http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=4019 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:30 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:30 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Just FYI, My bro had a 1975 242 and it had a major vapor lock issue. Whenever it was hot out, it would stall. But when allowed to cool, or throwing cool water on the fuel pump would ALWAYS get it running again.Also, when this would happen, there was a major vacuum in the gas tank that would cause a very loud hiss and release of pressure when the gas cap was removed. I think that gas may have even shot out at him once, but this is going back 30 years so can't remember for sure. I believe that he finally replaced the fuel pump, and the problem went away. But, I also remember some of the mid to late 70's 240's having some kind of vapor lock issue. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359673&rss=1 Mon, 13 Jul 2009 20:22 GMT Well, I did the seafoam thing today. But, I kind of didn't completely follow directions. I first sucked one cup of distilled water into the intake. Then, I did 1/3 cup of the seafoam, let it stall, sit for 20 minutes, then started it up, and revved it a bit, not super high RPM'S but it did smoke some, Then, I should have driven it hard at that point. But, I sucked another 1/3 cup of seafoam into the intake, put 1/2 can into the gas tank with 9-10 gallons of gas, and then took it for a hard drive. I put it into second gear (auto) and it did smoke quite a bit, but not as much as I expected. It does run a little better, but still has a slight rough idle. I did notice a difference when I put it in the gas. But, that could be from the fact that it is a little more volatile, or boost the octane up a bit. Really, I have not driven it enough to tell how much difference yet. And the real reason for this is still chasing my rough idle, and crap gas mileage. Do the auto 240's all get that much worse mileage than the manual cars? My bro gets WAY better mileage w/ his 89 240 with manual trans. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357900&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 01:39 GMT After towing my dirt bike around for awhile, I advise you NOT to tow with your 245, unless it is a beater and on it's last leg anyway. After I bought a used Jeep&#091 GC for towing my bike, I realized how hard it was on my 245 to tow with it. MAYBE, if you get the IPD overload springs it wouldn't be so bad, but I would not do it. And, my dirt bike and trailer are super light, and I could still tell it was not good for it. Just my .02 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357799&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 14:31 GMT I am still a little tentative about the seafoam. I mean, I have read 95% positive reviews about it. But, I still have this fear of screwing with an old engine (1991 244 113000 miles) and dislodging something, or clogging the cat. But, I have decided that I can't live with the crap gas mileage that I am getting. I also have a slight rough idle that is driving me nuts. I just hope I don't screw up my engine. I have decided only to use it in the gas tank, and sucking it in through a vacuum line into the intake. I have also decided to just drive the car pretty hard after it sets for 20 minutes or so, and not rev the guts out of it with no load on the engine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357728&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 02:27 GMT " That's pretty darned impressive. I wish I had been able to buy a new 240, and see how many miles I could rack up on it. For a lot of people, that would probably be one of two cars they would ever need in their lifetime, if they didn't get bored or their needs didn't change." Or, if all of the owners knew about the achilies heel of these cars. Wet carpets from leaking windshields etc, no screen on the cowl louvers allowing the rockers to fill with leaves, which get wet and rust out the rockers. Also, be sure to clean the drain holes of debris in the bottom of the rockers so what water does get in will drain out. The cure? remove the rocker plugs on the inner (cabin) part of the rocker, and vacuum all of the leaves and crap out of them. Then, buy some of the magnetic sheet and cut to fit over your louvers to keep said junk, and water out (this was someone else's (EXCELLENT) idea. Remove when running your air etc (If you are one of the lucky few 240 owners with working AC). I bought the magnetic sheet sold at lowes made for covering up airvents in your home, and painted it black to match my car. Oh yeah, I had one 240 for 23 YEARS!! And it had well over 200000 miles on it when it was rear ended in front of my house, ending it's life!