http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=43331 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:41 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:41 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. You've got a bad ground somewhere. But where it is, is anybody's guess. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369262&rss=1 Mon, 31 Aug 2009 19:23 GMT Hey, I was under the car today messing around with the *&^%$#@ shifter bushings (1992 245) and I noticed the crossmember that attaches the transmission to the frame has some rust perforation. I either need to weld some plates on there or (better yet) replace it outright. Where can I get one? It's strange because the car is otherwise nearly rust-free. It must have gotten scraped a long time ago and had time to deteriorate... anyways I want to take care of it before it goes any farther. thanks Thaddeus http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366411&rss=1 Sun, 16 Aug 2009 23:39 GMT Where do people usually mount these things? Out in front of the A/C condensor? Seems... tight. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362064&rss=1 Sat, 25 Jul 2009 20:21 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362063&rss=1 Sat, 25 Jul 2009 20:20 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362062&rss=1 Sat, 25 Jul 2009 20:20 GMT Hey, I'm thinking about putting in a transmission cooler. I'd cut the line leading from the transmission to the radiator and route the fluid to loop through the cooler. I want to cool the tranny but also bring down the overall temp of the car, so I want to splice into the line that leads away from the tranny so the extra cooling of the tranny fluid takes place before it hits the car's radiator. Which line do I tap, the top or bottom one? Put another way, which of the metal lines is 'send' from the tranny, and which 'return'? thanks Thaddeus http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361986&rss=1 Sat, 25 Jul 2009 11:36 GMT My temperature gauge was acting funny ever since I bought the car... It would move from very low to very high in unpredictable ways, although never into the red zone. Last night I pulled the dash pod, removed the compensator board and jumpered pins one and three... now it acts the way a temperature gauge is supposed to. I'm very pleased. It took less than an hour. I can actually see what my engine is doing. My car now has full instrumentation. Since I bought it, I've fixed the odometer, added a tach, oil pressure gauge, and voltmeter. All very useful, and make me like the car some more. My only beef is not having an analog clock: however, I may have a solution to that, I will post pics if it works out. TEMP COMP BOARD DELETE: MOD RATING (scale of one to 5, 5 being best) Expense 5 Usefulness 5 Ease of execution 5 Aesthetic effect N/A cheers Thaddeus http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360175&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 10:37 GMT Come on, it's just a car. Spray paint the parts and reassemble them. Bolt it all together correctly before you start the engine so you don't destroy something or get hurt. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360087&rss=1 Wed, 15 Jul 2009 19:38 GMT I'd leave the black. Like most other stuff on these cars, it's functional: reduces glare/reflections onto the windows. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359624&rss=1 Mon, 13 Jul 2009 17:21 GMT I'm ordinarily not a negative sort of person, but... Are you planning on using the Lincoln Weld-Pak unit, as opposed to the commercial grade? Sheet metal is really hard to do with one of those Lincoln consumer units. It's hard to do, period. And you might not have the level of control you need with undersized equipment. Also: I'd make darn sure the metal on your car isn't of the galvanized variety. You breathe zinc fumes from welding galvanized metal, you can die, simple as that. Destroys your liver and whatnot real quick. Might be a lot better idea to replace the fenders, instead of trying to repair them. You'd still have to do some welding in the tail, but it would be a manageable amount. 2 cents worth of advice... from another amateur welder. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358093&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 11:22 GMT I'm thinking about a Mirage 5.5, which is a little bit big to call a dinghy but it's still pretty small.... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357857&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 20:01 GMT Hey, I'm thinking about buying a sailing dinghy, figure about 1500 pounds including trailer. Can the 245 handle towing it (no mountains, I'm in Minnesota). Thanks Thaddeus http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357792&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 14:12 GMT The sprocket came today, and I slapped the thing back together... very carefully. I actually own the special tool that allows one to counterhold the pulley while LOOSENING the bolt... so I used it to counterhold the thing while I tightened it, too. It works both ways. LOL. Thanks for the advice... