http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=38833 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 04:52 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 04:52 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Thanks Guys. As usual, its reassuring to know you are always there to provide guidance before I start a job. The good thing is my 960 is "spare" right now so I'm not using it at the moment which means I can take my time on this. One more questions if I may: I have read elsewhere that its best to remove the front wheels and the skid plate to replace the belt. Is it really necessary to have access from the underneath or can I do everything from above? Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358256&rss=1 Sun, 5 Jul 2009 16:26 GMT Hi Thanks to all of you who've replied. I am now considering changing the timing belt, hydraulic tensioner and tensioning pullies myself. (And the serpentine belt and water pump while I'm at it.) I am pretty handy and once replaced the piston rings, valve seals and main bearings on my 1971 MG Midget, so I think I should be able to handle this job. A lot has been written about aligning timing marks on the camshafts/crankshaft. This may be a dumb question but: If you don't turn the engine over after you've removed the timing belt, and put the new one on with the camshafts and crankshaft not having moved from the original positions, then there should be no need to re-align the camshafts/crankshafts again-right? Or am I missing something? Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358215&rss=1 Sun, 5 Jul 2009 06:31 GMT Hi David In fairness to the mechanic, I did ask him to check the timing belt-he didn't suggest that might be the problem. You're right of course-thinking about it, there is no way that toothed belt would squeal. What was I thinking! It is due to be changed in about 10K miles. Last done at 81K and now on 150K. Of course, you're probably right-best to be safe than sorry. Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357848&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 19:03 GMT Hi I've got a 3.0 6 cylinder auto dating back to 1995. I've been getting an intermittent squeal from around the top/front of the engine. Usually just after starting for 5 mins or so then it goes away. The pitch of the squeal changes as I rev it. I have experienced this noise on other cars with loose belts but mine are OK. I also had a mechanic check the timing belt. He took the cover off and checked everything and says its not that. Then I thought, noisy water pump, maybe? Thoughts? Thanks Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357174&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 13:19 GMT Hi My front wipers won't park when turned off and the intermittant wipe does not work. I understand from the FAQs that this is a known problem and it advises me to check the wiring...... But how do I check it and what do I check for? Any advice would be most appreicated. Thanks Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254825&rss=1 Mon, 28 Jan 2008 14:45 GMT HI I think somebody must have painted your bumpers at some point. They should not flake like that. CP http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1182772&rss=1 Sat, 12 May 2007 22:25 GMT Hi All 1995 960 estate (Wagon) 3.0 auto Yesterday, some really strange things happened when I drove my 960. Firstly, I noticed that some of the electrics were not working: heater fan, fuel gauge, temp gauge, speedometer, tachometer. So, when I stopped at the lights, I turned the engine off and restarted it. All the electrics mentioned above came back OK, BUT, the little lights on the Economy and Winter buttons (on the side of the gear selector) stick started flashings on and off. (as one flashed on the other flashed off and vice versa but really quickly.) At the same time the "Up Arrow" on the dashboard was flashing on and off quickly. The gearbox still shifted fine although I did sense that at idle, with the brake pedal pushed on, it was not straining to pull away as much as normal... When I got home, I turned the engine off and on again and the flashing lights on the gearbox controls and on the dashboard up arrow had stopped. Any ideas? Thanks Peter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1171849&rss=1 Sun, 1 Apr 2007 08:19 GMT Hi All I have a 1995 960 with the color-coded bumpers. They are scraped on the edges although the paint has not come off. I was wondering if anyone has any tips on repairing them? I am wary of t-cutting the paint on the plastic as I think this may be too abrasive? Also, there is a small area of surface rust at the bottom of the front wing (near where the mud flap is). I thought these cars were galvanised and did not rust? Given the steel is galvanised, is it safe to rub the rust down to bare metal before repainting or is there another way to tackel this? (I don't want to rub away the "galvanisation" if there is such a thing?) Thanks in advance. CP http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1159623&rss=1 Fri, 16 Feb 2007 17:37 GMT Thanks everyone. Of cousre you are all right about going for the 4 cyl cars over the V6. I guess I was just tempted by all the goodies on this 760 gle I saw. But ou're right-repairs on the V6 would be a costly nightmare. Cheers Crazypierre http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1156234&rss=1 Sun, 4 Feb 2007 09:54 GMT Good evening from London. I am thinking of buying a 1988 760 V6 but have heard about how the earlier models are unreliable and problematic. Can you tell me if this one has the later (less problematic) engine or is this a problematic one? Its an early 1988 model with a 2,849 cc engine. (Not sure if they were all the same cc?) Its done 114K miles and is automatic. Apart from that, can anyone give me any tips on what to look for other than what is in the FAQ/Buying tips on this site. On another note, I am considering whether to buy a 740/760/940/960/v90 or perhaps go for the 200/240 series which preceded the 740/940. Can anyone tell me how the truck/boot size compares