http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=45774 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:27 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:27 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I'm sure it could be the motor mounts or the mounts in the rear suspension. Next time I have spare time I'll jack up the rear end and look at those. What am I looking for? Will they be noticeably bad, lots of play, or missing parts of the mounts? As for the motor mounts they should not be oily, and be intact? Thanks, WB http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384263&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 16:24 GMT Well I finally got around to dropping the drive shaft out of the 88 244 Auto w/177k on the odometer. The issue was that I've been hearing / slightly feeling a vibration when the car slows down. More prominent when the car hasn't hit OD, but is still there even then. Also a slight vibration around 52-55 that smooths at 60+. Anyway I got the shaft out, brought it to the local machine shop, and paid 60 bucks for the installation of 3 new u joints and a new center support bearing. The old joints seemed smooth to me, but the old center support bearing was very noisy when spun by hand. Put everything back together tonight, in the dark I might add, and just got back from a test drive. Everything, and I mean everything, is exactly the same. Same vibs when slowing, and same feeling around 50+. This has been getting worse over the last 6 months and I'm starting to wonder if my trans really does have something inside it going like the local Aamco told me back in June when I had the tailshaft bushing and seal replaced. What do you guys think? I've already replaced the trans mount, u joints and center support assembly... Anything else you can think of that would cause this? I haven't peaked into my rear end, but I'm not getting any noise from back there. Also I'm sure I probably need engine mounts. I'm at a loss and I really hope that the car gets us through the cold months and into Spring. WB http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384213&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 02:07 GMT Thanks guys I appreciate it. I think I'll go ahead and do the center support myself, it seems like an easy job. Plus I'm getting the idea that it is a fairly loose fit compared to most pressed bearings. I'll report back on cost for the U-Joints as I'm not going to try my hand at these. WB http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374960&rss=1 Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:44 GMT I'm dropping the driveshaft in the 244 and having the 3 U Joints replaced and a new center support bearing pressed on. I'm bringing in the parts from FCP. I've called a local machine shop and asked about the cost to which the owner said, "I'll have to look at them to give you a total." Which to me means, "I'll have to see how much I can get out of you ???." What does this job typically cost? My father and I have pressed bearings before, it takes 10 minutes and very little effort. What about the joints? Any real life cost totals would help. I don't want to loose my shirt over this one. Thanks, WB http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374322&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:17 GMT So I've been going through a moral crisis as of late. My wife and I will soon (spring) be taking on a cross country trip from New England to the other side of the country. Her 244DL has 175000 miles on it and other than needing, what I suspect, new U joints is cherry. My 88 245 5 spd is getting a little rough around the edges and has 275000 on her. I was thinking about giving in and getting another 245, but I can't find anything in proper shape that is a 5 spd. I've heard they are increasingly hard to find, but I don't want an auto for the wagon because I will be hauling a small utility trailer and they are dogs to begin with. So the question is this: Is the old girl worth fixing up proper and keeping her going for another 50k? I know she needs a new exhaust, cat included, O2 sensor, headlight buckets and lenses, front calipers, rotors and pads, rear rotors and pads, probably do tie rods while I'm in there, new motors mounts, trans mount and all new U joints and center support, and just to placate my own personal worries new rear wheel bearings (which I can't tell if it needs or not), along with rear struts. I'm sure it needs other things, but I don't know what they are yet. She starts, runs and drives fine. The 5 spd sticks a bit going into 1st most of the time, and when your not reving the engine sometimes it doesn't slide into 4th real slick, but the clutch feels good, no slipping. Another note is that I got her for a song ($117.00) from a friend and put about $500 into her right off the bat to get her on the road. Body is in good shape except that I put new hood hinges on her and can't get the hood to sit properly. The rear of the hood is about 1.5 inches up in the back. May have been hit in the front at one time. All in all she looks pretty rough outside but the interior is good. So what do you think? Sink what I suspect will be $800 - $1000 into her, or find another 245? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366189&rss=1 Sat, 15 Aug 2009 14:47 GMT 244 Auto is making a vibration when slowing down from 25mph and below. Seems to be from under the front seats and back to the rear seats. From reading posts I suspected U-Joints, or trans mount. Once I got under the car I put the trans in neutral, parking brake on and got the rear wheels off the ground. I tried to find play between the front yoke / driveshaft, between the two driveshafts, and at the rear yoke. I can't find any play in joints. The only play I have is a very slight bit in the splines holding the two shafts together. I also have play between the entire driveshaft and the rear carrier, I can feel a little gap when moving from one direction to another, but I believe this is normal??? My trans mount is coated in old trans fluid from before I replaced the output shaft seal / bushing. It feels like it is made of marshmellow near its front, and it feels "really old" in the areas that it is dry. So my question to all of you, thank you in advance for your knowledge, should I just replace the trans mount? Or should I pull the entire driveshaft and replace the 3 joints and the center support hardware just in case? Also any torque specs on the trans mount? Thank you http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365692&rss=1 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 22:48 GMT Any torque specs for the bolts that mount the crossmember for the trans? What about the trans mount? Haven't had the car apart yet, but do I need to worry about any specs for this? Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365560&rss=1 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 12:19 GMT 1988 244 DL Auto Trans. 175000 miles NOT THE BRAKES, JUST PUT NEW ROTORS ON THE CAR, FRONT AND BACK. When slowing from 40-20mph vibration which seems to be coming from either the rear of the car, or under the mid point of the car (trans). I can coast when the trans is in neutral with seemingly no vibration or noise (at least a lot less so it is hardly noticeable). I also notice that once the trans has hit 4th gear and is slowing down the vibration is lessened (almost not noticeable) until it kicks down into lower gears. Just replaced tailshaft bushing / seal / yoke, but this problem existed before. Center support looks good as well. Haven't cracked open differential to check for fluid as of yet. Thank you in advance. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364678&rss=1 Sat, 8 Aug 2009 15:54 GMT Thanks Art! That's what I wanted to hear. Appreciate it! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363271&rss=1 Sat, 1 Aug 2009 10:36 GMT Just got back from the trans shop. $250 for the bushing, seal, yoke and labor. Didn't want to fight about the yoke being bad since the cost was reasonable for the whole deal. I got the old parts back (seal shot bad) and they claim to have road tested it and it isn't leaking. Been pouring here all day so I can't really get a good eye on it, I'll take a genuine look tomorrow. Worst part is that the guy said to me, "I really hope this holds out and works for you." When I questioned him about the statement and that he seemed to be creating a disclaimer for further problems he stated, "We're honest guys here and I just hope everything works out, it's only logical that since one bushing was failing there is another to come." What a downer. So what do you brickboarders think? What are my chances of being ok for another bunch o' miles? What are other mileages you guys/gals have replaced these seals? Thanks again! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363173&rss=1 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 21:49 GMT My father, while helping, was grinding out some old sheet metal to replace it with freshly welded material. I wasn't around and the old man's hearing and sight aren't as good as they used to be. Also he didn't take out "all" the interior of my 244 sedan. Anyway sparks flew, the girl caught on fire, and he burnt my headliner, rear seat covers, nearly all the plastic from the door posts back, last but not least he toasted the door panel on the drivers side rear door. When he tried to put out the fire, with a garden hose, the corner window on the drivers side shattered due to the extreme temp difference. Let this be a lesson to you...never let someone work on your Volvo unless your in the general area. Anyone know where I can pick up a reasonable replacement window that I can glue in myself? This plastic and duct tape isn't holding that well. Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362904&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 11:57 GMT Just brought the wife's 88 244 Sedan Auto to the tranny shop to diagnose a problem with leaking fluid...a lot of it. First off let me say I'm a DIYer but I'm busy flipping our rental over, and trying to live a little this summer, so I loath being under the car for 2 hours doing the job myself. And yes I brought this on myself. =-D Anyway loosing a lot of fliud at 173,000. I figured it was the seal / bushing for the output shaft. I was right on that (thank you brickboard) but the mechanic told me that there is an 80% chance that I also might have a problem with a bushing further forward in the trans, which would require dropping the tranny and fixing. He told me that there is a lot of play in the driveshaft...which seems to