http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=36903 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:41 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:41 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. 1. I was wrong: there is no visible difference between the 89 and 87 calipers. The difference is between the later ones and some 84 calipers I had around. 2. I had a frozen caliper on the pass side. Frozen = the car had a bad shimmy, wheel was hot, caliper was smoking. I removed the bad caliper and was able to compress all 4 pistons w/ WP pliers. Enough to raise the fluid visibly in the sockets where the lines screw in. I infer from this that the caliper was sticking enough to not retract but it wasn't "frozen" (rusted in place) either. In bleeding the brakes and working the pedal I find a hard spot that sometimes can be pushed through. This makes me wonder if there isn't a master cylinder problem as well. If the new pass-side front caliper sticks I will assume something is sticking in the master and I'll replace that. (I've never seen a master-cyl stick and don't know how it's possible but 3 bad calipers on one side is odd.) -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380640&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 00:51 GMT Thanks. I have swapped the vented w/ non-vented but I no longer buy pre-83 cars and I try to stick to 86-up. They're just drivers and the game is keeping them on the road w/ min cost/ maintenance time. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380547&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 19:10 GMT Yes, I have this problem reasonably often. The good car is parked for the winter, I forget to start it, .... the brakes freeze. I have had luck as you describe freeing rear pistons. Some combo of pushing the pistons out, cleaning, buffing w/ soft steel wool .... But I have to date had 0 success w/ front calipers ie. when they start to stick no amount of work will return them to a normal feel and funcrttion. This 89 is a case in point. One was sticky (wheel vibration, heat, smoke). I removed both, removed the boots, soaked overnight, cleaned, pushed back & forth w/ new brake fluid - c-clamps, welding vice grips, WP pliers, .... felt OK, ..... drove about 20 miles, made it home by letting the pad wear free and not using the brakes. Got used calipers of another car that hadn't been sitting, cleaned, .... drove 1K mile and now those are freezing up. I agree on the poor maintenance. Changing the brake fluid more often and driving the car more would make the dif. But I also think 240s have hi-maintenance calipers. Perhaps that 3-bleeder 4-piston safety-oriented design as little tolerance for dirt, internal moisture, .... and maybe the protective design is weak. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380545&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 19:07 GMT They list the switch separately "1985-1991 Volvo 240 Junction Box Switch". I didn't know about the change to a level-based switch. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380540&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 18:55 GMT That usually works for me. Sometimes on a lift I push up on the pulley. One side is more difficult and I usually find it easier to unbolt the lower mount from the cradle. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380497&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:12 GMT Thank you Bruce and Art. FCP groton lists 1985-87 separate from 1988-91 calipers. They are different in appearance and the brake-pad pins are different. They interchange no problem. I just put a used 1986 set on a 1989 and they failed: were fine for 1K+ miles and then one started sticking badly - I barely made it home. I have a good 87 set I'm going to install today. I think I have swapped in this manner before with no problem - I have some 86-87 parts cars but we drive 89-up cars. I assume the failure was because the calipers were rusty and failed due to heat/ use. I've had a number of sticky calipers in the past. But the failure is usually immediate ie. right after the swap or when I've let a car sit too long. FCP groton lists one master cyl in that range "Brake Master Cylinder_1985-1991(ATE)" and one valve "1985-1991 Volvo 240 Brake Line Junction". -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380496&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:10 GMT Anyone know caliper interchange for later 240s? I think they are grouped - 1985-87 - 1988-91 - 1991-93 non-ABS - 1991-93 ABS But I think you can use 1985-87 (for vented) calipers on all later non-ABS cars - the master cylinders and proportioning valves are the same. The 1985-87 calipers are different in design but will work if you replace both. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380459&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 14:46 GMT I did the same thing a couple of months ago and somehow the ball went outside the center baffle. It took a long time to find it - just trial and error. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375382&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 02:39 GMT Tach I think -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375380&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 02:35 GMT This is just a report on a repair. 