http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=38450 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 10:59 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 10:59 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Sean, Good to see you back on the board. I was looking for your contact info the other day actually after wondering what you had been up to. Expect an note from me shortly. We set the points to spec which kept the dwell at 60 degrees for 10 minutes of idling. After we restarted the car, the dwell starting increasing to the point that it started running poorly. I am going to bring a known to be good spare distributor over this week and test it out. Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382339&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 19:52 GMT George, This might be a good time to try out the 75' electronic ignition setup that came with one of my parts cars. It appears complete with black box, dizzy and wiring harness. It is not doing me any good just sitting on the shelf. Upon further thinking, we presume the issue may be related the points melting due to an aftermarket coil that was recently installed that requires a resistor. I noticed today that it did not have one after I saw the note written on the side of the coil that it required a resistor. Our first step is going to be to add the appropriate ballast resistor to the coil and see if this remedies our problem. Sounds logical if its getting too strong of a spark that the it would cause the points to melt, right? I will also check for play in the distributor shaft and report back. Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381946&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 04:19 GMT I have been helping a friend with his 122 that is having issues with the points on his original B18 distributor closing to down to .012 from the initial set point of .016 in a matter of minutes after running the engine. The dwell goes from 60 degrees to almost 70 degrees. This is a new problem that has arisen recently as the car has been used as a daily driver for the better part of 4 years. In an effort to fix the problem he ordered a set of points from IPD and made sure to lube the contact point between the cam on the distributor and the points themselves. This has not helped. My first thought was that he was not tightening down the set screw tight enough, but after checking it is as tight as it can go. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381877&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 20:56 GMT I would be very interested to see this setup. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376274&rss=1 Wed, 30 Sep 2009 18:13 GMT more info here: <a href=" http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=294357 target="_blank">http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=294357 </a> My local Volvo dealer wants almost $100 a piece for the OEM front shocks. At $17 a piece, this sounds more within my budget for a daily driver. I spent a good amount of time scouring the web, and only came up with Bilsteins ($110) from Mattais at SkandixUSA. Thanks for providing this number. The dimensions sound about right http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367114&rss=1 Thu, 20 Aug 2009 06:11 GMT In order to free up space in my garage so I can proceed with shooting primer on my 544 project, I needed to hang the tail of the M41 I swapped into my BW35 wagon. The cross member for the M41 sits about 3 inches forward of the BW35 cross member. I have seen some photos using angle iron, but I can not seem to find them when I search. Is this the best solution? I tried using angle iron today, but found the angle iron I had around the house was too flimsy to support the three inch extension and it interfered with the brake line / fuel line hold down clamp that is near the driver side mounting location. Also, I can not seem to find the mounting bolts in my box of labeled parts bags. Does anyone know what size bolt I need for the cross member? Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366473&rss=1 Mon, 17 Aug 2009 04:49 GMT Dean, It sure was. I got a heck of a deal on it, and decided it was worthy of saving. We have made a good amount of progress in the past two weeks. I will have pictures and updates along with questions soon. Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364910&rss=1 Sun, 9 Aug 2009 18:29 GMT Great looking 444 you have there Leonard. The systems approach is the way to go. I think my systems approach of starting with the body is COMPLETELY backwards, but I'll live and learn on this one. Can't turn down a good helper! I'll need all the luck I can get. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362505&rss=1 Tue, 28 Jul 2009 05:02 GMT Phil, Would you recommend I start with an 80 grit paper? There is so much conflicting information out there, I really did not know where to start, so I just ordered what the book I picked up from the library recommended. I can still modify my order as the backing plate is on back order until Wednesday... The self etching primer seems like the way to go. I've spent more time that I care to admit reading through threads about all these different primers merits. Everyone has their own opinion on putting body filler before or after the primer, but I assume either way seems to work. This is the process order I intend to follow: 1.) clean bare metal panel with wax and de-greaser, allow to flash 2.) Spray with self-etching primer 3.) Do the body work 4.) Guide coat and block 5.) Spay on a high build primer 6.) Dive into $50 paint project Good call on the brake cleaner. I managed to get that just a drop of that in my eye a few months back working on my daily driver. It was not much fun for anyone involved when I came into the house hollering for water. Needless to say, Ill be wearing glasses when working with that stuff. I've always worn gloves, but was just rushing through to finish the car in time for day light and paid for it dearly. I think the saw horses with some clamps and bungee cords will be just the ticket. I have two folding ones at my disposal that should be great. Thanks for all the advice. I will report back with progress and photos. Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362504&rss=1 Tue, 28 Jul 2009 04:58 GMT Kai, I could not stand to hear this guy say he was going to send this car to the crusher if he did not find a home for it soon, so against all good judgment, which I seem to exhibit frequently around round fender Volvos, I decided to bring this home. I really appreciate the honest advice about media blasting. I had considered that route, but the ball park quotes I got were around $500-700 for an outside job (billed by the hour) and about double that for inside and out. That did not include shooting the car in primer, which around here would need to be done very shortly after the blasting, if not onsite. Not to mention transportation and time. I am paying the brother $10 an hour, and hope to get some paint and body work done on the car in those 120 hours. Since my material costs are going to be pretty low, I think the $1200 labor + $200 material costs should seem reasonable to walk away with a decent looking 10 foot paint job. I could be crazy and really off on this, as I understand these projects (like most) rarely stay on budget and have huge cost overuns. So far I've been toying with two ideas. The second one seems to make more sense: 1.) Strip the panels individually and shoot in an epoxy primer. Invest in a decent compressor and HVLP set up. Build a crude paint room in the garage out of plastic sheeting and make sure to have proper ventilation. Do the body work we are capable of and hire my crazy art car welder friend to help me with the parts I can not do. He has assured me that he only accepts payment in the form of beer. I think I can do that. 2.) I am seriously considering the $50 paint method that has been discussed widely over the internet and even here on the BrickBoard, so I will not go into all the gory details involved, but it seems pretty straightforward. 3 cans of Rustoleum, Mineral Spirits, and High Density Foam Rollers. I have explained the grunt work involved with wet-sanding after each process to the brother, and he seems agreeable. If we go this route I will make sure to take LOTS of pictures detailing what we do and put them up on my website. <a href="http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html" target="_blank">$50 Paint Job on Corvair</a> <a href="http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1" target="_blank">$50 Paint Job on Mopar Board</a> The plan for my day off tomorrow is for us to get some cans of Self Etch Primer, a proper respirators, wire brushes of all sorts and sizes, and the supplies for the $50 paint job. I will keep you all posted through this thread on our progress. I am sure this will be a good bonding experience and hopefully we will learn a lot. Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362502&rss=1 Tue, 28 Jul 2009 04:42 GMT Looks great. I second the comment about 10 hours behind the random orbital polisher! It will work wonders, but elbow grease works almost as well. I'll be looking forward to seeing some pictures when you get it all polished. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362310&rss=1 Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:00 GMT Here are some web quality photos I took at the shop I picked it up at. The guy decided to fix up a 48' Ford pictured in the last photo. <a href="http://s843.photobucket.com/albums/zz359/texasamazon/?action=view&current=100_0180.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz359/texasamazon/100_0180.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s843.photobucket.com/albums/zz359/texasamazon/?action=view&current=100_0174.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz359/texasamazon/100_0174.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s843.photobucket.com/albums/zz359/texasamazon/?action=view&current=100_0173.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz359/texasamazon/100_0173.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s843.photobucket.com/albums/zz359/texasamazon/?action=view&current=100_0177.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz359/texasamazon/100_0177.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s843.photobucket.com/albums/zz359/texasamazon/?action=view&current=100_0186.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz359/texasamazon/100_0186.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362308&rss=1 Mon, 27 Jul 2009 07:49 GMT I am going to hire my girlfriend's high school aged brother and keep him busy for the rest of the summer working on my 65' PV and getting it ready for body work and paint. I want to pay him for about 120 hours worth of labor over the course of about 6 weeks. He is a smart guy and works hard, so I am hoping to make some headway on this project and for my money go towards his goal of saving up for a car. I would like to add that my end goal for the PV is a respectable daily driver done with my college sized budget with most of the work done by the two of us with help from our local Volvo gurus. The car has some rust issues and I will try to include some photos in a subsequent post to show you what I am working with. I talked with Shannon about it today (sdewolfe around these parts) and he suggested a panel by panel approach to stripping and priming. I have a 5" electric DA sander (Porter Cable 7424XL) that I just ordered sandpaper for. I purchased 25 each of 40 grit, 100 grit, and 180 grit paper. I also sourced suitable simi-rigid backing plates and dust masks. A couple of questions: 1.) What can we use as a suitable stand to work on each piece? Ive seen the body shop folding stands, but I sure someone on the board might have a more cost effective and sturdy solution that keeps the piece in place while we are working. I am wondering if the best bet is to leave the panel in place for some of the work and then remove it for the corners and such. 2.) What should I treat the bare metal with before I prime? There is an overwhelming amount of information regarding this on the web and I need some suggestions. Keep in mind: I am in Houston, the birth place of humidity. 3.) I do not have a powerful air compressor, so I can not shoot the primer on. I think this rules out all the PPG DLP stuff I've read about. What is a good primer that I can roll on piece by piece and will be compatible with a decent paint? Is this a bad approach as I will be putting body filler over this primer later? 