http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=36630 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:08 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:08 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387611&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:34 GMT if the gas gauge can be tested similar to the 940 gas gauges using a 68ohm resistor in the sending unit wiring in the trunk or cargo area? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387610&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:28 GMT just call tasca volvo in cranston rhode island and they will get it right the first time 401 681 1310 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387582&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:43 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387564&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:06 GMT i believe i have the volvo green manual wiring diagram for that year and model in pdf format if you like i can upload and give you the link where to get it as to your specific question that info i do not have http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387552&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:58 GMT jim if you have the complete wiring diagram for this model would you be so kind to send me a copy if you have it in digital format to trichard@mass.rr.com thanks ted http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387550&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:54 GMT several things come to mind: 1 failing o2 sensor 2 for the moisture problem replace all really old plug wires 3. if ALL the spark plug wires and coil wire are decent remove them and insert di electric grease between all wires and what they connect to 4. remove and clean all engine grounds and use di electric grease on re connection i think your oxygen sensor is causing the e problems do not forget after you replace the sensor or verify it is absolutely sound to disconnect the neg battery cable for a few minutes and allow all CURRENT running instructions in the ecu to delete. you want the engine to re learn. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387523&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:28 GMT until i replaced the od relay on the relay board a day ago the gas gauge worked perfectly. the od relay was difficult to remove but was changed without i thought breaking anything. now the gas is dead as door nail. ideas? as i suspect it has to do with the relay board. no other area was touched. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387522&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:13 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387478&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 10:02 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387477&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 10:02 GMT considering the fact the last production run of 760's was in 1990 of which i own one of the last i would say a 1994 model is rare bird indeed. the 760 turbo is a fast beast, red block with a turbo. the non turbo is the dohc b230 and is an interference engine. nuff said. the 760 turbo is on the drivetrain end the 940 turbo. on the interior side it is what became known as the 960. the later 760's 89-90 were hybrid cars which were split into 940's and 960's http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387342&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:23 GMT the problem is likely the 'adjustment' to the harness. try re adjusting with the wiper switch on and see if playing with this wiring returns voltage to the motor. if so you have found your trouble. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387220&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:49 GMT get a good strong magnet and dip it into the fluid and see what sticks. if little or nothing good. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387219&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:45 GMT since the gauge works during warm up and then fails the problem is NOT the wiring or the gauge. the only variable left is the sensor. the likely fault is the quality of the connection of the wiring internally in the sensor BEFORE the signal reaches the harness connector. i think you will your problem disappear once you replace thre sensor. i have had this trouble on 940's. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387218&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:43 GMT have a look at your tail shaft and tail shaft bushing at the back of the transmission. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387113&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:40 GMT the best way to solve that problem is to put healthy dab into the plug wire slots with dielectric grease as they mate to the top of the spark plug http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387112&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:38 GMT i do know on red block 230's there is readable casting date on the block on the passenger side just above the oil pan. you might try looking in this area either side for something on yours. on this picture the casting date is just below the oil filter on the rectangular shaped piece. http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti/image/33228457 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387110&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:27 GMT headliners can expensive to replace unless you do it yourself. here is the relevant engine info for your dohc car. Engine name: B234F * 4 cylinders, 4 valves / cylinder * Turbo: no * Fuel type: gasoline, Fuel delivery: Bosch LH-Jetronic pulsed fuel injection * Displacement: 2.316 litres = 141.3 cu. in. * Compression ratio: 10.0 : 1 * Notes: Double overhead cam (DOHC), low friction, tough and durable, interference head so make sure to change the timing belt every 50,000 miles! * Cars that use this engine: (1989 740 GLE) (1990 740 GLE) (1991 940 GLE) (1992 940 GLE) (1993 940 GLE) ............i prefer to stick with single ohc engines turbo or na rather than go with interference motors in models that offer sohc engines. but that's me! this engine car mating is not that common so finding spares in junkyards might prove difficult. and the 940gle's as far i know except for 91 were all canadian cars. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387109&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:21 GMT i use the two longest ones http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1654 and set the rubber on the muffler and then insert the pry bar into either the middle slot or the one that will fit on the frame and stretch it until you get where you want to go. the rubber is very durable. there is no precise method but this tool and creativity will get you close. i find it easier to pry the rubber on to the frame because the frame fitting is stationary no matter what. the idea is have as few moving objects as possible. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386971&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:13 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386880&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 10:16 GMT this jig uses the nut as a stop this jig only works if the bolt is broken off inside the head. i made one if the bolt is broken of outside the head by taking 3 nuts and tack welding them together and then threading the nut onto whats left of the stud. since no real force is applied to the jig for the purpose of centering a drill bit it works well enough for me. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386791&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:10 GMT here is a tip to get the bolt out and never use a torque wrench on anything smaller than 10mm. the little ones break to easily. if you have a drill press or access to one make this tool which will allow you to drill into the center of the dead bolt inside the block. then use a left hand drill bit and it will come right out without drama. <img src='http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/8919.jpg'/> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386764&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 23:10 GMT i will do as you say about draining the trans fluid into a clear or white container. it looks red to me like it does out of the bottle. and there is no particulate or matter of any sort in the fluid. the radiator i had was out of 240 parts car and was volvo new but lacked the thermo hole. i am a member of a long standing (since 1956) hot rod club here in central mass so i have space to work with any sort of the equipment you can imagine from big millers to a large bridgeport. welders several of all kinds, oxy-acet, presses, tire machines, sand blaster and sandblast cabinet/s large and small and great bunch of old and young car enthusiasts although to be fair i am a bit of heretic as most are into muscle detroit iron. but they are good natured about my volvos. some great race cars get built there. i ask about the od only because when the shifter switch is pressed the arrow does not light up. ergo the relay, the switch, the wiring or solenoid is amiss. figured i would swap in a relay as that is the easiest and i have several spare and work my way up the hard scale. great tips on draining the coolant from the engine. i will do them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386753&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 22:41 GMT if the relays are a problem how do you replace the od relay as this one is clearly not working? also do you know what the meaning of the amber tiny light in the middle of the gas gauge is? mine shows when i first start the car and then goes out. the owners manual makes no mention of it nor do they say where the relays are.....odd! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386741&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 22:05 GMT to do the job right you ought to remove the seat and fully xpose the floor. taking out the seat is 10 minutes maybe. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386631&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 11:54 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/