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356867&rss=1 Sat, 27 Jun 2009 03:00 GMT I am thinking lower control arm bushings. Mine had an annoying creak, until I replaced the control arm bushings, then it went away, I will warn you, it is an easy job to pull the lower CA arms off. But DO NOT do the bushings yourself. Have them pressed in, then install the CA arms yourself. I have never taken a car to the shop for anything, except tires. I opted to pull the CA arms and rear bushing bracket, and take them to a car machine shop and have the old ones pressed/burnt out, and the guy that did the work said it was a real ass kicker and even he had trouble with them, and he does this kind of thing all day long. I wish I had done the same with the torque rod bushings. They are extremely difficult to get out, even after I cut a 1/4 inch slot out of them, still had to pound the hell out of them with 3 pound sledge to get old bushings out. I heard a story about a guy that had 20 tons of pressure on them with a press, before they finally popped. Spray the lower CA arm bushings with a LITTLE wd-40 and see if it goes away. They are dry anyway probably. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355696&rss=1 Sun, 21 Jun 2009 19:39 GMT Machineman, "Some year cars have wiring harness problems and this sensor could be dropping out. A poor connection (higher resistance) would cause a more rich condition because the ECU would think the engine is colder than it really is. Another possibly a reason for black sooty tail pipe." I will check the wiring from brand new temp sensor to ECU as you and others have suggested. Mine has a flame trap that has been cleaned along with the hoses, not sure if I have an EGR valve? The cars warms up to normal temp really quickly, so I may rule out the thermostat. When I recently flushed the cooling system, the thermostat wasn't opening when I expected it to, and the temp gauge went into the red very briefly. Of course I shut it down immediately. I felt that the thermostat should have opened before it did, so I will probably replace it anyway. The car doesn't have a oil consumption issue. I realize there are about 100 things that can cause my symptoms, and have spent hours searching the board archives. Like a needle in a haystack. Dan, My mileage is approx 18 MPG combined. My bro is getting 27-30 with his manual transmission 244. Should a stick get that much better mileage than an auto? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355563&rss=1 Sun, 21 Jun 2009 02:34 GMT Hmmm. I Hadn't thought of the thermostat!! If my temp gauge is showing normal, wouldn't that mean that the thermostat is good and allowing the engine to run at normal temp? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355448&rss=1 Sat, 20 Jun 2009 13:16 GMT Another thing to check is the temperature sensor for the ECU. Dan Dan, changed the temp sensor, brand new. Machine man, Hmmm. I Hadn't thought of the thermostat!! No, I have not changed out the plug wires yet. I will probably use the ones on my bro,s car because it runs perfect. I may try his AMM as well. What temp thermostat should I get? I am tired of throwing money into parts, and finding out the old parts were good. (50.00 temp sensor) If these things don't work, I will change the intake manifold gasket. Might as well try the easiest things first. I also have not checked the timing w/ a timing light. I may also seafoam it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355376&rss=1 Sat, 20 Jun 2009 00:36 GMT Dan, The Fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is a good one for sure, and no sign or smell of gas on the "dry" side. It has always been common knowledge that sticks get better mileage, but I was told that that was in the old days before all autos went with a locking(? not sure if this is the right term) torque converters. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355184&rss=1 Fri, 19 Jun 2009 01:58 GMT Wow, I also bought a set of the sachs advantage shocks, one had the accordian boot, the other the sleeve. The box had been opened (never a good sign) on the one with the sleeve. My guess is when someone calls and complains (like I am going to do) they snag one off another shock, replacing it with a sleeve. Then the cycle begins over again. I want the accordiam one for much better seal protection. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355183&rss=1 Fri, 19 Jun 2009 01:54 GMT I still have a rough idle on my NA 244 after trying all of the following things. I have tried many, many different things, such as: 1. Plugs, cap, rotor 2. Clean throttle body, flame trap, and ICM, AMM. 3.Replaced DOA intank pump, broken motormounts, bad overdrive solenoid. 4. Ran lucas oils fuel system cleaner and Techron through it since I have had it 5. Timing belt, all front seals 6.New o2 sensor 7.New air filter. 8. Clean injector grounds 9. Replace temp sensor 10. Replace FPR with a known good one 11. check for vacuum leaks. 