1993 245 developed over time a rough idle - bad miss: stalled when started; ran fine - good power, good MPG, smooth. Sometimes stalled hot. Not my car so don't really know course of the deterioration. A friend bought it "needs work" and asked for help. Reminded myself via search here that symptoms are classic air control valve and/ or fuel pressure regulator. So in sequence I did the following (none of which had an effect)- changed/ cleaned: plugs, air control valve, FP regulator*. Then I swapped out wires & cap and voila - ran great. I assume wires were bad (don't know visible tests for good/ bad here) but there was visible evidence of copper corrosion inside the cap terminals and aluminum corrosion at the plug end. It may be that cleaning the terminals would have had the same effect. ---------------- *The FP regulator was not holding pressure and so I thought that might be the problem but it appears not to have been. My 1988 by contrast sat for 3 weeks and had great fuel pressure when I disconnected the regulator. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366804&rss=1 Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:09 GMT I've replaced several hinges and had this a few times. I oil well and use it a while and seems to get better. I assume it's a problem w/ the spring when it stays that way but don't really know -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354865&rss=1 Wed, 17 Jun 2009 17:46 GMT Have had several of these incidents here on the farm: ground hogs, skunks, squirrels, cats. On top of a pickup spare is a popular spot; and the engine bay on 240s. More than once the dog has damaged wiring, brake lines, .... trying to get at it. The skunk-240 incident was fun: took all summer to disperse and was still bad to work under. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353439&rss=1 Wed, 10 Jun 2009 20:47 GMT If you care, put gas in a can and drive until you stop. I've run until the needle pegged but: 1) other cars may be different; 2) fuel pump runsd hotter in air than in fuel. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353437&rss=1 Wed, 10 Jun 2009 20:43 GMT measure is and UPS.COM. Add $8 for oversize -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353435&rss=1 Wed, 10 Jun 2009 20:39 GMT $350 labor to pull the trans, replace rear main seal, re-install trans? Seems cheap relative to what I read here. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352632&rss=1 Sat, 6 Jun 2009 18:03 GMT Did you replace the do-nut gasket? These get hard and won't seal. Best to replace although I've just added silicone and reinstalled. Folks here don't like silicone but I do and I use it on most 240 gaskets. I put the pump back on, nuts and bolts finger tight, pry up against the pulley, tighten. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352607&rss=1 Sat, 6 Jun 2009 15:19 GMT Agree, this is the best approach. I do this at any sign of fraying. Key is to get the splice away from the shifter mechanism as you do. Nice job. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352305&rss=1 Thu, 4 Jun 2009 22:17 GMT If it's irregular and st load it suggests a motor/ trans mount. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351965&rss=1 Wed, 3 Jun 2009 16:30 GMT Some good threads in the archives on this. I just splice and reroute -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351718&rss=1 Tue, 2 Jun 2009 12:57 GMT I know of several of these: My neighbor had the Ford dealer do his Ford tractor when he was out doing something else a couple of years ago .... 1st trip out left it idling - & leaking until it seized; ditto my other neighbor's JD which lost lost all oil under load. Both covered by the dealer but down a long time during planting season. I've done it a few times - once last year on my wife's Dodge - but fortunately caught it when I could feel that it kept tightening well past the normal point. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351529&rss=1 Mon, 1 Jun 2009 13:45 GMT Push the seat back forward, get a good light, take 2 screwdrivers or a prybar or 2, find the pin at the pivot point, push it inward and then pull the seat up (towards the roof of the car). It is a bit fiddly but mostly just takes patience. I thought one of the manuals (Haynes?) had a picture. There's info here int he archives. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350604&rss=1 Tue, 26 May 2009 20:11 GMT 1991 Volvo 240 79k Original Miles-Like New-One Owner - $3995 (Edinburg) Craigslist Akron/ Canton (OH). Not mine and FYI. I know NOTHING else about it -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349778&rss=1 Wed, 20 May 2009 18:51 GMT Some pics of a 240 underneath while up on a lift http://picasaweb.google.com/jon0harcroft I usually have more but this is the only one I'm working on right now. I 2nd Jorrell's concern although I assume your doing it just to do it and don't plan on driving it much. The strength is in the unibody itself so each piece you remove weakens it. If you are building a cage it needs to basically replace the body. A friend's son built a dunebuggy out of some RWD unibody car. He built a ladder-frame out of heavy steel, reinforced here and there, ... and it was still twisty. A couple of months ago I posted pics of a 240 with it's roof crushed by a tree at the driver's A-pillar. I hooked a chain to the A-pillar, lifted into the air with a backhoe, and bounced it up and down. I got it up to maybe 50% of where it should have been. My point of this and the 2 tractors is that the cage is strong and resists bending. If you remove it there's a lot of strength to replace. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349056&rss=1 Sat, 16 May 2009 22:03 GMT I agree. My point was more that it takes a lot to pull 240 metal out straight. Pulling a slack chain taut does more straightening but it's hard on vehicles. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349055&rss=1 Sat, 16 May 2009 21:49 GMT Several threads in archives on this, Check for 12V at the unit; check the unit (clicking doesn't prove it worhs); check the passages in the unit and in the trans. -- 240s: 2 drivers and some parts cars http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349054&rss=1 Sat, 16 May 2009 21:46 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/