http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=40084 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 07:45 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 07:45 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I'm looking for a Jetronic ECU, Bosch #0280000572. Does anyone know if there are any problems with a different unit going in? (Manual transmission 244) If anyone has one, please let me know! Thank you! -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352212&rss=1 Thu, 4 Jun 2009 13:55 GMT i rebuilt a '90 after the previous owner's son took it over a parking barrier... i was able to salvage parts off my '86 for some things, which, if i needed them, would have included the body panels and hood... if you are talking about the crossmember (on which the engine mounts) which sits behind the rack, you can get one from a yard... however, they have to be careful how they torch it... there are a couple of welded bolts that stay with the crossmember... i found this out the hard way! and had to wait until they got another brick in to replace it... there are only four bolts that hold the cross member in... look on the frame inside the wheels from the top... two on each side... if the crossmember needs replacing, the rack does as well... plus your tie rod ends... you'll need to check the engine mounts and also the transmission mounts for damage... they are designed fail points for collisions... if you can get one, get a crossmember with the a-arms attached - replace your bushings before you mount it (vising gets a bit interesting, but you have much better access... best way to check parts interchangeability... visit fcpgroton.com, and look up the parts... they will tell you the years they work for... best of luck! curiousheights -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349883&rss=1 Thu, 21 May 2009 14:42 GMT i actually have most of the car (silver), which goes along with the motor and transmission... important note - no tie rod ends or rack! it lived the last of its life in western ny, and was retired because the rocker panels rotted... it wouldn't pass inspection, and i can't do body work... i changed the timing belt a month before i retired it... odometer quit, but i believe the mileage to be ~160K. i acquired a '90, and did the 'peter for paul' routine, so some parts are missing, but the engine and transmission were good when i parked it... door and trunk locks, hood mounts, exhaust and headlights are missing, driver's front quarter panel met up with a basketball post... very little rust visible on the body, but the rocker panels have holes... interior is dismantled because i needed the locks... other parts may be missing, but i can't remember off the top of my head, so ask... all glass is there... my previous plans for the car fell through... i have the title (clean, someone donated it; i purchased it immediately after it pulled into the junk yard and drove it for several years... i don't know if that qualifies as a salvage title? but i own it free and clear), however, i'm in the middle of a move, so it might take me a month to find it... if someone here gives me a reasonable offer and can come get it a.s.a.p., i will mail the title as soon as i find it... otherwise, i have to junk it... it was my first volvo, so i'm hoping not to send everything to the graveyard... if you have questions, please ask! curiousheights -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/PICKNPULL/?id=1349878&rss=1 Thu, 21 May 2009 14:06 GMT I'm working on my parents' 740 which will not start. Sadly, it is made more difficult, because, as my mom said, its 'clue box' doesn't work. She wanted to know if there was anyway to make it work, since without it, we don't have a clue! She was speaking of the OBD, which, in fact, does not work; she couldn't remember the proper name. (She's trying valiantly to follow and understand what I'm doing; she's not ever worked on cars and I'm learning as I go! I now know where I get it from!) I have to say I prefer her terminology! It made me laugh when I sorely needed it, and I will continue, at least in my family, to refer to it as the 'clue box'! No posts needed here to try to fix it, as I have a thread going elsewhere, but I figured I would share my smile for the day! Have a wonderful day, and stay warm! ezsha -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254304&rss=1 Sat, 26 Jan 2008 13:04 GMT I replaced the timing belt less than a year ago (~6k miles), but couldn't remember if I tensioned it, so the first thing I did after replacing the crank sensor was tear everything down to the timing belt to check all timing marks and make sure the manual tensioner had been adjusted. Timing marks were spot on, and rotor spun when the crank shaft was turned. As far as I can tell, timing should not be an issue at all. Again, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, as I've been several times already! I will check the remaining steps when I get back from work, either tomorrow afternoon or Sunday. Thanks so much! ezsha -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254264&rss=1 Sat, 26 Jan 2008 03:37 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254100&rss=1 Fri, 25 Jan 2008 05:18 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254099&rss=1 