12. Dielectric grease on all connections, injectors, AMM idle motor, inj. grounds, temp sensor etc. 13. New pre-pump and some more things I am forgetting. I will probably pull the injectors and see how they look. Fault codes are 1-1-1 which means no faults according to Bentley for my 1991 244 w/ LH. I have 3.0 OHMS across terminals 2 and 3 of the AMM, which according to Bentley is in spec range Specs are 2.5-4.0 OHMS. They say to replace the AMM if it is out of this range. I believe I have a rich condition, tailpipe is black, and my brother's 89 244 is getting WAY better mileage, but his is a manual transmission. I may do a compression check, and possibly seafoam it. I have spent so many hours on this, now I have hyper extended my knee from leaning on the bumper so much with my leg, it has been sore for three weeks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355181&rss=1 Fri, 19 Jun 2009 01:44 GMT They last a very long time if you remove the pre-heat hose to the airbox and plug the hole. The only AMM failure I have had was because I did not know about the $10 airbox thermostat's propensity to fail and cook the $400 AMM. I do now and the first thing I do with a "new" 240 is remove the hose. Dan Dan, Why plug the hole after removing the pre-heat hose? I just left it open , and gutted the flapper and now I get twice the amount of air into the air starved airbox. Increased the horsepower by at least 5bhp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353754&rss=1 Fri, 12 Jun 2009 09:32 GMT When they tell you not to get it on your skin, they are not kidding. Everytime I use this stuff, I waer it. But, this time I even topped my own stupidity with this stuff. I made the mistake of putting a pint in a GLASS jar (NEVER, EVER put this stuff in a glass jar!) and dropping it on my vice in the basement sending por-15 all over the bench, dryer, vice and bench, and some plastic tote/containers In my stupidity, I kind of went into shock seconds after realizing the horror I had bestowed on myself. As I looked down at the black paint of death EVERYWHERE, I froze for a few seconds. Then, I just started garbbing old towels, and smearing it around. I wound up having to use gasoline, and lacquer thinner rags and about 1 1/2 hours of hell. Is it just me, or does anyone else wind up wearing this stuff? Oh yeah, to put me one more notch up on the stupid meter, I ruined my 200.00 pair of shoes too!!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353388&rss=1 Wed, 10 Jun 2009 16:21 GMT OK, I took it apart (duh, it was easy, It just looked glued to me) and cleaned most of the "mud" out of it. It had old grease mixed with dirt/water which I am sure 90% of them have. It also had about one foot of old mast track/rope stuck in it as I expected. There was no ground wire hooked to the motor when I bought it. Only the wires in the plugs (one from antenna, one from front of car, radio). The motor did not run, but I will run a wire from the motor to ground as shown in the Bently manual. I am thinking this is the reason it doesn't work. I assumed the green wire in the harness in trunk for antenna was a ground. One question I do have is I cannot find anywhere in the trunk to attatch the bracket on the bottom of the motor. Where does it attatch? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351248&rss=1 Sat, 30 May 2009 15:50 GMT What is a fair price for a set of 1974 164e bumpers? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351186&rss=1 Fri, 29 May 2009 23:43 GMT When I bought this 1993 940 turbo 5 years ago used it only had 28000 on it. It had warped rotors when I got it. I replaced them and it warped the new set within a year or two. I know that if a pad deosn't release or if a pad remains in contact with a rotor it can warp a rotor. I am going to remove the two bolts that hold the caliper and the bracket side of the caliper (the bolts with the little rubber bellows on it) and clean and grease them, to make sure that they are floating properly, and not sticking causing a pad to ride on rotor. Any other cures would be appreciated. I have removed the rotors, and am going to have them turned. A local car machine shop will take a few thousandths off and clean them up, but they will just warp again if I don't find the cause. I copied and pasted these first two paragraphs from another forum. I trust the BB expertise as much as them, I am just looking for as much input as I can get because apparently warping of the rotors isn't always the culprit here. Pad material can also become impregnated into the rotor coming down from long highspeed braking, or downhills, and then coming to a complete stop, and the pad just sits there and leaves material on the rotor. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350391&rss=1 Mon, 25 May 2009 13:43 GMT Mcduck, School me on taking it on proper voltages. I assume one terminal is to raise the mast, the other to drop it?. I looked at it and it appears to be glued together, as well as screwed together. Also, some of the screws have been marked for as to tell if they have been turned with paint. As if the manufacturer doesn't want it opened. But, I will give it a go. I also hooked it to a power supply at 12vdc and all it does is click at the relay. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350090&rss=1 Sat, 23 May 2009 00:58 GMT I am not going to mention names or the forum (I have been trying to be civil about getting my money back) but I bought a used elect. antenna for a 240. I understand that used parts are buyer beware, but you should be reasonably safe buying an antenna. Right? Well, the guy didn't test it before he sent it all the way across the country, and it doesn't work. The cost was very reasonable (35.00 shipped)but I put it in and no worky. I do have 12v to the plug and a good ground. I suspect there is a piece of the plastic rope/track stuck down in the motor. I thought about taking it apart, but figured he would for sure not give me my money back then. Plus, it doesn't seem to be very easy to take apart, appears to be screwed and glued, (like me!) I have been negotiating with him all week, and his first offer was 5.00!!! Then, after I said unacceptable, he offered me 20.00, and I ship it back but it cost 15.00 to ship it back, so still only 5.00. I then suggested he refund 20.00 and I keep the POS paperweight (so I don't have to ship it all the way back to oregon), and probably pitch it, or use it as a manual antenna. still a no go. I am now getting ready to give him a bad review on the buyer/seller rating forum. I hate to do this, but he is not negotiating, and I am out 35.00 and still have to spend more$ now for an antenna. What should I do, bash him or walk away? I hate being played for a dumb@$$ and having someone thinking they got over on me!!