http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=39797 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:12 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:12 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I think the PV series actually originally produced some short bed (and short wheelbase?) pickups; they are classified as tractors and allow the owner to evade some sort of regulations or fees that apply to passenger vehicles... hence their popularity. Well, they would be cool even without the legal loopholes. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387653&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:37 GMT I just received some new splined bushings that fit between the wiper arm and the shafts coming out of the gearboxes. The new bushings are made out of brass, instead of zinc, and they are not splined on the inner bore that fits over the gearbox shaft. I'm guessing that I'm supposed to press the brass piece onto the gearbox shaft, and the splines will be cut into the brass during this process. Am I correct? Has anyone done this before? Any suggestions? Oh, and the gears on my old wiper assembly were worn out; I guess that's what happens after 500,000+ miles in the rainy Pacific Northwest. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387417&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:39 GMT My wiper arms are adjustable for both length and angle (Bosch). The splined parts are not loose, and wiggling the arms does not not produce any noticeable movement in the linkage. I suspect the slop is in the gearbox. I will remove the wiper assembly and inspect it more thoroughly. The suggestion of 10" wiper blades is a good one; I'm going to see what is on the car, and fit a shorter blade if appropriate. I'm also building a time-delay wiper controller, so I can extend the life of the wiper mechanism as much as possible. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385827&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:27 GMT I need to do something with the windshield wipers on my car; they sweep too far and hit the rubber gasket at the the bottom of the windshield. The motor is securely bolted down, the adapter pieces that go on the tips of the wiper arm shafts are not slipping, and I can't find any gross slop in the wiper linkage itself. This is not an issue that can be fixed by remounting the wiper blades at a slightly different angle; the wipers simply sweep too far. The first half dozen sweeps are typically OK, but then the degree of travel increases; as things warm up, I guess. What should I be looking at? Thanks Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385480&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 05:31 GMT Is your fan motor the type with the plastic fan? I'd be curious to know how much work you had to do to adapt to roller bearings. I talked to one of the older engineers where I work; he said the brushes need to be matched to the motor type and RPM range, and also selected for lifespan; less than 300 hours or more than that etc. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383116&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 00:20 GMT Some new changes to the VPD website; John Parker is recommending a return spring on the throttle linkage to help stabilize the idle speed on the Mikuni HSR installation. I'm in the process of fabricating the parts to install one on my motor; I'm very curious to see what will happen... Check the Articles section of his website for more useful information. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382904&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 03:17 GMT If the carbs you are fitting have fuel overflow tubes, such as Mikuni HSR's, you could connect the overflow tubes to the tank return line. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382903&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 03:11 GMT It's time to replace the brushes on my heater fan; the motor is otherwise fine. Can I machine down some new brushes if I can find something oversize to work with? I'd like to find brushes for the wiper motor too while I'm at it. All motors are made by Electrolux. The usual sources are coming up empty. Thanks Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382902&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 03:05 GMT Paint never lasts; I would get them ceramic coated. It will help keep your underhood temperatures down too. I had JetHot do my exhaust manifold, and I'm pleased with the results. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381696&rss=1 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:50 GMT Just raise the needles one or two stops richer, it should make a noticeable change, hopefully for the better. You need to disconnect the throttle linkages, or set the throttles all the way closed, otherwise you won't be able to lift the needles out (no obstruction above them) they should lift out with no resistance whatsoever. They bend very easily... circlips are easy to lose, as are the little plastic washers under the circlips. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381126&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 00:26 GMT You seem to be indicating that your mixture is going lean when you step on the gas, rather than rich. Higher numbers are leaner than lower numbers. Do you mean the AFR goes below 13.2, or is it shooting up to 17 or 18? If the needle is pegging at the high end of the scale, you might have a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak will also give an erratic idle, which can change with underhood and engine temperature. After you have checked every possible place on the induction and crankcase ventilation system for vacuum leaks, and repaired them, you can try adjusting the carbs. I had a lot of problems with vacuum leaks on my engine: brass plug on the end of the intake manifold, rubber covers on the unused vacuum ports on the Mikunis cracked and leaking, rubber carb to manifold couplers not tight enough, etc. My idle is currently around 12.5 or so, mixture goes up to around 14.5 to 15 when the throttle is first opened, then drops down to around 12.5 when cruising; probably too rich. My needles are at the richest setting right now, but the weather is getting colder so I will leave them be for a while. Idle speed varies with ambient temperature; consistently higher when in the low 40's or lower. Performance is pretty good; fuel economy is so-so. I tried setting the idle mixture leaner, but the car runs much better with it at 12.5 Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380916&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 03:13 GMT Actually, I'm wondering about something like that for my Mikuni HSR's; don't know if they would be narrow enough to fit, though. It, would be sweet if the stud spacing matched that of the rubber coupler/adapter on the Mikuni. What is the distance from center to center of the inlet bores? Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379707&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 21:54 GMT Is there an aftermarket SU manifold that works better than the factory one, and would the improvement in performance or economy be noticeable on a motor that's only been mildly warmed over (stock compression, B20F head and cam)? Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379622&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:50 GMT What I'm really curious about is how to safely add the barbed fitting to the tank. Is welding involved? Thanks Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378919&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:03 GMT How did you go about adding return lines to your fuel tank? I need to do something like that, and maybe connect an expansion tank too. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378795&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:37 GMT I've got some front drums that came off my old 64' 122 wagon, actually the whole front brake assemblies; I haven't gotten around to putting them on ebay yet. I could let them go at a reasonable price, assuming they will fit your 544. Contact me privately if your interested; I'm in the Pacific Northwest. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377782&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 04:02 GMT A guy I worked for years ago you to go from Michigan to California to bring back old Volvos to restore. He used a two wheel dolly all the time. He said he would strap a 50 gallon drum to the dolly and fill it up with water for the trip out, so the dolly wouldn't bounce all over the place. I once towed a complete 1800 using a two wheel dolly and a 145 with a tired engine; no problems. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377735&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 01:03 GMT Are you looking for front drums or rear drums? $200 each?! Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377733&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 00:56 GMT You know, if all you need to do is get fresh gas into the tank so you can drive the car to a locksmith, you could remove the gas gauge sender unit on top of the tank; 5 phillips head screws, and just pour gas into the open hole and close it back up again. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375940&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 15:13 GMT You need to take the Pilot Air adjusting screws into account as well, when you're trying to get a good idle; just remember that turning them clockwise makes the mixture richer, since the screws are regulating air, not fuel. For setting the idle I find it necessary to decouple the linkage between the two carbs; otherwise the there is unwanted interactivity between the two carbs idle settings. Once the idle is set for each carb I connect them back to the common throttle linkage. It's a good time to check for sticking or binding in the throttle linkage as well. I would suggest that you do not use the throttle linkage stop on the manifold; leave the throttle linkage free-floating. I typically sandwich a nickle between the tab on the accelerator linkage and the throttle stop on the manifold while I am making adjustments. Once adjustments are made and the nickle is removed the tab invariably moves a little closer to the stop; but doesn't quite touch. Yes, Mikunis seem to like to dribble gas out of the float chambers, maybe it's the ethanol in the gas, maybe they don't like being mounted tilted sideways on the manifold, maybe they don't like proximity to the exhaust manifold, maybe they are motorcycle carbs and have no business being mounted on old Volvo motors. Definitely do everything you can to keep the float chambers and fuel hoses as cool as possible. I will be making a more extensive heat shield one of these days, to see if it helps any. I'm already using a ceramic coated exhaust manifold, and a cold air inlet hose using a modified 140 series HIF6 airbox with two Kuryakin airbox adaptors. Lastly, make sure your fuel pressure is under 3 PSI. Don't use Scantech fuel pumps, use one of the sealed Pierburg pumps. If you must use a regulator, don't use one of those chrome plated dial adjust ones that sell for $23-30, get one of the Holley ones that cost $90 or so that people use with DCOE Webers. Please keep us informed, there is too little practical information on the Volvo/Mikuni conversion. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375575&rss=1 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 04:00 GMT Your carbs are set up the same as mine; My engine is a B20F as far as head,cam and exhaust are concerned. I'm using an MSD6A ignition with Pertronix kit and Pertronix coil. Timing is at 20 deg and premium pump gas. Simmons sport exhaust. I found it necessary to set the needles richer than you; they are currently at their richest setting; probably a bit too much for 90-100 deg. days, but the rest of the time it works quite well. I'm guessing you have to use some sort of ethanol blend gasoline? On a side note, do you have any problems with the idle being a bit low after a hot start?, and taking a couple of minutes to clear. Also do you find gas seeping out of the overflow hoses on the float chambers after shutting the engine off? Bill, in Oregon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375519&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 21:09 GMT First off: I'm going to say I have never worked on a tube car radio; I have repaired (and built) quite a few tube guitar amps and some HiFi equipment. I have seen some transistorized car radios that picked up their ground from the radio chassis making contact with the dash, firewall etc. I've also seen a black wire that would run from the radio chassis to chassis ground of the car. If there is a filter capacitor on the high voltage circuitry, probably connected to the plate of the power amplifier tube, you can see where that capacitor is grounded to. If the capacitor ground is connected to radio chassis ground you can assume the radio enclosure/chassis is also a ground point. If the car's electrical system is positive ground ignore what I said, because I know nothing about that subject and I won't make guesses. You may Antique Electronic Supply www.tubesandmore.com to be a useful resource for obtaining a new vibrator, tubes, high voltage capacitors, vintage radio grille cloth etc. If you don't know what not to touch, don't attempt to service this radio, as there is going to be high voltage present inside even after the radio has been switched off. Personally; I wouldn't even consider powering up a 60 year old piece of tube equipment without at least checking for leaky or shorted capacitors, including coupling capacitors. Also be aware that operating a tube amplifier without a working speaker reliably connected can destroy the output tube, output transformer, and/or rectifier tube. If you know all this already; I apologize for assuming you are ignorant in these matters ;) Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375154&rss=1 Sat, 26 Sep 2009 02:07 GMT If you just had the car aligned, make sure that the alignment shop bent over the locking tabs for the upper A-arm bolts. I had an alignment done by Les Schwab and they neglected to do this. The bolts started to back out, and the steering got sloppy. I don't go to Les Schwab for alignments anymore. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374465&rss=1 Wed, 23 Sep 2009 01:17 GMT One of my co-workers is from Vietnam, and he told me that old cars like my 122 are very desirable, and fetch high prices in Vietnam. He claimed my 122, which looks pretty good, would probably sell for about $10-12,000 over there... so vintage car replacement parts being made in Vietnam isn't such a strange idea, perhaps. Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374238&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 01:09 GMT Thanks for the info; I saw some other goodies that I want there too... Anyone know if the Bosch Micro-Edge blades come with an adapter to fit Anco (original Volvo) arms? Bill http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373963&rss=1 Mon, 21 Sep 2009 01:15 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/