Fri, 25 Jan 2008 05:16 GMT "Since you were on the gauge sensor rather than the ECT, you don't know if you have any problem at all with engine temperature sensing." As per Bentley 280.11.5, ignition ECU connector terminal 2 to ground, resistance doesn't come close to 4-6K ohms it says it should. It was reading under 2K at 30 degrees. I just haven't gotten back to the actual sensor yet to check, as I was decoyed by the one in front. I've been trying to fix the no spark, but haven't had much luck. Changing the power stage allowed for me to see the timing flicker on a test light between coil terminal 1 and ground when cranking, which the old one did not do. Unfortunately, both vehicles are out in the open. Worked a bunch today because there was no wind, only lots of snow at 20 degrees. I can handle it if there's no wind... Next opportunity will be over the weekend. Thanks again for your help! ezsha -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254070&rss=1 Fri, 25 Jan 2008 02:53 GMT Mr. Shannon - Thanks so much for your help on both this thread and my never-ending 240 thread... (Yes, it's been 7 or so weeks for that one!) The link you posted gives me this response: "Felaktig länk", which I tried to look up. I think means bad link? (I don't speak Swedish, is it?) I can get back to the root site of garaget.org, but am lost, and volvo 740 yields no results. Thanks for trying to get me a picture. "Before you get too far into it, be sure to check the simple things. Is there gas in the car? Is the battery fully charged? Fuses OK? Do the fuel pumps come on when you turn the key ON?" Gas is 3/4 tank. Battery reads 12.97 volts after several attempts to start it. I pulled all the fuses, and they all looked ok. (I discovered one was missing, for the SRS test system, but it's been running without it for over a year and a half.) I can hear at least one fuel pump when the key is on. I'm glad to know I'm not completely ignorant. My best guess was that the distributor was the round thing tipped sideways on the back of the valve cover, but I'd never seen anything that short, with what looked like almost no wires and little access room, plus I was looking for something more like my 240. I can probably figure out how to remove the cover, now that I know where I'm looking for them. I also tested the voltage at the distributor, both posts to ground, and once I got the probe up into the connector for post 1, they both read the same, greater than 12 volts, with the key in ignition position II. In addition, a test light connected to terminal 1 and the shock tower shows a steady flicker when the engine is cranked. If the same runs true for the 740 as the 240, I believe this rules out the power stage, ICU and crank sensor, but goodness knows I could be mistaken. I should probably update the situation before the no-start. It may or may not have a bit to do with the situation. A ~3" block of pipe on the end of the header pipe (distal to the manifold) mysteriously disappeared. We've been fighting to keep everything attached since then, and have been clamping in a small piece of pipe to fill the hole. It failed, and my dad attempted to replace it, but couldn't get it to fit. (There is a difference in pipe diameter without the missing piece. He's done this several times already.) He had it jacked up on the passenger front side. When he last attempted to check to see if the noise was appropriately dampened, it almost started and then failed to start. OBD does not work. Light fails to come on in either slot. I have no idea if it worked when we bought the car in Sept. '06. Currently, it tries to crank over, but I'm uncertain about whether I have fuel or spark, as I was rudely awakened when I opened the hood and actually took a look and was lost. The only manual we could find that came close for this car is woefully inadequate, as it says the car doesn't exist! (I forget if it's a Chiltons or Haynes, multi-year, multi-model piece of blankety-blank, with an index that is even worse! Sorry, used to my Bentley, and frustration's running high.) I was concerned he may have dislodged the oxygen sensor while patching things up, but it wasn't where the book said it should be... He says he located it under the center of the car? And it appears to be intact. Let the fun begin, part 2! Thanks to anyone who tries to help! -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254065&rss=1 Fri, 25 Jan 2008 02:44 GMT My parents 1990 16v 745 will not start. I have a 1990 244, so I figured I would try to help... I opened the hood, and was astounded how different it looks under there! The book they have describes a bunch of years and models, but no 1990 16v 745. Where on earth are the spark plugs? I'm trying to confirm spark, but couldn't find the cap or plugs? I'm assuming they are hidden under something, but if anyone could link me to a picture with arrows, or describe their location, I would be very grateful! -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254042&rss=1 Fri, 25 Jan 2008 00:30 GMT "Another simple test - put a test light on the #1 post, ground off to a suitable ground (shock tower is good) and have someone crank the engine. The light should blink on and off, consistently in timing and intensity. If it does, then your ignition computer, power stage