http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=44031 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:08 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:08 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Let me also add my success with the rope trick to your tally. I did it a year and a half ago and have had no problems. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367745&rss=1 Sun, 23 Aug 2009 22:36 GMT Time to call the History Detectives! I love that show. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365943&rss=1 Thu, 13 Aug 2009 23:15 GMT I had the same setup when I did my inner tie rods. I solved the problem of the punched-in tabs by drilling into the tabs... afterward, I used a pipe wrench to turn the tie rods off. I used blue loctite on reassembly, like you, and since then have put a couple thousand miles on the tie rods with no problems! Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365885&rss=1 Thu, 13 Aug 2009 18:27 GMT I had this happen to me, but it was the passenger floorboards, front and back. I traced it to a leak in the trunk (my Volvo is a 740 sedan) that allowed the water to wick up under and through the back seat material and soak the carpet on that side. The dead giveaway that the leak was in my trunk was that the cloth toolbox in my trunk got very wet, and the tools inside began to corrode. There are many other places the water could have come from... I'm sure the 240 folks on the BB will chime in any time now. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363930&rss=1 Tue, 4 Aug 2009 20:11 GMT Yes, Aleekat, I still have the scans - actually, just today, I passed them on to another Brickboard member! I also have a Haynes manual now, so I have access to the printed diagram. I'm clear on how to adjust the height (and now, having just been able to adjust my sunroof to 'vent,' now I actually can), but my question is if that is the correct approach. I'm looking for a shortcut, instead of spending a few hours trying to find the problem by making numerous adjustments. The gasket is not new, I think it is original... but that makes me think: The PO said the sunroof was 'sealed,' six or eight years ago, but that is obviously not the case; the sunroof was stuck from lack of use and some corrosion. I fixed the sunroof by re-aligning the crank, which had skipped several teeth, and by slowly working the sunroof back and forth until it retracted. I wonder if the seal was replaced when the sunroof was 'sealed,' and the PO misunderstood. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363141&rss=1 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 18:10 GMT Hi folks, After about 3 inches of rain in a few hours, my 740's sunroof liner is a little wet. I can see where the damp has wicked from the corners of the sunroof and bled onto the headliner. The sunroof has been sticky, still - I only got the sunroof unstuck a couple months ago, during a dry spell - and it has not wanted to go into the vent position (it only retracts). While I was investigating the wetness I just found, I saw that the passenger side rear of the sunroof left a tiny open seam between the gasket and the surrounding roof - enough that the deluge might have flooded the drains and caused the dampness on the headliner. I turned the sunroof crank toward the vent position to pop the rear end of the sunroof up a bit, but, like always, it was very stuck and didn't want to move that way. I forced it quite hard, felt and heard a POP, and suddenly found I had normal movement of the sunroof both ways. The sticky spot was gone. I seem to have seated the sunroof better, now, but I can't tell if I have sealed it better than before, or if that was even the original problem. One long-standing issue that I have had with the sunroof is that the driver's side of it is too high, and now the gasket can get caught as it comes down from vent position (requiring me to strike it gently to get it down enough to retract). The FAQ talks about sagging, but not about over-elevated sunroof problems. Would raising the passenger side make the driver's side less 'cocked' upwards? I feel that raising the passenger side would help it seal anyway. Thanks! Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363123&rss=1 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 15:59 GMT Mine appeared welded, if I remember correctly. Perhaps a pencil torch could weld an AM one and solve the issue? Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363111&rss=1 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 14:22 GMT That's not cool. At the time, I figured $32 for an OEM part was too good to be true, so I expected an aftermarket part. I was completely confused when I saw a Genuine Volvo logo on one of the packages in the sea of foam peanuts... took me a sec to realize it was the breather box. I said, "Nice!" Then I said "Bummer!" when I discovered I needed to order an o-ring, since the breather box didn't come with one like it said it did. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363007&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 21:16 GMT Haha, you misunderstood, I meant that the OEM breather box I got in April '08 is still looking new, after 16 months of intense service. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362991&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:26 GMT My order in April 2008 was probably one of the last to receive an OEM breather box from FCP. Came in a Volvo-badged bag, without o-ring (d'oh!) and seems perfect, knock on wood, nearly 16 months later. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362956&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 16:41 GMT I did this just a couple days ago. For me, the fill and drain bolts were no problem, but a friend of mine is doing the same job and has decided to get some EZ-outs and a replacement bolt before he tackles it. Make that judgment call for yourself. Make sure you have 2 quarts and that your friends haven't stolen one out of your workshop (happened to me!). I used the 3/8" clear hose I found at Autozone, about 4 feet long, with some Valvoline synthetic blend oil. I snaked it up through the wheel well and held the bottle upside-down and squeezed it gently. CAUTION! If you squeeze it too hard, the hose will pop off the tip! Your pants/shoes/driveway will be VERY stinky for days! Takes a long time for the honey-thick oil to drip in there. You will see it start to leak out the fill hole when you have maybe 1.25 quarts in there. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362238&rss=1 Sun, 26 Jul 2009 20:52 GMT This is from the 700 FAQ, but I would assume that at least some things overlap. Maybe a good starting point. <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalLightingHorns.htm#LampDiagramandPartNumberCharts" target="_blank">Lighting chart</a>. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361916&rss=1 Fri, 24 Jul 2009 21:59 GMT Hi folks, This is one of those times when I simply do not know how a perfectly running Volvo 740 is supposed to behave. I just got through with a test drive after replacing a fuel line and repairing some leaks in the rubber boots on the hard plastic lines. Good news is that I no longer smell gas from the rear wheel well, nor when I take the in-trunk access panel off. Everything appears tight and dry. One thing I have noticed is that I don't get a 'pssst' when I open the gas cap. Other cars I have used always had a little vapor pressure behind the gas cap after running. I assumed the lack of pressure behind the cap was because the pressure was vented by the leaks. Now, I am wondering if I got all the leaks. Is there a mechanism in the Volvo system that prevents vapor buildup? Thanks! Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361826&rss=1 Fri, 24 Jul 2009 15:57 GMT Yeah, I learned my lesson here. I figure that doing this ONCE in my life is OK. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361447&rss=1 Wed, 22 Jul 2009 19:10 GMT If the thread is that bad, it may be necessary to put one of those 'sleeves' in the head. Barring that, have you used a thread chaser in the threads? Thread locker may mess with the heat dissipation properties of the mechanism. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361297&rss=1 Wed, 22 Jul 2009 01:52 GMT I think I'm going to play it safe. Thanks for the advice. I guess Mom and Dad are lending me their Honda again! Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361271&rss=1 Wed, 22 Jul 2009 00:16 GMT Hi folks, Seems I can only find one of the gear oil quarts in my workshop - a friend of mine must have taken it without telling me. I didn't realize this until I had already drained the gear oil out of my differential. I have one new quart in the differential now, and it appears to me that more could be added. I stuck a bit of wire in there to check the level, and it is way below the fill hole, with the car on a slight forward incline. Is it safe for me to drive the car with the diff this low on fluid, at least to town and back to get more oil? Thanks! Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361237&rss=1 Tue, 21 Jul 2009 22:33 GMT Thanks for the tip, Steve. My fill plug was OK last year when I checked the fluid levels, and it appears to be well-lubricated from a leak coming from the fill plug area. Perhaps I didn't screw it in well enough after the check. My interest in the differential was due to this recent wetness on the back cover (but not from the pinion seal area). Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360861&rss=1 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 02:05 GMT Hi folks, I'm confused. I see a ~15mm (haven't put a wrench on it) bolt head on the bottom of the differential case, pointing straight down. It's behind the lip created by the diff cover flange, so I didn't see it until I nearly poked my eye on it (story on that later!). Is this the drain plug for the differential? Thanks! Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360855&rss=1 Mon, 20 Jul 2009 01:49 GMT Use the homemade engine lift from the Special Tools part of the FAQ. This is the one I made for $35 at Lowes: <img src="http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/8626.jpg" /> Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360312&rss=1 Fri, 17 Jul 2009 00:16 GMT If I see that correctly, there is a puddle directly under the thermostat housing, on that ledge on the engine block. I had that too; gingerly tighten up your thermostat housing. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360309&rss=1 Fri, 17 Jul 2009 00:12 GMT Dave is nice to deal with over e-mail; don't hesitate to drop him a note if you don't see what you need on his Web site. <a href="http://www.davebarton.com/">http://www.davebarton.com/</a> Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360301&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 23:54 GMT A friend of mine tells me that this thingy I asked about is a rollover valve. Also, I found some serious corrosion, and a second leak, on one of the small metal outlet nipples... seems the end of the hose clamp on the fill tube was in contact with this metal nipple, and the nipple is extremely corroded. The 'excess' from the hose clamp is adhered to the nipple. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360297&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 23:10 GMT Drain a pint or two from your cooling system before you pull that switch to replace the gasket. I didn't, when I replaced the sensor, and got some alarming spillage. Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360279&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:19 GMT Hi folks, I've made a bazillion posts this week. I appreciate all the responses I've gotten, and I hope that one more post won't be a burden to the Board. I have yet to find a comprehensive guide to the components of my fuel system, but I believe I have discovered a leak at the junction which appears to be clamped to the underside of the tank access hatch on the right side. I always have a gas smell at my driver's side rear wheel well, especially after driving or running the car. Putting my nose in my sedan's tank access hatch, I can smell raw gas. The smell is strongest right where that junction is, yet I can see no staining that would be indicative of a gas leak. The different parts of the sender and hose assembly do not smell strongly of gas, and are not wet. I ran the car and climbed in the trunk, but could not detect a visible or audible leak. As an aside, my tank and main pumps sound quiet and happy. No visible leaks anywhere along the fuel piping, and I did my best to look everywhere. So this leads me back to the junction 'box' hidden on the right of the hatch. What does this do? How do I check it out? There appears to be a nipple of some sort on it, is this a pressure relief valve or something, and could it have gone bad? Thanks! Ari http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360275&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 20:58 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/