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350073&rss=1 Fri, 22 May 2009 22:20 GMT Volvo blue, Where is the inline fuse holder, and where is it grounded? I do have voltage at the plug in the trunk for the antenna. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349862&rss=1 Thu, 21 May 2009 09:30 GMT I am still betting it's plugwires. I had the stock 15 year old plugwires on a 242, and it would be hard to start on foggy/humid mornings and run like crap until warm and underway. I took a spray bottle of water at night and started the car. In the dark, you could see the sparking/arcing when spraying water on the wires. Replaced wires, and it ran great no matter how moist. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349631&rss=1 Wed, 20 May 2009 01:23 GMT I am considering using the seafoam. I think the only thing holding me back is that sometimes when you mess with an old engine, it can stir up other problems. Seems like everyone has their own way to use it. I read a post about a guy that had his engine flushed with a bilstein engine flush machine on a BMW and it wasn't long after that the engine went out. One guy on TB said not to use it in the gas or oil? ( I am sure it thins out the oil) If I suck it in through a vacuum line, how much should I put in that way? One guy says 33% in gas, 33% oil, and the other 33% through a vacuum line. And, if it breaks all the carbon up in combustion chambers, why doesn't all that carbon clog the cat? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349410&rss=1 Tue, 19 May 2009 02:11 GMT My 1991 244 has the electric/mechanical fans, but not the 134A. I have looked at the options of converting. Not that I am not capable, but I am considering not converting it over, and trying to get the R-12 system to work. It does have the pusher electric fan which I have never heard run, so they acknowledged there was a problem, but still it was in that transition stage before Volvo converted over to the 134. I posted recently that the clutch keeps kicking on and off, making kind of a groaning sound when I am on the highway. I raised the hood, to see the clutch engaging and disengaging. What does this mean, and why doesn't the elect. fan ever run? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349234&rss=1 Mon, 18 May 2009 02:43 GMT My 1993 940 turbo is still showing signs of what I believe to be excessive crankcase pressure. I changed out the oil trap breather box, and the hoses and thought that is about all you can do with the 940 turbo to ensure that you won't have excessive crank pressure. It isn't blowing oil all over by any means, just a few nagging leaks. Could this all be normal? Maybe I should replace the filler gasket(I can tell it is shot, as the cap spins on very easy compared to my 244 with a new oil filler gasket) maybe the small amount of oil on the oil trap is normal, and I know if they have many miles on them, all of the redblocks seem to have a drop of oil at the trans/motor junction. But, I am still seeing hints that may not be the case. It is seeping a little out of the oil filler (I have a new gasket, but don't want to change it out until I get this sorted), the rear main has the usual very slight leak, a few drops at the auto trans screens, and I am seeing a little oil on the new oil trap box. I also have an oil leak under the exhaust manifold somewhere that I can't quite figure out yet. There is a sensor under there. I have also had problems with this car using oil since I bought it at 28000 miles!! NEVER had a redblock use oil, even the 242 that I drove for 23 years didn't use any oil. It will smoke on start up once every two months or so. I think it is the turbo seals causing these symptoms? Any suggestions are appreciated. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349229&rss=1 Mon, 18 May 2009 01:58 GMT I bought a used antenna, and it doesn't work. I am still negotiating with the seller about how to resolve this. I feel that it should have been tested before it was sent. Anyway, it probably has a piece of the plastic rope/track stuck in the motor I figure. All it does is click at the relay on the post when you apply 12v. I do have 12v at the plug in the trunk with radio in and ignition on. It has some sealed screws on it, but it looks as though it may be glued together as well. Does anyone have any experience with repairing these? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349227&rss=1 Mon, 18 May 2009 01:03 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/