http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=46568 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:31 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:31 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. there was a great link back in April to online service manuals. Now it's gone, what happened? old post: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1344338/S90-V90/let_try.html old link: http://www.oplin.org/databases/proxy2/proxy.php?qurl=http%3a%2f%2farrc.epnet.com%2fautoasp%2fframerq.asp http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370420&rss=1 Sun, 6 Sep 2009 02:47 GMT Thanks, yes #2 is OK and I haven't begun to trace where that circuit picks up it's ground. your BB link isn't opening on this notebook, you can reach me at soundmiami@aol.com thanks Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369105&rss=1 Mon, 31 Aug 2009 01:36 GMT My '94 940 appears to have central locks but they don't work. I switched the relay with a known good and also jumped the three wires in the drivers door. I can hear the relay engaging with the drives door plunger and verified by shorting the leads at the connector under the drivers window control assembly. Next is to put 12 volts directly to the actuators but I don't have the schematics for which color is up, down and common. Is it possible to have five bad actuators? This car was purchased in very good conditions and except for the AC PC board and OD relay I've not had any electrical issues. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369033&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 19:44 GMT Yes Art, those would be them, but they quoted me $20 each and they only had 2 in stock. They should be called Steal Volvo, no discounts. I drove 50 miles to the next county to buy my last new Volvo just because of treatment like this. I've worked a deal out with the independent shop I go to, he gets the stuff for about 1/2 what they will sell to me for. BTW Thanks to all, I thought it was a rip off, great to a have a second opinion. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368361&rss=1 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:33 GMT I also have a 1968 Mustang 289 with 70,000 original miles which works out about the same miles/year as this one and the car runs great, I've never had a problem (however I use a mixture of unleaded and 112 octane race gas) Yes, over the years I've replace most of the rubber proactively, except for the spare which is original and only for show. The car was purchased as a carrot (and investment) for my daughters education when she started high school. She was driving it about 3 block to school on occasion but wasn't impressed with the 8 mpg. Ironically she'd come home and get Bert or Ernie, her and her sisters 240s. What's more a lot of her friends have asked me to find them 240s too. Over the years I think I found a half dozen or so all under 100k which friends and family (or I) have bought. So beauty is in the eye of the beholder and while I think 10 grand is too steep, I would love to get my hands on a very low miles 240. I called the guy and I'm going over to look at it tomorrow. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368357&rss=1 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:20 GMT I'm replacing the turbo and the book recommends new OEM nuts. Deel Volvo wants $20 each. I can get a whole set of NASCAR approved exhaust manifold nuts (with studs) for that price. What makes the Volvo nut so special? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368210&rss=1 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 02:34 GMT It's in my own back yard, I'm not spending ten grand but I'd like to bid on it. I will hold off if you're interested Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368206&rss=1 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 02:11 GMT Depends...if you want to learn, it's and easy car to work on with lots of used parts available and large virtual community willing to help. On the other hand, if it's in as good as condition as you say, try craigslist or autotrader, I'm sure you can get your money back out of it What I'd do? As nice as the old 240 can be, if you're in the position of not being able to afford necessities like you say, I'd focus on finishing school ASAP. Owning ANY car is expensive, restoring a Volvo can be cost effective in the long run but requires a larger initial investment in time, tools and talent. Plus Volvos last, there will still be $350 ones out there when you're done with college and can drive. Good luck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366799&rss=1 Tue, 18 Aug 2009 17:50 GMT Excellent, thanks. Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366543&rss=1 Mon, 17 Aug 2009 16:22 GMT The evaporator is leaking into the cabin WHILE the drain is clear and dripping out side the firewall like it's supposed to. I've blow compressed air into the drain and used a wet vac to suck it out with no change. I tried duct seal to plug up all the obvious culprits including the missing firewall gasket but no luck. It seems to be coming from the tray ABOVE the drain between the firewall and the plastic cowling wicking down the rubber insulation. I don't see how the bottom tray comes off. Is there a seam up in there? Clearly the PO has been here before so no telling what the old repair looks like. What's involved with getting the drip tray out? Is this as difficult as it is on the 240? Thanks <img src=http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/8745.jpg> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366499&rss=1 Mon, 17 Aug 2009 13:08 GMT Steve, Thanks for the suggestion. Actually I was planning on going that route today, simple and no parts required but as I tortured through the maze required to get to the bugger, the voice of thou Art Baltimore started haunting me. This may end up my kids college car in a matter of weeks and she and her friends have a habit of swapping around their cars. I'm afraid liability could be an issue. (if I can tear her away from Bert, her beloved 240) Lastly we have a hurricane on the way for Thursday and I'd like to just plug and play when the dealer opens Monday, then up to Tallahassee. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366277&rss=1 Sun, 16 Aug 2009 01:02 GMT Fix it. The devil you know.... Plus You have to move up into the mid 90s to get any selection of low miles cars. A decent (under 80K garaged ect) 1994-95 940 wagon is $4-$5 grand, I've tried to buy three this summer and dropped out at $4,000. One I found on craigslist my girlfriends ex bought for asking price at $5K. #1 condition 245s are hens teeth and too many collectors are out there bidding. