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<title>Volvo: wma45&#x26;apos;s Brickboard Posts</title>
<link>http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=46245</link>
<description>The Volvo owner&#x27;s resource since 1997.</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg</copyright>
<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:24 GMT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:24 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] Oil Temp -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>Thanks for the info.
Bill</description>
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<pubDate>Wed, 15 Jul 2009 13:50 GMT</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] Oil Temp -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>Anybody know what the oil temp of a N/A B230F under normal driving conditions should be?</description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 14 Jul 2009 23:04 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] T fitting oil pressure &#x26; oil temp sensor -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>Got it hooked up today and everything seems to be working, the idiot light, the oil pressure gauge, and the oil temp gauge. I only ran it for a few minutes and the oil temp ran between 125 and 150. Don&#x27;t know if that is normal or even accurate but at least I should be able to see any unusual fluctuations.
Bill</description>
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<pubDate>Mon, 13 Jul 2009 00:07 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] T fitting oil pressure &#x26; oil temp sensor -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>Looking for advice concerning the possibility of putting a T fitting in the block where the oil pressure sensor goes and using one side for the pressure sensor and the other for oil temp sensor. The sensor in the drain plug looks like it would be too easy to bottom out and do serious damage. Thanks
Bill Arrington  </description>
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<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 17:26 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] 1988 240 Hood not fitting well... -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>Maybe this will help.
CURE FOR HOOD LIFTING AT WINDSHIELD
After several failed attempts to solve the problem of a raised hood(even replaced hinges once)on my 87 244 I finally solved the problem. I took the hinges off one at a time(be sure to support hood with some kind of prop and place a folded towel between the hood and the windshield cowl). At the rear of the hinge there is an adjustment slot with a locking bolt which in my case I had already set at the lowest possible position. I removed the bolt and with a dremel grinding bit I extended the slot about a quarter of an inch lower. I also used the grinding stone to smooth the bottom of the hinge of excess paint and what looked like globs of some type of glue. I cleaned the area where the hinge attaches to the fender and reinstalled the hinge and my hood sat flat for the first time since I have owned the car.
Bill Arrington</description>
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<pubDate>Sun, 21 Jun 2009 23:23 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] Additional switch for center stack -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>I have an 83 244 turbo parts car that had  a switch that reads AIR COND on it with Off at the top and On at the bottom. I put it in my 87 for the pusher fan.
Bill Arrington</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355035&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 18 Jun 2009 12:13 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] Hood lifting near windshield -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>CURE FOR HOOD LIFTING AT WINDSHIELD
After several failed attempts to solve the problem of a raised hood(even replaced hinges once)on my 87 244 I finally solved the problem.  I took the hinges off one at a time(be sure to support hood with some kind of prop and place a folded towel between the hood and the windshield cowl).  At the rear of the hinge there is an adjustment slot with a locking bolt which in my case I had already set at the lowest possible position. I removed the bolt and with a dremel grinding bit I extended the slot about a quarter of an inch lower. I also used the grinding stone to smooth the bottom of the hinge of excess paint and what looked like globs of some type of glue. I cleaned the area where the hinge attaches to the fender and reinstalled the hinge and my hood sat flat for the first time since I have owned the car. 
Bill Arrington</description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355032&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 18 Jun 2009 12:02 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] door pocket reinforcement -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>I was reading the &#x22;thumbs up&#x22; archive about reinforcement of broken door pockets with popcicyle sticks so I thought I would relate my solution to this common problem, every 240 I have owned came with cracked or broken door pockets.  Get yourself a good set off ebay, dremel the old broken pockets into sections that will fit neatly onto the back side of the new pockets and use your favorite epoxy to secure the sections to the backside of the set. Has worked well for me and I am a door kicker myself.
Bill Arrington</description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 12 May 2009 14:58 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1992] Looking for vinyl seat cleaner recommendations -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>I used to be in the used car business and have found nothing that cleans fabric,vinyl,leather,plastic,or metal better than a product called Krud Kutter. You can find it in the paint dept. at most WalMarts. It comes in a spray bottle or gallon jugs. I have used it on seats, carpet head liners, etc. on hundreds of vehicles.
