http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=40274 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:45 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:45 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Hi, just renewed mine. there are two slots, one for paper filter, one for carbon ie. multifilter for cars with electronic air quality sensor. the small nose in the bottom of paper filter is more to the side and carbon is more to the center of the filter and box slot respectively. You shouldn't install both says the manual. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1354764&rss=1 Wed, 17 Jun 2009 06:20 GMT Hi, noticed few drops oil on garrage floor on passanger side. Found out that cooling liquid cap gave out black crease. Do I have oil in the cooling system and it modifies into black cream? Any known typical reasons for this? The engine is not overheating as temp needle stays in the middle at all times. No special occasions notifies what so ever in recent past - regular driving. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1353169&rss=1 Tue, 9 Jun 2009 13:39 GMT hi, irrational panel lights might also be due to worn out alternator voltage regulator bruches. if not yet replaced in your car it could just be the time. br Tapsa 2x850-94,v70-05 http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1351492&rss=1 Mon, 1 Jun 2009 06:01 GMT Hi, 444 says that the power supply to the valves is not OK (#3pin). Faulty combination relay? or bad connectors around? to be checked before jumping into expensive abs valve module or control module. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1350120&rss=1 Sat, 23 May 2009 08:10 GMT Hi, propably is your o2 no more optimal but I cannot see it as only reason for such a bad mileage without any codes. you should get 28mpg on interstate and the 23mpg is good for mixed driving. your 16mpg is for city with heavy foot only if everything is in condition. just start with tune up and check codes, temp sensor, clean maf, measure fuel pressure, clean throtle body and vacum lines and connections for leaks. br Tapsa 2x 850-94, v70d5awd-05 http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1349274&rss=1 Mon, 18 May 2009 07:02 GMT Hi, 01/02 are first years of second gen production and to be avoided. If you go for awd you should go for haldex based solution (03?-). The 6speed geartronics should be more robust design than 5speed. br Tapsa 2x 850-94,V70D5AWD-05 http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1349271&rss=1 Mon, 18 May 2009 06:28 GMT Hi Tina, with Volvos my opinion is one should avoid first production year of new models; 1997 for first generation 70, 2001 for second gen. (-07), 2007 for third gen. The other ting is ETM from Magneti Marelli for peace of mind. So I would ssecond KlausC: find a first gen 70 with wired throtle, close to your present. Or you can put a lot more money for a mid second gen. 2005- onwards. Br Tapsa 2x 850-94,V70-05 D5 AWD http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1349269&rss=1 Mon, 18 May 2009 06:06 GMT Hi, I would leave the knock sensors and altenator but renew the voltage regulator if still original as the brushes wear out anyway and cost is about 30USD only. Cleaning the block and compartment is time consuming but is a joy afterwards for a long time. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1347423&rss=1 Tue, 5 May 2009 05:52 GMT Thanks Klaus, now we are talking, I see I've been mislead by local web pages and will be looking for used parts offering as not going to keep this 850-94 for more than one or two years max with fairly low annual mileage. thanks to you I have still few weeks time to hunt the replacement part as planned to go for it in mid May and then the ipd instructions are also for big help. br tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1346266&rss=1 Tue, 28 Apr 2009 06:53 GMT Hi, yes it is the sway bar (anti-roll bar) going from left hand side to right close to ps-rack. The car was loaded with four persons and gear for a week's stay for skiing and 2x1000 km drive. Still I wonder the weakest point being a bar of dia about 20mm. For my understanding the links are 30€ each (2) and the bar 30€ (1) which is affordable but need to look closer if you say it should be more expensive. The job is hard and would estimate 2to3 hours which makes it more costly if not diy. Let us see, I'll go for it next month. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1346105&rss=1 Mon, 27 Apr 2009 06:16 GMT Hi, when changing summer tires after my skiing week up north I found my front swaybar broken on the left hand side. I assume replacing it is much comparable with PS-rack replacement work? right? or should i be prepared for worse? when starting the job or better leave it for a shop? patrs cost 3x30€ so most of the cost is labor if not diy. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1345792&rss=1 Sat, 25 Apr 2009 06:27 GMT Hi, having also 2x850-94 n/a, I could propose two to start with: 1: fuel pump relay (nbr 103 / 50€) replacement, below cover in fuse box, diy 2: electrical part of ignition key (haven't had a need yet) br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1345623&rss=1 Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:48 GMT Hi, this works for my my06 v70 d5: 1. ignition key to pos I 2. push and keep odo down 3. turn ignition key to pos II 4. keep odo down til triangle starts blinking done br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1337424&rss=1 Fri, 13 Mar 2009 09:01 GMT Hi, I have 2x850-94s 4aut in which been using DexIID without problems. last summer I flushed the one with Mobil1 syn and can say (in winter) it is smoother but for us quite much more expensive. Still considering which to use with the other one next time. