http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=44326 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:44 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:44 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Several months ago, I cut my suspension springs (actually, I cut a spare set, so I still have the original springs) on my 1987 244. 2 1/2 coils in front and 2 coils in the rear. I did a lot of research, and from what I read, those cuts seemed low but safe. For the first couple of weeks of driving, I noticed that a wheel alignment would bring my steering wheel back to center, but everything else seemed fine. My tires weren't wearing out, and my gas mileage remained the same as before. However, after I jumped in the car and proceeded to leave my work, I noticed that the car was pulling very hard to the right. I couldn't figure out what it was, and I soon took it in to a shop for an alignment. The shop called me back, said I had a blown steering rack; the tires pulled hard to the right when lifted up on the rack, and an alignment wasn't prudent or that necessary. So I spent a LONG time trying to find a manual rack for a decent price. I finally found a remanufactured power rack from Auto Zone for $170, and I was sick of waiting on individuals who said they would sell me one, but didn't get around to business with me. I installed the new rack, with new tie rod ends, and took it in to the same shop. They did the alignment, which was now badly needed due to my poor ability to bring my steering into any sort of "ballpark" alignment when installing the new parts. However, after doing the work, they reported that the car was still pulling to the right. I was in the shop, and I walked out into the garage to take a look under the car with the mechanic, and the only guess that we had was that one or both of my front springs had unseated, and lo and behold, it looked like at least the right front spring was unseated from at least the top retainer. I guess that makes sense. So now (whew!), my question is: Do I need short struts to use my shorter springs, and does anyone have a recommendation for such struts? Or should I cut my stock springs a half coil higher and install them, or do I need to buy the actual "sport springs" from IPD? I understand that the firm springs are better at lower ride heights, but the whole point was to save some money - I havn't bottomed out, and I don't race or drive the car that hard. In general, as far as bound and rebound, I like the feel just fine, and of course lower ride height is noticeably more enjoyable to drive. I plan on lifting the front up just a bit to see if I can knock the spring back into the retainer (as a temporary fix, of course), but doesn't anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for reading, Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370373&rss=1 Sat, 5 Sep 2009 20:57 GMT Well, I put the car back together after taking this opportunity to do the timing belt and front engine seals. I replaced the belt cover and fan shroud. I ran out of time before I could reinstall the splash pan, but that'll go back on ASAP. I feel uneasy now about tightening the stock nuts on the fan/water pump studs, but they're on until I can go and get some locking nuts. Thanks for the input. Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344875&rss=1 Mon, 20 Apr 2009 13:23 GMT Yesterday, driving along in my 87 244, my mechanical cooling fan simply fell out of my car going about 40 mph... I was convinced that something in the road had jumped up and chopped it off (maybe a little dwarf gladiator???), but when I returned to pick it up, I couldn't see anything. This was after I had realized that I was driving pretty recklessly on some gravel roads, and that I had left my timing belt cover off. I was thinking how terrible it would be to have a small rock lodge itself right in there with my crankshaft sprocket, then this happened. The 87 is new to me, and I had left all kinds of plastic covers off after the initial inspection, and had not yet installed my splash pan, thinking that I was going to get to do a lot of work done(engine seals, crankshaft pulley, timing belt, etc.) a lot sooner. I'm thinking now that the nuts holding the fan onto the water pump may have simply gotten loose over the last month or two of driving, but still, is driving without the fan shroud, splash pan, and timing belt generally unacceptable? It's good that I had saved an extra fan, clutch, and water pump pulley from my parted '85, otherwise I'd be up poop creek, if you know what I mean. My wife thinks all the stuff in the garage is just junk laying around... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344358&rss=1 Fri, 17 Apr 2009 19:39 GMT Yesterday, driving along in my 87 244, my mechanical cooling fan simply fell out of my car going about 40 mph... I was convinced that something in the road had jumped up and chopped it off (maybe a little dwarf gladiator???), but when I returned to pick it up, I couldn't see anything. This was after I had realized that I was driving pretty recklessly on some gravel roads, and that I had left my timing belt cover off. I was thinking how terrible it would be to have a small rock lodge itself right in there with my crankshaft sprocket, then this happened. The 87 is new to me, and I had left all kinds of plastic covers off after the initial inspection, and had not yet installed my splash pan, thinking that I was going to get to do a lot of work done(engine seals, crankshaft pulley, timing belt, etc.) a lot sooner. I'm thinking now that the nuts holding the fan onto the water pump may have simply gotten loose over the last month or two of driving, but still, is driving without the fan shroud, splash pan, and timing belt generally unacceptable? It's good that I had saved an extra fan, clutch, and water pump pulley from my parted '85, otherwise I'd be up poop creek, if you know what I mean. My wife thinks all the stuff in the garage is just junk laying around... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344356&rss=1 Fri, 17 Apr 2009 19:37 GMT Alright, well, I went to the salvage yard today, after managing to get by with the wife's car all morning... I found several 240s, and I picked one that didn't have too much of a puddle around it, after all the rain we've had recently. I really didn't want to pull apart the whole suspension, so I simply removed the six retaining nuts (three on each side), and took a hammer to the top of them until they disappeared. I found only one out of the six that made it down to the ground, but that's all I needed. I'll end up putting everything together tomorrow morning. I looked around this morning, and saw that I could probably get the whole top strut retainer from FCP, but from messing around (and breaking things) last night, I know that I don't need to buy everything for the sake of one stud. Thanks for all your help. Regards, Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1341753&rss=1 Sat, 4 Apr 2009 03:06 GMT Has anyone replaced these before? Where can you find replacement parts quickly? I was bending up some conduit for the upper strut to firewall braces, and I tightened down on the strut retainer stud, and it just snapped! It's going to be a pain to get all the way into the front suspension on a junkyard, car, but that's looking like my only option. Please help! thanks, Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1341583&rss=1 Fri, 3 Apr 2009 13:52 GMT This is awesome. Immediately after reading this, I went to Lowe's, bought the specified parts (however using 3/4" pipe), and completed the upper braces within a few hours (including another trip for some more dremel cutoff wheels). The EMT is easy to work with, and it's a lot of fun, since I've been wanting to get better at metalworking with my limited tools. It sounds like the lower braces make the most difference in feel, so I can't wait to take care of them soon. But, just the uppers do make a noticeable difference. Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1341491&rss=1 Fri, 3 Apr 2009 00:23 GMT That's incredible. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1337734&rss=1 Sat, 14 Mar 2009 21:29 GMT I am not completely sure of this. Tomorrow I'll go out and take a closer look, but I don't remember seeing such a tag. A friend of mine, who took the M46 off of my hands, advised me on this, saying that my differential had only one ring cast around the lower front, whereas most had two rings. I think that I'm set on taking it out, regardless. It's the last thing I want to remove, and maybe I'll at least keep it around and use it in a homemade buggy later... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1336935&rss=1 Wed, 11 Mar 2009 01:30 GMT wow... that's amazing. I wish I could turn my car upside down, then drag it to the street and let the crane pick it up. Unfortunately, I would have multiple complaints against me on many charges by the neighbors. I'm in a very populated neighborhood in a St. Louis suburb (in IL), and I at least have to take care of my short concrete driveway. I think I've done pretty well, though. I've taken apart the dash and removed all the interior plastic, seats, transmission, the top half of the engine, the complete steering system, both fuel pumps, all the brake calipers and e-brakes and brake booster and master cylinder, door locks, window regulators, door handles, glass, front fenders and grill, and all of the good lights. Even a seatbelt. The only things I have had any trouble with are the front strut springs. As soon as this differential is out, it'll be pretty empty and I'll be satisfied. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1336930&rss=1 Wed, 11 Mar 2009 01:22 GMT Hi there everybody, I'm getting close to throwing my car to the junkyard, and besides the engine (previous post), there's not much left. I'm thinking about removing the springs, front and back, and maybe cutting them and having an extra set to mess around with. Also I was advised that I have a 1031 differential (limited slip), which is somewhat desirable, from what I understand. I understand roughly how the suspension and the drivetrain work, but I just havn't done this before, so here's the question: What's the most I can remove from these two systems before the car can no longer roll onto the tow truck? thanks, Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1336213&rss=1 Sat, 7 Mar 2009 17:52 GMT It's fairly easy. The window crank handle just unscrews and pulls right out, and so does the armrest/interior door handle. Just be careful with the little plugs; they're easy to crack and gouge away at, so use the smallest utensil possible, if they look good right now. After the door panel is removed, if I remember correctly, it's easiest to crank down the window regulator to the window's down position. It's easiest to work on at a lower height. Just use your fingers or a small flathead to unclip the two metal clips (similar to the clip at the wiper motor, if you've done that) on each side of the rack. The remaining glass and the retainer may be difficult to pull out, since it's most likely original and formed to the rubber in there, but just be strong and yank it out. Installation is the opposite of removal... You probably won't need any of these hints once you look at it. The job is pretty self explanatory once you see what's holding everything together. I do have extra glass and hardware, if you can use any of it. - Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1335758&rss=1 Thu, 5 Mar 2009 20:42 GMT I'm very close to having my 1985 244 completely parted out. I have all the good seats, dash parts, icu & cpu, sold the transmission, amm, and a rear axle, and swapped the ignition parts, fenders and headlights over to my 1987. All that's left is to remove the fuel pumps and fuel pressure regulator for a 245 that I may purchase for $275 (very little rust, has a fuel delivery issue). I may salvage the brake booster, master cylinder, and blower motor as well. So all that's left is the engine. 216,xxx miles, doesn't leak a drop, all new front seals and timing belt... it ran wonderfully before I decided to junk the body of this car due to rust and getting rear-ended. Do I just let it go to the junkyard? My 1987 that I just got has only 156,xxx miles, so I don't need it for myself, unless I decide to keep it as a rebuild (turbo?) project, which I'm not inclined to do at this point. Is it worth it or not? - Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1335703&rss=1 Thu, 5 Mar 2009 16:11 GMT yep. http://www.brickboard.com/OPINIONS/?id=1334068&rss=1 Wed, 25 Feb 2009 22:09 GMT I do indeed have a catalytic converter... good as far as I know. I removed it, mangling up the surrounding pipe as I did. I also have the silencer and the muffler, all in separate pieces. I will be redoing the exhaust on my new 240 (1987) soon, so I do have the complete exhaust system available for sale from that car as well. Just let me know what you'd rather do. thanks, Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1332829&rss=1 Thu, 19 Feb 2009 06:48 GMT I have two, since I made my own to replace the stock deck, which was a bit rough. It was cut (rectangularly) to accommodate some 6x9 speakers. The other deck I have is intact, although it looks like it's stained pretty badly. It might be good if you have intent to re-cover or paint it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1332788&rss=1 Thu, 19 Feb 2009 00:36 GMT I'm parting out my 1985 244 (beige interior, B230F engine with M46 transmission). Have lots of parts left... Also I frequent a small PnP in Caseyville, IL (just outside of St. Louis) called Black Lane Salvage. Last time I was there, there were 3 or 4 240s and at least 1 700 or 900. I'm getting ready to make another trip sometime soon, so let me know if I can pick up anything extra. http://www.brickboard.com/PICKNPULL/?id=1331773&rss=1 Sat, 14 Feb 2009 15:36 GMT Dukester, just replied via email. Please look for the same subject line. thanks, Josh http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1331716&rss=1 Sat, 14 Feb 2009 06:35 GMT The interior is tan/beige. The rear seat belt reel covers on this car have crumbled away, and I recreated them by flattening them out, making a stencil, and making new ones out of cardboard, duct tape, and then covering with fabric held by headliner adhesive. They turned out quite nice, but too nice to not transfer to the new car... I'd be