Bill Arrington</description>
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<pubDate>Tue,  5 May 2009 11:56 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] 850 spoiler on 240 -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>I recently modified my 87 240 by replacing the stock front bumper cover and air dam with those from an 850(will try to post photos later). I like the more rounded appearance and would like to do something similar to the rear. Anyone have any suggestions or experience with this type of modification? If so I would appreciate hearing from you. Thanks 
Bill Arrington </description>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1346820&#x26;rss=1</guid>
<pubDate>Fri,  1 May 2009 17:04 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1983] the values of the 240&#x27;s are not keeping pace with the cost of their repairs and parts -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>I don&#x27;t do anything special other than run all synthetic fluids keep it properly tuned, tires properly inflated and seldom run AC but my 87 NA with M47 5 speed routinely gets 29-30 mpg at 60-65 mph. I do have cold air induction and a 2.5 inch exhaust with no cat running straight back the passenger side and out single glass pack muffler.
Bill Arrington </description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 28 Apr 2009 00:08 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1986] Where&#x27;s the best price out there for Bosch O2 sensors? -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>Go to auto zone and get a bosch sensor for a mid 90&#x27;s mustang 5.0 engine. Just make sure it is the heated one with the extra wire that heats it instantly when the car is started. The harness will not fit your car but you can clip the harness off and wire it directly into your volvo harness. I bought one not long ago and I think it was somewhere between $30 and $35 The only difference in most 02 sensors is the harness and whether they are heated or not. My works great and I really needed it because my old one was shot.</description>
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<pubDate>Mon, 27 Apr 2009 23:12 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] the values of the 240&#x27;s are not keeping pace with the cost of their repairs and parts -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>Every thing is relative. I am 63 years old and have been a car nut all my life. I have owned a lot of cars (56 MGA, 58 VW bug, 55 Thunderbird, 63 Studebaker Avanti, 69 Z28 Camaro, 74 Datsun 260 Z,) were some of the most enjoyable. Presently I have 4 cars, the Datsun Z and 3 Volvos ( 83 244 intercooled turbo, 87 244, and 90 244). I have fallen in love with 240s for a number of intangible(as opposed to monetary)reasons. So many were made and they were steadily improved each year (no planned obsolescence). The design and engineering is fairly straight forward which makes them a dream for the DIY guy. There is an abundance of inexpensive parts available on ebay, BB,TB, etc.  The people who participate in these online line forums are extremely generous with their extraordinary knowledge of these vehicles. If your car is not idling right you can take it to the shop and pay $300 for a new idle air control valve + $200 labor, or you can go online, get detailed instructions, spend an hour cleaning and lubing the old valve and be back on the road with an extra $500 to purchase that B234F 16 valve head listed on ebay. These are versatile vehicles, you can tune them to get 30 mpg, or you can mod them to embarrass most so called new sport sedans, either between red lights or on the twistys. The crumple zones make a good suit of armor to protect you from a road full of drivers who lack either the hand eye coordination or the intellect to use a clutch. A well maintained 240 will never get any cheaper, in fact they will probably increase in value as more of the rational people decide that they are not wort the repair costs and send them to the crusher (case in point, wish I still had the 55 Bird, the Avanti, or the Z28) I am retired and I get a sense of accomplishment by successfully designing and installing a cold air induction system. If I didn&#x27;t have my Volvos to tinker with every day I would probably just sit on my but watching the crap on TV, get fat and out of shape, and end up in a nursing home with no drivers license. My cars would sit and rust because none of my kids can shift the gears. Thank God for my Volvos.
Bill Arrington </description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 23 Apr 2009 14:27 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] Best place to get an ECU for an &#x27;89 240 (951) -posted by- wma45</title>
<description>I have a working 951 that was pulled from a running 90 240 till the trans died. I will sell it for $65.00 (+ shipping)with a money back guarantee (- shipping).
Thanks
Bill Arrington</description>
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<pubDate>Sat, 18 Apr 2009 15:52 GMT</pubDate>
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