http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=36759 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:46 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:46 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Not sure how I feel about mud flaps. My white 1800ES looks great without them. Thought about getting them because it says "Volvo" in a big way. I suspect you want them for looks, not function? Other opinions out there? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1327777&rss=1 Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:46 GMT I agree with Phil. The auxiliary air valve is bolted to the side of the engine, with two thick air hoses going to/from it. It's Volvo's idea of a fast idle valve for when the engine is cold. When cold, it allows air to pass through. It's supposed to close when the engine warms up, letting very little air through it. Perhaps when you gun the engine, it frees it up from sticking. Might try cleaning it out, or plugging the hoses temporarily to see if the idle settles down. Check the hoses for cracks, too, because everything on that side of the engine is hot from the exhaust manifold. You might also check the throttle cable, to be sure it operates smoothly. On the passenger side of the engine, the throttle cable pulls on a metal cam/pulley, which is connected to the throttle position switch inside the black plastic box (about 2 in. by 2 in.) Good luck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1325243&rss=1 Tue, 13 Jan 2009 21:49 GMT George, can the oil pan be removed without pulling the engine? Disconnect motor mounts for extra room = enough? 1800ES Ron http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1324326&rss=1 Fri, 9 Jan 2009 19:33 GMT My 1800ES has the original Volvo dealer/factory add-on unit. Got the parts from Don Thebault in Boston. Has the new rotary Sankyo compressor. Keeps me nice and cool here in Texas, blows plenty of cold air. It does hang under the dash on the passenger side, no getting around that, but the four vents look OK. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1324249&rss=1 Fri, 9 Jan 2009 14:08 GMT Thanks for that extra tip. Question: Can the oil pan be removed with the engine in the car, and the front suspension intact? Put another way, what's involved with removing the oil pan? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1324172&rss=1 Fri, 9 Jan 2009 02:47 GMT Thanks, George. Will check it out. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1323859&rss=1 Wed, 7 Jan 2009 13:05 GMT The gauge is the original. Valve rockers all wet. Any way to clean the oil pressure relief valve? I think the answer is only by removing the pan, right? Where else to check oil pressure? Would the original gauge somehow lose it's accuracy over time? Other ideas, besides just not worrying about it? Ron http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1323686&rss=1 Tue, 6 Jan 2009 15:17 GMT My '73 ES registers oil pressure at about 30 lbs. while at speed. Lower at idle when warm. Light never comes on, but registers low on the gauge. Either 92k miles or 192k miles, no way to know for sure. What's normal? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1323664&rss=1 Tue, 6 Jan 2009 14:11 GMT It was the coolant temp sensor in the front of the head that feeds DJet. Unbelievable that it would cause so much trouble. Connector end of the sensor was cracked. Runs fine now. Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1183121&rss=1 Mon, 14 May 2007 15:57 GMT YOU ARE A GENIUS! Not sure why a simple sensor would cause so much havoc. Anyway, that was it. The plastic connector end of the sensor was loose/broken. New one did the trick. First I had to go through new set of plugs, new timing gear (was time for it anyway, I tell myself), two valve adjustments, and countless checks of fuel pressure and spark. Thanks so much! Genius! Ron http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1182781&rss=1 Sat, 12 May 2007 23:22 GMT Many thanks... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1182017&rss=1 Thu, 10 May 2007 01:14 GMT While we're on the subject, my spring-loaded retractors are too weak to pull the seatbelts all the way in when getting out of them. So they flop around a bit. Can the retractors be adjusted? Re-sprung? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1181974&rss=1 Wed, 9 May 2007 22:20 GMT Out of town for a while. Will check timing first, then go thru the sensors. Arghhhh! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1181314&rss=1 Mon, 7 May 2007 11:24 GMT Will check it out. Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1181268&rss=1 Mon, 7 May 2007 01:50 GMT Thanks...I'll check all of the DJet sending units and readings when I'm not so tired and ticked off....need a fresh set of eyes and a fresh attitude. Ran fine yesterday, today will barely start and won't idle at all....hmmmm? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1181261&rss=1 Mon, 7 May 2007 01:19 GMT Good advice, thanks. Checked most of these already. In my case, I mean it BARELY runs at all. Not just poorly, BARELY. Something failed worse than a marginal wire or plug. And it happened overnight...hmmmm? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1181259&rss=1 Mon, 7 May 2007 01:16 GMT After doing my valve job, my 1800ES ran perfectly (better than ever) for a week. Then, today, I couldn't get out of the driveway. Ran rough, and only after giving full throttle was I able to get back from the end of the driveway. Here's what I checked: 1. Getting spark. Pulled plug wires, and saw spark. 2. Getting fuel. Checked fuel pressure with gauge at the cold start valve. About 28 psi, or as close as my cheap gauge would read. Had not adjusted it, so I don't suspect it. 3. Pulled off the injectors, and took out the trigger points. They sprayed alternately, just like supposed to. Injector seals looked OK. 4. Pulled plugs, they were wet and fouled. Unusual, as they had always burned perfectly, light tan. 5. Checked all electrical connections. No change. Nothing loose. 6. Checked compression. Identical 145-148 in all four cylinders. 7. Checked valve adjustment. Readjusted a few (minor adjustments, probably not necessary). 8. Turned over engine. All valves opening and closing. 9. Tried changing the timing, thinking that perhaps the distributor had somehow moved. No change, except that now I'm sure it's not in perfect timing. Current symptoms: It will run, very roughly, as long as I have throttle wide open. Will not idle. What I suspect: Given that everything else failed to make a difference, I wonder if the fiber timing gear skipped a tooth. It's not been replaced as far as I know A. Can the fiber timing gear skip? B. Would/could I still get perfect compression in all cylinders if off a tooth? C. Would valve job somehow put stress on timing gear? Or just potentially a coincidence. D. How to check the timing gears, besides pulling off the timing cover? E. Other things I should check? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1181220&rss=1 Sun, 6 May 2007 22:49 GMT My tires are 235 45 ZR17. I think that's about all it will take. I also think that the outside diameter of these tires is close to the original 15s the car came with. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1176980&rss=1 Thu, 19 Apr 2007 14:00 GMT My 1800 ES has 17x7 wheels. They do rub just a bit with full wheel lock, but hasn't been a problem. It's a bit hard to turn the wheels when parking, though, but that's probably not an issue. I'm looking to sell my wheels/tires, but 1800ES has a different bolt pattern than yours, I think. I have rear discs, I think you have rear drums. Correct? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1176743&rss=1 Wed, 18 Apr 2007 14:59 GMT Don Thibault in Boston would probably have some... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1175466&rss=1 Fri, 13 Apr 2007 02:33 GMT Colin, I'm sorry that I don't know the answer. I know my 1800ES wheels would fit on 142, as they share parts, axles, etc. IPD would know, or you might get answers from others on this site. Ron http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1175396&rss=1 Thu, 12 Apr 2007 22:46 GMT When I bought the 1800ES, it had the 17-inchers on it. So I have nothing to compare it to, really. But it doesn't seem to dart around at all, follow pavement grooves, etc. Just a bit too noisy for me, and the extra grip is not something I really need driving down the interstate... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1174491&rss=1 Tue, 10 Apr 2007 02:13 GMT Don't have anything to really compare it to, but it feels likes it's a roller skate with that much contact. Shocks are Bilstiens. Everything else stock. No IPD swaybars or anything. I'm trying to switch them out for a set of 16" Superlites with slightly narrower and quieter rubber. These are for the performance types. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1173806&rss=1 Sat, 7 Apr 2007 19:54 GMT I'm new at this. I posted my ad. Now how will I know if someone is interested? Where/how will I receive a message? Thanks for the help... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1173805&rss=1 Sat, 7 Apr 2007 19:47 GMT Not much room to spare, but they fit. Tires are 235-45. Looks really nice, but noisy ride. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1173715&rss=1 Sat, 7 Apr 2007 15:04 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/