http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=38691 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 07:21 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 07:21 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. just posting back to say she needed new radiator and thermo...they took care of her nicely. many thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385402&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 19:21 GMT disregard previous, he called back! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382323&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 18:25 GMT Chuck (or anyone) ... Terry's shop goes to voice mail and no callbacks yet, first tried yesterday. Any thoughts about someone else to try? Pretty sure it's a heater hose and it's coming out so fast we should probably get it towed. Maybe he'll get back to me but I should probably get busy looking for another option. thanks. Cal http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382321&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 18:16 GMT Chuck, thanks so much. Peace of mind is within reach. Cal http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382055&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 18:05 GMT She may have coolant loss, hard to tell. Talking her through steps over the phone can only do so much. If anyone knows a fair, volvo-savvy shop in Norfolk/Va Beach, that would be great. If not for this, she'll need it for something else, but we are both nervous about her driving it until we nail this down. Thanks in advance. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381991&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 15:05 GMT Thank you all. I'll keep these points in mind as I look into it more, and let you know what happens. This is an escapee from the clunker program. Meaning he didn't know about it until too late. He thinks it qualified, I don't know. Amazing to think it could have been junked. I'll be glad to give it a second life if things check out. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1380031&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 02:25 GMT Hi all. My next-door neighbor is selling his 850 turbo wagon for $2,500. Has 96K. I've got 2 240s and a 740 so when I looked at the engine etc, it was all so very unfamiliar. I'd appreciate any tips on what to look for/expect on this car. ie, expensive trouble points. good year for the 850? I'd have it professionally checked before agreeing to buy. Does the price sound good based on this little info? (It's under bluebook). It appears to have been well maintained but I'll look into that. Interference engine I believe so timing belt critical? I'm getting much better at fixing the other cars, due in large measure to my ongoing brickboard education, but wonder if I'd be starting from scratch with this. The body looks great, the engine compartment clean, the leather seats are in good shape with some wear on driver seat. That's about all I know so far. I won't haggle with him but take it or leave it based on advice and the checkup--seems the neighborly thing to do. Thanks for any thoughts. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1379967&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 22:01 GMT Perfect! A most lucid answer. It's been starting and starting and starting. What a relief. And I'll know what to do if/when it happens again. Let's say 'when.' Reminds me, I'm overdue kicking in some $$. I'll fix that now. Though I'd rather buy you all pizza. Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379284&rss=1 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 02:16 GMT been meaning to post back from early Sept. I ordered both taillights from lampsandlenses.com based on recommendation here. Very pleased...very fast shipping, great price ($38 apiece). I could not tell any difference between these and the oem in lens quality, fit, gasket etc. But I'll see how these survive the winter and report back if my first impression doesn't hold up. Thanks for the tips ...I appreciated the variety of opinion on this. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379282&rss=1 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 02:10 GMT I have developments to report and more advice to ask. A few days ago I connected the test lead up by the dipstick to the positive battery terminal and got sparks, clunks and then engagement of the starter. Today I did the same thing but turned the key to run first. Car started right up...and I quickly whipped off the jumper wire. Turned car off and then tried to start normally. It worked. I've tried this a dozen times since in the last hour and each time except once, it started. That one time, I was back to zilch. So I can't celebrate. Does this tell you the ignition switch should be replaced, or the starter? I don't know what I'm bypassing with the test...whether the ignition switch or the starter solenoid or what. I'm prepared to order whatever I should get, if I can only figure out what that is. Earlier test of the neutral position switch indicated it was not the problem. Jiggling key, the shifter Progress! Thanks to you all. But I'm not there yet. Hopefully this will clarify things for folks in the know. Cal http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379204&rss=1 Tue, 13 Oct 2009 19:35 GMT The neutral position switch bypass didn't help. I guess I'm left with ignition switch to order, or a shop to tow the car to. One thing nagging at me...although the starter engaged in the test, after some clunking, I'm wondering if it could still be the problem. If the test directs all the battery power to the starter, perhaps there's enough juice to make a failing starter engage. But it won't otherwise. Does this theory make any sense? Sorry to come back to the well so much on this one. Hopefully these steps will be useful to others as well as me. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378613&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:28 GMT I did just get the starter to turn, connecting the test terminal to the battery pos. I didn't have a switch, just wire, so it was kind of exciting. after a few loud and unpleasant noises, and sparks, the starter engaged and cranked away. but after, when I turned the key, car was back to its previous zilch. So I assume I can rule out the starter as the problem. Now I'll try to find that elusive blue connector and do the neutral position switch test/workaround. And if that's not it, then ignition switch seems culprit, as I understand it. I'm a real klutz with electricity, so the starter test was a big step. Thanks Paul and all. Back later. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378595&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 19:43 GMT Paul, with the panel off, I see a two-pin connector. a black wire and an orange one, both with bullet terminals, go into it. the wires seem to go up, hard to fiddle in there at night. should I keep looking? I see some blue in that mess of wires. others' comments on 25A fuse noted...yes it's good, and battery-starter wiring seems fine. There's a vacant terminal on the starter, assume that's for testing. Thanks Cal http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378217&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 01:06 GMT I have a voice inside my head telling me to check the 25s fuse. actually, I did and it *looked* good but I will replace it. and jiggle and check wires. and go after those switches/connections... meantime I'm declaring tomorrow bike-to-work day. thank you all..I will post back! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378203&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 23:28 GMT Thanks. I'm just back from a few tentative taps with a hammer handle. I'll get more aggressive. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378185&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 21:53 GMT Thanks, hope all is well your way. No key weight. I did find a cut-off white wire in the vicinity. I'll probably take a run at the park etc switch http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378175&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 20:52 GMT When I turn the key, nothing happens except I hear the whine of the fuel pump. No cranking, no turning over... This happened a few weeks ago intermittently over a few days. It would start and run fine, then zilch. Then back to normal. Normal means it starts right away, no struggle. Although the battery seemed strong, I topped up the electrolyte, cleaned the terminals and boosted it. It started and was fine until last night, during an attempted warm start. Today, I just installed a new battery and still zilch. The fuses are all fine. The lights etc are strong. I've shifted in and out of park, jiggled, still nothing. I'd very much appreciate thoughts on what else to do with this daily commuter. wagon/auto/250k+ thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378161&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 19:13 GMT Thanks, I'll order from them tonight and report if any problems. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369501&rss=1 Tue, 1 Sep 2009 21:00 GMT thanks. no I didn't mean vlvworld has folded, just that the option of calling them seems to have vanished and they've not been responsive to email. They're probably fine but I like to be able to talk to someone if there's a problem. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369500&rss=1 Tue, 1 Sep 2009 20:59 GMT I need the drivers side for the wagon (though could use both sides), because the plastic has disintegrated around the brake light holder. autolampsplus only lists passenger side. too bad b/c my previous experience with them was good. groton is $75 for aftermarket. lampsandlenses.com lists it for $38. has anyone had experience with them? it seems one cannot call vlvworld any more and they did not respond to email last time, so I'm passing them by. thanks folks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369108&rss=1 Mon, 31 Aug 2009 01:52 GMT Swear but don't despair. If what happened to mine happens to yours, you could try these steps: 1. Cuss. 2. When you turn off your car, make sure the lights are off. In my case, the high beam stayed on all day until the battery died, because of a short in the stalk mechanism. After getting a boost, the light still stayed on even when I removed the #2 fuse. Go figure. But jiggling the dangling stalk finally got the light to go out. 3. Once united tools, take off the small panel over the stalk, then remove the other panel in the way. 2 screws on the dashboard (one under a plastic flip-off thing) and 2 screws under the steering wheel, in my case. 4. remove the wires and the stalk, take it apart if it hasn't flown apart, clean and reassemble. make sure not to lose little springs etc. I found a broken-off metal tab in mine. The case snaps back together but I wrapped wire around it to make it more secure. 