the PCV later. In the meantime, the combustion byproducts resulting from poor carburetion far outweigh the off-gasing of hot engine oil, etc. You still have to fix both problems independently but for now, the PCV problem is complicating the carburetion problem. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357140&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 04:57 GMT Thanks Gary, I couldn't remember the website where I had seen the code breakdown. So now that I have looked it up I find that the car originally had an M40 and I have an M41 or M410 (I will have to drag it out to look). This means that I will still have to sort out the weird relay that says overdive on it bolted to the firewall and why the reverse lights are running through such a big relay - back to the wiring diagrams! edit - so apparently the non-OD cars still got the OD relay and the reverse lights do still run through it - of course I don't know what is further down the black wire that runs down to the tranny. Something is obviously grounding somewhere. I have just disconnected the relay for now (which means I do not have a horn either now but it will have to wait until after my exam. Thanks for the assistance, Aaron http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354881&rss=1 Wed, 17 Jun 2009 19:33 GMT Hi all, This post is related to my other one. Does anyone know if the VIN code specifies between the standard and standard with OD transmissions? I am not sure what was in my car originally. I was told a four speed without OD but there is a big OD relay mounted on the firewall a few inches over from the coil. I have a standard with OD to go into the car which I think is an M410. Thanks, Aaron http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354693&rss=1 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 21:34 GMT So, I put in a 10si 78 amp alternator and electric fan, moved the battery to the trunk, and replaced all the dead bulbs at the back of the car. Next day my battery is dead (which leaves a lot of options) The dead battery might be a couple of obvious things like inadequate ground so I added a strap from the alternator housing to the firewall to go along with the one from the blosk to the firewall on the opposite side. Could be diodes in the alternator but I am not ready to give up on the brand new alternator just yet. I should mention that I bought a triple gauge set that will be going in soon so that I can monitor the potential difference (I have an ammeter too but it only marked for 60 amps and I am not sure I won't wreck it with a 78 amp alternator). My fuel gauge worked for a lot longer than ever before anyway :) The next day I started to get mad clicking from the dash area. Turns out it is the overdrive relay on the firewall?! So, I go to the parts store because I am thinking new relay (I don't know if I really want to sort this out right now). They can't cross the numbers from the relay and I am thinking disconnect because I have not put the standard tranny back in yet and the relay shouldn't be doing anything anyway. So I start it up (mad clicking) and when I went to the trunk for the test light I notice the formerly dead-bulbed right reverse light is dancing to the tune of said overdrive relay clicking (the reverse lights were the only ones I could not get to work). So, I am almost ready to put the four speed overdrive back in. In the meantime, any suggestions? I have not got a lot of time to devote right now as I have projects and then exams next week!! For now I have disconnected the live from the overdrive relay. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354691&rss=1 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 21:30 GMT hmmm ... I have to do this soon too. I am getting very annoyed by the BW35. My car originally had an M41 (I do need to check the cods though) and was converted to the automatic. I have a tranny core, bell housing, cable, missing pedal, drive shaft, clutch, etc. Would you (or someone else) be able to post up a pic of the manual tranny crossmember? The last thing I am unsure about is the correct crossmember for the standard transmission. Thanks, Aaron http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354448&rss=1 Mon, 15 Jun 2009 19:24 GMT Hmmm ... thanks. I already bought new motor mounts but haven't swapped them in yet as I was waiting to drop the crossmember and all to paint the oilpan and change the gasket all at once - I even bought a trusty 2x4 and a hunk of chain to hold the engine up and cracked all 4 bolts of the crossmember already. I wasn't as worried about the motor mounts as the one on the tranny - holy cow is that thing deflected! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353341&rss=1 Wed, 10 Jun 2009 05:01 GMT I did not cut the bump stops but there looked to be plenty of room. Not only that but I hear this even over mild bumps where the suspension is travelling very little. I will take another look at the bump stops. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353301&rss=1 Tue, 9 Jun 2009 23:26 GMT So, all new bushings in the front end and an IPD sway bar with new poly and still a persistent clunk in the front end on the passenger side. The car is also lowered about 2.5". I think it is just the idler bushing and maybe a little play in the steering box as I had it in the air last night again and double checked the ball joints which were fine before and are still that way now. I know the struts are not that great any more but they were serviceable when I pulled the front apart a few weeks ago. Has anyone else experienced this? I have yet to do the rear bushings and there is still some jarring coming from back there too. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353228&rss=1 Tue, 9 Jun 2009 17:32 GMT This is a topic of much debate. Some say Mystery MArvel oil, some 3 in 1, etc. I just use ATF. My Clymer repair manual says Type A automatic transmission oil and not to use anything with a higher viscosity. I am pretty sure the ohter manual (I can't find it right now) says the same thing. EDIT: It says to fill the top to within a 1/4" of the top of the inner spindle (take the piston/filler out and look down). If you overfill them it will squirt out the vent hole in the cap when you slide the piston up with your finger :). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352740&rss=1 Sun, 7 Jun 2009 05:08 GMT Well, the guys were really good to me and I am now up and running with the 12" fan on my 144. The HIF6's were relatively easy to set up once I blocked off the brake booster :(. It looks like I am going to have to get used to manual brakes after all because I am really not interested in changing the booster again. I also had to take the time to tear down and rebuild my distributor. It was in terrible shape. I removed the vacuum retard and soldered the plates together as well as removing, cleaning and lubing the centrifugal weights. I think everything in there is fine now (I put in a fireball trigger some months ago). It feels like I should be moving up the advance some more than just 10 degrees though. I will have to throw the light on again and look for the total advance. I regret not having my adjustable timing light any more. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352726&rss=1 Sun, 7 Jun 2009 03:29 GMT New water pump, rebuilt carbs, sealed manifold, 10si alternator, oil cooler, electric fan with adjustable relay control, fresh re-cored rad ... finally fired it up to set the carbs and the electric fan doesn't work - the box was already open and there was a little damage to one of the mounts that I didn't notice until mounting it today. If they give me any trouble over replacing that fan ... I will be missing another day of work over this. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352380&rss=1 Fri, 5 Jun 2009 06:58 GMT Hiya, I have a 70 144 that is getting an M410 and I have collected both flywheels though it is pretty likely that I will only need the 6 bolt. If you are not chomping the bit to get this done - (I am not quite ready for the swap yet) I will pass the 8 bolt along to you for $60 (I am pretty sure that is what I paid for it). Aaron http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351980&rss=1 Wed, 3 Jun 2009 17:33 GMT I'd love to go double cold start valve but I can't. Only the front is machined and has a cold start valve. If she has a lumpy start then so be it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351375&rss=1 Sun, 31 May 2009 15:54 GMT The stud I broke did come out very easily but the other took a lot more work. It backed out over a full turn and then broke the extractor - a nice bit of hardened steel. Fortunately, there was one really good bit in my rotary tool kit and I eventually got the broken stud and extractor out with enough thread remaining to forego the heli-coil too. So, the intake and HIF's are on but I haven't fired it up yet. I'm looking forward to improved mileage and better throttle response, not to mention a different sound now that the rear outlet is fully tightened down! I need a new choke cable as the original will not make the stretch from rear ZS to front HIF but that is rather small potatoes at this point. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351337&rss=1 Sun, 31 May 2009 05:25 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/