between the two ranges? Also, from a safety point of view, am I right in thinking the later range will be much safer for passengers from the strength of the bodywork perspective? Thanks in advance. Crazypierre http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1156086&rss=1 Sat, 3 Feb 2007 21:02 GMT Hi I am thinking of buying this car. Its done over 180,000 miles and has automatic transmission. Please can anyone tell me what to look out for and if there is anything known about this model/engine that I should check. (Its a UK spec car by the way.) Also, please can somebody tell me why the Turbos tend to be 1986cc engines rather than the usual 2.3 litres? Thanks in advance. Crazypierre http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152871&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jan 2007 21:14 GMT Thanks everyone for your replies-sounds like nothing to worry about on the fuel lines. BUT, I'm now worried about this leaking engine block business....Would it not have happened before now if it was going to happen? Or could it suddenly happen after 15 years and 100K miles? As one of you said-its low mileage for the year so I was quite keen on it till I heard about this porous block problem. Cheers Crazypierre http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1151687&rss=1 Wed, 17 Jan 2007 21:17 GMT Hi I am thinking of buying a 1992 960 2.9, 6 cyl Auto. Its only done 103,000 miles. The vendor tells me that a few months ago, it ran out of fuel and (having put fuel in again) it failed to start. He says they had to bleed the fuel lines and now it starts fine. Do fuel lines need bleeding like this or would you suspect another problem somewhere like the fuel pumps, injection system etc? I don't want to buy it if it has a fault of some kind. Thanks in advance Regard Crazypierre http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1151564&rss=1 Wed, 17 Jan 2007 12:08 GMT Thanks again William for all your tips and advice. I'll see what I can find at the breakers or on ebay. Happy New Year to you. Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1146808&rss=1 Sun, 31 Dec 2006 10:46 GMT William Thanks so much for taking the trouble of looking at your old carb for me. That's very nice of you thanks. Now all I need to do is find somewhere that will sell me that red plastic part-if its still available somewhere...... Thanks also for explaining how the auto choke works. Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1146703&rss=1 Sat, 30 Dec 2006 21:51 GMT Thanks William The choke was stuck in the open position hence the poor running till warm. But you're right-that does not explain the stalling when warm-I'll see how I go. Hmmmm, the broken red plastic thing is a worry though. If its a snap fit, then it is missing a piece for sure. Not too much of a problem that the auto choke doesn't work unless we get some really cold weather which is very rare in London and the 740 is a 2nd car anyway. Still-would be nice to get it working though. Tell me, what is it that makes the auto choke engage? Is it pressing the accelerator before starting? Or does the thermal spring (bimetal spring) engage it when the temperature drops? Thanks for all your help. Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1146621&rss=1 Sat, 30 Dec 2006 15:23 GMT Hi William Yes, its a Pierburg double barrel carb. The outside of it is so filthy dirty with oil/grease that I could not see any numbers other than on a tag that read: VOLVO 1357108 7 17952 51 I removed the plastic carb cover with the single nut. The choke butterfly valve was seized solid-I could not budge it. I cleaned up the mechanism, oiled it and freed it up with some pliers!. It now spins freely. HOWEVER, the L-shaped rod that comes up from the bottom of the carb (which I think is what makes the choke butterfly valve open and close) is not connected to the butterfly valve shaft. It is connected at the bottom (where I think there is a shaft to the thermal spring mechanism?) but flaps about loose at the L-shaped top end near the choke butterfly valve shaft. Should this L-shaped rod be connected to the chole valve shaft? There IS a dark red platic piece that sits on the choke shaft at about the right place where the L-shaped connecting rod sits but I can't see how the L-shaped rod connects to it....I think a piece of this red plastic bit (perhaps with a hole for the L-shaped rod?) may have broken off......so the L-shaped rod has nothing to connect to? The L-shaped rod does raise up as the engine warms up so I think the thermal spring part of the choke mechanism is working as it should.) Please can somebody confirm my suspicion about the drak red plastic piece? Perhaps when the choke mechanism seized, the L-shaped rod tried to pull down and broke off the pastic connector piece? But I can't see the choke thermal spring exerting so much pressure to break a piece of plastic? I did take a picture of the top of the carb if anyone would be kind enough to take a look at it. Also, the top inside of the carb is filthy dirty with a think black oily junk which is what must have caused the choke butterfly valve to seize solid. And the outside of the carb is just as filthy dirty with the same black/grease/oil. Any tips or help from anyone with the Pierburg carb would be appreciated. Thanks Pete, London UK http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1146610&rss=1 Sat, 30 Dec 2006 13:19 GMT Hi William Thanks for your message. Before I started the car today, I did as it says in the owner's manual and pressed the accellerator pedal (I think this engages the automatic choke?). It did not idle any faster and was about 800rpm. After a mile or so, I pulled over and the idle was much lower-below 500rpm which meant the engine was very nearly stalling. In answer to your question, the stalling happened after about 20 minutes of running so not as soon as the engine warmed up. I think the auto choke must not be working because it never idles higher than 900rpm when cold. Will take a look at the choke workings tomorrow as you suggest. But if its not working-then what? Is there any way I can free it up somehow? Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1146414&rss=1 Fri, 29 Dec 2006 18:44 GMT Hi Ian The running on was fixed by the previous owner. My problem is very low idling when cold. Been reading up and there is talk the IAC valve may be dirty or the engine breather/flame trap may be blocked? Will need to check all this out. Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1146209&rss=1 Thu, 28 Dec 2006 22:55 GMT Hi I'm in London, England. Yes, I thought you guys in North America would no have got the carb versions due to the emissions regs (I think) I don't know what type of carb it is. It was not that cold-about 3 or 4 centigrade so doubt it was iced up. I used it again today and it idles really slow especially when first started up-under 1000rpm-more like 700 rpm. In fact its so slow that it tries to stall at tickover and the red dashbord lights flicker as if its about to cut out. I thought the carb would have a mechanism to adjust the idle speed to suit the temperature? Not sure if this gives you any clues but I found a receipt from the previous owner who had the "Thermal part of the choke unit replaced to cure high idle speeds and running on" That was 6000 miles ago. Should I just adjust the idle screw so it idles a bit higher do you think? I see you have a '67 144-I had a '67 142 with twin carbs-great car-wish I'd never sold it-very rare in the UK. Cheers Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1146165&rss=1 Thu, 28 Dec 2006 18:45 GMT Hi Guys Merry Christmas to you all. 1990, 2.4 litre 4 cyl engine auto Drove my car in fairly cold weather today and once warmed up, it stalled as I came to a standstill at traffic lights. Never done this before and it started again immediately. It kept running at really slow revs and trying to stall after that. Any ideas what I should be looking for? Carb? electrics? air filter? Maybe too cold for it? I think this model has an auto choke and I pressed the accellerator down to the floor before I started it. Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1145295&rss=1 Sun, 24 Dec 2006 23:29 GMT Hi Guys Foolishly, I did not take any pictures before I reassembled everything and I can't bring myself to dismantle it all to take pictures. However, I have drawn a diagram and scanned it. I can't work out how to uplaod it though.......I would be more than happy to e-mail it to anyone who wants it though. Cheers Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1137404&rss=1 Tue, 28 Nov 2006 20:07 GMT Hi All I thought I'd share a cheap but effective repair I just did on my 740's tailgate trim. Like many of you, the 4 clips at the top of the trim were broken and loose meaning the whole trim flapped about like a sail in the wind. I considered buying one of those kits but figured with a bit of ingenuity, and my carpentry skills, I could sort something out myself. So, I removed the interior trim (as per instructions on the FAQs) and gained access to the inside of the tailgate. I cut two wooden battens about 1 inch X 2 inches x 5 inches and screwed each piece into the inside of the tailgate interior either side of the wiper pivot point at the centre. I attached each of the two pieces of wood directly into the tailgate (just below the window line and between where the 2 clips normally fit on either side). I used 4 metal self-tapping screws to hold the wooden battens to the tailgate (having first drilled 2 small holes into each of the wooden battens and then using the battens as guides to drill into the tailgate's internal frame). The tailgate is aluminium (I think) and was easy to drill into with a small hand-held manual drill (careful you don't use a power drill which may go through the outer panel of the tailgate!) With the 2 battens secured, I held up the plastic trim panel in place and refitted the 2 torx screws in the centre. I then and drilled 4 small holes (2 on either side) through the top of the trim panel so that the 4 screws could be screwed down through the holes in the panel and into the 2 wooden battens. You need to be careful where you drill the holes in the panel so as not to "miss" the wooden battens which (if you have fitted them correctly should be right beneath). I used 4 black round head screws (about 2 inches long) so it looks like a nice and neat job. Unless you really know that the panel should not have the round head screws in the top, anyone would think they are original factory fitted screws. Now, there is not a squeak or rattle and I am satisfied with a professional looking job. Plus I can still remove the panel easily for access to the motor etc. One final point-remove the platic clips from the inside of the trim panel prior to holding it up to the tailgate. Also, it helps to have an assistant to hold the panel tight up against the tailgate when you are drilling the holes through the trim panel so you are sure it is nice and tight against the tailgate. Please let me know what you think and if it works for you too. Finally-always remember the golden rule. Measure twice and drill once! Good luck Pete http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1137175&rss=1 Tue, 28 Nov 2006 01:07 GMT Hi Does anyone know if the front and rear leather seats off a 1988 740GLE will fit without modifications in a 1990 740 Base model? I think the GLE has an electric driver's seat whereas my base 740 has manual seats. (IS the electric seat adjustable manually?) Thanks in advance. Peter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1129915&rss=1 Fri, 3 Nov 2006 19:06 GMT HiScott I had a problem a few weeks ago when the dashboard "Up arrow" came on although I did not press the overdrive button. And, it still went into o/d. A chap on this forum suggested the relay had come loose and was causing the Up arrow light to come on. So, I made sure the relays were all pushed in firmly and the light went out. I hope that's all that's wrong with your car. Cheer Pete (London, UK) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1127025&rss=1 Wed, 25 Oct 2006 10:32 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/