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366265&rss=1 Sat, 15 Aug 2009 22:38 GMT Are these still a suspect part from the dealer or has the quality inproved? assuming they still have a limited life span as old post suggest, what are some methods others have used reattaching them to the post as removing spring clips from plastic does not usually end well for me. <img src=http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/8741.jpg> I'm guessing the PO had a very large golden Labrador as this photo is AFTER vacuuming http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366259&rss=1 Sat, 15 Aug 2009 22:09 GMT I've also found this is a common place to get smacked over the years and the body shops are not always repairing the fame assembly correctly. It may take some work to get the tab engaged fully and it can be difficult to see on the drivers side or behind the plumbing for the turbo on the passenger side, http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366105&rss=1 Sat, 15 Aug 2009 02:35 GMT Using my taxes to reward people who have already demonstrated poor judgement in buying these clunkers then the overextension of credit to replace them. So on the up side, there is going to be a lot of nice repos around in a couple of months. Sounds like the housing bubble all over again. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366098&rss=1 Sat, 15 Aug 2009 02:28 GMT I give up when I find a newer, better and cheaper one. This averages about one new car about every six months to a year. Right now there are 9 in the fleet for 7 drivers including the parts car. I scan the ads a few times a week but over the years I must admit the # 1 condition old 240/940 are getting harder to find. On the up side, the market for my used ones seems to be stronger than ever, teenagers love them down here http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365321&rss=1 Tue, 11 Aug 2009 14:54 GMT IMO this should be called Cash for Chrysler as it has little to do with being green and all about getting some green in a dying auto industry&#226;&#128;&#153;s pockets,(ironic the top C4C sellers are imports) It takes far more resources to build a new car than to maintain an old one and certainly the extra 4 mpg they are buying isn&#226;&#128;&#153;t going to offset those wasted resources over the life expectancy of a Ford focus. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364360&rss=1 Thu, 6 Aug 2009 22:25 GMT Sometimes it's nice to park in the dark with the AC on. However according to the owners manual (1995 940) I'm stuck with my daytime running lights always on. I've read old post which say retrofitting the switch with a pre 92 model which apparently do have an overide, is not practical, as the wiring harness is different. Is there any easy mods for this issue? . http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363408&rss=1 Sun, 2 Aug 2009 03:38 GMT I've had good luck with Kyrlon fusion but the colors are limited (forget getting the Volvo Tan, despite what the web site says). Duplicolor has a wider selection but read the instructions, the product I looked at requires a base primer coat, two top coats then recommended clear coat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362995&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 20:05 GMT Typically the 6500 in the neighborhood are not insulated, only the lateral drops from the secondary side of the transformers to the meter. Most homes only use single phase but I noticed when I worked in New England it's a whole different animal, a lot of three phase in residential areas, high voltage everywhere and safety distance mandates from homes, roofs and bridges are more a suggestion. They had this other trick they used to clear shorts in the grid, jack up the voltage briefly with two or three bursts hoping to blow open the short (branches,and in one case a suicidal kid gabbed two phases)but that was almost 30 years ago and I'm sure they have come up with better solutions in the intervening decades. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362883&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 04:54 GMT very cool, We see that a lot down here after hurricanes. I can't belive it didn't even scratch the paint. Ironically even though the lines are dead, we find there is usually some idiot in the neighborhood that will fire up his little 5 kW generator and plug it into his house without disconnecting from the grid. As you know the step down transformers work both ways so a line that looks dead can still have enough juice in it to kill you. and it's not just idiot homeowners. There was a case here where the county came in during a blackout to backfeed a traffic signal box and killed an electrician working three blocks away. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362793&rss=1 Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:50 GMT While in a perfect world the laws of physics may have protected you THIS TIME, in your case, the line was most likely dead. My guess is the reason your station was closed and the area dark as pitch was it was a feeder line and it had been down for a while. High voltage transmission lines are not insulated, and if they are live and grounded they arc, smoke, hiss, sparkle and/or glow. The typical 50,000 volt lines will easily arc though tires to ground blowing out and cooking the the tires in seconds and yes, while in the car you are actually in phase and protected. However, there is also the arc flash that can kill you from a distance or turn your almost empty plastic gas tank into a bomb. As an electrician we're required to take yearly continuing eduction courses to maintain our licenses. The course usually includes four hours of graphic pictures of fried trucks, cars, cranes and corpses that were doing things they were not supposed to. I've never seem a Volvo in any of these power points, let's keep it that way. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362697&rss=1 Wed, 29 Jul 2009 07:44 GMT I clean the rollers and greased with copious amount of anti seize per an old post, not perfect but almost acceptable and getting better Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361918&rss=1 Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:03 GMT I am ready to fire up my project turbo but I'd like to get most of the 18 month old gas out of the tank. I've been unsuccessful at sticking a siphon hose down the filler tube. I'd rather not deal with the PITA process of removing the tank pump but it might be possible to get a small tube through the vent port in the cover? My other idea is disconnecting the fuel line a head of the main pump and connecting a hose out to my 5 gallon fuel cans. Then just turning the key. But I'll need to defeat the FR that kills the pump with no spark, (easy on a 240, but I don't know how to do on a 940. Any other ideas? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361796&rss=1 Fri, 24 Jul 2009 13:55 GMT Exactly same thing happened Monday when I picked my car up from the shop for some unrelated AC work. As got on the expressway it lost all power over about 4k. I got off at the next exit and went back, he checked air mass, Throttle body, air filter, hoses etc, then cracked the fuel rail to measure the pressure. Once the gauge was on, it ran perfect. He looked at me, shrugged his shoulders and put it back together. It hasn't given me any trouble since. I'd guess vapor lock, but that's not suppose to be able to happen with the FI systems http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361342&rss=1 Wed, 22 Jul 2009 05:08 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/