4.) What is the best way to tackle the rust and bondo issues we are sure to discover? Should we just poke the bondo out and start over or sand it smooth and just go with it? I assume the later, but don't want problems down the road. When we encounter substantial rust, what is the best policy for containment until I can get the body shop to weld in new pieces. The rear of inside lip of the trunk is non-existent, but oddly the spare wheel well is pretty solid. The floors look good enough too. Whew, this was a long one, but I need some serious direction. Thanks! Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362302&rss=1 Mon, 27 Jul 2009 06:49 GMT I pulled the pulley and sure enough, the key that I thought I had aligned was a hair off and had not seated properly. That little key/"nib" (and it is very little, around 1.5mm tall on mine) as Bruce called it is hard to confirm that it is truly locked in place. I put some hot pink nail polish on the groove for the key on the harmonic balancer and carefully snugged up the bolt. I verified that it was seated properly by starting the engine and observing that the pulley was no longer wobbling. Now I have to figure out why my temp gauge and fuel level gauge went out. They were working fine when I went to put in the new harmonic balancer. I could not find the fuse that they are so, so I need to do some reading. Thanks Brickboard. Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1348784&rss=1 Thu, 14 May 2009 19:46 GMT Bruce, Thank you the rope trick. Shannon(sdewolfe around these parts) taught me how to do it and gave you credit for it. I made sure that the nib/key/nook/ was seated before I torqued it down. I will double check. I am going to take the belts off and run the engine temporarily without them and see if that makes it run more smoothly. Just clarify from the posts below: it is the pulley that is wobbling back and forth. I can not make it move side to side as I could with the worn out harmonic balancer, so I will take that as a good sign. Will report back with results soon. Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1348771&rss=1 Thu, 14 May 2009 17:49 GMT My 87' 740 with a B230 had a worn out harmonic balancer. The rubber had separated from the pulley and was causing the belts to slip and make terrible noises. I ordered a replacement from napa ($71) and installed it this morning. I put on the belt for the power steering and water pump and the belt for the alternator. I left off the belt that drives the A/C compressor because my system is low on freon. I removed and torqued the new harmonic balancer using the rope trick and got it on there good and tight. It wobbles about 3mm to each side. Is this because I do not have the A/C belt on? I made sure I got the key seated before I torqued it down. The pulleys for the power steering and alternator look fine and the belts are tight but not too tight2. Could this just be a poorly balanced new harmonic balancer? Could this be a crankshaft bearing issue? (I did't notice it wobbling like this before) Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1348767&rss=1 Thu, 14 May 2009 17:35 GMT Abe, Sorry to hear about the piston and I will file this away in my memory to make sure I get my advance set correctly. I have a few incomplete piston sets and rings for a B18. Not sure what you are running, but if you need a single one, I am sure we could work something fair and reasonable out. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1343796&rss=1 Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:22 GMT neat site, I spent some time looking around and realized how many movies the old volvos show up in. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1320701&rss=1 Sun, 21 Dec 2008 03:11 GMT I have never heard of having plugged OD switch on cars not equipped with OD, but then again most of my parts have come off older amazons... That makes the conversion one step easier. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1319998&rss=1 Wed, 17 Dec 2008 23:28 GMT About the 4th gear lockout switch.... If you are going to use the long shifter you have in your car now, you will need to drill and tap the cover of your M40. Its a M16 x 2.00mm tap that you will need. Danny has my tap and drill bit right now, but I think you might be able to get him to ship it your way next when he is done with it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1319887&rss=1 Wed, 17 Dec 2008 05:01 GMT Sweet video Nathan! I love the Brit's sense of humor. That 122 and the 544 sure do look beat up. I wished I had learned how to drive on a skid pad, or at least had more experience. That video with the kid the Yaris was funny. I think Finland's approach to learning to drive is a great system, but I wonder if we could make that work here in the states. Finland's population is about equal to that of the greater Houston area.... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1319801&rss=1 Tue, 16 Dec 2008 22:41 GMT my volvo art car. The Sahshi is AMAZING and participates in the same parade as I did last year. <img src="http://www.orangeshow.org/v2008/images/277.jpg"> ps: anyone in houston area want to store the art car at their house? I need space for the 544 I am bringing home this week http://www.brickboard.com/STORIES/?id=1316593&rss=1 Fri, 28 Nov 2008 21:16 GMT Thanks for sharing that. That looks like an interesting film. Cool shot of them in the Amazon driving. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1315679&rss=1 Sun, 23 Nov 2008 15:16 GMT Danny , Its an M16 x 2.0. I just tapped an M40 cover I swapped onto my M41 that had the remote shifter. I wanted to use the long shifter, and not cut up the tunnel to accommodate the short shifter. If memory serves me correctly from my lurking, you are in New York right? I can mail you the tap and proper sized drill bit for the cost of shipping if you want. I think all together it was about a $40 proposition for one hole, and it was a pain to track down the drill bit and tap locally. Tyler http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1314000&rss=1 Thu, 13 Nov 2008 17:46 GMT I'm not sure I'd like the way they look, but you if you find some Recaros from an 02 BMW or an early 80's VW Jetta or GTI, there are brackets available that let you bolt them in. Having never sat in an old Recaro seat for any length of time, I can't vouch for the lumbar support, but I remember reading about the swap in an old thread... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=956206&show_all=1 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1308989&rss=1 Tue, 21 Oct 2008 00:59 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/