http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=43964 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:17 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:17 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Here is documentation on the 850's ABS and TRACS system. Remember you have to drive the car at least 25MPH to actually reset the ABS light and exit diagnostic mode... http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/service/850/AntiLockBrakeSystemAndTractionControl.pdf http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1360736&rss=1 Sun, 19 Jul 2009 12:30 GMT As much as I wish it was the AC, it's not. Just drove around with it turned off. Without moving the gas pedal, the engine will in turns act throaty & powerful and then act subdued. It's a little more than subtle. I can live with it, but worry that something's about to go... http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356403&rss=1 Wed, 24 Jun 2009 21:29 GMT Sounds like my '84 850. Same deal. I had a clogged PCV system which forced oil all over the place. It even soaked the sound-deadening liner on the bottom of the hood. Then the oil oozed through the liner and dripped out at all the low points, and where it touches the turbo air lines over the top of the engine. You may have oil under the spark plug cover as well. So far, it's been some weeks since cleaning out the PCV and there's still oil coming out of the liner. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356137&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 21:08 GMT That's a little weird. I'd park it on a clean surface outside run the engine and pump the brakes every now and then for a few minutes. Then look on the ground for signs of brake fluid. Do the brakes work OK? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356133&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 21:01 GMT Well, this vehicle is like playing Whack-A-Mole; every time I fix something another problem surfaces. The car runs pretty well. Cleaning the entire intake system made a big difference. See 'Stinky Exhaust' for the backstory. Now, acceleration is 'weird'. The engine revs up smoothly but seems to have power lags. And it's cyclic. Holding the throttle steady, the engine has little power, then good power, then little power and then good power up past about 3200 RPM where it seems to even out to good power. I would guess vacuum problem, but can't locate a leak. Any ideas?? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356025&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 13:10 GMT Shocks should be fairly easy to compress except for gas-charged. They should be MUCH harder to extend. If you don't have to pull very hard on them (and they don't feel like they are resisting you) you should get some new ones. Also, do you remember your rear end hitting bumps hard? That's a sign of bad shocks. Replace them with what you can afford crossed with the performance you seek. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1355741&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jun 2009 00:06 GMT Disconnecting the battery on the '84 did not reset the codes for the ABS. You have to reset and then go driving. Not sure if this sequence holds true for the '97. Anyone??? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1355690&rss=1 Sun, 21 Jun 2009 19:13 GMT Did your indie reset all the codes and then let you drive and then check the codes again?? Because you state that the ABS light was never reset from when you changed the pump the first time... I tell you this because on my 1994, you have to reset the ABS system and in order for it to leave diagnosic mode and turn off the ABS light you have to get the car to above 25MPH with all systems GO. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1355607&rss=1 Sun, 21 Jun 2009 12:44 GMT This is fun, answering my own posts. Anyway, over at Bay 13, I was reading about O2 sensors and the last line says "Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to reset the fuel adaptives". What the hell are those?? But thinking that I have had the battery disconnected for more than 10 minutes with a totally screwed-up EGR and PCV system, I thought, "What the hell!" And, suddenly, I'm back up to approx 24MPG. Stinky exhaust case closed, knock on wood... http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1355445&rss=1 Sat, 20 Jun 2009 12:52 GMT Techron is a Chevron product for cleaning injectors, intake system. MAPP gas is used in small torches and burns hotter than propane. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1355135&rss=1 Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:54 GMT I just fixed mine. It is basically as shown at matthewsvolvosite. Carefully hacksaw the strike (U-shaped wire) that the latch hooks into. Take the entire latch out of the door. Look at how the mechanism operates. There is an oval piece that should have a round pin sticking out and that pin breaks off. Then it can no longer operate the latch. What I did was measure the diameter of the pin (you can see the remains) and drill out where the pin attached. Then tap the hole for a machine screw. Using a tread locking compound, screw in the machine screw until it stick out far enough to engage the latch. You will have to buy a new strike. But you glove box will look as good as ever! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1354924&rss=1 Wed, 17 Jun 2009 22:09 GMT OK. I finally got around to tearing off the entire intake system and cleaned it all. PCV was clogged at the big intake tube where there is an electrical connection of some sort. What is it? EGR was clogged. Cleaned it and checked operation of valve. OK. And there is no more smoke or stinky exhaust. Checked everywhere for vacuum leaks with MAPP gas. None found. Mixed up a tank of Techron. No codes. Now the only remaining problem is terrible gas mileage. Less than 20 MPG. Used to run at around 24 even with the stinky exhaust. Any ideas?? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1354901&rss=1 Wed, 17 Jun 2009 21:04 GMT Best way to test for leaks in vacuum & PCV??? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1348198&rss=1 Sun, 10 May 2009 13:29 GMT OK. What are the top candidates for stinky (rotten egg) exhaust? Along with puffs of smoke. All advice welcome... http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1347787&rss=1 Thu, 7 May 2009 11:16 GMT While investigating a no-start condition, I pulled off the spark plug cover and discovered pools of black oil on the castings in the valve cover. Further inspection revealed a hole in the valve cover. It looks like there should be some kind of fitting, but can't locate a exploded parts diagram. Take a look and let me know what the part is called or if I should just plug the hole. http://www.steelydev.com/ebay/PA300004.jpg http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1315463&rss=1 Sat, 22 Nov 2008 14:22 GMT Car still dead. Anyone have any other suggestions? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1311744&rss=1 Sun, 2 Nov 2008 15:07 GMT Tried to clear codes by disconnecting battery for 20+ minutes. Codes still there. Decided to check spark plug/wires based on your current thread, Klaus. Found lots of oil and an apparent hole in valve cover under spark cover. And pools of oil. There is almost no oil in moat around filler neck and oil cap has new gasket, which happens to be super-tight. Assume oil is coming out of hole. Please take a look at this picture of my valve cover and let me know if there is supposed to be something in the hole.... http://www.steelydev.com/ebay/PA300004.jpg I'm sure this has nothing to do with my no-start condition. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1311150&rss=1 Thu, 30 Oct 2008 16:45 GMT Jumped out relay with no new results. Again, there is pressure on the fuel rail; it comes right up to around 45psi when cranked. Even though I can't hear fuel pump whirring. Too many years, not enough hearing protection... What's my next move??? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1311138&rss=1 Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:24 GMT Thanks, Klaus. Here are the codes 435, 132, 241, 433, 435. Don't see a no-start condition code. The O2 sensors may be due to low voltage, low voltage may be due to cranking the SOB. Could the EGR be the culprit? Will erase codes and continue with: 850 20 valve turbo, the codes should be the Motronic 4.3, correct? Champ 6- will jump out the relay now... Stay tuned... http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1311123&rss=1 Thu, 30 Oct 2008 14:48 GMT Hello! I have a 1994 850 turbo. The other day it was running fine and now won't start. -engine cranks and sounds like it might start -seems to be spark at the coil -giving a burst of starting fluid into manifold via vacuum hose connection tree yields a couple of seconds of running engine -45 psi on the fuel rail What would be my next move??? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1310991&rss=1 Wed, 29 Oct 2008 22:07 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/