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1336996&rss=1 Wed, 11 Mar 2009 07:37 GMT Hi, found no clear leak indications, but have to wait for warmer evenings to go thorough/replace all lines propperly. Did tap the HO2S sensor (black/grey) with voltmeter and got 0.45V at ignition on, increasing voltage ( to 0.7V)when enrgine running and getting warmer and then it started show values between 0.1 to 0.8V i.e. working about as it should. I will take a look at the sensor when it gets warmer to see how dirty the sensor is. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1336548&rss=1 Mon, 9 Mar 2009 08:25 GMT Hi, HO2S with ignition on gives 0.45-0.46V On idle 0.1V -0.9V when engine is hot, Low is for lean, high for rich running. one information I've seen says also for cold sensor approx 3 ohm, hot 13 ohm. all above found when looking for 850-94 NA engine. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1335728&rss=1 Thu, 5 Mar 2009 18:22 GMT Hi, It's good I can exclude cat and exhaust and I share the opinion about vacuum leak, to be checked. A minor leak wouldn't do much over 2000 rpms? would it. But then the logic? A leak after MAF is adding air and causing leaner mix and higher lambda (>1). Is there a control feed back loop making the engine to run rich instead? based on HO2S signal for example. Anyway the mpg is down last year, based on this or the change in use of the car since the new V70D5AWD is used for longer distances mainly. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1335658&rss=1 Thu, 5 Mar 2009 07:03 GMT Hi, had to go for the smog test yesterday, thanks to the guy measuring twice we finally got lambda value at upper limit at high rpm over 2000 and passed. But would like to understand better what this is all about and where to look. It is a 850-94 NA engine with 270k kms on, no major repairs (no A2/A6 DTC), air filter renewed at 240k kms, MAF cleaned once two years ago.Is cleaning causing lean or rich mix? and high lambda? Lambda value is about oxygen level at O2sensor, one before cat in this 850: - is my original sensor getting old and/or dirty (is dirty sensor causing high lambda?) or - is my exhaust leaking before O2sensor or - is my air intake leaking after MAF or is MAF getting old/dirty,or - is my cat getting worn out -does ECU reset by power off have any effect all the measurements at over 2000 rpm (high limit value) CO=0%(0.3),HC=11ppm(100), lambda=1.03(1.03),CO2=14%(-), O2=1.2%(5.0) Br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1335459&rss=1 Wed, 4 Mar 2009 08:06 GMT Hi, I would second KlausC. Used once ATF when flushed PS (850-94 as manual says)and it started gradually to leak at pinion. Replacing 30 Euro gasket was quite a job last summer. Since I use only Volvo PS 20 euros one liter. Br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1334043&rss=1 Wed, 25 Feb 2009 18:12 GMT Hi, you may try these with some luck 5. S70 and V70 and C70 and XC70 1. Press and hold odometer reset button. 2. Turn ignition switch to Run. 3. After SRL flashes, release odometer reset button. 4. Confirm by turning your Volvo off, then on again. 6. S80 1. Turn ignition switch to position I. 2. Press and hold "day counter reset button". 3. Turn ignition to position II. 4. Continue holding day counter for about 10 seconds. 5. While SRL flashes, release day counter button. 6. Should hear "beep-beep" to confirm command accepted. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1332416&rss=1 Tue, 17 Feb 2009 07:13 GMT Hi, having 2x850-94 aut since -97 I bought V70D5-05AWD 6geartronic (TF80SC)about one year ago. I'm still surpriced of the good driveability due to the combination: engine, transmission, sport chassis. I use 55 profile tires instead of 45 for more comfortable ride. I conseder XC a bit as compromice and thus not best combination for driveability. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1332210&rss=1 Mon, 16 Feb 2009 07:34 GMT Hi, my sister is driving V40T 2.0L -02, low pressure turbo and only once O2 sensor replaced so far. She drives much short distancies, thus also the mpg is not the best either. Still I think the 60/70 series bigger volvo family is more robust and longer lasting designs, but more costly to buy and keep. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1331963&rss=1 Sun, 15 Feb 2009 09:01 GMT Hi, would like to second KlausC, wires do last long. I'm running two 850s-94 with original wires but second set of distributor and. No problems yet ever with wires. br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1331962&rss=1 Sun, 15 Feb 2009 08:52 GMT Hi, sometimes I find some help here: http://vccs.volvocars.se/accessories/ii/search.aspx?resetsearch=true br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1331491&rss=1 Fri, 13 Feb 2009 07:01 GMT Hi, if you have LH3.2/EZ129K engine management system on your 850-95 -then according to my information IAC terminals 1-2 is about 10 ohm and terminals 2-3 also about 10 ohm (=9-14ohm). For a no-start I wouldn't focus on IAC as idel rpm control unit. Lawn mover syndrom and lifters? fuel pump relay? plugs? any codes? br Tapsa http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1331353&rss=1 Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:32 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/