http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=4187 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:46 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:46 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386553&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:49 GMT I've actually came up with 2 manifolds. One from a turbo that I made an adaptor template for a 1bbl and a complete Volvo Penta AQ125 intake w/ a Solex carb. That one fits perfect onto the B21, although I had to remove 1 sensor to make it fit. I have a friend that will drill and tap the manifold with a vacuum provision when he has time. I will probably use a cheap electric fuel pump. The big job this year was getting my "Retro" 240 finished and painted and the motor into my father-in-law's Model A rod project. So the Vauxhall will sit until I get the time and money to finish. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386552&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:48 GMT Thanks everyone. I got so many responses I can't even keep up with them. I'm sorry I couldn't respond until tonight. I am looking for some used ones and am trying to barter/trade plus cash for a complete 240 on Craigslist to use for parts. I've been driving the car as-is and so far-so good, it rides perfect. I fear as soon as the temp drops below zero it'll ride too stiff again. This is why I started this mess in the first place. Maybe I should just park it for the winter. As for the gland nuts; I saw the tool that IPS sells. It may work better than a pipe wrench. BTW how did you guys remember I have a Vauxhall. I almost forgot it. It's under a cover in the back of my garage - another stalled project. The B21 motor's oil pan won't clear the steering center link and the crossmember it a little too tall. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386363&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 03:07 GMT I just took my 240 sedan in to have the struts, ball joints and tie rods replaced. The mechanic only replaced the tie rods and ball joints. The top gland nuts above the strut tubes were rusted solid. He was afraid to damage the tubes taking them off and I know from past experience he probably would have too. On my previous 240 wagon I had to replace the entire assembly springs and all. When that mechanic replaced the strut carts he stripped out the gland nut on one side. I put it back on with a pipe wrench, but it popped off again the next day. I had a friend who is a much better welder than I weld the nut onto the tube. This also means never being able to replace the carts again, but it did work. I will need to get some new tube and spring cup assys. but nobody sells them anymore. I am considering waiting until spring, pulling them out myself and cutting the tops off of the tubes with a grinder. Making new tops out of pipe and washers and tack welding them on with new the carts inside. It's kind of dangerous to weld next to a high pressure tube; so does anyone have a better solution? Does anyone have a pair of used (non rusted) strut tube and spring cup assemblies lying around the want to sell. Does anyone have a complete assembly from springs to spindles that already has good strut carts inside, say like from a totaled 240? I've already spent over $200, but at least I got new ball joints and tie rods. Any positive info would help. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386056&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 17:46 GMT Thanks everyone. IPD sells them, but they want over $25 each. I saw autolites has them for $12 a pair. I'll check the other sites you suggested and I will have to figure out which rack I have first. BK http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381090&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 20:54 GMT Next month I'm getting new struts. Since the front end will be apart anyway I want to replace the lower ball joints and the outer tie rods since I have no idea if/or when they were replaced. Are all of the outer tie rods the same. I ran into a problem with my 81 245 with a TRW replacement rack. The inners were different but the outers are were the same. My 87 240 has power steering. I see a pair on Ebay pretty cheap and according to their chart they should fit. Should I take a chance on them? Are there differences in the outer rods? BK http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381015&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 16:16 GMT I was reading some other posts and came across one on dash wiring and spare wires for a tach. This reminded me of a problem I've been living with since I bought the car seven years ago. If I turn off the headlamps while the car is running, the engine will miss for only a split second. It never thought it was a big problem; but has this happened to anyone else before. All of my other 240's had regular headlamps but this 87 has daytime running lamps that will shut off with the key. Could there be a short somewhere? Should I just ignore it. BK http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375385&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 03:12 GMT It's a 3 screw lens (from an 84 240) and I need another solid orange one for the pass. side. $15 sound OK too. Email me at streetsofdreams2@aol.com and I could forward a photo of the clear one to you tonight. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369955&rss=1 Thu, 3 Sep 2009 16:27 GMT If I can figure out how to post a photo on here, I will. I've got to do it soon before somebody runs into the car or some other misfortune happens to it. I know all about the bad luck that comes with either getting a new car or a fresh paint job. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369954&rss=1 Thu, 3 Sep 2009 16:22 GMT My retro 240 conversion is 95% done on my 87 240. When it gets done it will look like a 70's model. I've got 1978-84 fenders with a 1975 nose and everything fit perfect. I just got it back from the paint shop and I'm about 75% happy with it. I was putting all of the trim back on now and I have mis-matched turn signal lenses. I have a clear lens on the pass. side and an orange one on the drivers. Anyone out there want to trade a clear lens for an orange pass. side front lens for a 75-84 lamp? I'll pay shipping both ways and even throw in another small item you are looking for in the box. You can email me direct if you want - streetsofdreams2@aol.com Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369812&rss=1 Thu, 3 Sep 2009 01:42 GMT Dave, It's a little more than I wanted to pay; but I will consider it. I have someone locally who has one to sell me if he can find it in his garage. If he can't find it, I'll buy yours. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366660&rss=1 Tue, 18 Aug 2009 00:49 GMT Does anyone have a spare turn signal housing & lens they want to sell for the drivers side? 1975-1985 style w/ clear lense. It doesn't need to be perfect. I could also use an orange lense if you want to sell both sides. I've seen a couple on Ebay, but they are perfect looking and quite expensive... Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366551&rss=1 Mon, 17 Aug 2009 16:46 GMT I just swapped an old style 1975-1985 front fender onto my 87 240. Unbelievably it fit better than the one that was on it orginally. Tomorrow, I'll swap the other side. I also ditched the entire crusty doghouse and core support and used an older style one. I also ditched the yellowed plastic headlamps and used single 7" round lamps. Even the wiring is the same color codes. The only issue I can see is the front lip of the hood hangs over the grill about 2" like a beak, but it kind of looks cool. I lost the older style drivers side turn signal lamp over the years. (I think I gave it to the guy who bought my old 245 with a box of spare parts). If anyone has one to sell, it's the clear lens from the 81-84 model. I could use one. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365982&rss=1 Fri, 14 Aug 2009 02:05 GMT Thanks, This will work since I'm using the original hood. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365683&rss=1 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 21:32 GMT If the fuel system is completly shot or you want to simplify your setup. The Volvo Penta AQ-125 and AQ-140 marine intakes with a carb will work. The AQ-125 is a single 1bbl. solex carb and the AQ-140 has dual upright solexes. You will need to drill & tap out the intake for vacuum provisions. I picked up my setup on EBay for under $35 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365475&rss=1 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 01:17 GMT Just a suggestion since it happened to me once. Check the fuel pump relay. It's located inside on the firewall behind the dash/carpet on the pass. side. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365353&rss=1 Tue, 11 Aug 2009 16:46 GMT I have finished 75% of the body work on my 87 240 and even patched the bottom and front lips of the front fenders (by turn signals) and it still looks iffy. I tacked sheetmetal onto it and I'm unsatisfied with the results. I'm also afraid the rust will return after it gets painted. There is a Bonus; I have a pair on NOS fenders from an 84 240. They look the same other than the turn signals. They have been in my garage for a decade and still look like new. Could I use it with the 87 hood? It looks like a direct bolt-on. I am NOT using the 87 headlamps or grill. I mounted a complete 76 nose with the 7" round lamps. It fit perfect when I used the upper and lower doghouses and core supports from the 84 240. (Yea, I have been hoarding a lot of parts). I will not be able to tell if the 84 fenders will match the profile with the 87 hood until I actually put them on, and then it will be too late if they don't align up. Has anyone done this before. I need some good advice and soon. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365342&rss=1 Tue, 11 Aug 2009 16:28 GMT My 87 240 sedan almost sits level, but the rear is about an inch lower than the front. It's about 2 inches lower with the kids in back. This was not really a problem unless you've seen my driveway approach. It's a steep angle and the street has sunk about 2 inches over the past few years and won't get repaved for many years. When I back out, the tailpipe and mudflaps drag across the ground. Getting the driveway reagraded to the street level would be not only expensive but would probably make it worse. I put 205/70/R14 snow tires in back and this sort-of worked. I replaced the rear shocks last summer with KYB gas shocks and wondered about putting 245 wagon springs in back. Would this raise the rear up. IPD sells overload springs that MAY raise the rear up, but if you include shipping that's also an expensive option (I'm really on a tight budget)and it may not even make a difference. Would 240 wagon springs raise it up? Does anyone have a pair they want to sell cheap, maybe from someone whoo lowered theirs. Are there any other springs that would work maybe a 260 sedan or even a 740? Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1345484&rss=1 Thu, 23 Apr 2009 16:23 GMT It was almost 20 degrees after work. I parked up on the roof level in the sun today. After work, I put my knee on the bumper and bounced it up and down in front and back, but the right front was so stiff it only moved about an inch. I took a quick left/right go-cart move on the road and it freed up. I think the carts are shot. I have an extra pair of carts in my garage. Problem is there's no room to work and there's about a foot of snow and ice on the driveway. I suppose I could go out and buy some heat tape (the kind you use under the crawl space in a house for water pipes). As long as the temp doesn't fall below freezing I'm safe for now. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1326991&rss=1 Thu, 22 Jan 2009 01:41 GMT My right front strut must of gotten some moisture inside it. Whenever the temperature drops into the teens it freezes up. My rear KYB shocks are only a year old and even they are rather stiff. The only real "bounce" I can get if from the left strut. The struts are old. They were in the car when I got it 5+ years ago and were seeming to work fine up until now. Should I just let it go until the spring when I have time to fix it; or could this do some serious suspension damage. I figured about 17-20 degrees and it loosens up, but it's been below zero every night and I park outside. I may have several more weeks of this really cold weather. Any suggestions other than heating them up. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1326858&rss=1 Wed, 21 Jan 2009 17:31 GMT it's streetsofdreams2@aol.com Thanks, Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1322513&rss=1 Wed, 31 Dec 2008 17:20 GMT Excellent idea, thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1322512&rss=1 Wed, 31 Dec 2008 17:19 GMT Wow, someone remembered the marine carb conversion. I have everything set aside. I'm having someone drill & tap the intake for vacuum fittings when he gets time. (Penta AQ125 intakes do not have any vacuum provisions). I am having problems with the oil pan clearing the Victor's steering center link so the motor sits in a cradle next to the car until spring. As for the rear caliper, this is just a temporary fix. I have 2 reman ATE calipers that I want to put on in the spring, but I broke off the bleeders on them (oops). I think if I look around I could find a shop to fix them otherwise I'll just buy another caliper. I got new loaded front ones from Autozone and they work fine, but are very low quality and took forever to get the air out of the lines. Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1322511&rss=1 Wed, 31 Dec 2008 17:18 GMT I need a pair of used rear brake pads. One of the pistons will not retract back all of the way and I have been putting 50%-75% worn ones in and they work fine with a couple new ones. If I use all new ones, they drag. I will eventually need to get new calipers. I had a newer set, but I broke the bleeders off so I'm screwed for now. I could also use a pair of stock rear springs preferrably from a wagon. Anyone out there have anything? Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1322384&rss=1 Wed, 31 Dec 2008 02:15 GMT I'm looking at an accident damaged 960 wagon this weekend. 940/960's in general are a rarity around here, but there are several 740/760s for parts out there. Just replacing the headlamps, signals, grill, bumper and hood makes this an almost impossible and very expensive task. I could pick up a late 80's 740 nose for a couple hundred bucks or less. Is the inner front clip the same? I see that the doors and glass are the same. Will the hood line up with the cowl or is this something that Volvo changed like they did with the post 86 240's? I will have to pass on this car if this doesn't fit. Anyone out there attemped this? Ben http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1302606&rss=1 Thu, 18 Sep 2008 16:24 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/