http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=46342 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:44 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:44 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Our 1993 940 is not starting unless I hold the ignition switch in the start position and wiggle it a little until it makes contact. This does not happen all the time and once the car is warm it seems to start without playing the switch. I think I have read on the list that the instruments and radio may act weird with a bad switch but have not read that the car would not start with a bad switch. Today I had the same problem: got the car started by rocking the switch in the start position but then it stalled twice, the radio presets were gone when I got it going again, so all power was lost to the instruments. I'm pretty sure this is bad switch but wanted to make sure there was not some other possible problem I may be overlooking. (Bad relay?) If I play with the switch when the car is running I cannot get it to stall nor the instrument lights to come on etc. FCP and IPD want $95. for a new switch has anybody priced one at a dealer lately? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382368&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 23:05 GMT Our 1992 240 makes a growling sound under load with the A/C on. when you back of the throttle slightly the growl disappears. It seems most prevalent at highway speed and lasts only for a short time at a certain rpm. This system works well otherwise. Cooling is fine. the system was converted to 134a a few years ago with a new compressor, but the noise just started this summer. Any thoughts on the noise. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367347&rss=1 Fri, 21 Aug 2009 13:03 GMT I have been trying to find time to rebuild the front end of my 1992 240 - replace control arm bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints. I need to lend the car to my brother for a week so I need to get the work done now. Anybody out there have a recommendation for a good mechanic in the Annapolis, MD area that can to a good job with the bushings etc. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357301&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 23:59 GMT Hi, For some trouble shooting I pulled a 951 ECU from a wreck to put in my 92 240 with the LH 2.4 injection (no cold start injector) and the 561 ECU. Car runs fine with the 951 but it did not solve my problem. What is the most current of these two units and which would be the best to keep in the car. I will sell the other. thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1328416&rss=1 Wed, 28 Jan 2009 18:57 GMT Art, The AMM checks OK. The fact that I never smell fuel with prolonged cranking got me on the ECT circuit. Ignition parts are all relatively new but I will check. I had a VW Bug years ago that had a similar cold start problem that we eventually traced to low compression. A possibility here? Could a weak fuel pump be prone to cold weather problems? I hear the buzz with ignition on but I did have to replace the in tank pump so maybe the main is real weak. thanks for your help. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1326030&rss=1 Sat, 17 Jan 2009 19:26 GMT To pick up on a previous cold start post: I have been having a terrible time starting my 94 240 with the LH 2.4 system. If the car sits overnight and the temp drops below 30 it will not start without a lot of cranking. Into the 20s and it will not start at all. Once started though it runs fine except for a somewhat high 1000rpm idle. If I get it started and warmed up there is not a problem with starting after that for most of the day. Here is what I've done: Checked codes - none Replaced ECT - (this car has no cold start injector) I have run the ECT test according the FAQ and get these results with the new ECT- at ECU term 15 and 5 there is 3v @ 32degrees. 1.7k ohms ignition off, infinite ignition On. Testing from the sensor connector I get 2.7k and .7k from each of the terms with the ignition off, infinite with ignition on. I have run both the 951 and 561 ECUs with the same symptoms. Grounds at head check out. Am on on the right trail here thinking there is a wiring problem? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1326006&rss=1 Sat, 17 Jan 2009 16:42 GMT thanks for the help. I did not get the in tank pump to run by jumping the fuses. I assumed the pump was dead. After removing the sender and replacing the pump for kicks I checked the continuity of the wiring harness through the sender. Turns out the connection through the top of the sender was bad. Not the pump. A good used sender solved the problem. Check the wiring of the sender first! duh! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1320738&rss=1 Sun, 21 Dec 2008 13:41 GMT I get a running pump with voltage applied to left side fuse #4 nothing on the right. Does a 92 240 always have an in tank pump? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1319226&rss=1 Sat, 13 Dec 2008 19:45 GMT Hi Folks, I am trying to test the fuel pumps in my '92 240. When I jumper the 87/2 and 30 terminals on the relay I hear what I think is one pump running. The same sound when term 4&6 are jumpered on the fuse panel. All sounds appear to be near the tank. I have somewhat poor hearing so the directions of sounds are hard to determine sometimes. How can I get one pump at a time to run? And where exactly in the main pump on a 92 240 sedan? Also whichever pumps I am hearing do not run at a constant hum. Sometimes I hear noise similar to what you get when you squeeze a garden hose. I've had hard staring issues when the car sits overnight especially when cold. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1319217&rss=1 Sat, 13 Dec 2008 18:06 GMT I am having trouble with cold weather starting on our '92 240. When the temp drops below 30 it is hard if not impossible to start. Turns over fine. I check the FI and engine sensors via the diagnostic port and get no trouble codes. Thought it might be the ECT. Could the ECT be bad without showing a code? the car otherwise runs fine when it starts. Lately I have a bad intermittent miss at idle also. This does not seem to be the slight ignition miss but a more severe sudden cut out and recover. Recent major tune up. Engine runs fine at all speeds otherwise. No apparent vacuum leaks. I did notice yesterday that the TPS is missing a screw and is loose could this be it? I am currently looking for something that fits it is a small screw! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1317388&rss=1 Wed, 3 Dec 2008 00:18 GMT Hi Folks, thanks for previous advice on the strut insert spacers. If I had read a little more and seen daveshan site I would not have removed the strut from the car per the Haynes manual. Oh well - side two will be easier. I noticed some play (side to side)between the strut mount inner race and the strut rod. I get the same amount of play on both the old and new strut. Can the inner race of the upper strut mount wear that much? The bearings are fine and not separated from the rubber. I think the fit should be much better than it is but maybe this is normal and I am overly concerned. could this be the source of the rattle noise in the front end over rough road surface? If I need to replace the mounts should I go with the OE or the much cheaper aftermarkets. There is 157k on the car and if the piston slap doesn't drive me nuts I may keep the car for awhile. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1315669&rss=1 Sun, 23 Nov 2008 14:04 GMT Hi Folks, I am changing the front strut on my 1992 240. I removed what I believe is the original strut cartridge(at any rate it is a OE insert). My Haynes manual calls for a rubber grommet at the bottom end of the strut tube. No such thing when I disassembled mine. Was this eliminated in later years? Or did somebody forget to insert one? I removed the ball joint to get a better look. The insert fits nicely. I want to make sure this grommet is not needed on my car before I put it back together. BTW the brake line arrangement does not make this an easy job. Got to bleed brakes? yuk http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1315549&rss=1 Sat, 22 Nov 2008 20:53 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/