http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=45853 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:39 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:39 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Oops. nevermind, Kragen/Oreilly gladly took my order, then cancelled it because the part isn't available anymore. Well, then take it off your dang order thingie. I really resent paying $160+ for one of these things, but I have to decide between broil/freeze this winter and the price of a new one. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386760&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 22:57 GMT Wow, thanks for the tip. $61 at kragen.com. Less than half what IPD/et al want. edit: search for "Ready-Aire 5864" because if you follow their model tree thing you end up with the same part for $74.99 which is really irritating because they give free shipping on orders over $75. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386239&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 15:37 GMT Yeah, it's a good deal. I'm gonna look at it tomorrow, too stormy today. Seller told me about six people have come to look at it then freak out about the stickshift or that it's not immaculate or whatever. Sheesh, people, it's a $500 car. What do you want? It seems like hardly anyone knows how to drive a standard anymore. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386238&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 15:35 GMT Yeah, rust isn't my concern as long as the body integrity isn't compromised. It'd be a beater. Mostly concerned with the turn signals, which must work to pass inspection. Worst case I can glue the trunk lid shut :) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386137&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 01:25 GMT Very perceptive, I didn't even notice it'd been smacked in the rear (not sure about the front, hard to tell from low-res craigslist images). If the interior is as nice as she claims, and the car overall runs and drives well, it's worth a few hundred $ for the drivetrain & soft parts. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386135&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 01:16 GMT $600 (but she'll take $500). Turn signals not working, trunk latch broken. Both will need to be fixed to pass MA inspection. I've been thinking about a winter beater to preserve the elegant Mrs Klankenborg (who's currently up in Portland ME getting some TLC), plus this car has some good parts if it comes to that after a few brutal New England winters. The signals could just be a fuse, but maybe the switch is bad? That they haven't replaced the fuse for the dome light knowing it's the reason it doesn't work tells me maybe it's something simple and cheap. The trunk latch... I'd have to see it, and I'm going to look at the car this weekend, but I've never had to repair one before. Here's the link: http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1459692267.html http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386133&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:30 GMT Heh. Mine looked about that good too. I'm having the front brakes done and the guy says these are now available from Volvo again, so what the hell... $50 or so, might as well as long as he's in there. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386131&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:22 GMT Well, if you change your mind, I could use both (bottom and seat back) foam pieces if they're in good shape. My covers are fine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381828&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:37 GMT Looks like it came out of a tractor ;) Where does it mount? That'd be a nice addition. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381824&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:21 GMT Hm, I guess I've got this too. A diesel-ish tapping sound that goes away, mostly, when the engine is warmed up. Barely noticeable on the highway. It sounds almost like a rod knock (which I hope it isn't!). Engine uses NO oil, though, and it gets changed every 3K w/Mann filter. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381823&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:10 GMT I had the same problem during this past summer that never was, two months of rain and squish-squish. Once started, it was fine for the rest of the day, but the next day it'd be back. I suspected the crank position sensor and ordered a new one but the problem went away on its own so I never changed it. Subsequent wet weather didn't seem to bother her. Fuel pump relay? I replaced mine but I can't remember if it happened again after that. Oh, and I just found a '93 5-speed wagon on craiglist for $995 :-) http://nh.craigslist.org/ctd/1425342583.html I might check it out... I thought Volvo didn't make any 5-speeds in '93, but maybe that was just for the "Classic" edition. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380235&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 00:47 GMT Yep, I saw that site and chronicled my own adventures with spray adhesive and a cut-up pair of pants a few months ago. http://web.me.com/dbroudy/Kilometer_Zero/Seat_Rebuilding.html Sadly the lower foam seems to be splitting further and I'm listing to port again, though not as badly as before, and the vertical split in the seatback foam is much worse now. Worst case, I can still buy new seatback foam, but the bottom cushion, new, is unobtainium. D will play with the test light some more B. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380234&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 00:41 GMT OK, thanks, I'm looking locally (NE Mass) but if I come up dry I'll drop you a note. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380233&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 00:37 GMT Corrosion has helpfully disconnected all the wires up top ;) The hose clamps are so rusted that I'll probably have to cut the hoses just aft of the clamp. Kinda makes me wonder what other rust-out surprises await... floors are dry, but there's some damp in the trunk under the carpet in the pad. New taillights, trunk seal is good, so no idea. Spare tire wells are also in good shape. The only other place there's bad rust is under the radiator support, and the radiator hasn't fallen out yet, so I guess that's good. Any ideas on maybe painting the new tank and sender top to prevent future tinworm? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380232&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 00:34 GMT Annual Volvo/Saab show in Brookline, MA http://www.swedishcarday.com/ Larz Anderson Auto Museum 15 Newton St Brookline, MA 02445 Phone: 617-522-6547 Fax:617-524-0170 Bork bork bork! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380195&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 21:21 GMT Anyone done it? I was all set to replace the dead fuel sender and pre-pump today but discovered that the entire top of the tank is rusted so badly that, even if I could have gotten the crumbling lock ring off, the rot is so bad that the top of the tank looks like it's ready to collapse. The replacement procedure in the Bentley book doesn't look too hard but I would imagine that whatever fasteners are involved are probably hopelessly rusted, along with whatever is used to clamp the filler tube. Any idea what new fasteners I'll need? Dang. This unpleasant discovery kinda ruined my weekend. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380191&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 21:16 GMT Heh. Guess who wrote that review? :-) It'd be nice if they just sold the element and not all the unnecessary wiring and switch. I know, $90, but the old heating elements were completely trashed and junkyard ones were worse. It's more than a matter of just swapping the seats esp as the backrest adjuster will not clear the center console-ette. For this job I would remove the covers and foam and swap them, as the foam on the left is trashed despite a recent refurb (the seatback foam split right down the middle, grrrr) and the right side's backrest is crooked, so I'd end up with a good left seat and a crappy right seat. No big deal, I rarely have a passenger. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380183&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 20:55 GMT Ah ok, good point. I guess I could mitigate this somewhat with new lugnuts. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380132&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 16:25 GMT 1. that would be an awesome mod! 2. I actually thought about doing this, and it's not as easy as it sounds, but I think I'll end up doing it anyway as the seat foam on the other side is in much better condition than my side. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380131&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 16:24 GMT I replaced the heating elements in the driver's seat with new ones from that IPD kit a few months ago. Now that it's been getting cold here, I want a toasty butt. But there's no heat! I checked and reseated the fuse, the light on the heater switch lights up, so there's juice going somewhere, and the connections are tight. These things are pretty simple/boneheaded so there's really not much else to check other than thinking that the new element is defective, which would be very grrrr, or the switch is bad. The heater in the passenger seat works. Any suggestions to someone without a multimeter (other than stop being so cheap and just buy the damned thing)? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380118&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 14:15 GMT Klanki has had a rough/lumpy idle since I bought her. Runs fine, no codes, my former mechanic said "Eh, they all do that. Waddya want, a f*cking Rolls Royce?" "Super! You got one?" "*%#%@*$!!" His gruff n crusty shtick wore off once I realized how badly he was ripping me off. The throttle body got cleaned this spring when the burned-out AMM was replaced (after that $5 stupid ^&^#$&%*# airbox thermostat seized up unawares to me, $500 or so for a new LH3.1 AMM later...) but I don't even know where the IAC valve is located so it's probably overdue for a rinse. I guess I could look in the Bentley book. Anyway, I finally got around to ordering a new fuel level sender because I was annoyed with having to remember to get gas every 300 miles or so. I know, big deal, but it annoys me, and I want everything in the car to work (you hear me, seat heaters?), and I found a decent price on one. The wiring connector corroded and is broken off the old sender. Being kind of a dimwit about this stuff, I realized the other day that this means my pre-pump has not been working since I bought the car and about 16,000 miles. I know! Fortunately in a moment of clarity I also ordered a new pre-pump, that sock thing, that little hose, etc. when I got the sender. So I'm just waiting for New England to warm up a little from 32F before I change these parts out and will report back whether this improves the idle quality. Oh, this place has (or had) the OEM made-in-Germany VDO sender for $138, and it arrived well-packed and within a few days. Same price as the "economy" (which to me implies "made by hungry, abandoned Chinese toddlers and bathed in their lead-tainted tears" but maybe not) sender from IPD, I think. http://www.aboveallmotorwerks.com/ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380115&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 14:04 GMT I run Dracos on my '91 w/ABS. I never knew about the special magic nuts so ignorance being bliss, I use the ones that came with the car and interchange the alloys with the OEM steelies for winter tires. So far I have not had any wheels fall off the car. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380107&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 13:32 GMT Seatbelts have lights? In those floppy latch thingies? I remember the old solid latch in the console from 80's 240s... but my '91? Oddly, the tiny lamp in the rear foglight switch never worked, until it did last week, and now it doesn't. Yesterday it worked. Today it is not working. Volvos are like that. --Volvo owner's haiku/lament I suppose I have to pull the cluster to replace one of the $9 halogen bulbs, right? All of my warning lamps work, but I was a little concerned about the one just to the right of the trip-meter reset button because it never came on during startup. Well, durrr, it's the high-beam warning, relax. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380105&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 13:27 GMT Well, I did this last month and remembered to take pics: http://web.me.com/dbroudy/Kilometer_Zero/Seat_Rebuilding.html Note that you do NOT have to remove the lower grid and springs! Man, talk about making work for yourself. The only time you do that is when replacing the wire grid. I got a new one from a Volvo dealer this summer so it should still be available. After a month of sitting on this rebuilt seat, with a split seatback foam, it's holding up OK but feels pretty hard. I would be willing to pay for new foam if it was 1) available and 2) wasn't stupidly expensive. I've dismantled enough junkyard seats to realize that this is a crappy source. Oh and my new seat heater? Doesn't. Work. Dammit. The fuse is OK, the switch lights up, but no heat from either element. They're supposed to work below 60F but I tried a coupla times on some recent 45F mornings and nothing. Le grrr. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375483&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:57 GMT Yeah, I do that too (cassette adapter) w/old stock unit and iPod. Except the cassette motor makes this "nyangh nyangh nyangh" sound so I guess at some point that'll die. My '91 240 has the amp behind the lower "storage" cubby. I wrote it as "storage" because there's a 1/2" wide vertical opening on each side of it through which small items vanish. Weird... Anyway, I was told that the '91 has the speakers wired to the amp, not the head unit, which makes replacing the head unit kind of a pain in the ass. Anyone done this? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375478&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:47 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/