http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=38265 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 22:54 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 22:54 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Randy I spoke too soon Yes, I have an auxilary electric fan apparently that relay has been blown shince owning the car, cause I never heard it run I will try re soldering the relay and see how it goes I did open them and they were gone gone gone Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357255&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 19:31 GMT Randy, I could kiss ya well I have 2 relays, tried swapping them, still nothing I then jumped 3&4 from left side plug a sweeter sound I have not heard I have a clutch fan not electric I took both relays out and they both were fried, I think beyond repair, so unless relay is $100 plus I won't both messing with them now back to the darn codes If there were no codes of course I would address the holy trinity CPS fuel pump relay and RSR but since there were other codes I went that route, ignoring my instinct SO fellows you have been marvelous to all, TRUST your gut check the basics and when you get the answer write back, thats what makes this work right Cheers Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357246&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 18:48 GMT no start, but fires great when I put some fuel into brake booster vacuum I get error codes 1-2-1 2-2-3 3-1-1 3-2-1 I don't believe any of these will cause a no start It was suggested unplug MAP and she should start, she didn't fuel injectors don't seem to be firing was wondering about the fuel system control unit/ this is what gives the injectors their signal right??? if so where is it located and is there a way to test it for a signal I doubt all injectors died at once Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357118&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 02:00 GMT Greetings all I am not clear whether a faulty MAP sensor will cause a no start first to clarify I have a fault code 1-2-1, am I wrong to believe this to mean the MAP? so I read what I could find on it in the FAQ's got a testing procedure along with my chiltons with A & C I got 5 volts so I check pin B and A before I have it turn over( with vacuum hose connected to manifold) I get 4.9, close enough to 5 volts I guess, then I ha someone turn over the motor, volts did drop but just to like 4.6, 4.5 volts now the faq procedures didn't mention a lower value, it just says should drop to a lower number, if it does not drop replace sensor chiltons mentions sensor may also be checked with motor running: at idle sensor should read 1.2-1.6 volts now my 4.5 seems to be a far cry from 1.6 ALSO I am confused sense I have a no start how can I let the motor idle to test something that may be preventing the motor from running?????? Guess what low and behold someone beat me to the punch I removed the map sensor from the metal case and what do I see yes a GM part I may just get another MAP sensor, but as I am planning to sell the car within 30 days I don't want to buy unnessary parts suppose to sell it to a relative, a non car, non volvo guy ????? but thats another story Thanks all I will keep you informed so all this to ask is a value of 4.5 ok for a sensor when the motor is just turning over, not running????? Liam in Montreal moving back to the states soon, I miss all the awesome auto parts stores, we have next to none here http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356834&rss=1 Fri, 26 Jun 2009 23:17 GMT So I went back dumped in a bit of fuel into master cylinder (brake) vacuum hose she fired right up then I bypassed the fuel pump relay, fuel pump works Am I right in thinking it (fuel) is getting pumped, but not into intake manifold presure sensor/ is that the pressure regulator for the fuel injectors??? is my problem related to washing the motor or just coincidental? If I remove the fuel line before the fuel manifold will it spray out, think I may try it or does it pump only as long as the motor is running I replaced the fuel pump relay, not to long ago, could it have failed again? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356156&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 22:13 GMT Thanks cooltouch I was hoping it would be so simple this actually happened yesterday at 1:30 pm so it has been sitting for a day now it sounds like something is really off, it stalled a block away from my house, a bit inconvenient but better than miles away I think I will go and check fuses, I wish it was at the house so I could take the compressor to it and help things along Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356080&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 17:16 GMT Greetings all I am embarassed as I have been doing this for 30 years, but not with my 740 so I gave it a quick motor wash, then drove it , it was cutting out a bit after a few kilometers, of street driving it just quit, so I took off plug wires and coil wire, shot them with electrical cleaner, dried them all up, still no firing noise popped out the fuel relay disconnected and reconnected the battery still nothing I did a code reading and came up with these 1-2-1 presure sensor signal absent or faulty 3-1-1 no speedometer signal 3-2-1 signal to cold start valve short circuited to ground or missing I just realized perhaps I should have checed all my fuses in my Chiltons I find not reference to pressure sensor What and where is it? cold start valve short circuited, again where is it and would it prevent me from starting/firing speedometer signal, my speedometer works fine, but could this prevent me from starting and where is it as usual I am sure its a quick fix but I have never had this problem I really did a light rinisg not