happy to make a pair for you, or even simply cover the new (deteriorating, from the new car) covers with some nice fabric, beige or otherwise (mine are beige with dark red paisley). The other items - sorry, it's late and maybe I'm just not thinking - but what do you mean by the hat deck carpet behind the seats, and the sedan covers? thanks, Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1331715&rss=1 Sat, 14 Feb 2009 06:33 GMT Besides the AMM, alternator, starter, water pump, and some trim, at this point, this is a complete car. Was rear-ended a while ago, and on top of the rust, the body isn't worth keeping (at least in my book). Let me know what you need, and I'll be happy to extract and mail the parts to you for a reasonable price. thanks, Josh in IL 618.363.1422 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1331078&rss=1 Wed, 11 Feb 2009 14:47 GMT Yes, it was the same four square headlights style from maybe 80 until 85. I think the big soap bar headlights came in 86. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1329634&rss=1 Tue, 3 Feb 2009 16:44 GMT Getting ready to swap a grille and headlights from my 85 244 into my new 87. Besides the ugly soapbar lights, the light retainers are damaged and the grille is missing from the 87. I'm also considering swapping the hoods and the top front cross beam that the hood locks into. Are there any issues that I should be aware of? I'm thinking that this will be a pretty fast and easy job. thanks, Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1329623&rss=1 Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:30 GMT I was rear ended a while ago in my 85 244. Smashed up the taillight, punched in the bumper's shock absorber on that side, and knocked the rear quarter panel back about an eighth of an inch. The car is still in driveable condition overall. I purchased an 87 244 with 156,000 miles for $225 (including delivery from 45 minutes down the road). It's got a couple of dings, and the interior is a little trashy, but it still purrs like a kitten on the 3 year old gas that it was left to sit with. Also, 99% rust free. Anyways, until I move over some of the trim and get the car registered and everything, I swapped the taillights so that I was legal after dark in my 85. The new taillight assembly is almost immaculate. I was sure to reconnect the ground wires and I made sure that the main connector was snug. Both new taillight fuses blew before and after the new taillight (I can't find my manual to tell what other applications they're for, but I know that the instrument cluster is also out due to the same fuses). Any ideas? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1329619&rss=1 Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:25 GMT I'm finally getting around to fixing a batch of small clocks for a fellow brickboarder. I've had them laying around for a while. Anyways, I don't have a dremel tool, but a large pipe cutter worked very well for cutting open the case. I cracked a circuit board on the one with which I was too hasty - I tightened down too much on one rotation, and it bent the case in just a tad; it made the extraction of the circuit board a very tight fit. So I'm replacing the capacitors: they're marked "100/16 M5," so they're 100 uF. I read a post suggesting replacing with "220 microfarad 35 VDC... Radio Shack p/n 272-1029." I suppose I'll try it, although I'm not sure if the difference in values is an upgrade, or because it's the closest match available. My biggest question is: does anyone know the value of the resistor that's in the circuit? The one that I could read well looked like brown(1) red(2) brown(1), with a silver tolerance band. Is this correct, and is my judgement of 120 ohms also correct? I don't plan on replacing all of the resistors, but on one clock the resistor was burned completely out of the circuit, and fell into my hands when the case was opened. The colored bands were burned from visibility. thanks for reading, Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1321173&rss=1 Tue, 23 Dec 2008 20:06 GMT Well, first, thanks to everyone for your input. Just yesterday, I got a call back from the total loss agent. Everyone here told me that I must negotiate over whatever their first offer is, but I was expecting something piddley, less than $1000. The agent told me that they value my car at $2250, and the buyback was only $150! I was so surprised, that I just went right on and accepted it. I was told that I'll get a check sometime before the end of the week for $2075, so problem solved. If I didn't mention it before, I was dealing with the St. Louis branch of AAA. I'm quite happy with the results. Thanks again, Josh in IL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1317561&rss=1 Wed, 3 Dec 2008 21:57 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/