http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=39209 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:51 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:51 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Hi, I'm planning on doing an auto to manual swap on my '86 740ti wagon, I already sourced out a good m46 from another 740ti and I know I need to find a set of pedals, a clutch master cylinder, and a flywheel and clutch, but am I forgetting anything? Will the driveshaft from the auto fit the manual or does that need to be changed also? Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358147&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 17:37 GMT "The coefficient of thermal expansion of aluminum is greater that that of brass, depending on the actual alloy. I would assume the transmission case is some aluminum alloy. To help loosen the brass plug, you should actually heat the area around the plug, not the plug itself for best effect." Yes and no, heating the case could melt or damage seals or even worst cause the case to crack (it is a casting after all) and using the wax method you are actually heating and then cooling the plug whitch expands the plug and then contracs it (cooling the plug with the wax) pulling the wax in the gap created in the threads. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358141&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 17:02 GMT The wax techinique is actually best to do in combination with the heat and shock technique... you heat the plug as hot as you can with your propane torch (slightly glowing is best) trying not to heat the tranny cassing as much as possible, then you take a stick of wax from a long enough candle so that you don't burn yourself if the wax catches fire (I find a 10" chandelier type candle with wick removed works very well for this application) and press the wax against the hot plug cooling it rapidly (thermal shock). This will wick the wax into the threads and provide lubrication as you try to loosen the stubborn plug. Note: if the wax catches fire reheat a little less and try again because the wax will have burnt off and not penetrated the threads (this is unlikely unless you use and oxy acethelene setup and have the plug near its melting point + the point at which the wax cathches fire depends on the type of wax used in your particular candle) If nothing works you can always do as I did and use a oil syringe found at most parts stores to fill your trany from the drain hole (just check for the amount specified in a repair manual or somone on the board surely knows what that amount is) ... you just have to be quick to put the plug back in after the syringes hose is removed from the hole. Once that is done and you have fluid in your trany go to a good repair shop which is equiped with welders and ask them to weld a nut or short bolt onto your plug and just replace it with a new one after its been removed. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358140&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 16:56 GMT I also need to know which sensors I can keep from the new engine and which I can't (are they all the same?) . The new engine is a '91 b230ft and the old one is an '86 (the original from the car), both are equiped with bosh injection. The new engine had a mitsubishi turbo while the old one has a garret (it was changed 5 years ago and works very well) which I plan to install on the new engine (I don't know whether the mitsu. is good or not), will the oil lines from the mitsu. fit on the garret or do I need to switch those over also? Thanks for the info!!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358135&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 16:25 GMT I bought a b230ft to replace my old one (the sound of piston slap was able to drown out the sound of my d24 engine running right next to it) in my '86 740ti wagon but the timing belt has been removed. I wanted to know if the b230ft engine is an interferance type engine or not (if there possibly is damage or not before I reinstall a new one), I know b21's and b23's aren't interferance but I'm not sure about the b230ft. Also I want to know if there is anything else that I should lookout for durring the swap. Thank you!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357292&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 22:57 GMT I had the same thing happen to me when I first bought my '86 740 turbo wagon. I was driving it from florida (where I bought it) to canada (where I live) when the belt broke at nine thrity PM in north carolina there were no 24 hour parts stores within five minutes of the exit that I took so I pulled into a gas station and looked the problem over properly. That is when I decided to try the ac belt which seemed close, it fit just fine and I drove through that whole night. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1178453&rss=1 Wed, 25 Apr 2007 08:16 GMT I personally don't think the red blocks get such bad millage concidering the age of the original design with some updates over the years. Plus the only volvo that I whould complain about millage wise is my 745 turbo but the extra power makes up for it. Otherwise I've been lucky the first vovo I ever owned was a 1986 245 with an m46 trany and I usually got arround 23-26mpg beating the daylight out of it arround town (never really had much mechanical issues for it either, but had to part with it because of the rusting chassis (was over 500k km when I sold it to a friend who still uses it as a daily driver). My latest red block car is a 1989 740 it now has nearly 400k km and gets great millage on the highway. Its transmission was switched from a m47 to a m46 I don't know how much the gearing is differant in these two trannys but last spring on my way to florida I managed arround 38mpg for a least two tanks driving arround 65-70mph windows up and ac off (thats better then what my parents peugeot 505 turbo diesel ever got (36mpg)!!!!) P.S. there is a great article on car weight vs power vs fuel economy in april 2007 issue of road and track magasine page 44 (no volvos in the article but it does talk about the differances in these three points over the years) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1170445&rss=1 Mon, 26 Mar 2007 22:40 GMT Thanks for the info John, I'm definetly going to try to find a 1989 or 90 for the swap. The only remaining question I have is whould it be worth the money to rebuild the engine I find before putting it into my car or are they usually good enough that there is no need to do so in most cases? My car as the turbo plus option is that a possible contributor to my current engine going south (appart from the previous owners obvious lack of proper maintenance). I can rebuild the junkyard engine myself but for the install I'm going to go to my local volvo garage (not dealer) to get the job done since I need to have a car durring the time I'm switching engine and the garage will lone me one while he's doing the swap. As for the questions on whether or not I checked the engine properly to see if it was really done for, the answer is somewhat; there is a loud sound that only sort of goes away at higher revs, and there is lots of blow-by compression (I haven't done a proper campression check though) and there are oi leaks from the top and bottom end (cam and crank seals as well as pan gasket) My machanic said the noise was piston slap and from what I've read it sue looks like it. Anyways thanks for the help!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1167380&rss=1 Thu, 15 Mar 2007 01:35 GMT Hi I have a 1986 740 turbo wagon in which the engine is going bad (has been making abnormal noises (piston slap) ever since I bought it in2002 but now its loosing power and burning lots more fuel than it used to). I want to do an engine swap this summer but I was wondering what was the best year for the b230ft engine? If I get one from the junk yard out of lets just say a 1989 for example will it just fit as is or do I need to put my old (1986) head on the new block so that all the injection system parts fit ex: fuel rail and injectors, sensors ect. thanks for the help. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1166443&rss=1 Mon, 12 Mar 2007 07:23 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/