as thorough as in the past, yet it seems to have buggered things up thanks in advance for any input, you all are great and have saved me before when the fuel relay went out sorry, forgot to mention it turns over fine, just no spark or firing cheers Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356075&rss=1 Tue, 23 Jun 2009 16:42 GMT BTW I am from Montana never had winter tires, and always had RWD well in Quebec, they passed a law this year, requiring all good people to purchase them as I was expecting a baby this year ( he has arrived) I did not want to take chances so I put on some nokian with studs AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME nothing stops me, I am pulling ahead of the front wheel drive folks they are quiet smooth great ride, better than my pirelli all seasons can't say enough good things not like the old noisy studs have no hesitation in suggesting anyone get them you won't be sorry Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1321203&rss=1 Tue, 23 Dec 2008 23:36 GMT this is a tricky one so the little light saying a bulb is burnt, came on so I went out and looked passenger side the 2 top lights (rear) taillights were not working, so I pulled off the cover, and the kit that holds all the bulbs, well both bulbs are fine then noticed that the backlight for the seat heaters and the shifter were not working amymore, for some reason I tried the sliding dimmer (next to clock adjustment) when I turned down/off the lights for dash, radio, temperature controls//// the backlight for the shifter and seat heaters came on also another issue, this has going on for a while does anyone else experience the orange shift arrow comming on when you start up the car, is does not effect the overdrive, it still shifts fine and quickly goes out by itself any thoughts Thanks Liam in Montreal http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1321200&rss=1 Tue, 23 Dec 2008 23:19 GMT Happy holidays to all as my seat stopped heating I popped out the switch to see what was up the solder on one lead was gone while I am in there I thought whay not fix the light in the switch, indicating it is on well it is tiny and no markings that I can see I went to Radioshack but the people there well...... I got a 25 ma bulb, but I have my doubts can anyone tell me what might the proper bulb be for this switch? also as far as ratings when they are small is a 60 ma or a 25 ma bulb brighter? Thanks Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1145916&rss=1 Wed, 27 Dec 2006 20:44 GMT I feel like an idiot no owners manual, but the chilton's isn't any use its orange round with 6 rays coming out like sun an exclamation mark inside a little square hat on top first time it came on when depressing brake pedal then the next few brakings, then didn't come on now each time I start and take off, the first few times I hit the brakes this lights up I guess I am not the first Thanks guys as usual, your input is useful and much appreciated Liam what do you guys think abouyt the 100,000 k badges??? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1108792&rss=1 Sat, 26 Aug 2006 04:20 GMT I understand that it is a given, these guys will get leaks between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe just replaced the gasket and yet I feel the air and get that pfff pfff pfff it drives me nuts I understand the only way to properly solve the problem is to repalce the studs on the manifold any thoughts? any tricks? I hesitate, what if a stud breaks yikes I believe they should be solid, does one need a stud remover? I have no torches, was thinking of putting it intothe oven, then dip the studs in cool water good idea, very bad???? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1108070&rss=1 Thu, 24 Aug 2006 03:14 GMT I got some feedback for the powersteering, tranny, r4earend, many folks said use the synthetic but for the motor, what are the pros and cons still use the standard filter? after how many km do you change? if it ain't broken don't fix it I have 250,000 km is that a consideration" I understand it stays more liquid in winter which of course is a huge plus any feedback would be greatly appreciated Thanks Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1107143&rss=1 Mon, 21 Aug 2006 15:09 GMT well guys I took off the IAC cleaned the bejesus out of it and voila its one of those things you can't put your finger on, but it just runs better I would suggest to all, it will do no harm, I just keep shaking and shaking with carb cleaner, JB Blaster, gas, little bits just kept coming and coming when reinstalling, I cleaned the hoses, checked the condition of the hoses and how they seal so mode 1 has been reset mode 2 the led just continues to flash forever mode 3 seems to be cycling something clicks near intake manifold then it flashes then the 2 relays byt the coolant resavoir I believe 1 is the radio supprsion thing a ma jig, the other ???? anyone ever experience this??? BTY it is an automatic, I like to tweek, it will be interesting to see what I can get it up 2 at $1.17 a liter CDN I want to squeeze everything I can I will try out the suggestions and let you know Thanks Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1105681&rss=1 Wed, 16 Aug 2006 19:04 GMT Does anyone have any tricks to optimize milage? I have 250,000 km on my 740 in town I get 24 mpg hwy 28 mpg at a solid 120km is this ok? I would be curious to know what is the best milage someone gets I plan to check plug wires &distributor change air filter change fuel filter check plugs tires are always properly inflated also thinking about insulating air intake tube as cooler air is more dense, it seems that the cooler the air, the better the return on fuel if it can be insulated from the heat of the engine compartment seems like it should make a difference http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1105484&rss=1 Wed, 16 Aug 2006 04:56 GMT Henry you are leading me exactly a week or 2 my car would not start 91' 740 it would not start, it turned out to be fuel pump relay I just took it out and put it back in, since I have bought a new one today the service engine light came on, I also got diagnosis problem as 2-2-3 but I have no symptoms mode 2 and 3 just go crazy with blinking led too much too count I just posted a question, what type of electronic system I have, before I jump into testing the IAC and so on Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1105433&rss=1 Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:18 GMT OH I forgot when I run mode 2 and three the led just blinks like crazy, it seems to be going through a looped diagnosis, I hear relays going on and off any clue what this means??? Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1105430&rss=1 Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:11 GMT Greetings my service engine light came on 1 question? does it come on at regular intervals ex. every 7,000 km or just when there is a problem I have 248,954 kms it just started coming on today, and turns off a few minutes after I begin driving so I ran the diagnostic and found problem 2- 2- 3 idling control valve absent or faulty I will go through the process of checking the IAC strange as though its running great so it seems to raise the question what type of electronic system do I have??? REX-1, EZK, motronic, bosch, seems like a silly question, I am guessing it is somewhere, thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1105428&rss=1 Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:09 GMT oops I forget about the search, found it http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1103969&rss=1 Fri, 11 Aug 2006 00:23 GMT I was thinking of changing my brake fluid, but after looking at it and comparing to the powersteering fuid it is perfect. My manual makes no mention of changing it, it is so disgusting and I imagine like brake lines, the fluid inside can be a huge source of rusting does anyone have any neat tricks to flush, change powersteering fluid??? thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1103966&rss=1 Fri, 11 Aug 2006 00:20 GMT Randy I could kiss you, but well so we had spark shooting starting fluid did make her run so, I took out tthe relay he fuel pump relay shoot it with some contact cleaner as well as where it seats Bobs your uncle we had warm weather today, the relay was as hot/warm as a cd when you take it out after it's been played so perhaps this was it, too much heat its was over 90 deg is there a way to test the relay????????? or do you know what a new one runs? I can check it out myself tomorrow probably not worth the risk, course next time i call pull it out and seat it again Thanks again you guys are great..... Liam newbie in montreal http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1101125&rss=1 Tue, 1 Aug 2006 23:52 GMT Wow a lifesaver Thanks Randy I am glad that it might no be something huge yes, it turns over great just won't start I will start with the easiest and then proceed my first thoughts fuel pump or that magic brain behind front passenger kickpanel betting it doesn't come cheap I am going out now to try your ideas Thanks a million http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1101117&rss=1 Tue, 1 Aug 2006 22:50 GMT Well, just when I thought was well with my wonderful new (well for me)740 when I was away, my friend was driving it, he said once he went to start it, just wouldn't start, called a wrecker, then it started, that was a few months ago, well it just happened to me, not sure if this is relevent, we had a heck of a rainstorm last night, although I did start and move it earlier today, I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner, on battery posts, negative ground cable to chasis, starter, a few other it did not help, the battery is well charged it just won't start these intermitent problems are a pain, I imagine it will start later, but I want to find the cause, before I try for spark, any ideas, it sounds like it just doesn't have spark, basics, how do I check for gas, or if the fuel pump works, I am old school, cards ok, but high pressure FI not tooo sure I will check, for spark, but even if it satrts to work again, I imagine, I am not the first, to experience this Help Help Help Thanks Thanks Thanks Liam http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1101110&rss=1 Tue, 1 Aug 2006 22:06 GMT Hello all thinking about putting in a K&N filter does anyone have any experience or thoughts to share on this?? Thanks Liam Haniffy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1098978&rss=1 Wed, 26 Jul 2006 03:30 GMT Greetings I have a great 91' 740 with 250,000 kilometers 1 any thoughts on Lucas oil stabilizer, will it do any good? 2 my last muffler the last one in the car, will need to be replaced soon any thoughts any brands to avoid, any great ones? 3 I plan to get the valves adjusted, also debating on the timing belt, @ 250k, I know it wouldn't hurt to have it changed, I bought it with 240k and not sure when it was last changed, the question is, is there any correlation, I think, think and think, but am not surewill one have any effect on the other, can I get the valves done, and then change the belt at a later date???? 4 it is strange, automatic/the tranny seems to have a mind of its own when I drive agressively it changes fairly smooth if I use a soft foot it seems to shift quite rough, is this normal????? is it possible to change shft points at times it shifts smoothly, sometimes it shifts quite roughly thanks so much for any pointers you may have for me http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1098361&rss=1 Mon, 24 Jul 2006 05:46 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/