http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=43420 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 01:06 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 01:06 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. White Post charged me $225 with $20 shipping. So far so good!! Turn around time was lightning quick. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385764&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:32 GMT The speedometer on my 67 130 is now bouncing gently as I drive (never used to do that) and both the trip and regular odometers have stopped turning over. My transmission is an M40. Just had the transmission rebuilt with new output bearings and seals. I'm guessing it's related to this as the speedometer cable goes into the housing at the back of the tranny. Thoughts? Comments? Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379996&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 23:42 GMT Update on Brake MC. Sent it off to White Post Restoration on a Saturday. Called them that next Thursday to see if they had received it and how it was going. They said they had already rebuilt it and it was on its way back to me. So their turn around time is fantastic. Looked great when it got back to me and is now remounted on the firewall and is providing a nice, firm pedal feel, I'm guessing for my miles to come! Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379994&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 23:38 GMT YES! You are living in the same world as I!!!! My 67's number is 133441-272839. She came off the assembly line sometime around April-May-ish 1967 and is exactly what you describe. With Volvo trying to meet new new US Federal Regs, they added and updated here and there. (I'm guessing as the old parts bin on the assembly lline ran out, they simply brought in the bin with new parts and started bolting those on.) I've got a red light on the far left of the dash that seems to be part of the new braking/safety system, it used to be connected to the brake-fluid junction block on the top of the fender inside the engine compartment near the old booster. It's now unhooked and the light just sits dark and lonely. As far as the brakes, the old Lockheed booster was unhooked from the system on my car when I bought it. I decided to go the non-orginal, yet safe route and bought a brand new Lockheed booster and mounted it generally in the same location. Doesn't look great, but I do notice a nice boost when braking severely, there's extra front end dive as the booster is only hooked to the fronts, but still a nice extra push in panic mode. Question for anyone--- for these dual MC---does it matter which line goes to the front brakes and which line bypasses the booster and goes to the back? Best of luck with your Amazon! :-) Patrick. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379992&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 23:34 GMT I'll be removing the leaky MC to send up to White Post, VA for a rebuild. My skill level is fairly competant. Is there anything I need to keep in mind as I drain the fluid and begin to unbolt the MC from the firewall? Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369299&rss=1 Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:56 GMT Yes! Windshield info!!!! Excellent!!!! But here's my follow-up question.....what's the deal on clear or green? Was that an option? Did they change from one to the other in some model year? My 67 130 was built in the spring of 1967, late in the run. Frankly I really can't tell if my has the green color or clear. It's old and delaminating. Thoughts? Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363020&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 22:26 GMT My dear 122S is also....."one old Amazon"!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360124&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 01:16 GMT An excellent question and point for discussion!! My 67 130 came off the assembly line in Pearl White (79). The wife of the owner I bought it from chose an early BMW color--Laguna Green Metallic (BMW code 266). I think it looks quite sharp, especially with the tan/nougat interior. So I'm also struggling as to whether to keep it or take it back to Pearl White. All the lovely chrome bits stand out nicely with a dark color, but the originality is lost. The White and tan interior is very 50's-ish. Good luck with your choice!! Pat. I'm having posting my pic, if you go over to Brickboard Picture gallery and look under "technical", you'll see her in all her green glory. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360121&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 01:00 GMT Excellent, gentlemen! This is what I was hoping to get! Thanks!! I do have the dual header pipe, not a single and the timing is spot-on and she runs perfectly. Now it's time to save for a sport exhaust! Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359473&rss=1 Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:33 GMT More of a general car question....has anyone found any improvement in HP in wrapping up their exhaust manifolds with the fiberglass-looking wrap available at local car parts stores? B18's don't exactly run extemely hot, but will I/could I expect "better horse power" if I wrap them up? Perhaps cooler underhood tempertures. I don't have any sport exhaust system, just stock. Thoughts? Pat W. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359365&rss=1 Sun, 12 Jul 2009 00:07 GMT Sorry, that sounds rather obscene. Of all the things I've done to my '67 130, M40, B18.... I haven't used the grease gun to properly shoot grease into the proper locations. Can someone shed light on where to do this? Am I just not seeing the proper fittings on the axle and other locations? And is this where I get to use the word "zerk"? Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356421&rss=1 Wed, 24 Jun 2009 23:06 GMT Upgrading hi/lo beam switch to stalk. My dad loved his '66 130 until he was left in the dark on a 2 lane road in 1970. He always complained about that darn footswitch being the culprit. This past trip to see him, I presented him with the footswitch that came off my '67 130. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356365&rss=1 Wed, 24 Jun 2009 19:26 GMT I agree with the above post. I've got a 67 also and when I bought it, the booster had already been bypassed/disconnected. I removed the booster since it was just taking up engine compartment space. I've posted two pictures over on the Picture Gallery of what my setup currently looks like. BUT!!!! I plan to replace the booster with Lockheed Booster when $$ becomes available. I so highly recommend checking ALL braking components---rotors, pads, flexible brake lines, hard metal brakes lines, drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, etc, etc. You don't want corrosion, brake fluid leakage, etc. If you feel comfortable doing all the work, cool. I'm good for some mechanical work, but I left the brake work to my main mechanic. (highly knowledgeable and expert on older vehicles) Brakes are the last thing to do poorly or hurriedly. Stopping is good thing!! Safety has got to paramount with these wonderful old cars!!! Best of luck with your Amazon!! Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350034&rss=1 Fri, 22 May 2009 17:16 GMT I'm going to be replacing the foam pieces in and around the heater system. Any interesting and/or unique facts I should know before beginning? Anything weird I will run into that's common to these heating systems? Thanks! Pat. PS... I had the only 122S at Road Atlanta this past weekend during the vintage races! I was lonely! There were two gentlemen who arrived in an 1800ES and a guy in a 1800 Coupe, but no other Amazons! I posted a picture of my sole 122S parked under the Swedish flag! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1347973&rss=1 Fri, 8 May 2009 13:50 GMT I'm taking my sweet Lily out for her first roadtrip down to Road Atlanta so she can get to play with other vintage autos. Anyone from Brickboard going too? Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1346158&rss=1 Mon, 27 Apr 2009 17:54 GMT Was going through my receipts and found the one from when I rented the steering wheel puller... Autozone Part Number 555516-27017 "Steering Wheel Puller Set" $13.00 to rent it. Returned it after using for a full refund and it worked like a charm in seconds with no fiddling, wiggling or excess pulling. Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1346157&rss=1 Mon, 27 Apr 2009 17:51 GMT Does anyone have any extra cute little 25A fuses they'd liked to sell me? (Sorry to coattail onto this thread - Best of luck solving your wiper issue) Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344753&rss=1 Sun, 19 Apr 2009 20:51 GMT IMHO--you really need a proper steering puller. I tried the method of simply wiggling and pulling and got nowhere. Autozone Part # 27017 Steering Wheel Puller - worked like a charm in seconds. And it was returnable for full refund. There's a recent thread about this topic a few weeks ago. Best of luck. Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344183&rss=1 Thu, 16 Apr 2009 21:46 GMT Saw the message below about issues related to difficulty shifting into 1st. I'm looking at a specific ES for my dad. 'cept when you put the gear lever into any gear on this example it still wobbles around as if it's in neutral, even though it appears to be in gear. From the previous post, it sounds like there are replaceable parts to cure this....does the transmission have to be removed though? I'm less familiar with these cars than my beloved Amazon. Thoughts. (and yes, there probably is a thread somewhere on this board already discussing this! Sorry to ask again!) :-) Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1343828&rss=1 Tue, 14 Apr 2009 19:22 GMT Found my reciepts, but as always double, double check dimensions on what you have...But... For my late model year production 67----Wheel cyliders #670404 from VIP, Brakes shoes #271813 from Swedish Treasures. The wheel cylinders are 7/8" diameter (I think that is the outside diameter, but not too sure on that.) You really need to also know the distance between the two mounting holes on the cylinders that match up to the holes in the backing plate. With the star wheel ebrake adjusting those are the shoes based on how the rods on the adjuster meet up with the brackets on the shoes themselves. Hope this helps! Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1343823&rss=1 Tue, 14 Apr 2009 19:11 GMT Ah yes good points, Ron. The spring(37) probably isn't keeping the brass contact#34 up against part #22. I'm just a bit hesitant to try to "pull" out the wire and possibly stretch the spring. I've got the circlips under the head of the brass contact part doing what the tension of the spring probably is supposed to do (raising the brass contact up higher.) I will investigate this further! Also, yea I will attempt to clean the internal contacts on the horn. Thanks! Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1343215&rss=1 Sat, 11 Apr 2009 17:52 GMT I've got those same drums on my late 1967 2 door. They're Wagner Drum brakes and use shoes and wheel cylinders from earlier models. Not Girling! I was tripped up by that for while. Be careful because the wheel cylinders have different dimensions between the two mounting holes, also the cylinder diameter is different is unique for these. When I get home, I'll find receipts for all the hardware I bought and post it. Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1342931&rss=1 Thu, 9 Apr 2009 23:18 GMT Thanks for all the thoughts!! I've got the horn working!!!!! Here's the lowdown....Ron you may want to mention this in you article... It turns out that the brass "nailhead-shaped" button at the end of the wire coming up through the steering column was being somehow forced down into the black tube-collar and NOT making contact with the proper part of the switch. Not sure how but it was. I fixed it by using two circlips gently wedged under the "nailhead-shape". This very nicely raised up and forced the brass button to make definite contact with the proper side of the switch. More than likely from the beginning that's all that was the matter! All the wiring was intact and there was very little corrosion that I cleaned up with a bit of sandpaper. But it does turn out that the one horn on the passenger side was corroded and inoperative. Argh! I've taken it apart and it appears the contacts are burned up to an extent. Not sure if they can fixed? But also-----I've successfully installed the hi/lo beam relay and now I've got full control on the stalk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yippee!!!!!!! Ron's instructions were the key!!!! Thanks, Ron! Time to celebrate!!! Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1342929&rss=1 Thu, 9 Apr 2009 23:09 GMT Having trouble getting my horn to work. I bought a new foam ring and installed it and have confirmed my wires are not shorting, but I'm a bit lost. Does anyone have pictures/directions on this area? I'm also a little hazy on how exactly the horn is activated using the silver part of the steering wheel. I've also confirmed that the horn really works by connecting directly to battery (temporarily!). Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1342717&rss=1 Thu, 9 Apr 2009 00:16 GMT All good thoughts! I'm going to leave it be for now. Save my pennies for proper cylinder head rebuild, etc... Pat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1342339&rss=1 Tue, 7 Apr 2009 14:12 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/