http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=47411 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:55 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:55 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Haha, I have this same problem. I can't see anything when it rains. I tried rainex and that doesn't help. I don't even bother turning on my wipers, they just smear the water and make it worse. There is some comical element of not being able to see anything that prevents me from caring about fixing it. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1362598&rss=1 Tue, 28 Jul 2009 20:52 GMT I also have a bunch of 850 parts for sale on Craigslist in Richmond if anyone is interested. I just need to get rid of everything. http://richmond.craigslist.org/pts/1269148979.html http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1360974&rss=1 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 16:21 GMT So I took a look at the front engine mount (actually the passenger side engine mount) this weekend and it was completely gone. The rubber was mostly disintegrated and I was able to pull what remaining pieces that were still there off with my hand. It was also missing one of the bolts into the engine. Needless to say, I promptly ordered a new mount today and I think this will fix my problem, or at least most of it. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1359666&rss=1 Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:57 GMT Oh, Also, it appears that it was hit straight on. On both sides behind the headlights, the metal is pushed/crumpled in equally on each side. It is clear that the front end took a decent hit at one point. If I had to guess, I would say that the whole front part of the unibody is bent. Even though the car drives well, I feel like I should get rid of it. I've already had to do a ton of stuff to it and things seem to come up each week. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1358549&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 15:59 GMT Haha, maybe in my mind, If the Volvo gets be from point A to point B it is driving alright. But yes, it does seem that there is a large problem present. This weekend, I will take a look at all the mounts. Will it be clearly evident if any of them are broken or am I going to have to look for some particular sign. And yes, you bring up a good point, I really doubt there would be enough room to do a timing belt change. I'm hoping its a broken mount but my inclination is it was never fixed properly after it was wrecked. I just surprised it drives as well as it does. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1358547&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 15:54 GMT Last weekend I cleaned the PCV system in my 1996 850 NA 5MT. While doing this, I noticed that the engine was not level in the engine bay and upon further inspection, there is obviously something not right. 1. The engine slants to the left 2. The top engine hanger/mount is bent to the left towards the passenger side 3. The cover for the timing belt is about 1/8" away from the AC lines and wheel well. In a friends car, this gap is almost an inch. The serpentine belt tensioner is also almost touching the AC lines/wheel well. The car was involved in a front end crash in 98' but has obviously been driving ok since then. After carefully inspecting the whole car, it looks like the whole font end is slightly askew, maybe 1-2 inche towards the driver side. For what its worth, the car always pulls to the right. Does anyone have a suggestion as to why the engine is not sitting correctly? Is it because of a broken engine mount or hanger or a broken transmission mount? Or could its position just be the result of the accident and things seem to work ok otherwise. Thanks in advance for any advice. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1358518&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 13:19 GMT That tool looks really good, unfortunately it doesn't look like it covers my 96 850, unless someone knows otherwise? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357768&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 11:55 GMT Anyone have OBD II software that can read volvo specific codes? Volvo FCR looks pretty good and would do what I need but it costs 115 pounds, so its really not worth it. http://www.ilexa.co.uk/acatalog/volfcr.html If anyone has version 1.7.3 of this and would like to "lend" it to me, I'd really appreciate it. I found a cracked version of 1.3 but it only supports serial cables and mine is USB. Otherwise, does anyone know of any freeware or any other software that is cheaper? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357615&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 16:47 GMT Towing was a success!!! Rented 5x8 uhaul trailer that weighs about 900 lbs empty. Loaded it full, probably had a tongue weight of 200 lbs, had stuff piled on top of the trailer and the car - looked ridiculous. Was able to go 55-65 the whole way except a very steep hill at the end which I had to go around 35. All in all, very impressed that the car could do it. I'm not sure I would attempt something like this w/ an automatic, but the manual handled it very well. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357171&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 12:45 GMT Ah, I see, it all makes sense now! Thanks. One more question, is the oil separator something I can just clean out or is it better to replace it? From pictures of it, it doesn't look like it comes apart, but maybe I'm wrong. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356199&rss=1 Wed, 24 Jun 2009 01:48 GMT Yes! That is what it is. The sound dampening fabric is soaked in oil and dripping at the low points. The thing that puzzles me is where exactly it is coming from. When I rev the engine I see nothing, and there is no evidence of where it is coming from on the engine (maybe because it is burning off?). Regardless, I guess this will be my next project on the car. What exactly should I be cleaning? Oil separator, flame trap, associated lines, EGR, throttle body? Am I missing anything? Oh, and this is a 1996 850 5MT, non turbo. Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356186&rss=1 Wed, 24 Jun 2009 01:16 GMT I've noticed that every time I open the hood, there are small pools of oil in the front of the engine bay on top of the head light assemblies on both sides and on top of the electric cooling fan for the radiator. Pools really isn't the best word to describe them but they are there every time I open the hood. It is definitely oil, and I have no idea where it is coming from. I've had to add about a quart of oil every few weeks and I don't think the car is burning oil and there isn't evidence of oil leaking beneath the car. It must be spraying from some where but both the oil cap and dipstick look like they are fine and don't show evidence of this. Anyone encounter this before? Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356110&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 19:22 GMT Outer CV joint if you only hear it while you are turning a certain direction. My sway bar end link also made that noise but it wasn't a constant clicking. Check and see if there is grease on the inside of the fender, maybe your CV boot has been broken a long time and the joint is going bad. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356014&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 12:44 GMT 96 Volvo 850, 5 Speed, Non-Turbo I am going to be moving soon and I need to move my stuff with my volvo, preferably with a uhaul enclosed 4'x 8' trailer that weighs around 850lbs. I need to make a certain leg of my journey with the trailer that is around a 5.5 hour drive with the trailer fully loaded w/ maybe 1000 lbs (around 100 lbs tounge weight). The drive is mostly flat highway driving, but at the end, there is a nasty long and steep hill to go up (up over the blue ridge parkway in NC). My question is... is this to much for my old, frail, and underpowered Volvo? Could something like this kill the car in some way - if not the transmission, then the engine? I would obviously be very gentle and take it slow, but even still... I had an Audi S4 wagon that could do this without a question, but now w/ just my volvo, I am scared that it might do it in. Please advise. Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1354453&rss=1 Mon, 15 Jun 2009 19:56 GMT I guess the photo didn't work, here is the url: http://picasaweb.google.com/headtowind/ACCompressorGapFix#5343061570610937298 http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1351898&rss=1 Wed, 3 Jun 2009 11:33 GMT See Attached photo. Get 3 bread clips, or as I did, just cut up a credit card into 3 small pieces > crawl under the front of the car on your back, no need to jack it up > locate the compressor > jam a plastic piece into each of the three contacts > put super glue on the top and bottom of the plastic piece if you are able to > then jam them all the way in and hopefully the super glue will make contact w/ something and make it permanent If you have feeler gauges, I would check the clutch gap before and after. Before, mine was .9mm and now it is .15mm http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1351897&rss=1 Wed, 3 Jun 2009 11:32 GMT I finally got my AC working, but had to kind of ghetto rig it, please let me know your thoughts. Original problem: - No AC, clutch wasn't engaging. Tried jumping high and low pressure sensors and hooking compressor directly to the battery. No pressure in system. (96' 850 wagon, 5 speed). Just blew hot air. Solution: -Shimmed clutch w/ a cut up credit card and super glue (took about 5 minutes and didn't even need to jack up car) -Completely cut out temperature sensor in compressor. -Left high pressure sensor disconnected. -Filled w/ refrigerant. When system is running, pressure is around 25, when system is stopped, pressure reads around 70. - AC switch in cabin works to turn compressor on/off Question: My temperature sensor in the compressor is obviously faulty, but why do I need to leave the high pressure sensor disconnected. Are the pressures that I am observing normal? Or should it always read in the 25ish psi range no matter if the compressor is on or off? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1351603&rss=1 Mon, 1 Jun 2009 19:56 GMT I just found the original volvo crossbars and ski rack on C List for $34 bucks. I'd say check C list, there is bound to be something similar in your area. I think they can probably handle a decent amount of weight. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1351601&rss=1 Mon, 1 Jun 2009 19:50 GMT Thanks for your continued help Klaus. I remember seeing that post before. Only thing different is that mine is the electronic climate control and my aux. radiator/condenser cooling fan is working. Another thing to throw into the mix is last night I was coming back from climbing up in the mountains and I was on a really bumpy road and all of a sudden the lights on the climate control flickered on and off. Now these have never worked while I have had the car and I just assumed that the bulbs had burned out but that is not the case. I've found if i smack the side of the dash by the climate control, they will come on and stay on, but eventually go off. They also will go off when I turn the AC button on or off. I suspect I have some sort of wiring issue w/in the climate control. Is there any fix for the Auto climate control? I might just try and find a whole new unit at the junk yard. I'm also going to try swapping out the relays behind the glove box to see if that makes a difference at all. This weekend, I am making it my goal to figure this out and I will post my findings. I will be pretty disappointed if I wind up being hot next week, haha. Thanks again. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1348737&rss=1 Thu, 14 May 2009 13:40 GMT Would a bad evaporator cause the compressor not to engage even when I am bypassing all of the high/low pressure switches and the temp sensor and connecting the clutch directly to the battery? I wouldn't think so, but maybe there is something I don't understand? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1348729&rss=1 Thu, 14 May 2009 12:15 GMT So this weekend I tried to troubleshoot my AC problem more and here is where I am at: The main problem I have is the compressor isn't engaging The clutch gap was .9 mm so i shimmed it w/ a cut up credit card and now it is .15mm the compressor turns freely by hand jumping both the high and low pressure switches make the fan relay click and the aux. cooling fan kicks on If i press really hard on the side of the clutch w/ a broom handle i can hear metal scraping in the clutch but the clutch still won't engage (does this mean that the inner lining of the clutch is completely worn out?) I verified that the serpentine belt was actually turning the pulley of the compressor I tried jumping the overheat temperature switch in the compressor the clutch has power going to it, hooked up power directly from battery Is my clutch the problem, is it worn out and needs replacing? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1348629&rss=1 Wed, 13 May 2009 17:25 GMT Are you serious? I can't reset the SRS light myself? Is the system still active when the light has been tripped? I know why it is on. I swapped out the seats w/ some nicer/newer V70 seats and when I did this I changed out the gas discharge seat belt tensioners. When I reconnected the battery, I forgot to reconnect one of the plugs for the seat belt tensioner. So the SRS system has some sort of built in memory that retains fault codes even when the power is disconnected and/or the problem is remedied? As always, thanks for your insight. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1348582&rss=1 Wed, 13 May 2009 11:43 GMT 1996 850 w/ OBDII only, 5 speed manual, non Tracs Does anyone know how to reset the airbag and ABS lights? I can't seem to access either control module w/ my sophisticated OBDII Scan tool that has KEY and CAN. Anyone know the numberic value of the airbag and ABS control modules? Is it different on older volvos then on newer cars? Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1348554&rss=1 Wed, 13 May 2009 00:55 GMT Klaus, do you have any suggestions for me? I'm not really sure where to go from here... Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1347451&rss=1 Tue, 5 May 2009 13:06 GMT So this weekend, I tried to troubleshoot what is wrong w/ my AC system. Here is what I found: 1. If I jump the low pressure sensor, the fan relay clicks and the electric radiator cooling fan comes on but the compressor doesn't engage. 2. If I flip the AC switch on the Climate control panel on/off, the same thing happens as in #1 3. I tried hooking the compressor lead directly to the battery and I did no hear the clutch engage. I tried this both w/ the car off as well as running. Could I have a bad ground for the compressor? 4. I picked up a "newer" AC compressor from a junk yard (one which I am pretty sure should work). I hooked it up directly to a good battery and the clutch did not engage. 5. I tried pushing in on the clutch while the car was running and it didn't seem to engage. I guess I do not fully understand how the clutch is supposed to work. Is it electromagnetic and when power is applied it engages? If so, why doesn't it work on either of the compressors I have? Could it be that in both cases I wasn't supplying it w/ enough current? (both batteries I tired on their way out?) Any other suggestions on what could be wrong??? Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1347286&rss=1 Mon, 4 May 2009 14:13 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/