and crank sensor are all functioning properly, doing all they can to fire the coil discharge. Good into the coil, bad out, points to a bad coil." Test light on #1 post, ground off to shock tower - 1st attempt was constant light, no flicker. Replaced power stage with one pulled from NC. 2nd attempt was consistant flickering light, what I assume was in time with the timing. Still no start. Coil voltage on both posts 1 and 15 were consistant 11.9. Tried another believed good coil, which tested the same. Battery voltage was at 12.07. Jumped battery, so voltage was up to 12.75, still no start with cables. Tried starting once without jumpers, and voltage back down to 12.07. I noticed that Bentley doesn't bring this stuff up until 280-12, which is why I hadn't gotten to it yet... Is the power stage the same thing as the amplifier (280.12.9)? Thanks for help so far. Trying real hard not to give in to frustration. -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254030&rss=1 Thu, 24 Jan 2008 23:05 GMT Went back out to test again, and voltage readings are now steady for both posts 1 and 15 at 11.97! I tested the screwy part 3 times before posting it here, and they fluctuated all three times, and now they are consistent three times in a row! Battery is at 12.05. There are two blue wires coming into one connector on post 15. I don't know if the fact that it was snowing heavily the first time I checked would have anything to do with this... If so, sorry for the wild goose chase... -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254013&rss=1 Thu, 24 Jan 2008 21:03 GMT Went back out to test again, and voltage readings are now steady for both posts 1 and 15 at 11.97! I tested the screwy part 3 times before posting it here, and they fluctuated all three times, and now they are consistent three times in a row! Battery is at 12.05. There are two blue wires coming into one connector on post 15. I don't know if the fact that it was snowing heavily the first time I checked would have anything to do with this... If so, sorry for the wild goose chase... -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254005&rss=1 Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:25 GMT Thanks to all who've gotten me this far... This is a continuation from http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1251851, but I think that I've actually isolated the no-start issue (not dealing with the ecu's or fuel system), and someone might be more likely to offer suggestions if they don't have to dig through that thread... Special thanks to boxvolvo for setting me straight on the basics... "With the key on, KP II, not cranking you should see battery voltage ,12v+ on post #1 and on post #15 of the coil. If you don't have that voltage at #15, you have a bad wire or connection between the ignition switch and the coil." Post #1 has 11.99 volts (battery probably needs to be charged). Post #15 has variable voltage all over the place. So I'm assuming that I now need to: A) check and possibly replace connections at both ends (which means finding the ignition end... oh boy... something else to learn!). B) if that doesn't work, replace the wire... Talked with my farmer friend, and he stated that he thought there was also some precedence about the ignition switch failing? Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong... Lord knows it's happened a bunch of times already! Also, any suggestions or tips on how to most efficiently do this? I've not yet learned how to check wiring other than at the ends, and due to the salty environment, don't want to unnecessarily open points in the wiring if I don't have to. Also, it's another chilly day here, and I'm trying to stay warm, and yet still fix this puppy... They say the lessons you struggle to learn the most are the ones you remember the most... Thanks to everyone so far who has contributed to my education in this crash course in ignition systems... -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1253984&rss=1 Thu, 24 Jan 2008 19:31 GMT Thank you, boxvolvo! "With the key on, KP II, not cranking you should see battery voltage ,12v+ on post #1 and on post #15 of the coil. If you don't have that voltage at #15, you have a bad wire or connection between the ignition switch and the coil." Post #1 has 11.99 volts (battery probably needs to be charged). Post #15 has variable voltage all over the place. So I'm assuming that I now need to: A) check and possibly replace connections at both ends (which means finding the ignition end... oh boy... something else to learn!). B) if that doesn't work, replace the wire... Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong... Lord knows it's happened a bunch of times already! They say the lessons you struggle to learn the most are the ones you remember the most... Thanks to everyone so far who has contributed to my education in this crash course in ignition systems... -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1253967&rss=1 Thu, 24 Jan 2008 17:34 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1253542&rss=1 Wed, 23 Jan 2008 01:54 GMT I'm looking for a spare purple or preferably a white 572 fuel injection ECU. Are the 89-93 240s the only vehicles Volvo made with this ECU? Or can I be looking at other models for this? Thanks! -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1253320&rss=1 Tue, 22 Jan 2008 14:17 GMT Spark is weak or absent at both plug 1 and at coil. Will attempt to find a good coil to swap out, as I was unsuccessful in NC. You mention numbers for the coil posts (#1 and #15) I know there are definitely two with wires attached, and either one or two posts that are empty. (Sorry, not at home at the moment to check.) I've not seen the numbers - which is which? I will attempt to go through each of your steps on Sunday! Thank you again! ezsha -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1252131&rss=1 Sat, 19 Jan 2008 01:03 GMT "when the resistance you are trying to read is higher than the range set on the meter it will flash zero on the display." I was getting multiple-places-behind-the-decimal figures for the mid-higher ranges. It was easier to remember the whole numbers. ----- "Now, your "out-of-range" indication may be something different; maybe a solid '1' in the leading digit position with all other positions supressed... That information should be in the little folder that came with the meter." It's a borrowed meter, so I don't have the book, but it does have the 1 at the beginning. ----- "If you cannot get a reading to stabilize it is because of a bad connection." It would either not register, or have a variety of starting figures, and then eventually end up back to the out-of-range 1. ----- "Either the probe is not making good connection, or the test lead has a break, or the connector you are backprobing is not making a good connection, or a wire is broken, or a bad ground, or the sensor is broken internally. Make sure you are not touching the business end of the probe, that can induce false readings." I've been very careful about not touching the metal on the probes. Fortunately, they have a little shelf to keep fingers off. I kept going back to other sockets to check to make sure they still registered. ----- "If you cannot get a stable reading from the back of the connector, try probing the sensor directly." Thanks to lucid, I learned I may have been probing the wrong sensor. I need to check to see if there is one more towards the firewall. ----- "Use a can of freeze spray (Radio Shack) to chill the sensor." Will a high temperature of 10 on Sunday do the trick? ----- "Now heat the sensor (blow dryer, drop light, whatever) and watch the meter; it should come down." Any idea how to do this without lighting a candle? It's in an open parking lot with no electrical access. Will one of those chemical hand warmer packets work? This brings another question... what surfaces exactly am I checking? Is there an electrical connection inside the cylinder head, or am I checking it while it's plugged in or detached? ----- Well, I work all day tomorrow, so it looks like I'll be trouble shooting both my and my parents' '90 740 no-start on nice, balmy, single-digit Sunday. Thanks for the input so far... hopefully I'll be able to report back good news soon! ezsha -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1252119&rss=1 Sat, 19 Jan 2008 00:14 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1252108&rss=1 Fri, 18 Jan 2008 23:51 GMT I'm between Rochester and Niagara Falls. If you're interested, I can probably ship it UPS. Best of luck! ezsha -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1252087&rss=1 Fri, 18 Jan 2008 21:42 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1251899&rss=1 Fri, 18 Jan 2008 06:54 GMT Pull all the relays and check part numbers - a lot will work. The headlight stepping relay will work. I've exchanged the entire exhaust system to my '90. There are a lot of non-operational pieces that interchange. Body parts, especially on the front, are good. The door locks and hood and spring mounts are good to switch. I haven't done the trunk lid yet. Headlights and tail lights work as well. The front seatbelt/console setup is different, at least for the manual transmissions. The '90 fuel injection system also has another option - LH-3.1. If you have this option, it further limits some of the interchangeability on the fuel pumps. It also provides you with lots of room for learning experiences, and the parts are harder to find in a yard! (For future reference, pay attention to fuel injection ECU label colors and part numbers. There are definite performance preferences out there.) Feel free to ask if there is anything in particular, as I've done quite a lot of comparisons between the two when I was trying to get my '90 on the road... I just need a memory jog, as the list was so long! Best of luck! ezsha -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1251893&rss=1 Fri, 18 Jan 2008 06:16 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1251890&rss=1 Fri, 18 Jan 2008 05:52 GMT It does not have the door pocket. I have all 4 door panels, but I believe one might have a nick in it. Where are you located in NY? ezsha -- '84 244, Peter, never drove. Robbed to fix Paul, '86 244 - drove for 2 years; holey saint now, passing parts to Paul Jr, '90 244, now driving. Friends w/ '90 245, jokingly aka Mary, (pregnant sedan & completes PPM trilogy). Daughter to unnamed '90 745. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1251886&rss=1 Fri, 18 Jan 2008 05:42 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/