http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=44115 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:52 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:52 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. paul that is an excellent post, thank you. now do you think that it was a bad move of me to silicone the wiper motor guard like i did yesterday? how is the putty any different than the rtv? and are the cleaning holes those which you described earlier, the round plugged up seemingly useless spaces at the base of the car? also, where is the ac drip pan, and could a leak be associated with it if even my ac wasn't hooked up (which it isn't, considering i removed it after an accident a few months ago? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379931&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 19:26 GMT Heya everyone, here's a quickie about my troubleshooting solving my newest funenjoyable challenge with the SS Blue Meanie: I noticed a LOT of rainwater making its way into front passenger floor and the rear driver's side floor. Probably also the rear passenger but there's too much crap there for me to bother to check. Anyways after some research on this board I checked out the vents and windshield, the later of which is definitely a cause as the rubber is really coming apart there. Also, a bit of water comes in thru the passenger wiper motor. So I'm going to silicone-seal the hell out of the windshield whenever it dries. The rear cargo-area window leaks as well, but i've siliconed that up pretty well and it seems like it's not so bad. So it's gotta just be the windshield, but here's my question -- how can i tell if it's the vents which are also leaking? I dumped water into the hood vent ("cowl vent," right?) and watched it drain out those little holes underneath the car, about four per side. No water is coming out of the round and curved rectangular plugs on the inside of the car, as Paul/Inga wrote they might do in a post a while back. A lot of leaves and crap came spilling out of the guts of the center dash when i started to remove the carpets, so maybe something is blocked, but if so where would the water spill from? I've searched the board and can't find out where the leaky culprit would be. Most likely it's just the windshield but I don't want to take this apart twice, just asking if anyone can gimme a place to look real quick. Also, the white box-like structure behind the lower center dash (i think below the heater core) has this opening facing the front of the car, a hatch of a door with a screened area behind it. I guess this is the air intake for internal circulation? anyways lots of leaves coming out of here, despite the grill. No water tho. Can someone tell me what this is? Manuals aren't helping right now. THANKS A LOT EVERYONE!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379706&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 21:46 GMT i had one this same year, here are issues I had: trunk leaks from the tail lights. reverse lights won't work. tricky to solve. brakes wear out quickly. check the rotors. vibration when you brake. not sure why but it's automatic so that's most likely it. oh what else...no idea. good luck http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379587&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 15:23 GMT the link just got a little screwey when he html-ed in here. look up and delete the first half, it just has the same URL as this page, so just cut it out. basic fifth grader knowledge here, geez. anyways, great idea! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379586&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 15:15 GMT PROBLEM SOLVED! thanks for the help everyone. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378602&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 20:33 GMT no it doesn't. but thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378384&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 19:35 GMT DOT 4 I believe. you're gonna need some anyways if you bleed the lines/replace the octopus/master cylinder (they leak, give it a look) you don't want air in the lines, make sure you get some in there ASAP then you can deal with it later (procrastination fixes all car problems - for the time being). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378270&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 06:41 GMT uuuuhhhhhhhhh thanks for replying, maybe i just don't got the ability to understand what you wrote but this still doesn't make any sense to me, lemme clarify if possible: the stereo has wires for four speakers, I have only two. do i wire BOTH negatives and BOTH positives of each side of the stereo's speaker wires to the volvo's speaker - doubling them up? OR do I just pick either the front or the rear speaker wires of the stereo to wire to the volvo's speakers? Thing is that the older aftermarket stereo indicated i double up the positive terminals of the stereo with the positive of the speakers, but that aftermarket stereo (from what I can tell) only has/had ONE negative terminal per side/channel, thus corresponding easily to the two-speaker system i had/still have. my wires are pretty nicely labeled, by the way, and I have the diagrams so there's no confusion of which wire is which. The issue is what do I do the extra (-) terminals coming from the either rear or front set of speaker wires coming from the stereo. (again the question is, do I double them up to the volvo's speaker wires/harness, or just exclude them and an entire side &#091front or rear&#093 from the volvo harness?) does this makes sense? sorry if I sound pedantic or demanding. Thanks for reading and helping. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378268&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 06:32 GMT New stereo, aftermarket; the aftermarket stereo i had in there has a filter and fusebox which were part of its own wiring harness, but the new one i just bought doesn't. Does that mean I should add the old one in to the volvo's wiring harness, or just leave it out of the equation? This particular radio DOES have a fuse right there inside of it up where the wires connect. The new stereo's instruction manual (new used, of course) shows that those particular wires are to connect to the 'car's fuse box'. It seems to me that this black box labled 'filter and fusebox' which came with the old aftermarket stereo is no longer necessary, but i am not at all sure of this. Please help if you've an idea. ALSO: anyone know how to wiring the darn thing? my car has two speakers, and after undoing the old connections i've lost track of what went where (the whole process seems unpleasantly inebriating), although i managed to connect the positive wires of each side correctly to each side's wire on the Volvo side. The thing is: where do the negative ones go? I'm all out of wires now on the Volvo-side. do the stereo's (-) wires for the REAR speakers need to be doubled up with the Volvo's (-) speaker wires? I got the wire diagrams but that ain't much help. It seems like a no brainer, but for some reason my old stereo didn't double up the wires but for the positive ones, yet i didn't have any odd wires loose. UM, does anyone know what i'm talking about? THANKS YOU GUYS! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378220&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 01:18 GMT IPD-bought. are they crap? do tell! thx http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375149&rss=1 Sat, 26 Sep 2009 01:49 GMT dang. too late! well not really. anyone wanna buy some rubber TABs? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375068&rss=1 Fri, 25 Sep 2009 18:55 GMT yeah well......shucks, i think i'm just going to wait until i meet someone with a bench grinder and then make the tool myself, courtesy of your tool design. I bought the bushings directly from IPD's store in portland and even then, 3 months ago, they had ceased renting their tools ("people kept stealing them" they said. which is funny, considering there was a hefty deposit for the rental). thanks for your thoughts. Now here is a separate question: if I replace my springs and shocks without doing the TABs, will the springs and shocks wear out faster with the janky bushings still in there? I don't know how the rear suspension actually works but it seems like if the TA is supporting the whole shebang (springs n shocks) and it is wonky then it's gonna give more force to those components therefore making them wear faster. this would be for a few weeks of heavy cross-country driving with a ton of crap in the back until i managed to make that tool and actually do the bushing job. I have new bushings for the track and torque rods, which i think i can do with a c-clamp and blowtorch (right?), maybe that would help a little? please tell me your thoughts. THanks!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375067&rss=1 Fri, 25 Sep 2009 18:53 GMT Point taken. had i known that before i bought my bushings....well things would be still be the same because i'm a cheapskate. the cost of the polyurethane would only be 'cheaper' than buying brand new tools, however, considering the bushings i bought from IPD were about 24 dollars for the rear end versus 240 dollars for the urethane....i could buy some really nice tools with 216 bucks....and then i would have some nice tools for the rest of my life, instead of nice parts on a car that is going to end up in a junkyard some day. except that's not what i want. can't it be done with a really big C-clamp and those pipe fittings and a set of vice-grips? just lube the hell out of the sleeve after cutting the bushing out, push and pull it out with the clamp and hammer and vice grips, and then push in a new one with a hammer and clamp after cleaning out the socket and greasing it up? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375057&rss=1 Fri, 25 Sep 2009 18:23 GMT OKAY REAL QUICK-LIKE NOT TO TAKE UP TOO MUCH TIME WITH REDUNDANT DISCUSSION: I "think" my TABs are shot, because my car is 23 years old and has about 212,000 miles on her, and the rear end sags like an old lady's you-know-what. I haven't removed the TA to get to see them but yeah, no reason to think they've survived this long. I have new rubber bushings, i want them in, and i want them in last week. I don't own a grinder, i probably can borrow a drill and a blowtorch, i have a hammer, i can buy some clamps and hacksaws and hole saws and other simple tools. Can i do this job without the homemade TAB tool (can't make it cuz of no grinder) and without the Volvo special tool? this is all i need to know. I've searched the boards but the only DIY method that is free of the special tools involves the hole saw but retaining the shell of the original TAB and then (hammering? not clear) pushing in the urethane bushing in its place. can you do that with rubber? okay thanks for your advice! happy weekend http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375044&rss=1 Fri, 25 Sep 2009 17:33 GMT second that. no idea what the reason is, all i can comment on was that i needed a new tail light cuz mine had a cracked lense and i had a DMV inspection coming up, and the one i replaced it with from the picknpull had the melted plastic problem, although the bulb is INSIDE the light fixture, and the problem of connection was solved with a beer-can electrode. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375041&rss=1 Fri, 25 Sep 2009 17:22 GMT THANKS JORREL. I am doing some investigating and I think it was simpler than I feared: fuse is blown. replaced it and the switch engages, light comes on. no reason to think that it won't run now, although no test drive has been done yet. The blue wires may have shorted when i closed the parking brake (i noticed something wierd happen last night when i did just that) and overloaded the fuse. so i am gonna tape them up real good now. if that wasn't the case then i guess the wires on the tranny iself shorted out (the 5th gear relay). Reverse lights come on fine. Or perhaps it was the 4th gear switch which shorted? if she goes into 5th then you won't be hearing from me again today. Beware the chipmunks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372091&rss=1 Sun, 13 Sep 2009 20:40 GMT Long story short: I've been parked on top of a mountain for the last two months, and we've got a lot og ground squirrels up there, they are relentless and chew crawl climb and get into everything, INCLUDING MY CAR. They actually climbed up on top of the transmission and proceeded to chew a hole up through the insulation and the rubber thingy around the shifter and into my car!! Not sure the extent of the damage but at the base of the parking brake i noticed that a small bundle of wires, 2 blue ones which lead to some sort of clip, hyave been thoroughly chewed on although still intact. it's very possible that they've touched since running the car, or that the black wire nearby have touched them, maybe shorting something out? (I haven't checked the fuse yet in my haste). Or else there are some wires below the shifter which have been chewed? If so, what are my options? can i patch wires and it will work or will I have to do some major overhaul? This is mega-urgent as i'm now leaving my summer job for the forest service and have an 1800 mile drive ahead of me!! Please let me know what you think. Thank you so much!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372075&rss=1 Sun, 13 Sep 2009 18:49 GMT okay so after driving this beast (1986 245) around in the hot eastern oregon wilderness for the last month with a leaky heater hose i got some time off work and replaced it finally. however Baxter Crappy Auto Parts has this really janky rubbery hose which twists and kinks easily and it basically sucks, it has kinks in it after doing the dog-leg bend to go around the intake manifold so the heater really sucks now. I will likely buy the IPD hose when i get a chance. BUT can anyone comment on... 1.) installing the hose was a pain in the arse. the tubes to put the hose on are really corroded. is there a trick to putting it on, like one particular side first? i will sand the rust off when i replace this baxter-sourced hose. 2.) is the official heater hose necessary or can i just route the hose closer to the manifold and not behind the oil-check tube, thus getting less kinkage? cool i will check back whenever i get the internet access again (not often lately) Thank you mucho a lot. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366394&rss=1 Sun, 16 Aug 2009 20:48 GMT shannon that was beautiful. now let's hope that, while highly informative, this lesson is entirely extraneous to my needs at hand. I'll check the hoses at the firewall as best i can, and otherwise just keep my eyes on the fluid level during my 250 mile drive tomorrow. thanks for the advice! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359664&rss=1 Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:54 GMT while replacing the tranny mount on my Blue Meanie 1986 245 recently i noticed that i have a coolant leak. at the bottom apex of the bell-housing thing just rear of the drip pan along the drivetrain i see coolant gather up and drip very slowly. i checked my overflow tank and yes, it was empty (!), but i don't recall seeing the temp gauge go up so let's hope it didn't. anyways, anyone ever had this kinda leak and where did you find it coming from? i have not a single clue, this is far beyond my experience. just let me know if you've seen this before. THANK YOU!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359549&rss=1 Mon, 13 Jul 2009 07:24 GMT in the bay area (CA) i've seen a lot of tach's at the pickn'pull, but i doubt you're anywhere near there. some dude was selling one on craiglist today here in portland but i doubt he'd ship, and it was expensive ($30). good luck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359548&rss=1 Mon, 13 Jul 2009 07:17 GMT first thing is to check the fluid level. does the pedal travel further than normal or is the light coming on when the braking feels normal? if low fluid then everyone's ideas are correct. i would recommend checking the junction block (AKA octopus) too, it is a notorious leaker. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359385&rss=1 Sun, 12 Jul 2009 03:32 GMT Basically i just need to know what size the transmission mount (M46) NUTS are because my tools limited and i don't have any deep sockets nor any box wrenches larger than 15mm. Also can anyone comment on getting those nuts off? they are on extra tight and the one that is accessed via a hole in the crossmember seems like it will be impossible to remove, due to the shape and size of the hole and the position of the bolt/nut. just checking, please lemme know about that tranny mount nut size if you know (i think it's 17mm but not sure) THANKS!!!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359382&rss=1 Sun, 12 Jul 2009 03:01 GMT THIS ANSWERS ONE OF MY QUESTIONS! I was eyeing some cinderblocks about half an hour ago as i was needing (am still am) some jackstands, but then i thought about how not-strong they looked. there are some bricks laying around, but they seem too able to shift cuz they're so small.... thanks for saying this http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359380&rss=1 Sun, 12 Jul 2009 02:54 GMT Quick poll: who here would rather use KYB Gas A-just rear shocks instead of Bilstein Touring? Both are quite cheap up here in Portland (36 or 37 for the KYB and 41 for the BT and NO SALES TAX!) and I just want to know what the common consensus for most people around here was. The Bilstein Touring seem to be notorious for their mis-sized bolt hole which rattles on a lot of 240s. If I can avoid that I will; the KYBs don't have too much general criticism, but then again, all it takes is one failure. the four dollar difference is not an issue to me. just asking, please respond if you have a strong opinion (otherwise i'm just gonna install the BTs because I already bought them). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357302&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 00:31 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/