be the reason why we all know to replace the seal / bushing. He didn't try to convince me to do this, but was very adamant that I might find replacing the bushing and seal a futile effort. In his words, "you might find it leaking just as much driving out of the parking lot after we repair it." OK, so my questions. Is this just a disclaimer by trans guy that if he fixes it and down the road it leaks to cover himself? Was he trying to scare me into spending hundreds (thousands?) of dollars more? Or is this a sincere worry that I might not be able to fix the leak by the very common procedure of installing new bushing / seal? I've read nothing about doing this work and not fixing the problem (pending that the DIYer screws something up). I've spoken with multiple shops that say they just do the bushing / seal and it is "usually" cleared up. What should I think? Trans shifts great, not slipping, never run low on fluid since we've owned her. All in all the car is built, as we say, like a brick. No other problems with the rig but soon to be new ball joints. What do you all say? Thanks for the reply, Sincerely hoping I know this answer http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362852&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 02:34 GMT While under the car replacing the inner and outer tie rods (88 244, ZF rack) I've noticed that a line on my ZF rack has come loose. The line does not match the lines of that on my 88 245, which I've replaced and are metal. These lines seem to be made of some sort of rubber or plastic, and the fittings can be pressed in with channel locks and some pressure. The fitting is located, lying under the passenger side, on the back of the rack. The line goes up and across to the other side of the rack, where it enters into the back of the rack. In this area the fitting is so close to a peice of the frame (or something) that you can't get pliers into the space. Silly thing is that when the fitting was out I pulled the car into the garage and haven't noticed any steering fluid...what is up with this? Power Steering fliud is full, no leaks. Seems crazy I know, but is this line some sort of venting, or what? Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357708&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 00:54 GMT I've been pricing rotors for my 88 244DL and have come up with pricing from $32 up to $60+. SwedishAutoParts seems to have the best price on rotors, but I'm a little skeptical at how they will hold up. I also don't know what brand they are. Some companies have cheap rotors too but they are beck arnley, wagner or raybestos. I don't remember having luck in the past with these brands on other makes of vehicles. What do you folks think about the situation? Would rather not spend $120 for two front rotors and then still have to do the back. Thank you in advance http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357644&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 19:18 GMT Maybe my question was a bit foggy. If the arrow isn't lit up now with the OD relay jumper installed then am I all set? If the solenoid was bad, and the jumper was in, would the arrow be lit up? Eventually I will just bypass the feature, but at this time I'm thinking that if only the relay is bad then why waste time and money for the kit. Thanks, Will http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357522&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 03:22 GMT Just picked up a 88 244 DL (automatic) for my wife. After replacing inner and outer tie rods, and patching up some holes in the floor boards I've noticed a fresh problem. The OD indicator on the dash (arrow) was always on. I got it to shut off one time but messing with the button on the shifter. Read a bunch of posts on what the problem might be and I started troubleshooting by pulling the relay (behind the dash). The relay smells burnt, and has some black scorching on the circuit board. I also looked at the wire running to the solenoid, which looks good. Dirty but all there and connected, no chafing either. Once I pulled the relay the light didn't come back on. I've read that this still means the car is in OD off mode. So doing some other investigation I read about jumping wires 87 to 15 on the relay. Made a jumper, plugged her in and everything seems normal. Arrow is still off and the engine appears to be running at a lower RPM at highway speed. So my question is...is there any way to tell, one way or another, if my OD is engaged? I can't seem to tell my counting the gears, and there is no tachometer to go by. Is this a fool proof method? Any ideas? Also have other brickboarders used the jumpers with success and just left them in permanently? I don't see myself using the OD off mode at least for the meantime. And I would rather just keep the relay out of the equation. Thanks in advance, Will http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357207&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 16:03 GMT FYI for the anyone interested: - lines are right around 30 each from Volvo dealer. Mine were ordered blind due to the fact that the numbers on the rack didn't match anything in Volvo's database. - you have to un-bolt the u bolt, which holds the rack assembly, on the drivers side to get the longer of the two hoses installed. For those of you that replied thank you for the effort. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1310508&rss=1 Mon, 27 Oct 2008 19:04 GMT Yet again I'm not speaking of the hoses from pump to rack, or the low pressure return line. I'm trying to replace / repair the metal lines that are located ON THE RACK. There are two of them, they are under pressure, and they have metal fittings. If you were to look directly at the front of the steering rack you will see both of them...ones runs towards the passenger side right on the front of the rack. Is this making sense because everyone seems to be thinking of the lines from the pump to the rack. I'm assuming my rack is similiar to others out there. Thank you, sorry about the frustration. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1308716&rss=1 Sun, 19 Oct 2008 19:41 GMT OK, so what everyone is telling me is that the hoses on my rack are not replaceable??? I guess that is the question I would like answered. If I have to replace my rack, then I may as well run it dry and let it go...and if I have to replace in the future then I'm no worse off. Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1308602&rss=1 Sat, 18 Oct 2008 21:53 GMT One of the lines on my steering rack is leaking from the fitting. The hoses should both really be replaced but I can't seem to track down the hoses I need. Can you buy just the hoses on the rack? Or do you need to replace the rack? The only hoses on FCP is the pump to rack hose, and the low pressure return hose. If it were leaking from the hose I would just slip some high pressure line over it and put some hose clamps on...but the fittings are the culprits I believe. So in the end, since the Volvo was gifted to me, and I don't want to put a 300 dollar rack on it, I was entertaining the thought of taking off my PS pump hose and running the car as is. If anyone knows a cheap alternative to find some new hoses for the rack I would appreciated the advice. Have also heard of people running into the problem of the new hoses having wrong fittings. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1308174&rss=1 Thu, 16 Oct 2008 14:46 GMT I need some honest answers here. My 88 240 leaks fluid from the hoses, and possibly the fittings, which I'm reluctant to replace at this point. I understand how, and I understand the simplicity of the job. My question is just what kind of damage will I be doing if I let the car run without power steering fluid? I'm expecting that this is not a good idea, but I would like to know why. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1306846&rss=1 Thu, 9 Oct 2008 13:11 GMT I just had the same problem with my 88 245 about 3 weeks ago. Tried to find replacement parts for it but the trouble is that if you find a parts car that has been sitting then you are going to run into the same problems. I pulled the cover, cleaned it up and filed off the rusty spots with a hand file. Once everything was spotless I washed it down and wiped it clean and then used POR 15 Epoxy putty to patch the holes in the cover. After this cured I painted the outside of the cover and re-installed it with a new gasket. Hasn't leaked a drop since then. With the POR 15 you can make it look very good without much trouble since it is pliable until it sets up. You get a good hour to work with it and then once it sets it sands / files like plaster. If this doesn't hold for good next time I'm going to use poly resin, or perhaps epoxy resin. Hope this helps. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1305028&rss=1 Tue, 30 Sep 2008 14:48 GMT I've found out a new clue and I think it is something I can work with. When the rear fog light switch is off the phenomenon abruptly stops. The car is so new to me that I thought I had the switch off, but it was actually on...not used to european cars I guess??? Anyway this would push me towards the wiring for those lights, and the switch that runs them. Any info on where the wire bundle is located...or even what these lights are? I don't see any rear lights except for the usual ones in my tailight clusters. Thanks for the info, Will http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1304466&rss=1 Sat, 27 Sep 2008 16:03 GMT Filaments in rear lights are all good and clean, pulled and cleaned. Grounds seem intact (pulled and cleaned) in both rear lights and center light for gate. I don't have any friends with a 240 so I can't simply swap out an existing failure sensor, but on inspection it looks ok. My brake lights (2 filament 1157 type) are on the bottom of my clusters, not the top. I checked to make sure the it could go no other way and I'm fairly certain it can't. When headlights are on it makes no difference if I push brakes or not, the lights stay bright like my brakes are on. BFWS light is on when lights are on, but when brake pedal is depressed it goes off. This was not happening before the car sat for the year timeframe so at first glance one would guess corrossion, or a faulty BFWS. Any other ideas? Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1302977&rss=1 Sat, 20 Sep 2008 18:54 GMT Could my ground still be bad if my brake lights, turn signals and back up lights are all working correctly? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1301060&rss=1 Thu, 11 Sep 2008 01:21 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/