http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=42917 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:57 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:57 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Thanks very much for the diagram. The Firestone tech was not clear on the problem as anything more than the strut rod, possibly being too long, because it was old and worn out. I think that replacing the bushings is in order, and intend to take the car to the local Volvo shop for evaluation and probably repair. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363505&rss=1 Sun, 2 Aug 2009 19:29 GMT Thanks! ---from the help I'm getting here it seems that my problem may be the bushings or the Control arm itself. Is the name the Firestone Tech used an informal name for this component that you guys recognize? I'm hoping to be more sure about my problem. I think I may need to go to the local independent Volvo shop for this. Too bad. But the help I get here is very welcome. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363422&rss=1 Sun, 2 Aug 2009 07:16 GMT The guy at Firestone that did my alignment said that he could not get rid of my mild pull to the right. "You need a new strut rod, probably one a little shorter. The one you have is worn out" and he could not adjust it to get the car tracking correctly.He said that Volvo probably had rods of slightly different lengths for this purpose. Does this make sense to anyone? Is the name of this part correct? I need to educate myself on what I need to get this job done. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363365&rss=1 Sat, 1 Aug 2009 22:44 GMT Will do. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358879&rss=1 Thu, 9 Jul 2009 05:21 GMT I did replace that narrow hose from the flame trap, and used the straw from a can of WD-40 to poke out the crud in the manifold fitting; I felt a little pop from the manifold end so something (a partial obstruction?) came loose. The thing is, the oil filler cap when unscrewed with the engine running, sits there rattling around madly --there is no decent suction holding it down. I take this as a bad sign. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358878&rss=1 Thu, 9 Jul 2009 05:20 GMT I assumed that my oil seepage was a return of the clogged flame trap problem that I had temporarily fixed with the motor flush trick in the FAQ. I just replaced everything in the vent system last weekend with new parts- from the block up to the flame trap. Very nice. The pressure problem is still there! I'm worried about eventually blowing a seal. What could the over-pressure problem be caused by? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358548&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 15:55 GMT It was the MAS plug. (The air sensor coming off of the air cleaner box.) Reseating the plug fixed the surging. It was partially seated, and the wire bail was dislodged on one side. Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357753&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 05:40 GMT A new situation is that my idle is hunting around when starting. I'm getting more and more of a high idle condition,RPM varying, when I start up, and some brief power surges and hesitation, randomly, when driving. Do these symptoms point to a likely cause? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357346&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 04:54 GMT Thank you. I did get one- I didn't know that there were two rubber lines on the drivers front side. I'd better get another one before taking the thing apart on Wednesday. Sounds odd, but blocked lines would explain the sluggish flow when bleeding, and the back pressure symptoms as well. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357344&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 04:38 GMT Thanks. The pins and caliper were new. The replacement caliper moved easily on the pins, but when I hooked it up and bled the brakes, it seemed to bind. I don't think old dirty pins are the cause? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356957&rss=1 Sat, 27 Jun 2009 22:18 GMT When I got the wagon I had to have all of the calipers replaced. Then within a few months, the drivers side front started binding, the brake was very hot, and I had to replace that caliper again. It had two bleeders, and I was intimidated, but managed to bleed it and get the brakes working again. At the time I suspected that there was a bit too much drag on the wheel when I hand rotated it, but thought that I had fixed the trouble. (Inexperienced.) Now I have the problem again I think. -- the rotor temp is close to 100f on the passengers side front, and closer to 200f on the drivers side when I get home from work. And I think the rotor is warped, because of steering wheel shake then braking hard. What to replace first? The outer brake hose going to the caliper on the drivers front side? Or....I suspect the master cylinder for some reason. 338k on the clock so anything is possible as far as being worn out. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356954&rss=1 Sat, 27 Jun 2009 21:33 GMT Thanks, good information. :-) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355007&rss=1 Thu, 18 Jun 2009 04:26 GMT What is the result of worn out hydraulic motor mounts? Can it become serous in any way? As for U-joints-- what are the effects of worn parts here? Thanks for the enlightenment. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354553&rss=1 Tue, 16 Jun 2009 04:36 GMT I had a troublesome hot start problem. Replacing the fuel pump relay didn't help. Spraying starting fluid in the air intake hose would start the car. It turned out that the radio suppressor relay, the little plastic box clipped to the coolant overflow tank, was the problem. Replacing it with one from Eeuroparts (under $20, shipped) fixed the trouble. Now the wagon starts fast hot or cold. This was mentioned in the FAQ. Thanks Brickboard! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350247&rss=1 Sun, 24 May 2009 09:05 GMT Could a relay could make a noise like angry bees? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1345232&rss=1 Wed, 22 Apr 2009 03:08 GMT Ok- I know a couple of things now for sure about my starting problem: 1. Does not occur when cold. 2. A small shot of starting fluid in the air intake hose somehow overcomes the problem and easily starts the car. Also, and this may be unrelated, I hear a subdued noise like an electric motor laboring, it seems to come from the central dash area. It is not the fan motor. Anyway, I ordered a new fuel pump relay, but have a funny feeling that will not fix the trouble... Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1345122&rss=1 Tue, 21 Apr 2009 15:58 GMT I do have a good rubber air intake hose, good clamps. Tossed the plastic one that got swollen and soft from age. I should try spraying something at various points around the intake manifold while the engine is running, and see if I have RPM change. Maybe the warm start occurrence is a clue that I have a vacuum leak as Bill suggested as a possible source of trouble. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344844&rss=1 Mon, 20 Apr 2009 03:51 GMT Bill, I didn't! Don't know how to pull codes- But I would like to check for a vac. leak--a good idea. I should head back to the FAQ to find out how. The relay I took apart and sprayed, (it looked ok, but who knows) and as you thought, no good; the problem remained. I ordered a new one today just in case. I also put a large bottle of Techron into the gas this morning. Just got back from a day of errands and in the last 4 starts I had no trouble. Maybe a coincidence, but time will tell. One can hope. Cranking it without luck sure is nerve wracking. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344827&rss=1 Mon, 20 Apr 2009 02:39 GMT My fuel relay must be above the fuseblock then. Good reading- I'll try re soldering the joints on it...probably crystallized. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344667&rss=1 Sun, 19 Apr 2009 04:24 GMT Thought my recent hot start issues were a clogged fuel filter. I have changed the fuel filter today, (whew!) and I still am having trouble starting. Good new ignition items from rotor to plugs. Runs quite well when started; no issues. But I have to try the key a few times now,when warm. Very worrisome. Where is the fuel pump relay? I think it may be old and corroded. I'm thinking Remove and replace...hope it's not hard to access. I might spray the contacts first with DeOxit. Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344655&rss=1 Sun, 19 Apr 2009 02:22 GMT Do you know the inset tubs around the door lock releases in the front of a 740 wagon? Mine are plastic, tan (a caramel/yellow) and crumbling into shards. I guess these are very hard to get. Any advice? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1333445&rss=1 Sun, 22 Feb 2009 17:19 GMT Thanks for the help with this- the details are pretty useful, and pretty interesting too. Someday I would like to get a nice Turbo wagon as well, as a backup car, but for now I will have to rely upon my faithful non-turbo wagon, and get a 92 thermostat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1332421&rss=1 Tue, 17 Feb 2009 09:31 GMT To replace the thermostat, I see that there are several that are available with different degree designations. How does one choose correctly? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1332403&rss=1 Tue, 17 Feb 2009 05:37 GMT I mean the one on the throttle body (?) that is near the rubber elbow connected to the air cleaner. It is brass, with a small tube projecting up for a rubber hose. There is a long,hard thin black tube nearby, flopping around, that seems to go to a tank by the drivers side headlight. Cruise control stuff? I'm concerned about a vacuum leak and plugged the brass fitting. Seeking enlightenment... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1331268&rss=1 Thu, 12 Feb 2009 05:51 GMT Thank you for the post- very detailed and informative. Who knows who will benefit in the future after searching for tailgate issues in the archives? Mike http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1330620&rss=1 Mon, 9 Feb 2009 01:34 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/