http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=46886 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 22:45 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 22:45 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Yes from your local Volvo Dealer they cost about $10.00 but worth it. If you lose the key they can also make one using your VIN as well. Have to prove ownership. Be sure to specify Valet or Master key type. There is a difference. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370545&rss=1 Sun, 6 Sep 2009 22:45 GMT 1990 240 DL Today was btesting out my O2 sensor since I have been having problems with rngine getting too much gas. Here is why you should avoid cheap parts. After reading online I discovered that the normal voltage for the sensor is .5 volts or as close as possible to that. About 1 year ago I had replaced the o2 sensor when my cat convertor was blown. The old one ripped apart when I was attempting to remove it so had to buy a new one. With limited funds I chose to get a universal one from Ebay. All fine and dandy worked fine spliced it in etc. About 3 months ago went to pull out of stop and car backfired. After that started running poorly sputtering etc. That began a series of repairs. AMM, ignition module failed, timing belt, fuel pressure regulator. Ran good until warmed up then randomly it runs poorly then ok. I have parked it for a few weeks giving up in frustration. So today decided to attack it. Put meter on o2 sensor lead. Voltage was .3 approx then rose up to .8 but then it rose to 1.2v which is way out of spec. So just for fun decided to unhook the 2 pin heater connection. Suddenly voltage dropped to .5 volts. Conclusion that th o2 sensor and the heating element are either shorting or touching inside. So went for a test drive ran perfectly or as normal as it should be. So for now I plan to run without o2 heater. Don't forsee it causing any harm. The point of this is if yours is running poorly, then measure the o2 voltage and if it is not at .5 volt then unhook the 2 pin connector and if it falls to .5v then you know the o2 sensor is bad. Also best to invest in the correct bosch rather than a cheaper one, or at least get one that does not require splicing together wires. Not having the heater might cause a small amount of initial performance loss especially in cold climate but she typically warms up fully in about 5 minutes so I can live with that. What I could not live with was the loading up of fuel especially at idle stopped. Hopefully I can now fix it and enjoy driving it once again. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370544&rss=1 Sun, 6 Sep 2009 22:39 GMT If you disconnect it during the bad idle period does it settle into a normal idle? Since it is a valve then over many miles it is sure to wear producing a constant leak. Pinching off the hose also a simple way to check that, Or maybe put a cork in it, rather 2 corks to see.... I clean mine with carb spray once in a while... Finicky I guess. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360293&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:22 GMT My 1990 240DL is still running rough, but now I know it needs a new crank sensor, which I am buying time with. Crank sensor rusts out which causes bad idle, hesitation and racing as it cannot get good timing. Mine has never overheated, so that of course is the first big concern, to get the cooling system checked out. You could blow the motor if it overheats bad, warp the heads damage the head gasket etc. Hot engine would not idle good or start good when hot. Would go with a coolant flush then also thermostat. There is no fuel pump fuse under the hood. Did you mean the ECM fuse (25A blade fuse) near the battery?? Pull it for 30 seconds and you will reset the ECM and any codes anyhow. Mine was a dying Ignition module. Check the connector for any rust, and check voltages on the coil with key on but not running. Should be 12-14 vdc on both sides. If you get 5-7 vdc on the side facing the front (or left if your standing up to drivers side fender) then the ignition module is bad. It's located beside the battery. AMM might be going bad but that usually gives you poor acceleration and backfiring. Parts around here are getting hard 2 find. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359584&rss=1 Mon, 13 Jul 2009 13:44 GMT I honestly believe the wind resistance may be less with windows down. These cars are not aerodynamic and very squarish so expected not to get really high figures. But that also makes them more stable and solid. 32 seems high yet I am getting 25 in city driving so it may be possible. My car totes about 100 pounds of tools as well as 100 pounds of subwoofer and enclosure. That plus being automatic I think is about right. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357985&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 19:13 GMT The bracket is ok not broken, just the plastic of the sensor. I am buying time on this but now seeing closeup pictures helps a lot. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357984&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 19:04 GMT Hmm once again Art you give me a great deal of info. Well first before I continue since I am driving it I plan to get the replacement first. Basically my cable looks like yours all baked and the foil pulled away. For now I untwisted and shortend it spliced and retwisted and wrapped it in foil as much as I could to help shield it. I also rerouted some towards the passenger side, and moved the connector of the ECM side and also shortend it up too which was also slightly baked. After doing this much it is actually running better especially on rainy days. It's never fully quit yet but I think it is the source of erratic rough idle and skipping etc most notable when climbing a hill. Having these great pictures really helps. Fortunately I have without A/C components up at the firewall. Now just need to purchase new one before attempting replacing it. I also need to find some new hood hinges but that is another story. I am thinking that when I put the new one in I have a can of "liquid electrical tape" that I will treat the wire end of the sensor before installing it. Also I am keeping the wires routed away from the back of the motor. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357981&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 18:52 GMT As I continue to figure out my sometimes sputtering engine I checked into exploring my crank sensor. Has anyone changed one of these? I tried to take it out to examine it and it won't come out. I removed the 10mm bolt, that was easy. But either it has melted or deformed as I could not remove it and I broke the ear where the bolt goes. In the end I jb welded it back on and put the bolt back. I did however discover that the wires on both sides of the connector plug were baked. So I then chose to shorten and splice back the wires and reroute them more towards the passenger side of the firewall. Additionally the foil around the sensor wires was missing/damaged. So I used some new aluminum foil and wrapped it up again. I simply cut away part of the plastic sheathing for the wire running back to the ECM side. Mainly what I am worried is if the pickup coil is melted or not? Should it easily come out? If not what else needs to be done to allow it to be removed? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357796&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 14:22 GMT Another scary way to test the AMM besides voltage checking by sliding back the rubber boot and probing. But if you remove the 10mm bolt and free the amm, then loosen front clamp and pull it up. Then start the car and gently blow into the AMM while running you should get the motor to either stall or rev up a little. You can also try putting a piece of cardboard partly over it but caution it may cause the engine to backfire which isn't such a good idea. After 1989 they don't have an adjustment on the AMM to compensate idle mixture. The other important connector to remove and check for rust and corrosion is the ignition module which is located on the drivers fender beside the battery. I had to replace my ignition module as it gave first weak spark and then no spark due to age. Mine got very hot when it died. Also it was holding the coil at 5 volts on the white/red stripe wire side. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357787&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 13:54 GMT The bulb detector unit will only work if you use proper bulbs. It measures the resistance to ground of the bulbs. If you use cheaper aftermarket bulbs they can cause a problem as they are higher resistance and not as bright.. I found this especially for 3rd brake light. Generic ones just don't work. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354227&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 16:10 GMT Suspect shifter is wearing out from use. At night put into R then wiggle shifter and see if lights go on and off. Mine is sloppy but I don't see any aftermarket fixes. The gate is just worn out. I just wiggle it till the lights stay on. As much as you use reverse I can't see a reason to fix it. The switch is on shifter unit, not part of the transmission so a loose trans mount is not going to fix it. However loose trans mount will help with car not clunking and eventually having driveshaft rub on the body.... Changing the trans mount is very easy to perform. I changed mine along with both engine mounts in less than 4 hours. Put car on ramps, need a jack and block rear wheels securely!! First mount tricky to install then the rest easy. Change the trans one last is easier... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354226&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 16:04 GMT Evacuating is only needed if you replaced a part, seperated a fitting, or changed the compressor. Otherwise it's a waste of time. If you fully discharged the system or it has a leak then there is no freon left in the system. Evac is also mainly to remove oil, so if you evac the system it is wise to put back oil. Otherwise as stated in last post your wasting time and money unless you fix the leak(s). A proper A/C should run for years before requiring any recharging. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354221&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 15:48 GMT Well if you have to recharge it then there is a leak somewhere. Professional shops have freon leak testers. You could rent one or basically it is a propane torch attached to a pipe with a hole and a long rubber hose. When it turns green you have spotted the leak. Typically leak at a joint, compressor or evap unit where rocks and bugs and other debris hit against it. Could be as simple as a bad O ring. The O rings are part of each fitting. Caution the system is under high pressure and seperating fittings requires discharging the unit and should be done by professionals. Spraying it with soapy water in a spray bottle may help. Until you fix that your basically chasing a never ending headache. About the only other thing I found. The charge port is on the back of the compressor the bottom one. Once you install the adaptor, then charge with oil then 2-3 cans of freon. Mine took 3. You must put in the extra oil or you may blow out the compressor as the new type freon runs hotter and at higher pressure. I found it impossible to get the auto parts store kit to connect because the compressor mounting was so close to the adaptor. I solved this the hard way/ I took the kits plastic fitting and melted 1 side of it away with a soldering gun. This allows it to slip on past the bracket and hoses and allowed me to recharge succsessfully. Despite what the can says you need to shake it as you charge it. You will know you got it in there as the can gets warm and much lighter in weight. You also will need to rev up the motor some to get the last can to empty. Note most kits have a 1 way valve so you should not lose much if any freon when changing cans. Pressing the charge fitting on while charging sometimes helps also. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354217&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 15:41 GMT System Relay flaky? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354211&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 15:17 GMT Jumper wire goes in #6. Do that with the key off then turn key to fully on but do not start engine.. Press the button for 1 second and release. Count the flashes example 2-3-2 it flashes 2 times then a pause then three times then a pause then 2 times. Now press the button again to get the next code. If there are no more codes or if there are no fault codes you will get 1-1-1 The codes wrap around so if it has multiple codes it will come back to the first code after multiple presses. You can get a list of codes online, from several sources. Write down the codes in case you decide to reset the computer. After 89 the ecm fuse is to the left of the coil a 25 amp blade fuse that you can pull out for a few minutes and then replace to reset the computer. Resetting the computer does not fix anything but if you had a battery problem or flooded the car it could have created a false code. You will know within a few driving cycles then get a check engine light or do another code check and get same codes back. If you place jumper in #3 you can pull codes from the fuel computer, which resets in the same way. You can reset codes from the button but in my experience the fuse removal is easier and less frustrating. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354209&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 15:12 GMT Check ignition module beside battery on fender. Check coil with voltmeter with key switched to full on position. Should have 12 volts on both sides. If not replace the module. On mine it had 6-7 volts and the module got very hot. Known for failure, car runs when cold and dies after 5-10 minutes and no spark. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354202&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 14:50 GMT Spray out the switch too. Sludge in it. Yeah the switch is only there to tell the computer to lean it out slowly at idle when you let off the gas suddenly. It doesv not actually make the engine slow down. It should never go out of adjustment. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354200&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 14:45 GMT Anything after 1989 has Jetronic LH II system. Save yourself some $$$. Remove the idle/full throttle switch, need small allen wrench and be careful removing not to drop the tiny screws. Then once off and plug removed. First spray it with parts cleaner and wd-40 and see if it starts cicking again. Then measure it with an ohm=meter to assure it works. That's all it took to fix mine. When you install it back it should click just as you open the throttle from idle stop consistently.. Very tricky to adjust but has to be done when reinstalling. I split mine open to discover the idle switch is a common micro-switch and the high speed switch is a simple wiper arm. Microswitches have a tendency to fail because of dirt carbon in the contacts. Cleaning with a solvent and then a light lube fixes them. $80 cost for this part is rediculous. They stop clicking because of grease and dirt gets in them... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354197&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 14:39 GMT I think the module may perform other functions so removing it may not be a good idea. Moving the yellow wire may be a better idea. Not positive on that one. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354192&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 14:22 GMT I found on mine the plug in module which is part of the instrument cluster fails. The ic chip goes faulty. You can take the yellow wire from the circular harness that drives this module and rewire it directly to the guage by splicing a round wire end ring and loosening the bottom nut of the temp guage and connecting it there. Drove me nuts for a long time, sometimes it would work sometimes not. Only difference is the temp gauge runs a little lower reading but still shows you a proper temp reading all the time. Before the mod it would go up and down while driving, which would drive you insane. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354191&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 14:19 GMT I believe on older cars it is handled by distributor underneath rotor button. Can someone confirm this? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354187&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 14:04 GMT On mine it ends up being the spark/ignition module. Is is located beside the battery on the fender. If it fells very hot like mine did and the coil measures 5-6 volts on the white wire with red stripe (2 of them tied to left terminal of coil. You will need a repacement. Got mine on E-bay and it came with new metal heat sink. Also make sure the ground wires on the fuel rail are clean and secure, they are black wires on thw 2 main mounting bolts. 1 of them is the ground wire for that module. The coil is not usually the problem. Volvos were known for this part failing. It's actually a time issue not mileage. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354185&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 14:00 GMT On mine the lambda-sond is only on california and certain other export version cars. There is no bulb at that hole on mine, it has a plastic plug where the lamp goes. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354182&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 13:47 GMT On mine 1990 it is part of the speedo/odometer cluster. There is a tiny hole at bottom right of cluster. You take a small nail or other pointy object and depress it to reset. It has a spring behind it like a ball point pen. It is actually a plastic tube in the back or metal tube that depresses a wheel with a fine worm gear. I found due to age the plastic tends to become brittle and it won't re=engage which may or may not concern you. I don't think mine has ever worked. When it does it is supposed to light a service engine light, not the same as the ecm controlled check engine light however. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354181&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jun 2009 13:44 GMT If you can find someone handy with soldering then you could have them check over and solder cracked traces on the board. Typically where pins meet the plug and solder the rings where sockets touch the board. Old age just does this. Drop a rock on the brake pedal at night then go into trunk and wiggle and move things and you may be able to see a spark occur where the bad connection point exists. Cleaning the connections with contact spray may solve the problem also. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351272&rss=1 Sat, 30 May 2009 20:19 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/