5. reattach and try it. check fuse if it doesn't work. Mine came back to life -- except no high beam. which is fine for now, and for a long time. vlvworld in montreal had a used one for $20 but you can no longer call them, and they did not respond to email, so I'm afraid I'm done with them. I wanted to know which end of the 5-15 day shipping window for used parts I would experience. Groton has them new for $55 or so. Just wanted to pass on my experience in case you find yourself holding the stalk like a turkey drumstick. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364378&rss=1 Fri, 7 Aug 2009 00:50 GMT I'm belatedly reporting back on my old post below, with gratitude as always to those who pitched in. Jim (mcduck) nailed it -- it was a heater hose on the 245. I couldn't figure how coolant could be spraying so far forward -- on the amm and nearby, from a leak by the firewall, but there you have it. I didn't feel up to the hose job and was well pleased with the mechanic who comes by your house, takes the car to his place, does the work there and brings it back. very very reasonable. earlier, I replaced the thermo housing, thinking it was coming from there. It wasn't. As for the 740, some sealant took care of that. maybe I'll pay the price the next time I need to change the thermo. all the best. -- old post: Hello all. Scanned the faq and not seeing my pair of problems exactly. I replaced thermostat gaskets on both cars today and it didn't help either one. 245 auto 260k: A week ago, stuck in rush hour highway traffic, car started spewing steam. pulled over and saw coolant shooting from a hole in the upper radiator hose like a geyser. it did not overheat though was getting close. I moved the clamp over the hole, got home and replaced the hose and thermostat (but not the gasket until today). Thought I was back in shape, but I'm still losing coolant at rate of maybe a gallon a day, enough to knock out the heat. can't tell from where except seems the drivers side. radiator and water pump look fine. coolant dripping under engine when running. any thoughts on how to track this down? oil on the stick looks normal. 740 auto 250k: coolant has been seeping from thermo housing (or very near it) for a long time. I finally scraped away the alien gunk that looks like it came out of a bat cave, and replaced gasket. no better. maybe even worse. I cleaned the mating surfaces. should I replace the housing? is there sealant/liquid gasket in a tube for the mating surfaces? I've got those nuts cinched very tight. Sorry to go on so long....this is a 2-in-1 deal. Thank you in advance for any tips. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364373&rss=1 Fri, 7 Aug 2009 00:33 GMT Thanks to you and Joe. I just wish I knew it was coming from the housing. I had similar problem at same time with the 740, and did clean the head and apply sealant to both cars. 740 is ok now. I cleaned but did not sand both, noticed some crap but not obvious pitting, and may or may not have applied the proper bed of sealant...I didn't use much. Since then, the mechanic replaced the 240 housing. I don't know what care he took cleaning the head etc. It was obvious on the 740 that the housing was leaking; not so much on the 240, since there is spray everywhere in the area and not the familiar dribble. I'll take another run at it before submitting to the caddy dealer again, and post results. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357428&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 17:35 GMT They also sent me the wrong part, the wrong piece of the timing belt cover. Shipped it back according to their process but was never credited with the return. (I ended up patching my cover instead of ordering a new one.) However, so much time passed before I noticed this, that I never followed up. So I'm not knocking them on that, and other orders from them have been fine. Just mentioning this as a cautionary note to check that you actually get a refund when you return a part, from anywhere. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357414&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 16:44 GMT Previous suggestions were gratefully received but I'm still in hot water (coolant). I ended up taking it to the local Caddy dealer, b/c mechanic there loves old bricks and I got a healthy discount since my son worked there until about a week ago. They did a pressure test and diagnosed the thermo housing, plus a small head gasket leak that I was told not to worry about. However, the new thermo housing did not make a difference, I realized after bringing the car home. expansion tank empties and the heat stops working after maybe an hour of operation. Coolant drips from AMM and nearby parts in the front of the drivers side under the hood. (which is why I doubt the heater hoses). I can't see it leaking under operation, revving engine, or checking after engine turned off. But it's coming out. So I fear the head gasket is worse than diagnosed but wanted to check with you all once more before I take the car back and see if there's anything I can try. upper radiator hose has been replaced along with thermo housing and gasket. this daily commuter (280K) has been a real trooper but not sure how much is worth spending on it at this point. Thanks in advance for any further thoughts. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357411&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 16:34 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/