http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=44619 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:07 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:07 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. That's pretty much what it means. Not a huge deal to fix. Later year's the whole heater box comes out in one piece from under the hood. Split the box open (a few screws hold it together) and off you your friendly local radiator shop. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385311&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 05:29 GMT I had exact symptoms on my 1991 Regina 745. 215,000 miles Hard start, then harder start, then no start over a period of many months. Changed fuel pressure regulator, radio suppression relay and fuel pump relay. No cure. It was the fuel pump. There's a pictorial on how to change it out there somewhere. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377768&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 02:35 GMT I believe a 1970 California 142-S should have a B-20B engine, twin Stromberg carbs with a special manifold, an evaporative canister under the hood and an expansion tank for the fuel tank in the trunk. Fuel system, brakes and cooling system might need going through if car has sat a long time. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377501&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 05:30 GMT Sorry, Bruce, in this case I don't know. It was done by a shop. For all I know the pump wasn't bad. They were troubleshooting the car's hestitant starting issues which they said was ultimately traced to the fuel pressure regulator. The shop said it the engine was fitted with a regulator for a 740T instead of the correct one. I had replaced this part myself 2 years earlier when the original one on the car started leaking at 130 K miles. I suppose its possible the local Volvo dealer sold me the wrong one.... I agree, the pump should last way longer than 70 K miles. Maybe it was an afermarket pump. Maybe today's alchohol fuels are hard on them. Maybe the shop never did replace the pump. Indeed, when I finaly got in there and took the "replaced" pump out, its solder connections looked factory-quality. Or maybe the shop was very good at soldering... There was no Volvo logo on the pump I replaced, just a string of numbers which I neglected to write down. Regards Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368627&rss=1 Fri, 28 Aug 2009 03:08 GMT I have a 91 745 Regina with 215K miles on it. About a year ago it started to take a few times to get it to (cold) start in the morning. Later the car would still start this way, but the idle was a little low and I had to pump the pedal a few times to clear it. It would start on the first try when warm. But the idle would sometimes drop when sitting at a light with the A/C on. All in all, though, the car seemed to run fine, but it bugged me that I was wearing out my starter every morning. BTW, the fuel pump, pressure regulator and fuel filter had been replaced 5 years ago at 145K miles. Then, one day the car wouldn't start. It would try to run, cough and die. My trusty 740 had left me standed for the first time in 17 years. Very unsettling. Diagnostics were all normal. Nevertheless, I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump relay behind the ashtray and radio supression relay under the hood by the left strut tower. Still no go. Bought a new fuel pump and put it in. Problem solved. Starts right up on the first try cold or hot. Idle is fine under all conditions. I bench tested the old pump with a battery on the terminals and it still pumps. But I guess it didn't pump enough to 1) start the car properly and 2) eventually degraded so the car wouldn't start at all. So you might consider the fuel pump a suspect. Regards Bill in PHX http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368528&rss=1 Thu, 27 Aug 2009 18:14 GMT Hi, Jerry. I have admired your pristine 123 for years. The rims on my 1968, made-for-export 123 are stamped "Volvo", "Export", and "670429". They are also date stamped 10/67 which gives me some confidence that they are original to my very early 1968 123GT. I have measured these rims across the outer edge to outer edge of the rim, and this dimension is 4.5". I have been told this means they are 4-inch rims, presumably because the actual rim size is determined by the distance in between the 1/4" thick rim edges? I am running 165/R15 Vredensteins. Hope this helps. Bill in PHX http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360228&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 16:41 GMT Hi, Jerry. My steering box was leaking too, most obviously from the drop shaft which connects to the pitman arm. Suggestions: Get a really good puller for the pitman arm Take the box out of the car You might replace the steering colunm bushings while you're at it The horn wire re-thread isn't a big deal: Use wire to pull the wire through Don't overtorque the 3 bolts holding the box onto the frame. There are shims to adjust the bearing load under the square cover Beware of corroded surfaces as Eric noted which might eat up your new seals. Use new spiral locking washers for the bolts when assembling the box Most books have good instruction on how to proceed. Regards 123 in Phoenix http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1345408&rss=1 Thu, 23 Apr 2009 03:29 GMT I agree with the other post, the rear rotors should come off without protest. Did you remove the locating pin sticking out from the hub which helps guide the wheel onto the hub? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1342761&rss=1 Thu, 9 Apr 2009 03:09 GMT Here's some data on my 1991 745 (non-turbo) January 2005 test: (all values in "grams/mile") HC: 0.28 Standard = 1.0 CO: 5.32 Standard = 12.00 NOX: 1.71 Standard = 2.5 March 2007 test: HC: 0.15 CO: 4.28 NOX: 1.73 January 2009 test 1: HC: 0.33 CO: 6.10 NOX: 2.52 (failed) New plugs, cap, rotor, found a few suspect vacuum lines. Checked and found no error codes. January 2009 test 2: HC: 0.30 CO: 6.05 NOX: 2.77 (failed) Bought a new Cat from IPD for $185 and installed. Never been changed before, car has 210,000 miles on it. January 2009 test 3: HC: 0.25 CO: 1.23 NOX: 2.07 (pass) I didn't think a Cat had anything to do with NOX or CO, but it certainly helped in my case. Good luck 123 in PHX http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1342688&rss=1 Wed, 8 Apr 2009 21:11 GMT In the interest of keeping them on the road, there is a newly-arrived, largely-intact, unrusty 2-door Canadian 122 in Andy's yard at Revolvo in Tucson. It suffered a fire under the dash, and the right front fender is lightly dented, but it is all there: engine, trans, etc. Regards 123 in PHX http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1342684&rss=1 Wed, 8 Apr 2009 20:53 GMT Are all your instrument lights normal? The reason I ask is that my 91 745 will make a horrible screeching sounds if the ignition switch doesn't come all the way back to the correct position upon starting. (original switch on a high mileage car). Simultaneously, certain warning lights on the instrument panel illuminate (including the SRS failure lamp). If I manually move the car key back from the start position to the run position, everything is fine. It's probably a worn return spring in the ignition switch which keeps the starter motor engaged when the car is running, but I haven't bothered to look into it since the workaround is simple. I may change my mind on this after the airbag goes off in my face... Regards 745 in PHX http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334395&rss=1 Fri, 27 Feb 2009 17:04 GMT George is right, but it can be done. There is a description of the procedure in the manual. You need a set of long bolts to hold the crossmember in line as you lower it. The problem is the oil pump: the pan won't clear it unless the crossmember is lowered out of the way. Good Luck 123 in PHX http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334169&rss=1 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 06:16 GMT Run two nuts onto a single stud until the outermost one is 1/4" past the stud's end. Tighten the two nuts together, then put a wrencn on the inner nut and screw the stud out. Put some penetrating oil on each stud the night before to help smooth the removal. Installation is the reverse process. You might want to put some loctite on the studs before installing and perhaps even chase the threaded holes in the head with a tap for good measure. 20 ft lbs sounds like plenty for the stud bolts. Be sure to use the special thick washers where called for. I bead blasted my manifold, then submerged it in mineral spirits to ensure all grit was off before painting. If you sand between coats, you should get a presentable finish. Regards 123 in PHX http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1333201&rss=1 Sat, 21 Feb 2009 01:17 GMT I wish I could help you, but I only got the B20 pump, not a B-20 tube. The B18 tube fit well, it was just a matter of easing the 2 ends of the tube into position, while checking the 2 rubber seals were fully seating, and simultaneously mating the base of the pump squarely onto the block and aligned with the tapped holes. Regards Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1327184&rss=1 Thu, 22 Jan 2009 20:27 GMT I recently put a B20 pump marked "VOLVO 1000254" in a B-18. The B-20 pump is taller, but its oil tube outlet is in the right spot to connect it back up using the old B-18 tube. You need new seals for the tube and have to make a slight cut out in the oil pan baffle to allow for the larger B20 pump body. I sure hope I'm right on this, because my engine is now back together in the car, though I haven't started it yet! Regards Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1327014&rss=1 Thu, 22 Jan 2009 02:36 GMT Thanks, fellas. I'll check with them. Regards Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1325084&rss=1 Tue, 13 Jan 2009 04:22 GMT I understand new seals are unavailable. What are people using to try to restore/maintain the ones they have? Is there some product you can apply onto the seals to bring them back to life? Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1324960&rss=1 Mon, 12 Jan 2009 19:58 GMT I also think the 140's are under appreciated. Volvo took years to come up with a successor for the 122. What they ended up with is a clean, spacious, reliable, efficient automobile combining quintessential, timeless Scandanavian design with legendary Gothenberg tank-like construction. Upgrading your 122 brakes? 140 already has boosted 4-wheel disks. Upgrading from B-18 to B-20? Comes standard with the 140. Want better seats that recline or have headrests? The 140 has you covered. Need to haul stuff? The 140 trunk is cavernous. Safety important to you? Remember that ad where they stacked 10 cars up on the roof of a 140? On the other hand, nothing beats a 122. As of mid December, there was a nice, white, 1-family owned, 1970 142 with a for sale sign in the window in Willamette Heights in Portland. But it was an automatic. I can't remember exactly, but it was near the intersection of the NW Vaughn and 31st Ave on a dead end street. Hopefully someone will save this one from being parted out or.... sent to the crusher. Regards http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1323296&rss=1 Sun, 4 Jan 2009 21:18 GMT Hello I recently serviced the flame trap on my normally-aspirated B230F engine. To do so, I removed the throttle body and intake manifold. I used new gaskets to reassemble and also replaced any hoses which looked tired. It may not be related to the above work, but shortly thereafter I began to notice the temp gauge barely gets out of the 1/4 range. (The needle has always been in the 1/2 position once the car is warm.) The ambient temperature is in the 40's and 50's. The other symptom is noticeable upon starting. The initial idle is way too slow, about 300 rpm compared to the 650 rpm it usually runs at. I have to give it a little gas to avoid stalling. Once on the road, the car runs fine except for the low temp gauge reading. Any ideas on what I might look for to solve this mystery? Thanks 740 in Phoenix http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1320974&rss=1 Mon, 22 Dec 2008 18:06 GMT Hello. I have a 1970 142S with a factory 4-speed. I believe its an M-40. Will a M-41 + Overdrive unit fit within the tranny tunnel without modification? What about the transmission support and drive shaft? I hear the bellhousing is a direct bolt in. Thanks if you can help. Regards New 140 owner http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1318623&rss=1 Wed, 10 Dec 2008 00:27 GMT I agree, the 740 is a much more reliable choice. Notable wear items on our 740 wagon (210 K miles and counting) include the front thrust rod bushings, A/C compressor, water pump, and radiator. Plus all the plastic bits in the interior tend to disinegrate in the hot sun. The wagon will hold an amazing amount of stuff. Change the oil and timing belt at the recommended intervals and the car will run forever. Put Bilsteins and and sway bars on if you want a firmer road feel. I heard that the sunroofs in the wagons can leak. If you can find a wagon without a sunroof, that's a plus. Good Luck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1316170&rss=1 Tue, 25 Nov 2008 23:08 GMT My 91 745 started rattling after about 100K miles or so. I took a suitably sized washer and tapped it lightly in between the heat shield and the exhaust pipe. No more noise and that was 109K miles ago. Regards Bill Phoenix http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1311239&rss=1 Fri, 31 Oct 2008 01:32 GMT Eric, are the parking brake links the same on each side or are there left and right ones? On my car the J part of the link on the left side wheel was ground off to "make it fit" by the last knucklehead. I found a replacement link, but it is identical to the undamaged one found on my right rear brake (although it was installed incorrectly just like Mr. Happ's). So...if I install these two identical links such that the J's are on the back of the rear shoes as you instructed, then on the right brake, the top of the J points up, and on the left brake, it points down. Do I need to find another link so the J's both point up (or down) or is this of no consequence? The Green Book isn't clear to me on this point (or maybe I'm just slow...) PS Its a Girling setup like the one under discussion and in photos on this thread. Thanks Bill Phoenix http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1311145&rss=1 Thu, 30 Oct 2008 16:15 GMT What good fortune to find a complete and unmolested example! Hat's off to you. I'm curious about the "S" codes on the 123 VIN plate. Mine says "S 5314 , 5343". I think 5314 means GT, but don't know about 5343. What does yours say? Regards AGP http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1296686&rss=1 Wed, 20 Aug 2008 01:42 GMT I saw the restoration photos. Hat's off to you for your incredible workmanship and attention to detail. I guess I would second the opinion, if you had the space and inclination, you might want to hang onto such a fine example of the marque. BTW, can you tell me where you sourced the new Volvo windshield? Mine was replaced once upon a time, and is now scratched and in need of eventual replacement. Are new rear windows also available? Regards AGP 1968 123GT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1292257&rss=1 Mon, 28 Jul 2008 20:16 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/