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357683&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 22:27 GMT Really! I thought the B230F was interference. One less thing to worry about. I'm all about having one less thing to worry about. :D http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357096&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 23:59 GMT "Someone" was me. Stupid dink that I am. I'll fix it and that will be amends enough. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357090&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 23:15 GMT Thanks man, that's a relief. Hopefully it will just slide off when the time comes. I don't have the heart to mess with it any more today. Actually, the good news is that I came within a few seconds of losing a timing belt and the engine as a consequence.... so, actually, it was a lucky day. That's a really weird noise when the balancer goes 'off''... kind of a wugga wugga wugga... and most of the lights on the dash went on too. My kid (who has his learner's permit) was driving... I heard the wugga wugga and saw the lights, and told him to pull over and turn off the engine. He was quick enough I guess. Still, what a pain... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357080&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 22:24 GMT hey, Long story short, the harmonic balancer came loose on my car. The crank bolt wasn't tight enough and worked loose I guess... I stopped the engine before any major damage occurred but the car isn't driveable. I pulled the balancer and timing belt covers off just to check for issues, it looks like the little key on the crankshaft sprocket is chewed away, so the balancer is just going to spin and spin. I've ordered the part from FCP Groton... new timing belt too, for good measure... SO! How hard is it to remove/replace the sprocket? Any tricks? Is this a nightmare I'm about to face or not so bad? Thanks Thaddeus http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357073&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 21:28 GMT When the A/C is off, but the temp control is set to cold, do you have hot air coming out of the vents anyway? Maybe your heater is fighting the A/C. My compressor runs for more than a couple of seconds, by the way. It should run for a few minutes at a time and not cycle off until the system 'knows' you're getting cold air. Are you sure your pressure gauge is accurate and you've added enough coolant? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356894&rss=1 Sat, 27 Jun 2009 12:16 GMT I put in some Pioneer 5 1/4 inch speakers yesterday. The holes don't quite line up, but well enough. The only problem was the center tweeter protrudes a bit from the surround, so the factory grill actually touches it. But no buzzing, so WTH. thanks peeps http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356893&rss=1 Sat, 27 Jun 2009 12:12 GMT I went to remove my rear springs... of course, the damned bolt stud that attaches to that retaining plate just spins and spins. If I crack the nut off, can I reuse that plate by putting a real bolt through it, or do I need to buy the whole shebang? I'd rather just use a plain old bolt with a head that I can put a wrench on anyway... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356626&rss=1 Thu, 25 Jun 2009 22:30 GMT Hey, Crutchfield doesn't list one. Apparently it's a weird size. Does anybody know offhand what size round speaker I can use with the factory grill? thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356551&rss=1 Thu, 25 Jun 2009 17:19 GMT Hey, My new springs are coming today and I want to throw them in. I won't be doing the strut cartridges this go-round. Out of money for now. My labor is, however, free to me. So: what is the MINIMUM amount of disassembly I will need to perform to swap in the new springs? Can I not disassemble the tie rods? Not disassemble the brake hose bracket? How little can I get away with for just the spring swap? Thanks in advance. Thaddeus 1992 245, w/ABS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356343&rss=1 Wed, 24 Jun 2009 17:44 GMT Perhaps it was a rare factory option? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-Volvo-240-DL-for-parts-only-all-parts-good-No-Tit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1171Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem53db6f25beQQitemZ360163780030QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356063&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 15:56 GMT I want a clock with hands and I don't like taking my hands from the wheel to check a wristwatch. My mad driving skeelz YO don't permit it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355903&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jun 2009 22:41 GMT I had to use a bushing to get the Sender to fit my 92's block -- the hole in the block was bigger and had a coarser thread than the sending unit. Boy did I piss off the guys at the auto parts store... but anyways, both the idiot light and the gauge are working now and it's nice. I like having a full complement of gauges, although I miss the clock, now that it's been replaced by a tach.... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355791&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jun 2009 10:47 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/